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Old May 23, 2007, 09:28 PM
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Patmat, I'm speechless........amazing dash. Ever thought of making some of those for sale?I have a runabout with BLUE stickers as gauges!! For petes sake!
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Old May 23, 2007, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim slocum
Ever thought of making some of those for sale?I have a runabout with BLUE stickers as gauges!! For petes sake!
Sure! I'll make 'em for anyone. Let's see, I'll do the work for only $60/hr... oh, and I work real slow...

Pat M
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Old May 23, 2007, 09:56 PM
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Oh no you don't,remember,I've watched your build threads!!If you can put out an entire museum quality tugboat in a couple of months you could make some dash guages in no time! Just joking Patmat!!These are the details that set certain models apart from others.
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Old May 23, 2007, 10:06 PM
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Very nice, Pat! :-) I like your suggestion too, Kmot!
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Old May 24, 2007, 05:42 PM
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Finishing

I just got off the phone with the West Systems tech expert, asked him about what to do with all these bubbles (even thinned, I get surface bubbles which I keep popping all during the cure).
He said that these epoxies really aren't formulated for a final coat, even though some do use them that way. Mostly, folks use a varnish over the epoxy.
BTW, he said thinning epoxy with lacquer thinner is ok, but preferably not for the bottom coats- lose too much water resistance. But again, not likely a big issue for a model boat. I noticed that thinned epoxy needs at least a couple days to cure to where it doesn't clog sand paper.

BTW #2, I originally bought some Dupont Nason clear for this purpose, the 2-part stuff. THEN I read the safety notes- iso-cyanates! They want you in full protective gear with positive pressure breathing apparatus (not just a face mask with carbon filters)- this stuff is BAD! I couldn't recommend this to anyone who isn't a qualified pro, and I'm not one...Anyone interested in my unopened quart kit?.

Alright, I go to Home Depot to see what they have. All Minwax brand stuff- Lacquer, water based poly, regular poly-u, and spar varnish, all in sprays and cans, with various recoat times and dry-to-sand times. None say anything about suitability for finish sanding/polishing.
I don't think I want lacquer on a boat that gets wet, likewise the water based poly (though it says water resistant). The spar varnish should be the most durable, but not really necessary for a model which spends most of the time on a shelf (even though I think it was Aero who said spar varnish has more of a "glow" than the crystal clear poly). So I chose the spray polyurethane- recoat within 2 hours, sounds like it needs 3 days for sandability, oy. Well, long weekend coming up!

Pat M
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Old May 24, 2007, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patmat2350
I
I don't think I want lacquer on a boat that gets wet....
Pat M
Why not?
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Old May 24, 2007, 06:34 PM
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Says "indoor use only"... don't know if it's water, UV, or what that it doesn't like, but it doesn't sound like the toughest stuff around... though maybe it's just fine for ocasional immersion? Sure looks like it's faster to cure!

Pat
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Old May 24, 2007, 07:37 PM
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Lacquer is what I mostly use for color! I have not noticed any problems with it... yet... in the RC boat environment! Much faster to use than enamel when you are going for multi coats and doing lots of color changes! :-)
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Old May 24, 2007, 08:03 PM
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Well, D Anderson suggested I look at my West Systems hardener... he likes the 207, which is suggested for clear coating. I've been using the standard 205... and on the West site, they say "not intended for clear coating"! Doh!

PM
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Old May 24, 2007, 08:21 PM
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207 is a great alternative though 205 might be better for 'all purposes' (those small cans go a long, long way in model boat building!)

I believe you are OK with the 205 if you varnish or otherwise clear coat it with something containing UV protection...

Varnish has very good UV protection qualities... Urethane is also very good

Left out in sunlight without protection, epoxy will break down, lose clairity etc... (excluding 207 which is made for this!)

In our model boats though I don't think we need to worry...
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Old May 24, 2007, 08:27 PM
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The hardener I am using is the 206 with no problems at all--except for the occassional piece of dirt or small bubble (just not groups of bubbles). I sanded everything with 320 wet and decided to put one more coat of epoxy on it (hopefully last coat) Here are some pics of it baking in my truck.

I used 2" foam brushes--they like to expand, so half way through I grabbed a new one. Lays it down pretty smooth.

Still haven't decided on the clear coat. Once I get it wet sanded again, I'll start the color work for the bottom--sanding, a little more filling, primer, and more sanding; then color! I'm thinking of the spray spar urethane, just wondering how well it does with color sanding and buffing?...
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Old May 24, 2007, 08:34 PM
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You've got something there you should really be proud of, Mcfly! Looking great!!!

I'm not sure how spray poly takes buffing etc... might try it on scrap first?
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Old May 24, 2007, 08:42 PM
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Nice!
I'm not showing mine anymore (least not till I smooth out all those bubbles!)
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Old May 24, 2007, 09:18 PM
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Thanks! After looking at it, I don't really want to sand it--might mess it up! I will definitely have to test what clear coat I get. I know I could polish up the epoxy, but I am wondering how the colored bottom and decals will hold up without clear??

Too much to consider!

*edit: after reading the above post, epoxy will break down in UV over time, so I will definitely clear with something....just don't want to sand it until I know it is going to work!
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Old May 24, 2007, 10:40 PM
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I think clear is a good idea ... Re: the decals, the decals Dumas provides are very tough so even on their own, they won't be a problem... what are you using for bottom paint?
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