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Old Apr 02, 2007, 05:23 PM
Make 'n Break!!
roosevelt's Avatar
Walled 'tucky, MI. USA
Joined Apr 2006
1,766 Posts
Never had a problem adding too little glue. For me if anything I add too much.
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Old Apr 02, 2007, 09:09 PM
Just checking gravity...
crazy pilot's Avatar
Farmington, MI, USA
Joined Jun 2005
462 Posts
Hey Abrams! Where do you live? I notice we should be close by each other, where do you usually fly?

Good luck on your built, looks great!
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Old Apr 02, 2007, 11:03 PM
Registered User
Farmington Hills, MI
Joined Jul 2006
306 Posts
I'm glad I'm not the only one that had the glue issue. On my next build, I'm going to put in a weep hole. That might not much sense until I explain it. The weep hole goes along with another idea I've been kicking around to get the motor mount plate in perfectly straight. I'll take some pics when I get there.

More to come. I can only do so much at a time. My work schedule and everthing else has been crazy.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 12:09 AM
resU deretsigeR
PaulVi's Avatar
Dublin Ca
Joined Aug 2004
7,787 Posts
I like the idea of a weep hole.


What i do to make my life simpler is to use the wiltons cake paper it is the paper that they use to make the paper funnels for decorating cakes.

It is siloconized and almost nothing sticks to it i put a wing bed down a layer of the paper the wing itself then another layer then the top wing bed and put wieght on it till it tries..

I get almost no exspantion over the wing surfaces but i notice the glue wicks into the wing farther..

pluse i know my wing is as stright as it can be while it is curing
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 07:35 AM
Uniblab
rwmson's Avatar
Cherry Hill, NJ
Joined Oct 2004
877 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrams
I guess the best way to start is a look over the kit.
My TL50 came with what seems to be a second spar hole near the trailing edge. I see yours doesn't have that. The kit came with only 3 spars, so I'm assuming that I should ignore the extra holes?

The thought of adding another spar behind the CG bothers me, but leaving the hole vacant also bothers me. Being bothered bothers me too.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 09:00 AM
Mum is the word!
Joined Jun 2003
6,791 Posts
One is for lite build and one is for heavy build and gives extra room ,depending on you bats and weight you are installing.
ck
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwmson
My TL50 came with what seems to be a second spar hole near the trailing edge. I see yours doesn't have that. The kit came with only 3 spars, so I'm assuming that I should ignore the extra holes?

The thought of adding another spar behind the CG bothers me, but leaving the hole vacant also bothers me. Being bothered bothers me too.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 04:15 PM
aka WarpedWingNut
USA, MI, Caledonia
Joined Dec 2004
297 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrams
On my next build, I'm going to put in a weep hole.
Excellent idea !! I think I'll use that on my next build.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 07:31 PM
Registered User
Farmington Hills, MI
Joined Jul 2006
306 Posts
I'm still kind of bummed that I've wasted time and money by making the mistake that I did, but the only way you learn is by doing. With all of the tips I'm going to get here on top of what I've learned, my second build should be pretty solid.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 07:53 PM
Purples a fruit
punkrockd's Avatar
United States, CA, Walnut Creek
Joined Aug 2006
1,283 Posts
shet happens.

you'll be GOLDEN.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 08:40 PM
Make 'n Break!!
roosevelt's Avatar
Walled 'tucky, MI. USA
Joined Apr 2006
1,766 Posts
With all the money I've now spent on this hobby I figure if I learn a lesson from each mistake it's worth it. If I don't learn a lesson it just plain sucks.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 09:05 PM
Registered User
Farmington Hills, MI
Joined Jul 2006
306 Posts
Step 2 - Spar Slots

The spar slots are pretty easy. The video does a good job. I used a 4" dry wall screw, so that only about half of the shank was threaded. I broke off the threaded part and insert the rest into a 30 watt soldering iron. CK got his at Harbor Freight cheaper than mine. I paid $6 at Aco hardware. Aco is a lot like Ace, same color scheme, different company.

