Tom,

If you are really concerned about the lack of color differentiation, just slip an extra bit of colored shrink tube on each lead. I do that to differentiate "hot wind" motors [Red] from "cool wind" motors [Blue] when I get a series of test motors which are otherwise not labeled! [Even yellow for the middle one if I get three!].

Lucien,
The more I read your replies about the specifics of your motors, it really let's me know I made a good choice in the 2215-18. Now I just can't wait for it to show up. I need to fly.

Jordan

Originally Posted by Innov8tive

Tom,

I have had others ask the same questions, so here are the answers again.

The reason tht the lead wires look the way that they do is because the wires that come out of the motor are the actual wires that the stator is wound with. Many motor manufacturers will terminate the stator windings inside the motor, and then run lead wires out of the motor that are covered with thick silicone insulation. This can cause a failure point right where the lead wires solder onto the motor windings, and if it breaks here, it is usually a big pain to fix. By using the actual stator lead wires, the Scorpion motors eliminate this failure point, and you end up with a more reliable motor.

The reason that they look thin is because they are covered with thin heatshrink tubing instead of the thicker silicone insulation used on other motors.

Lucien

To share some other views... Eliminating the solder connection does eliminate a possible failure point. But the leads soldered on to other motors are often stranded wire, so they are less susceptible to bending fatique and breakage from vibration, with thicker insulation for better crash survivability, etc. It's trading one failure mode for a different one.. I've damaged motor wire leads in crashes, so that is my biggest concern.

Originally Posted by Innov8tive

If you do put different colors on the motor, then people will think you "Wired the Motor Backwards" if they match up colors and the motor does not spin the right way. In the end, to eliminate the confusion, Scorpion chose to use all black heatshrink.

Lucien

Yes, I fully understand the motor rotation issue, and if the wires are colored, I make note of which color motor wire is connected to which color ESC wire, so when I have to disconnect them for any reason, I can easily restore proper rotation without having to re-test it. If at least two of the motor wire colors match the ESC wire colors, I connect those, and if the motor runs backwards, I'll reverse direction in the ESC so the color matching always works once the plane is initially set up. I had already put some colored shrink tubing on the motor connectors (as Dr. Kiwi mentioned) to resolve this... just stating that's an extra step that would be unnecessary if the wires or the heatshrink on the bullets were colored.

Well... guess what just showed up!
Got to run to work, but have two questions.
I can't get the prop adapter to sit tight on the shaft to tighten down the prop nut, any ideas?
Next question later, something about programming. I'll search first.

Originally Posted by Backwing

Well... guess what just showed up!
Got to run to work, but have two questions.
I can't get the prop adapter to sit tight on the shaft to tighten down the prop nut, any ideas?
Next question later, something about programming. I'll search first.

If your prop can slide freely back to contact the collet, push it tight against it, and then tighten the nut hand-tight against the front washer and prop. You should then be able to just hold the prop blade and continue tightening with a wrench. Works for me.

Tom,

I will talk to the owner of Scorpion products and let him know your concerns. Perhaps on future productions runs, Red, Yellow and Black heatshrink can be used on the motors.

Lucien

Originally Posted by LBMiller5

Tom,

I will talk to the owner of Scorpion products and let him know your concerns. Perhaps on future productions runs, Red, Yellow and Black heatshrink can be used on the motors.

Lucien

That's all it would take!

O.K. Just want to get this straight on plugging in to program.

Plug battery into ESC, plug ESC into card at "ESC Connection", then from "Aux. Battery Connection" to receiver with a servo lead?

Then program throttle as described on page 1.

In that order, or not?

Sorry, but these electrics are new to me. Thanks.

Backwing,

To program the ESC, follow these steps.

1. Hook up a motor to the ESC output leads.

2. Hook the programming card to the receiver lead on the ESC. Use the plug closest to the DIP switches with the brown wire towards the edge of the board closest to the DIP switches.

3. Set the DIP switches to the proper positions as outlined on the programming instruction sheet that came with the controller.

4. Plug a flight battery into the input leads of the ESC. You do not need to use the auxillary battery connection for the current model Scorpion ESC's. That is there for future Opto-Coupled ESC's that do not have an on-board voltage regulator.

5. After the battery is plugged in, the motor will beep 3 times to let you know that you are in the programming mode.

6. Push switch SW2 down for a second. The red LED will blink and then the motor will give a single "Beep".

7. Push switch SW4 down for a second. The red LED will blink again, and then the motor will give a single "Boop". This completes the programming of the ESC. Pretty easy!

8. Unplug the Flight battery from the ESC.

9. Unplug the programming card from the ESC.

10. Plug the receiver lead from the ESC back into your throttle channel on your receiver.

11. Hook up the battery and you are ready to fly.


That is pretty much it as far as the programming goes.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Lucien

Couple of questions.

I am looking for some high current controllers for hotlining and 7cell glider so the 110 comes immediately to mind as a "handy" controller.

First: Any testing in regards to operation with 36/35Mhz - Seems these frequencies are a little more susceptable to controller noise than say 72Mhz (CC controllers as an example)

Second: Are you planning to introduce some optically isolated controllers?

and lastly - for the 110, 110A is the noted continuous capacity - any thoughts in regards to what they can handle burst wise (say 5-10 secs). - although I understand if you may not want to comment publically in this regard.

cheers, Shawn

Shawn,

The controllers are tested overseas using 35MHz and 40MHz radios, and as far as I know, there have been no reports of any glitching problems.

Scorpion is working on a series of ESC's with built-in switching regulators for higher cell count operation. The sizes will run from 25 amp up to 110 for now. The 25 and 35 amp models will have a 3 Amp Switching BEC, and the 45 amp through 110 amp sizes will have a 5 amp switching BEC.

Once these are introduced, Scopion has mentioned producing a series of Opto-Coupled ESC's in the higher higher current ratings.

The Over-Current protection on the ESC's is set to go off if there is a 20% overload for more than about 8-10 seconds. When this happens, the ESC throttles back to 50% power to keep you from burning up the FET's. So in short bursts, the 110 amp unit would be OK for about 132 amps for 10 seconds. Any longer than that, and it will current limit, unless of course you have turned off the current limit feature with the programming module, in which case you could burn it up.

Hopefully that answers your questions.

Lucien

Thanks for the feedback Lucien, answered my questions exactly

From what you are telling me these look like they will do what I want. 110amps certainly isn't high for some guys, but thats the area I generally dabble in - upto around 120amps from 2-4S setups.

I think I will get one ot two and try them out.

cheers, Shawn

Lucien,
I see you now have the 30mm series motor on your website. What kind of DIY motor parts are you planning on taking to Toledo? I am looking for magnets for some 35mm and 50mm 3 phase motors from laser printers I want to re-build.

Originally Posted by king160woody

New And Improved Video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GVnpPFQgC_s


2215-18 It rocks the airfoilz planes! I have about 30 flights of hard abuse on this motor and still runs like it came out of the box. So far im very impressed! Keep up the good work!

Woody

Kingwoody, great video, I have the Yak and haven't decided on the power for it yet. Your flight seemed to be of high speed most of the time where my style is slow 3D, hovering, harrier type stuff. How does the combination you use work within these flight descriptions?

WOW! I've got the 2215-18 on my Airfoilz Yak. Right now I've got an 11x4.7 APC on it. Absolutly amazing power!

Could someone explain the brake for me? I set my ESC with a medium brake, but not sure why you would want a hard, soft, or no brake?