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Old May 01, 2007, 01:51 PM
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London, UK
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Help!
Mr Gorilla: Can't get this silly plastic piece to stick to balsa!

I need to stick a 3/4 inch long thin section of nyrod to the inner sides of my plywood front fuselage, under the canopy...the purpose of the nyrod is for a small piece of wire to insert and thus hold the canopy down.

I have tried 5 min epoxy and UHU contact cement (with fibreglass) on repeated attempts but it does not seem to hold down. Even after 1 hour of drying time the nyrod piece can be easily slotted out by hand.

What am I doing wrong? Any alternate glues I should be using for plastic on plywood with low contact surface? This is a Paragon 3m glider so weight is not a serious issue...

Is this a job for Mr Gorilla?
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Old May 01, 2007, 02:15 PM
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Goop/Shoe Goo/E6000.
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Old May 01, 2007, 02:29 PM
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I think Shoe-Goo is the same stuff as Evo-Stick, right?

Brown, sticky, contact glue, apply to both surfaces, let dry, press together, hey presto?
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Old May 01, 2007, 02:41 PM
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Nothing bonds with nylon. (Well, nothing you can get in a hardware store or hobby shop) Many adhesives will stick to it as long as they're wet but as soon as it is completely cured the adhesion will fail. You can get a mechanical joint by slicing into the sides of the tube with a razor blade and bending the cut material outward to make hooks that the glue can get a grip on. Then use a big enough blob of your favorite glue to wrap around the tube. See attachment

Another option is to wrap tape around the tube and then glue the tape in place. Tape adhesives don't cure so tape will stay stuck until the adhesive dries out
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Old May 01, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Joined Oct 2002
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I used to sand around the tube with coarse sandpaper to cut it up with "rings" and make it form lots of hairs. It does the same thing as nmaster's knife barbs. He's right, you need that mechanical tooth to hold the nylon tubing in place.
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Old May 01, 2007, 03:22 PM
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rubber type glues see, to work pretty well.

Try a rubber contact, some of the UHU polyurethanes, or hot melt.
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Old May 01, 2007, 06:46 PM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
Joined Feb 2007
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Epoxy riveting

Hello all nice people,

A method I have used in the past that works even with teflon.

Knowng that any glue that I am aware of would not assure a good, solid and permanent join.

I did not glue it. I riveted it.

The parts were too small for any kind of metal rivets.

I used my Dremel and a 1/32 inch drill bit and drilled many little holes spread apart about their own diameter. I did the drilling wile the parts were in their proper location so the little holes would coincide.

15 minute epoxy was applied and forced into all the small holes and forming a layer of epoxy on the outer surfaces.

VOILA epoxy riveting.

Might work for you. You be the judge and good luck.

Regards de Zor
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Last edited by Zor; May 01, 2007 at 06:50 PM. Reason: My loosy typing as usual
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Old May 01, 2007, 06:46 PM
slow but inefficient
Ron Williams's Avatar
Riverhead NY USA
Joined Dec 2000
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Clean the tubing with alcohol or another solvent before trying to glue it; it often has release agent on it that prevents the glue from adhering. The advice above should also be used.
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Old May 01, 2007, 08:11 PM
B72
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Slip a piece of heat shrink over it and then use goop or something similar
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Old May 01, 2007, 09:35 PM
slow but inefficient
Ron Williams's Avatar
Riverhead NY USA
Joined Dec 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B72
Slip a piece of heat shrink over it and then use goop or something similar
That's a great idea. CA sticks well to most shrink tubing.
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Old May 07, 2007, 05:57 AM
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London, UK
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used nmaster's suggestion of side cuts...followed this with a small amount of gorilla glue after wetting the plywood...worked 1st time

i can use the gorilla glue for other repairs around the house. recommended but as all users will suggest...use 1/3 what you think you will need this stuff magically expands before your eyes
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Old May 07, 2007, 07:17 AM
slow but inefficient
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Riverhead NY USA
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Store the Gorilla Glue (bottle) upside down or say bye bye in a month or so. I keep mine in a jar big enough to hold the bottle upside down within it and it lasts much longer.
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Old May 07, 2007, 08:49 AM
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Yeah, that happened to the second half of my first bottle. it looked fine but when I tried to squeeze it it was as hard as a rock. The foamed polyurethane doesn't stand up to vibration though. Should be fine for a canopy hold-down but if this is a fuel ship you should keep an eye on it if it's close to the firewall. Yellow dust in the cockpit would be an indication that it will fail eventually
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Old May 07, 2007, 09:35 AM
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Again, try the shoo-goo, E-6000, Goop route. It stays flexible for decades even if left in the sun, sticks to things like nyrods, and its the hot setup for stuff like this. Guys in the UK can find it in plumbing supply places under the Ecclectic-6000 brand name.
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Old May 07, 2007, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Williams
Store the Gorilla Glue (bottle) upside down or say bye bye in a month or so. I keep mine in a jar big enough to hold the bottle upside down within it and it lasts much longer.
Even doing that, mine used to harden. Then I read a post here ( sorry I forget who posted it) about using Silica gel in a closed jar to extend the shelf life of CA. I never had a problem w/ CA hardening, but tried it with the Gorilla Glue. Been using this storage method for about 6months now, and even upright the stuff is still runny was new (yea, runny is stretch).

For yet anther way..... When I need to fasten nyrod to something I make clamps out of balsa. I forget the dimensions, but I will route a strip in a small piece of balsa. The ripped notch is as wide and deep as the nyrod is round. Size of balsa strip is about 2 to 3 times as wide as the nyrod, and a little thicker. I usually make then an inch or so long, by ripping a longer piece and cutting it up. Just use that piece (those pieces) as a custom made clamp using any glue you normally would when gluing balsa to ply. I have yet to have fail like this.
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