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Old May 13, 2007, 11:47 AM
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Marysville, CA
Joined Jul 2006
57 Posts
Here are some pictures of the hardware. I am happy with the way everything is turning out. Please excuse the bondo mess--that is still in the works; everything will be smoothed out momentarily...

Once I get the bondo cleaned up I'm going to prime the plastic underside to ensure everything is nice and smooth. It will also be about time to put down some stain. I do not have the resources or facilities to spray the "automotive" type paints so I am using the ole' spray can variety. I bought Tamiya surface primer and paint for below the water line. I have never used the Tamiya spay paints, so lots of first for this build.

I have a question regarding the drive dog. Is the "tooth" supposed to fill the gap in the prop; or is the noticeable space normal? I'm not too familiar with the whole drive dog setup.

On a side note, I do believe the Mack hardware is slightly overkill. I image the stock hardware would work great, but I was bitten by the bug and had to get the Mack. I'm glad I did, as I assume I will have no problems what so ever with the drive train, but I am certain the standard hardware is up to the task as well. I guess I am the type not to leave well enough alone!
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Old May 13, 2007, 05:40 PM
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Marysville, CA
Joined Jul 2006
57 Posts
Okay, so I finished up the skeg and laid down some primer (just on the very bottom; not up to the water line) so I could see if any other major filler is needed anywhere before I stain the wood.

All looks good--I must say I think the skeg turned out beautifully! I am, however, disappointed at the scratches that are visible with the primer. The bottom is still in need of some sanding to obtain a smooth, even bottom. But I figure some primer and sanding will take care of that. I am ready to lay down some stain! Unfortunately I need to bust out the wood filler again because when I pulled the masking tape off the sides, small amounts of the wood filler were pulled out of the boat, leaving the gaps behind--ugh, bummer; thought I was done with that filler!

I need to get the Epoxy and fiberglass on order so I can get that going. I should have ordered it last week, but it will get here soon enough I suppose.
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Old May 13, 2007, 06:09 PM
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Joined Nov 2005
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ideally yes you would want a better fit tween drive dog and prop...however given variations in manufacturing (not to mention prop sizes) one has to be happy if the dog fits the prop at all(I've got a couple where I had to file the dog down to fit). once you've got the prop nut snugged down it shouldn't make a lot of difference, if it worries you, go easy on going from forward to reverse .
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Old May 13, 2007, 06:56 PM
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Joined Apr 2006
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Your build is going really well and your making great time. I really like your rudder I think it was a good idea, my runabout turns wide and I wish my rudder was larger.
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Old May 13, 2007, 07:06 PM
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Toronto, Ontario
Joined Jul 2002
397 Posts
Looks really great! The prop looks means just sitting there - a totally different ball game from the plastic one provided. What is the diameter and pitch of it?

Mine is still in the box - Im still debating if I am going to update the drive train.
How much $$$ do you think it took you in total to upgrade everything. I see these boats lasting a long time and want to make sure the drive train lasts as well.

Keep the pictures and build coming!

Cheers,
Dave
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Old May 13, 2007, 07:24 PM
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Marysville, CA
Joined Jul 2006
57 Posts
Dave--these are the items from Mack: Rudder stuffing box ($6.00), Rudder (9.00), Tiller arm (6.00), Stainless Shaft (4.25), Stuffing box (9.50), Drive dog (3.00), and Prop nut (4.00); a total of $41.75. You can add 9.00 shipping also.

The Speed 600 and Prop came from offshoreelectrics. The Prop is an Octura X432, 1.25" diameter and 1.76 pitch. I bit the bullet and paid the extra for a sharpened and balanced prop--I will try my hand at this at a later date.

Again, I have no idea how this motor and prop combo will perform; basically just picked what seemed to sound right with the help of others on RCGroups. I hope to have this boat in the water before mid June. If not, it will have to wait until November!! (going out of country for a bit)

Thanks for the kind words and good luck on your build!
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Old May 13, 2007, 08:35 PM
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Monterey Bay California
Joined Feb 2004
14,040 Posts
Like Kmot says, this thing is going to haul A$$!!! I don't think you will have may problems with it being twitchy though... these are pretty honest boats that shouldn't bite, even if hopped up a bit! you are going to like it, I'm sure!

