Seeing this problem come up more than once ! ? Does the incindence on the elevator need to be changed a few degrees ? I had another model that the elevator had to be adjusted to stop the nose from going up under power.

Kendall
What does your plane measure LE & TE if you put a streight edge on stablizer ?

Ken

Kendall: how much did you shim it? If I add 1/4, I will get to 0 degrees, course the wing won't lay on the fuse except at front and back unless I build a full length shim. I already made an add-on saddle to fit the uc wing to the flat top of fuse, guess I could go ahead and make a wedge for it. Getting to 0 incidence solved porpoising? where was your cg at that point?

Originally Posted by nubee 1

What does your plane measure LE & TE if you put a streight edge on stablizer ?

Zero. No incidence on the wing--level with the stab.

Originally Posted by springer

Kendall: how much did you shim it?...Getting to 0 incidence solved porpoising? where was your cg at that point?

Keep in mind this was the BBAP1 with the original ~13" cord. The most I tried was 1/4" before cutting the saddle. I dropped the front of the saddle 0.4" to get to zero degrees. The porpoising disappeared after that. Prior to addressing the wing incidence I had tried a CG as far forward as 35% which improved the glide slightly, but didn't really change the porpoising under power. With zero incidence and the CG back at 40% she was golden. I eventually gave up the KFm2 in favor of the KFm3 which flies beautifully on the same zero-degree saddle.

kendall

I am building a 42" BB with the KFm3 wing. Do you think the single thickness 3/16" Protection Board is strong enough for the stabilizer and elevator?

I really like the more square style stabilizer on my 33" Blu-Baby. Would there be any problem using the square stabilizer from the 33" increased by 127% on the 42" Blu-Baby?

I have 1/2 of my KFm3 wing built...looks great and has a lot of stiffness. I am building the left and right wing separately. What is the best way to join the two wings? I had a problem breaking the wings apart on my BB 33" right at the join. I got some thin fabric at Wal-Mart and was thinking of using WPBU and the fabric to make a kind of patch to hold the wings together.

Congratulations Tony on your 100,000th view! A lot of the success of the design is your continued help to the builders of the Blu-Baby.

Ray

I'm not the expert, but I made mine in one piece, then cut down through the foam to the skin underneath in a slight V, set it up n blocks for dihedral, and used a generous amount of gorilla glue in the joint then taped over the glue letting it foam and fill the cavity (tape top and bottom).

Followed up with a skewer at each step, by running the hot glue gun along the cut edge, to create a groove, then hot gluing them into the grooves. Also have a skewer buried in the leading edge folded as Tony has shown. I didn't use a single rectangular section spar, but only have about an inch dihedral. Wing is a little bouncy (is that a technical term?) but plane had been crashed several times in last couple days as I try to tune it, and wing is holding up well. Wish I could say that for the landing gear

Springer
A trick I found with Gorilla glue was when you tape over a joint is to poke holes with #11 blade with a slight twist and the excess will come out leaving a smooth joint. I have repaired wings & not even sanded. Love that GG . I bought some of the new but haven't had a chance to try it out.

Ken

Originally Posted by High Flyin'

I am building a 42" BB with the KFm3 wing. Do you think the single thickness 3/16" Protection Board is strong enough for the stabilizer and elevator?

I really like the more square style stabilizer on my 33" Blu-Baby. Would there be any problem using the square stabilizer from the 33" increased by 127% on the 42" Blu-Baby?

I have 1/2 of my KFm3 wing built...looks great and has a lot of stiffness. I am building the left and right wing separately. What is the best way to join the two wings? I had a problem breaking the wings apart on my BB 33" right at the join. I got some thin fabric at Wal-Mart and was thinking of using WPBU and the fabric to make a kind of patch to hold the wings together.

Congratulations Tony on your 100,000th view! A lot of the success of the design is your continued help to the builders of the Blu-Baby.

Ray

Thanks Ray. The 3/16" PB3 is strong enough if you put a strip of packing tape on the unfinished side. I bond the wings with Gorilla Glue and run a strip of duct tape (preferably Gorilla Tape) down the centerline. Never had one let go yet.

Tony

Tony

Building seasons here again and I'm wanting to make a BB AP plane to hoist my F10 aloft - wondering did you ever take pics of how you set up your wing joiner? I've looked back through the thread here and in the AP section and can't find them. I, and a few others I'm sure, would really appreciate if you could post them here.
Thanks Frank

Ooops. I said I was going to post these before but once again, I forgot. Sorry Frank, work commitments have been tough. At this moment I am on the road and will be back Thursday night. Please remind me on Friday and I promise I will drop everything I'm doing and shoot the pics. Forgive me Frank, I'm an airhead.

Tony

Not a problem Tony - will try to remember!

Nice to meet another airhead....

Cheers Frank

Tony
Did the taxi test on the 40" BB with the EMax without wing. Good grief it's a hoss. Wanted to fly without wing. I can hold it and it will pull up from hand on 3/4 throttle.
OK My question is ? ? Reading your threads I see the wing needs adjustment between the undercamber and the KF. I put the plan for my (48") BB on board and drew several lines. The firewall and elevator are 90 degrees. The wing is 4 degrees differant. High on LE. I'm going to build a KF3 for my 48 with lots of diehedral. Maybe go to 52" no ailerons. Any ideas where wing should be according to elevator ? Now is the time I can adjust as the fuselage is not glued yet. Thanks

Ken

Thinking 2 degrees down on motor and take out 2 on the wing. Thought's ?

I have a pair of snow skis drying in a form to curve the front right now.

Fortunately, I made my landing gear removable when I built my BB with 2" wide fuselage.

Here are some pics and a pdf file with templates.

In a nutshell;

When cutting LG slot in mono-block, cut it very thin. Friction holds LG in fine.
Hot glue plastic slot protector over slot.
Form LG with .062 wire.
I use Hobbyzone wheels (stock # in pdf file).
Use 1/16" wheel collars.

Works great. Worst damage so far, plastic slot protector separated from foam at one side on hard landing. LG remained in place. Re-glued & ready to go again.

Update: Here's a link to my homemade skis. They work great!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=789634

I think I need to build some ice skates the way it's comming down now. When I tested the ski's it was getting slick but now Blades are on order.

Ken

I know you are not supposed to put too much into these foamies, but I love for them to look good. My brother and sister's husband will be quite suprised this year. complete RTF's

Ken

Originally Posted by dz1sfb

I know you are not supposed to put too much into these foamies, but I love for them to look good. My brother and sister's husband will be quite suprised this year. complete RTF's

Ken

Ken.... Those are two great looking BB's congrats on a fine finish job. I love for them to look good too. You've given them great character. Bob