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Old Mar 14, 2007, 03:06 PM
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Flair Puppeteer Build

Have recently purchased a Flair Puppetteer (Sopwith Pup), from Radical RC. If there is interest in a build thread on this plane....will be glad to document the proccess. Have mostly built wooden gliders (GL, Sagitta XC, Challenger, Camano, Mirage, Oly II), so building a, powered biplane, will be a learning experience.

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Old Mar 15, 2007, 04:22 AM
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go for it! I have one powered by an RCV 60 SP and its lovely to fly.

I would advice you consider your engine choice well as sadly most 4 stroke engines will necesitate cutting the firewall and recessing the engine. I have seen some extent the nose length and sit the firewall back an inch so a four stroke will sit it neatly.

Adam
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Old Mar 15, 2007, 11:11 AM
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Die cut stuff:

Thanks Adam. Am hoping to use a Saito-60 4-stroke engine. Have heard the plane tends to be tail heavy. So...was actually thinking of extending front end, a 1/2" or so. Will have to give that some thought. Right now am cutting out the die cut parts, and cleaning em up somewhat. Lots of the ribs were badly warped. After cutting out all the lightening holes, wetted them down, and piled some weights on top for a few days. Came out pretty straight. Glued some of the doubled formers together and weighted them down also.
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Old Mar 15, 2007, 12:48 PM
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The 60 is way enough power. Not sure lightening holes are actually needed to be honest.
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Old Mar 15, 2007, 10:18 PM
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Adam

I made a mistake...it's a 40 Saito 4-stroke I have. The lightening holes are already die cut into ribs, so am removing them. Even if the weight saved makes little difference, the wing looks better with the cut-outs. And wings that look good... fly better (4th law of aero-looks dynamics).

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Old Mar 15, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Making parts

Cut out the wing / wing strut brackets. Filed notches into brackets, to give epoxy a better surface area. Cut reccess into riblets to accept the brackets, then glued in with 5 min epoxy. Bent up the wire to make tail dragger.

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Old Mar 16, 2007, 09:52 PM
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More parts

The fuel tank and the engine mounts are set in a kinda box. This box is then mounted through a former and against firewall. Incidence angles are built into the box. The 5 (4 sides and a bottom) parts are keyed, but can be put together in many ways, only one of which is right. Took a lot of trial and error (plus some cussing) to get it right. Anyway here it is:

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Old Mar 18, 2007, 08:50 AM
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Lower Wing

Usually like to build the fuselage first, for me it's the most enjoyable part. BUT... made kinda of a big mistake with the fuse sides. They're 4 pieces of 1/8" thick ply which get laminated to make 2 fuselage sides. Now here's the tricky part: there's a right and left to them. You guessed it..... made 2 lefts. Used Titebond to boot, so no separating them. So while waiting for replacements, have gone ahead with the lower wing.

Befor going ahead made copies of plans reduced to 50%, this to make reading them a little less cumbersome. Just about all of the specs and directions are on the plans themselves. Cut up the full size plans, to build on.

With plans all taped down and covered with wax paper, pinned on the root area sheeting, lower cap strips and TE piece. Glued together with thin CA.

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Old Mar 18, 2007, 03:13 PM
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ha ha not just me then!!

I managed to get my flair hannibal fus all jigged up, looking square, checked it 100 times then committed with the CA . Only as I stood back did I notice that 2 formers were upside down. DOH!!!!!

I just carried on and its fine.
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Old Mar 18, 2007, 04:51 PM
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Sure..... Upside down is OK..... but 2 lefts would make the plane fly in a constant and one way circle, good for thermalling but not so good on landing. Used a large carving knife to try and seperate the sides, only managed to make some nice kindling (that's new world english for firewood). Your Hannibal looks great, seems almost full size.

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Old Mar 19, 2007, 08:38 AM
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Spar caps

Added the front and rear bottom spar caps, using thin CA. Made sure cut out, for wheel block, in front bottom sheet was as accurately placed, as possible. The kit comes with a trianglular dihedral gauge, which can be used on one side. Made a matching guage to be used on other side of rib. Found it easier to glue in angled ribs, with gauge on inside of the ribs.

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Old Mar 19, 2007, 09:53 PM
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Erick keep up your building post going. I have the same kit and the same mistakes. Do you find the instructions and plans hard to understand ? Gerald
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Old Mar 20, 2007, 03:43 AM
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Gents,

sadly as a brit, it gives me no pleasure to say that flair is not one of the most helpful companies when it comes to customer support. If you get any assistance from then once you have bought a kit, your doing well. I rang them to enquire as to the C of G for the hannibal and was told no one knew!!

Its one of those kits that once you have built it , you know how to do another one quicker and easier!
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Old Mar 20, 2007, 07:20 AM
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Gerald,

Once I was able to interpert the english way of saying things, the plans seemed a little clearer. Took awhile to figure out "scrap" view meant a cross section view. Lot of the directions were kinda terse, I had to reread most of them a few times, before being able to understand ALL they were saying. Is your plane done? If so, please post a photo, would really like to see it.

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Old Mar 20, 2007, 07:26 AM
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Da ribs

Finally time to add the things that will make this start to look like a wing...the ribs. All the ribs in both wings are ply (1/8"). Am used to balsa ribs and spruce spar caps. This is kinda the opposite. Don't like to use thin CA on ply or hardwoods. But I made a test of gluing one of the cutouts (from the ribs) to some balsa with the CA, and testing to destruction. Couldn't pull em apart, so it's going to be thin CA on the rib / rib cap and bottom sheet joints. So this next step went fairly fast. Used a right triangle to make sure each rib was square to board. Tricky part was, in not making triangle, part of the wing. Notches for TE cap strip needed a little bit of sanding out (not quite deep enough). Other than that things lined up pretty good.

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