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Old Jul 06, 2007, 07:40 PM
stupid wind
R DeMarco's Avatar
Joined May 2007
245 Posts
my motor shed a magnet which is the best way to switch out the motor, I have taken the plane apart but cant get to the motor mount.
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Old Jul 08, 2007, 04:57 PM
What stalls falls
Ta152's Avatar
Joined Jul 2006
1,827 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by R DeMarco
my motor shed a magnet which is the best way to switch out the motor, I have taken the plane apart but cant get to the motor mount.
R DeMarco,

What motor are you replacing the stock motor with?

The old motor is easy to remove. Look at the flange on the back of the stock motor and note two set screws. They hold the motor to the back plate. remove the set screws, one on each side of the flange, and the motor will slip straight out and then you can get to the motor mount screws to remove them.

Larry
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Old Jul 08, 2007, 08:04 PM
Registered User
Marshfield, Wisconsin, United States
Joined Sep 2002
1,561 Posts
;Ooofda nothing but issues witth my motor assembly. I have significant down and right thrust in my mount, enough so its difficult to get the cowling ring on. Does this sound right o nthis bird? If I reverse them ount 180 degrees it seems to even out neutral .
I bought parts, and removed my mount to mount the motor, and maybe not getting the mount oriented back on properly? Im afraid of striiping the mount screws in the fuse , Ive loosened and tightened them so much!
Help and thanks
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Old Jul 08, 2007, 09:16 PM
What stalls falls
Ta152's Avatar
Joined Jul 2006
1,827 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuka
;Ooofda nothing but issues witth my motor assembly. I have significant down and right thrust in my mount, enough so its difficult to get the cowling ring on. Does this sound right o nthis bird? If I reverse them ount 180 degrees it seems to even out neutral .
I bought parts, and removed my mount to mount the motor, and maybe not getting the mount oriented back on properly? Im afraid of striiping the mount screws in the fuse , Ive loosened and tightened them so much!
Help and thanks
stuka,

The motor off set is intentional, it is called down and right thrust. The right thrust helps offset the tork effect from the rotating prop and the down thrust offsets the tendency to climb.
Both are there for a purpose so re-installation should be as it was when it was stock.

Larry
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Old Jul 08, 2007, 09:34 PM
Registered User
Marshfield, Wisconsin, United States
Joined Sep 2002
1,561 Posts
Thanks for answereing Larry. Since my plane was all bought parts, nothing is stock, and when I pulled the mount, I never looked/noticed any offset since there was no motor mounted to give persep[pecitve. Once I mounted the motor it was obvious, but threw me off abit since I having trouble getting the cowl ring to center to the spinner base plate. Or is that asking too much?
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Old Jul 08, 2007, 10:10 PM
Gravity's a harsh Mistress....
southernmd_man's Avatar
United States, MD, Lusby
Joined Jan 2007
2,817 Posts
I'm eyeing this Art-Tech plane, and was wondering, can't really tell from the Hobby-Lobby pics, does the battery have a balancing lead? Also, it'll be a belly lander, the club I belong to fly at a grass field. How will the foam hold up sliding on grass?

I'll admitt, I'm still in the bronze age as far as batteries, using nihm, lipo's seems too touchy, and seen one too many packs puff at the field, and one plane catch fire in flight. But with this plane, PZ 190 begging for more umph, and PZ Spits coming, I want to get the most out of the planes, so lipos seem to be the only answer. I know I'm in need of upgrading my charger, looking at a few all in one chargers. Any hints on lipos would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Pat
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Old Jul 08, 2007, 11:35 PM
Unrepentant Carnivore
jamesdr's Avatar
Brandon, Fl
Joined Mar 2005
2,508 Posts
Pat

The battery has a "non-standard" tap and has a Deans Ultra plug.

Removing the landing gear will alter the CG a bit but since you are hand launching, probably not enough for you to notice. It's all foam so it will show rash from belly landing, particularly on the air scoop under the wing - but you know that. Cover the scoop with packing tape and don't look too close.

Lipos have come a long way in my two years of using them. Cheaper, stronger, more reliable. Most of the black magic has been worked out but you should still heed basic safety precautions. Read the threads, ask questions, and learn at the field. If you are looking for a lipo charger (other than the wall wart that comes with the P-51) I would HIGHLY recommend one that charges through the taps. In a nut shell, each cell it tested, evaluated, and individually charged. Charging through the leads pushes an average current to all the batteries. Most of the time that is perfectly safe but tap chargers are safer and competitively priced. Personally, I have a Common Sense RC digital charger. I don't know if it re branded from others or what is the origins - all I know is that it works and their customer service is excellent.

Good luck!

