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Old Apr 03, 2007, 01:06 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Kiwi
I haven't checked whether one can alter the shaft position, but on my 2212-26 the shaft protrudes 5.85mm from the boss at front of the bell (10.35mm from the flat face of the bell), and at the rear 7.65mm beyond the collar (12.15mm from the "rear face" with the threaded mounting holes in it).
Exactly what I needed to know... thanks Phil.
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 02:49 PM
Innov8tive's Avatar
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You really shouldn't move the shaft, unless you need to replace a bent one. There is a flat on the shaft at both ends, and the set screw need to sit in the flat to secure the shaft. The shafts are a pretty tight fit into the front housing to maintain the alignment of the motor.

Lucien
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Old Apr 03, 2007, 09:25 PM
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Lucien & the Dr, thanks guys for your thoughts

The Scorpion 2215-18 is a little heavier than I'd like for the Electric Shock Lucien, I'm trying to keep it as light as possible, but I'll give it a go as I already have one as you know on my 19oz Airfoilz.

It hauls 19oz's around the sky very nicely, so as you say on a 14oz model it should be rather

The 2215-18 produces more thrust than the Hacker 20-20l it replaced, which in turn was better than the Axi 2212/26 I tried at first, which always seemed to be lacking somehow. Maybe mine is just a less than perfect example. The downsides are that it is a heavier motor and eats electrons faster.
Swapping to the 10x5e from a 10x4.7sf as you recommended Lucien seems to work well on the 2215-18 in the few flights that have been done with it on. Some in-flight data logging and a bit of prop hanging needs to be done in less windy conditions than of late to finalise which one I like the most for sure, but the 10x5e is looking good so far, it certainly has more speed into a strong headwind, which is handy for the current wind conditions over here.

PA's specs for their motor do seem very good for it's size & weight, but not being particularly knowledgeable about motors, I, within reason, tend to take what manufacturers claim about their motors to be accurate. If Hacker, Axi, PA, Align or Scorpion etc say motor A has properties xyz, then I tend to take this to be, within reason, accurate. If they were sold over here or PA were a bit more international order friendly, I'd get one to try. They do appear to perform well in all the ES vids. I'll also try the Hacker on the ES whilst I'm at it.

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Old Apr 03, 2007, 09:39 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,893 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Innov8tive
You really shouldn't move the shaft, unless you need to replace a bent one. There is a flat on the shaft at both ends, and the set screw need to sit in the flat to secure the shaft. The shafts are a pretty tight fit into the front housing to maintain the alignment of the motor.

Lucien
OK, thanks. I may need to cut off one end then to work with my mount. Not a big deal.
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Old Apr 04, 2007, 01:49 PM
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All this talk of motor shafts & look what I go & do this afternoon, Doh!

Brain to thumb error...

These e props are a lot tougher than the sf ones. I've snapped a few sf's in my time but this e prop was undamaged & lives to fight another day
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Old Apr 04, 2007, 02:39 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Yep... done it on my AXI and Hacker. Those were pretty easy to tap out and replace once the set screw it removed. I'll be interested if this is also the case with your Scorpion.
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Old Apr 04, 2007, 03:34 PM
Innov8tive's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
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ukpaul,

Well, that is a first! You are now the only person that I know of who has actually snapped a Scorpion motor shaft clean off! To honour this fine occasion, I will send you a new motor shaft free of charge. Just PM me your address, and I will get one right out to you!

For the rest of you guys out there, don't get any funny ideas. If you break a shaft, you will have to buy one, but the shaft replacement kit only costs $2.30, and included a new shaft, a retaining collar and a set screw.

Just to let you all know, I got in a series of replacement parts for the Scorpion Motors last week. I now have replacement cross mounts for both the 22mm and 30mm motors, Replacement shafts for all the 22mm motors, Prop adapters for the 22mm motors that fit a 3mm shaft, and have a 5mm threaded prop shaft, Prop adapters for the 30mm motors that fit a 5mm shaft, and have a 6mm threaded prop shaft, Wobbly adapters for the 22mm motors and stamped aluminum stick mounts that fit the 22mm motors.

All of these parts will be added to our website over the next few days, so check there for availability.

