I got a Lanyu F5b Hotliner - Page 4

wolw · Mar 29, 2007, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-MIC

Also I think I would start to build the CAT#2 (an 'export'/ expensive version )in a coming longer holidays.
Seems like the Yellow / blue is Australian version?

David

What about European versions ?

Anyone know if it's available here yet ?

//Peter

Chris F · Mar 29, 2007, 03:48 AM

Hi David

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-MIC

@ Chris, is it one of the easiest 'build' you ever did? Maiden scheduled yet?

This is absolutely the easiest build (assembly) I have ever done. My last build was a scratch built scale model of an Australian designed and manufactured aeroplane called the Wackett Trainer which took months. This is like a holiday in comparison

I wish the aileron servos were a better fit though, but that's not a big deal. I am waiting for an esc to arrive in the mail and hope to be flying it in the next couple of weeks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-MIC

Seems like the Yellow / blue is Australian version?

The Lanyu hotliner is also available here in Red/white and Orange/White. Red/White is my favorite, but not as easy to see as the Yellow/Blue when it's overcast.

Wing-span · Mar 29, 2007, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolw

What about European versions ?

Anyone know if it's available here yet ?

//Peter

Graupner do a version called the 'Speed' Looks like it is out of the same mould.

Graupner Speed

Chris F · Mar 29, 2007, 05:38 AM

This Lanyu doesn't come with a motor mount. What is the best material to use, and what is the easiest way to determine its diameter so the motor shaft sticks out of the fuse enough for the spinner to fit on nicely. I have heard that circut board is good for motor mounts. Where do you get a clean piece of it or should I go for something else?

Chris.

C-MIC · Mar 29, 2007, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolw

What about European versions ?

Anyone know if it's available here yet ?

//Peter

It is also being sold as 'SPEED FREAK' in a UK, I am quite impressed with an advertisement in a UK magazine either RCME or QFEI , which drew my attention by some look alike Chinese words. and it is suggested for 300-3000W. It has a white wing/ H Stab. with strong contrast colour , a deep orange colour fuselage.

Long before I was given 2 of them from a good friend due to a bet/ joke with my friend.... In fact it had been discussed / identified by several experience Belgium F5B competitors in several thread about NESAIL Euro made copy called WILCO or sth,.it appearrs in the website of Graunpner as SPEED.( no original design out there as it should be,according to some who had flown the TRUE copies.. called ?? EVOLUTION or sth.).

Hope it helps .

David

OK , I am going to FIGHT with the PC/vid cam.to donw load some pics I think it would help others in assembly of this 'F5x'.

Stuntman · Mar 29, 2007, 08:26 PM

Chris,

Circuit board is the generally the go. You can get it from Jaycar or most Dick Smith outlets. If your pedantic (like I am) you can etch the copper off, otherwise leave it on or sand it off. You can get the etchant - ammonium persulfate - from these guys too if you want to go this route. Just don't get bread board, you want just the plain PCB

For lower power options a piece of 3mm ply would work fine too

Generally you want the mount to sit back from the nose of the fuse 1 or 2mm - just enough so the motor mount screw heads do not interfere with your spinner. I also usually file in some v-grooves or drill small holes on the very outer ring of the mount so that the glue has something to get a good purchase on between the fuse and the motor mount.

hope this helps.

cheers, Shawn

Chris F · Mar 30, 2007, 01:20 AM

Thanks Shawn,

That helps a lot. I'll only be using a power system capable of about 600 Watts to start off with, but I'm sure I will want to upgrade so I'll get some PCB.

Chris.

C-MIC · Mar 30, 2007, 09:27 AM

I have tried hard to make things in details, but always have problem when I press submit, it .....
just few words about the #2:
--it is a so called 'export version' but it has no difference in builds quality except NO DING AND DENT , and its cheaper too.

--I intend to build it light and use what i have on hands, spend least time and money.
--my goal of power= power to weight ratio= 150w/lb , that little outrunner weighs 60grs net and rated as 450w. It is a H version, and it is mated to a kontronik kpg27,5,2:1 ratio.
Chris,
How is your build? When to maiden.pics?

David.

Chris F · Mar 30, 2007, 05:39 PM

Thanks for that David,

I really like how you strengthen the motor mount area with the carbon fibre cloth using the balloon. Do you think I can get away with not doing that?