The only thing I had trouble with was getting the iron too hot. If you let it sit too long, it almost melts the foam before the screw hits it. I bought the aluminun rule from Home Depot, cheap. Run the screw right against the ruler. I like aluminum because it desipates heat fast. It helps keep the top of the slot narrow to hold the spar it. I did a little practice run on a piece of foam free handed. The iron was too hot and I didn't use the ruler. The slot cross section turned out almost square and WAY too wide. I tried a one inch screw with a smaller head with the ruler and the slot turned out too narrow but the section looked great. I went back to the big screw and used the ruler. With a little adjustment for depth it turned out perfect. It's not perfectly symetric, but it worked great.
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Old Apr 04, 2007, 05:59 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
I have a trick I like to use. After marking the batt bay, I draw another box around it, 1/4" larger on all sides. This is the shelf where the coro lid will sit.

Before melting out the bay I run my router/dremel set a 2mm depth, 1/4" around the bay. After that I will melt out the bay.

I find it easier to do this before the bay is cut then after. If you do it after your dremel is always tetering on the edge and the cut can be to deep.

I also don't like to melt out the shelf as it would take a steady hand and a sharp eye to do this with precision.

I am extremly picky so this helps make my build cleaner.
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Old Apr 04, 2007, 09:35 PM
Registered User
Farmington Hills, MI
Joined Jul 2006
306 Posts
Excellent tip on the dremel. I used an interest method to do this, but it's not as good as yours.

As for the spar slot, I really like CK's method, but I wouldn't attempt it if I were not running to soldering iron right against the aluminum rule.

How do you cut the spar? Do you have a method that allows the spar to snap into the slot?
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Old Apr 05, 2007, 12:46 AM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
I burn em' in like CK,

I use a crappy Ratshack 25w soldering iron with a socket cap screw that I customized. I grinded it till it was round. I then run it against a 1/8" thick by 1" flat aluminum stock from the hardware store. The spar snaps in and is level with the the wing plane.

I use this same soldering bit and technique to make the slots for the golden rod as well. Only thing I do different is use a scrap of golden rod under the strait edge at the trailing edge as a spacer. This way it'll taper off towards the end of the cut. Get my drift?

Adam
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Old Apr 05, 2007, 10:13 PM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Jun 2005
4,140 Posts
More tips.

#1
Get some 1/16" x 3/4" x 3' aluminum stock from the hardware store. Use this as a flexible strait edge! I have mine bent to the shape of the airfoil. It works in either axis. I use this to mark my bays, and make marks where a solid strait edge makes it difficult.

#2
After the coro lid is glued in place it can become difficult to find the center/root of the wing. What I do is take my trusty flexy strait edge and lay it tip to trailing edge on the exposed centerline where the cores are joined. Take a ballpoint pen and make a mark all the way down the center, from the tip, across the coro, and to the motor. Now you have an easily visible centerline to mark out your servos and golden rod.

#3 IF YOU RUN A 7" PROP ON THE 50
Before cutting your servo holes, make sure you keep in mind where the linkage will attach to the elevon. If you run a larger prop on the TL50 your prop cutout will be larger. You'll have to move the servos out towards the tip about an inch more then usual. Basically what I am saying is you don't want the control horn sitting on the very inside edge of the elevon.

#4
When it come time to install the golden rod. sink your servos into the cutouts. Measure from the root to the center of the servo horn. Go to the trailng edge and make a mark at the TE the exact same dimension. Use your trusty flexy strait edge to draw a strait line from mark to mark. You will follow the center of this mark when your cutting the slot for the golden rod.( I use the same soldering iron for the golden rod as I do the spars. Just use whatever method you are comfortable with.)

#5
Always be sure to cut your golden rod down to size before you glue them in! It can be a real pain to cut them after the fact! Things can get ugly! The Goldenrod should end anywhere from 1.5-3" from the point it crosses the TE. In the video CK says 3" but I know he goes as little as 1.5" from the TE. I guess it would all depend on what your after, if you wan't huge throws you would prolly wan't more room. But with your average recommended setup 40 or 50"wing I set mine at 1.5-2" from the TE.


More to come!
Adam
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