Lucien
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Old Apr 04, 2007, 03:59 PM
Flying motor mount master
fly_boy99's Avatar
San Jose, California, United States
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Where's the 30mm DIY kits???

Heck I'll even beta one free of charge!!!

B
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Old Apr 04, 2007, 07:45 PM
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Many thanks for the offer Lucien, very good of you to do so.

I will PM you my address, but as I'm in the UK, I dont want you to spend a fortune bubble wrapping and boxing it up & then have more expence on costly international shipping. If you can just pop one into an envelope or a tiny jiffy bag and send it for like a $1 or so, then thank you very much, but don't worry about it otherwise.

It was my dumb ass fault afterall & not a manufacturing defect with the motor. It did hit the deck with a fair old wack

I have a spare Hacker 20-20l shaft that is the exact same diameter, just a bit shorter. I can always grind an extra flat onto it to get me going again. A new Scorpion shaft would be nice, but I think I could fix it without one. A ScorpiHacker

The crash is on video actualy , as I'd been filming myself flying a few different models all afternoon, comparing props and such... It was the final flight of the day as I was down to my last charged lipo. I strap a small cheapy vid cam onto my forehead & press go just before taking off. No zooming in and out whilst flying obviously, but the models stay in shot quite well, just get a bit small when flying at a distance.

Anyway, thanks again for the offer.
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Old Apr 05, 2007, 12:23 PM
"You know how I Roll"
cjdscratch's Avatar
United States, CA, Redding
Joined Jan 2007
524 Posts
Check out the 2218-15 in action:

Scorpion 2215-18 on Airfoilz Edge 540 (5 min 30 sec)
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Old Apr 05, 2007, 08:52 PM
Jordan "Woody" King
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New And Improved Video!
Scorpion 2215-18 on Airfoilz Edge 540 (5 min 29 sec)



2215-18 It rocks the airfoilz planes! I have about 30 flights of hard abuse on this motor and still runs like it came out of the box. So far im very impressed! Keep up the good work!

Woody
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Old Apr 05, 2007, 10:30 PM
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Great video. That motor pulls hard!!
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Old Apr 05, 2007, 11:40 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Received my 2212/26 Scorpion today... hope to do some static tests tonight or tomorrow.

First impressions? The appearance, packaging, machining, all are very good as others have said. If it performs as good as it looks, I'll be happy.

Criticisms? The motor leads look to be very small gage for a motor of this class (15A max.). My 400 XT (10A max.) appears to have similar or very slightly larger wire gage (could be insulation thickness). Also, the wires all have black insulation and black shrink tubing on each bullet connector. Some colors to differentiate motor phases to facilitate re-connecting to ESC wiring is needed.
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Old Apr 06, 2007, 01:22 AM
Jordan "Woody" King
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bass3587
Great video. That motor pulls hard!!
Thanks! Yeah, this motor is a beast on this plane! It does some tumbles it never did with my old motor.

Woody
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Old Apr 06, 2007, 02:12 AM
Innov8tive's Avatar
Joined Jan 2007
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Tom,

I have had others ask the same questions, so here are the answers again.

The reason that the lead wires look the way that they do is because the wires that come out of the motor are the actual wires that the stator is wound with. Many motor manufacturers will terminate the stator windings inside the motor, and then run lead wires out of the motor that are covered with thick silicone insulation. This can cause a failure point right where the lead wires solder onto the motor windings, and if it breaks here, it is usually a big pain to fix. By using the actual stator lead wires, the Scorpion motors eliminate this failure point, and you end up with a more reliable motor.

The reason that they look thin is because they are covered with thin heatshrink tubing instead of the thicker silicone insulation used on other motors.

As far as colored heatshrink goes on the motor leads, you always have a 50-50 chance of the motor running backwards with a brushless system. This is regardless of whether the leads are color coded or not. Even if you do put 3 different colors of heatshrink on the motor, and match the colors to the ESC, you still have a 50-50 chance it will run backwards, because you never know which lead to put the different colors on once the motor is built.

If you do put different colors on the motor, then people will think you "Wired the Motor Backwards" if they match up colors and the motor does not spin the right way. In the end, to eliminate the confusion, Scorpion chose to use all black heatshrink.

Hopefully that helps explain the items you noted.

Lucien
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