Jim
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Old Jul 09, 2007, 09:07 AM
Gravity's a harsh Mistress....
southernmd_man's Avatar
United States, MD, Lusby
Joined Jan 2007
2,817 Posts
Thanks Jim, I'm going to need it. I've been looking at an all in one charger, a Triton that will charge everything. The change to lipo's will take awhile, and I can't see having 2 chargers. My current charger's a Super Brain 959, great charger, but it will only charge up to 8 nicad/nihm cells, the 190, and Spits have 9 cell batteries. The Triton does them all, and at only $100 or so, not to bad of a deal.
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Old Jul 09, 2007, 10:03 AM
Registered User
Marshfield, Wisconsin, United States
Joined Sep 2002
1,561 Posts
Ive checked the apparent downthrust on my ;setup at around 3 degrees down and 1 degree right with a angle meter. Thats using the long center panel line for and aft for 0 degrees. The numbers sound right based on way past experience, but the red cowl ring wont match up to the spinner without tipping it so much down that it wont cover the top indent of the fuse, showing bare foam with the original tape showing. Makes me wonder if I have my mount replaced in the wrong orientation. Sigh
Does this sound right?
Thanks
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Last edited by stuka; Jul 09, 2007 at 11:48 AM.
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Old Jul 09, 2007, 10:06 AM
Registered User
Marshfield, Wisconsin, United States
Joined Sep 2002
1,561 Posts
I like my Triton, but I have the original and it can be confusing. Sounds like the less expensive Triton junior has a more user friendly interface. Check it out. For charging multiple batteries at one time(lip only) the GP poly charge is great and works flawlessly. After three years anyway. I use both extensively.
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Old Jul 09, 2007, 10:46 AM
Registered User
Durban South Africa
Joined Sep 2003
188 Posts
Outstanding Maiden

Maidened mine on the weekend.
Flies perfectly, stock alignments and balance etc right on.
Was not too secure about the included radio so put my JR RX and set all rates and throws as suggested in this forum on JR computer TX.
No nasty mustang habits etc.
Take offs and landings a bit tricky as noted.
Installed steerable tail wheel to help ground performance.
Took the shine off the decals and weathered the plane for more realism. Aluminium tube guns.
Looks outstanding on the ground and in the air.
I am installing inexpensive GWS retracts (the blue ones) using stock wheels at the moment to maximise the in air look.
Will canter them slightly more forward than stock to help with tip-overs etc.
Remarkable feat to produce such a scale looking plane with such good flight characteristics at such a low price.
Well done Arttech!
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Old Jul 09, 2007, 04:38 PM
deltas are cool
AIR SALLY's Avatar
Tehachapi ,CA.
Joined Apr 2006
21,257 Posts
Hey guys thanks for all your info on this plane ...one big thing i notice is all the tipping over issue ...if you look at the gear about 1/2 the tire should be in front of the leading edge of wing.so can the legs be bent forward or are they made of plastic? and as to the fellow putting gws retracts in ....i would use the great planes .10 sized retracts .i have a thread on the F-8F bearcat by Thunder tiger and i had to make some alum parts as the plastic parts that hold the gear wire snaped on the second flight . my F8Fhas a four blade prop also and requires a bit of power for landings also .thanks again for all the info here ....these 4bladed prop war birds really do have a sweet look ....we just need to get some more torque in the motors and maybe a bit more pitch...they fly really scale though. good luck to all ...i might have to get one of these.
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Old Jul 09, 2007, 07:19 PM
Unrepentant Carnivore
jamesdr's Avatar
Brandon, Fl
Joined Mar 2005
2,508 Posts
The actual gear is metal with plastic faux wheel covers. It is tippy but not if you take off/land scale like. Rather than force the model to accommodate bad habits, relean and practice the correct way. As it is, with very little effort, she gets right on the mains in a heart beat. It delivers a very rewarding take off and landing, vice a full throttle blast off in 2 feet of runway and flop on the wheels landing.

Practice gentlemen, Practice!

Jim
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Old Jul 10, 2007, 11:33 AM
put the kettle on....
David A's Avatar
Paddock Wood, Kent, England.
Joined Sep 2004
264 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by southernmd_man
I'm eyeing this Art-Tech plane, and was wondering, can't really tell from the Hobby-Lobby pics, does the battery have a balancing lead?

If it's the same 3s 1300mah Li-Po that was my box then the balancer lead is a JST-XH plug - one that's pretty common over here.

David.
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Old Jul 10, 2007, 12:35 PM
deltas are cool
AIR SALLY's Avatar
Tehachapi ,CA.
Joined Apr 2006
21,257 Posts
Jamedr i agree i like to come up on the power slow get the tail flying and then let it roll till it lifts off ...Take off and landing is a big part of the "scale flight" that i like to do . it's just the gear need a bit more caster and that would give the new warbird pilot a chance to learn these skills with out trashing props and spinners. thanks for the info on the stock gear.
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