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Old Jan 31, 2013, 03:37 PM
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well, remember- there are 3 different kvs of park 370 (if its a real eflite)
That will effect what prop you want greatly.
Patric
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:32 AM
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United Arab Emirates, Ajmān, Ajman
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It is a real eflite park 370 1200kv motor obtained from an official reseller. The specs refers to 8x3.8 to 10x4.7 SF prop. I guess the lower limit applies to 3S lipo while the higher applies to 2S. I'm not sure actually!

When I tried the 8x4 GWS HD prop the meter showed 11.5 at wide open throttle but with a lot of noise as it was going to torn apart! I didn't find the 9x4 APC prop in the shop so I purchased a nylon fibre one - which I dicovered to be a glow prop. On the watt meter it showed 11 Amp at 80-90% throttle.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:21 AM
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United States, FL, Sunrise
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatricMichigan View Post
well, remember- there are 3 different kvs of park 370 (if its a real eflite)
That will effect what prop you want greatly.
Patric
This is true, mine is a 1080kv.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 07:37 AM
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PatricMichigan's Avatar
United States, MI, Hillsdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andalosy View Post
It is a real eflite park 370 1200kv motor obtained from an official reseller. The specs refers to 8x3.8 to 10x4.7 SF prop. I guess the lower limit applies to 3S lipo while the higher applies to 2S. I'm not sure actually!

When I tried the 8x4 GWS HD prop the meter showed 11.5 at wide open throttle but with a lot of noise as it was going to torn apart! I didn't find the 9x4 APC prop in the shop so I purchased a nylon fibre one - which I dicovered to be a glow prop. On the watt meter it showed 11 Amp at 80-90% throttle.
looking quick like a the specs eflite has, I'd say that 8x4 is about all you want to put on it.
And yea, that range of props usually means just what you thought. Big prop on little battery.. little prop on big battery.

Patric
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 09:20 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
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The specs are here: http://www.e-fliterc.com/powersystem...essCharts.aspx

The Kv's on the three 370 outrunners are 1080, 1200, and 1360, and those are rated at 110W, 120W, and 150W respectively.

If you're going to fly them at continuous full throttle or sustained periods at full throttle you need to static test them that way and choose the props that don't overheat the motors.

And if you don't fly at full throttle except in bursts you can over prop the motors a little and static test to find the throttle setting that you can sustain and the duration limit on full throttle bursts.

Each of us comes fully equipped with two handfuls of digital temperature sensors, we just need to bring them into play and see what the limits are as far as our needs and the way we fly.

Jack
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:44 AM
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Thanks for the answers. I totally new to the rc world and I know my questions seems dummy and annoying. Sorry for that!

I think I need to get 8x3.8 APC SF prop and test to make the final decision.

by the way Jack, Which digital temperature sensor are you using? I don't have one and just depends on my magic finger touch
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:59 AM
Romans 8:34-39
bhoov128's Avatar
United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by andalosy View Post
Thanks for the answers. I totally new to the rc world and I know my questions seems dummy and annoying. Sorry for that!

I think I need to get 8x3.8 APC SF prop and test to make the final decision.

by the way Jack, Which digital temperature sensor are you using? I don't have one and just depends on my magic finger touch
Your questions are dummy and annoying only to people that are rude with superiority complexes, i.e. NOBODY on the scratchbuild forum. Welcome to RC, get your 12-step addiction program lined up, and don't feel bad about any questions you've got.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:31 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
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Originally Posted by andalosy View Post
Thanks for the answers. I totally new to the rc world and I know my questions seems dummy and annoying. Sorry for that!

I think I need to get 8x3.8 APC SF prop and test to make the final decision.

by the way Jack, Which digital temperature sensor are you using? I don't have one and just depends on my magic finger touch
I usually use the index one, the one that Mother told me to keep out of my nose when I was a 2 year old...

Jack
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bhoov128 View Post
Your questions are dummy and annoying only to people that are rude with superiority complexes, i.e. NOBODY on the scratchbuild forum. Welcome to RC, get your 12-step addiction program lined up, and don't feel bad about any questions you've got.
Many thanks for your support. This is a wonderful forum and the secret of its beauty is the people here.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:19 PM
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I usually use the index one, the one that Mother told me to keep out of my nose when I was a 2 year old...

Jack
Didn't think of it I'm going to have one for my testing for sure
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:30 PM
Jack
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Didn't think of it I'm going to have one for my testing for sure
I has been working fine for a number of different purposes for more than 70 years! How's that for reliability.

Of course I have an eLogger with two temp sensors that does better work and seldom forgets anything.

My rule of thumb on motors is that when I cannot keep my finger on the hottest part I can find it is time to back off. The average human cannot keep their finger inn contact with something that is 130F/54C and nothing is damaged yet at that point.

Jack
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 08:09 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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United States, FL, Davenport
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I'm making a cub wing for my Blu Baby. It's the monoblockless kit from Ken's plans. Normally I run a 32" KFm3 wing with full width ailerons, but I wanted to try a new wing. 40" wing span, 6" chord, airfoil shaped by freehand. I'll be down a little bit on wing loading, as the new wing will be a bit heavier and will be just under 240 sq. in, while the old wing was 254 sq. in. 6 foam ribs, 5/16" hardwood dowel in the FFF fold. It'll have ailerons outboard and flaps inboard, let's see how slow I can get her to fly. I'm thinking I'll also have to cut a hatch up front to add some weight due to the shift in NP.

Some pics for you all - if they turn out upside down or something I'm sorry, iPhone pictures seem to act stupid on anything but an Apple product, go figure.:
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 08:09 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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United States, FL, Davenport
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Finished up the blu-cub wing. Flaps, ailerons.... about sixty three pounds of wiring it seems. Stuffed it all up into the front cowling so I'm hoping that helps to balance with CG because I'm sure the CG will have to move forward.

of course it appears iphone picture strikes again, and is upside down. just rotate your head and all will be fine.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 02:41 PM
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United States, PA, Birdsboro
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Hi all, I'm new to this, and I'm trying to build my first plane so I decided to build this plane I have all the electronics so I'm set there I'm going to attempt to build the 32 kmf version but looking at the plans all I can see is the on for the regular wing is there plans for the kmf on.
I'm sorry if this has been posted before.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 03:24 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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Originally Posted by brochj View Post
Hi all, I'm new to this, and I'm trying to build my first plane so I decided to build this plane I have all the electronics so I'm set there I'm going to attempt to build the 32 kmf version but looking at the plans all I can see is the on for the regular wing is there plans for the kmf on.
I'm sorry if this has been posted before.
I built mine with the KFm3 originally. It's on the first post, sixth file listed down with the new rcg format. It's called "Blu Baby 32 inch KFm3 sport wing.pdf"

The only other change you'll have to make, is to make a flat wing saddle for the wing to sit on not the under-cambered one. I did mine by cutting via straightedge from the bottom of the front leading edge dowel-rod relief on the top of the fuse to the bottom of the trailing edge dowel rod relief, which will provide you with the proper wing incidence angle. You'll love the way it flies!
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