On that note though, work up to high speed turns though, you don't want your first turn to be full throttle, full speed, full rudder deflection! you'll want to feel it out first!
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Old May 13, 2007, 10:00 PM
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Marysville, CA
Joined Jul 2006
57 Posts
Some pics after the stain application. The deck is the supplied stain and the side boards and sides are Minwax Red Mahogany. I was afraid that the minwax would be too dark, but I think it looks pretty good.

Question--what is the best way to obtain a crisp water line and boot topping? I plan on painting from the water line down Tamiya Mica Red and will have the traditional white boot topping.

Also, since I am limited to the spray can paints does anyone know of a good clear coat that can be sanded/polished like the automotive ones? Or does something like that not exist? If not, is there another route in finishing once the final coat of resin is sanded? Trying to plan out the last steps on the finish. As always, thanks for looking!
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Old May 13, 2007, 10:10 PM
Grumpa Tom
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
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Geez! That looks awesome!
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Old May 14, 2007, 01:20 AM
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Monterey Bay California
Joined Feb 2004
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That sure does look awesome!

For clear, I like to use varnish, brushed on these boats myself... re waterline, back mask with a high quality masking tape... fine line tape produces the best results in my opinion... after that, the boot top stripe can be done with automotive pin stripe tape... very quick and sharp!

If you do use the pinstripe tape, try not to pull/tension it as you apply it... it does tend to shrink after a while and may eventually leave a small gap at the rear "fender" and cut water at the bow if not gently laid down...
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Old May 14, 2007, 08:54 PM
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Toronto, Ontario
Joined Jul 2002
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Looking real nice! Very Motivational!

Did you have any problem with the stain, staining thew white cauking plastic?

Thanks for the break down of the parts you ordered. Not to bad a price for high quality upgrade.

Keep the pics coming.

As for finish, if you saw Pat T's thread, he buffed up epoxy to a shine and it looks great.

Cheers,
Dave
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Old May 14, 2007, 11:27 PM
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Central Missouri,USA Along the banks of the Missouri River
Joined Jun 2005
1,734 Posts
mcfly1883, very entertaining build with very nice pics/descriptions.I was thinking of your bow light problem and was wondering if you have looked at the lights on the Mack website? These are very nice and might work for your application.This would save you the trouble of replating.Just a thought.Also, I use 7.2v 3300mah, NiHd batteries in my barrelback with similar motor and it HAULS.With a good charger,Im now getting 25+min. runtimes.Have fun.
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Old May 15, 2007, 12:37 PM
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Toronto, Ontario
Joined Jul 2002
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I also saw they have a mast light too - you could add a complete lighting system.

They also have a machined aluminum exhaust port and gas tank at very reasonable prices.

cheers,
Dave
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Old May 15, 2007, 01:26 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Southern Calif
Joined Dec 2005
1,814 Posts
mcfly, Tim mentioned Mack products for a bow light, I ordered one from him and it had grinding marks in it. I called him about getting it replaced, and he told me he gets them from Dumas. But all the other parts he makes is very good quality.

Ed
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Old May 15, 2007, 07:32 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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Motor City
Joined Dec 2004
12,429 Posts
Harumph! #2

Just started looking at the Dumas fittings... oh boy, won't be as easy as I hoped!

Vents- Vaguely similar to the real things. Originals are much flatter, and hollow of course. Oddly, my kit has three different vents. Four have same external shape, but two of those are slightly hollowed out, and two are solid. The fifth has a completely different shape. Photos and Dumas plans show 5 all the same. Harumph.

Hatch handles- One is a non-fill, neither represent the nice swoopy 1:1 handles.

Gas fill fitting- should have crenulated cap. I know that Jack Kipfer does that by hand! I'll have to give it a try...

Has anyone tried MACK's cast struts? They look good. I went cheap and silver-soldered a piece of brass strap onto a tube, and inserted Oilite bearings.

Pat M
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