I would very much appreciate a thread on the cheap Chinese motors you have used. I'm sure the cost of high quality motors puts a lot of people off getting into hotliners. Some of the cheap stuff will do the job for sports flyers that want to try out these models.

Today I will be buying some Shoe Goo; I found a place that sells it yesterday. I will also buy some cheap callipers, a drafting compass and some PCB to make my motor mount. I'll take some pics soon when I glue in the servos. Maiden will be when I get the esc.

Chris.

Synth · Mar 30, 2007, 06:59 PM

Be carefull with the goop. If you use to much you'll get warped surfaces. Ask me how I know. Even the fumes of that stuff does damage so please use only as much as you need.
Ron.

C-MIC · Mar 30, 2007, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris F

Thanks for that David,

I really like how you strengthen the motor mount area with the carbon fibre cloth using the balloon. Do you think I can get away with not doing that?

I would very much appreciate a thread on the cheap Chinese motors you have used. I'm sure the cost of high quality motors puts a lot of people off getting into hotliners. Some of the cheap stuff will do the job for sports flyers that want to try out these models.

Today I will be buying some Shoe Goo; I found a place that sells it yesterday. I will also buy some cheap callipers, a drafting compass and some PCB to make my motor mount. I'll take some pics soon when I glue in the servos. Maiden will be when I get the esc.

Chris.

Chris,
I dont think it will have any problems without any reforcement at lower power, say 1kw. Got several other hotliners are built as stock. I did that for :
-- I need to make firewall anyway, adding bit of extra works is nothing.
-- that way I could check out if the UK ad of it about 300-3kw is right with more peace of mind

I may put an oversized motor into it without worry or excuse when it failed.( hopefully not).
I will try the NEW way of mounting servos in this light bird, the servo itself is also new to me too, Futaba's digi-3154. Anyone tried them and comments pls?

David

Chris F · Mar 30, 2007, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synth

Be carefull with the goop. If you use to much you'll get warped surfaces. Ask me how I know. Even the fumes of that stuff does damage so please use only as much as you need.
Ron.

Hi Ron,

I'll try to use as little as possible. I've never used it before so I hope my idea of as little as possible is enough. We'll see

Stuntman · Mar 31, 2007, 08:40 AM

Chris if your concerned about shoe goo another method is to wrap your servos in heat shrink, roughen up the shrink and epoxy them in.

If you ever need to get them out its just a matter of slicing the heat shrink. Once the servos out you can then carefully peel off the shrink and your left with a perfect bed for refitting a servo in the exact position.

cheers, Shawn

Chris F · Apr 01, 2007, 07:51 AM

Hi Shawn,

If I wrap the servos with heat shrink I will have added the depth of servo case I have already ground off and the servos will no longer fit. They just fit now. I am tempted to get the HS125MG's and do the shrink-wrap, but after butchering these ones I feel I should use them. I'll see how I feel about it in a day or two; I've got other stuff on my mind at the moment. I did get the PCB and I made the motor mount today.

Mike Seale · Apr 01, 2007, 09:36 AM

I have always just roughened the servos and then epoxied them in because (1) I am concerned that a heatshrink wrap will add some additional flex/movement into the system and (2) we don't have goop over here. The downside of just using epoxy is (1) if you ever need to get the servo out it is not easy (but you've have difficulty with goop anyway) and (2) they can sometimes pop out if the glue joint cracks. The irony is that the servo you want to get out 'never' has a weak joint - I had to dremmel out a HS125 last year, picking out the gears, motor and circuit board bit-by-bit

Mar 30, 2007, 09:27 AM	#53
C-MIC Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 1,439	I have tried hard to make things in details, but always have problem when I press submit, it ..... just few words about the #2: --it is a so called 'export version' but it has no difference in builds quality except NO DING AND DENT , and its cheaper too. --I intend to build it light and use what i have on hands, spend least time and money. --my goal of power= power to weight ratio= 150w/lb , that little outrunner weighs 60grs net and rated as 450w. It is a H version, and it is mated to a kontronik kpg27,5,2:1 ratio. Chris, How is your build? When to maiden.pics? David. Attached Thumbnails Top to bottom: CAT#1, RW2 Full carbon, CAT#2 and the RW#2 bottom, see those fgk tape on servo bay. It is done for added secure to servos, especially with servo horns like D60, prevents wing flutters as mentioned by MIKE previously. 47.2 KB · Views: 186 This dent costs some USD100- 36.7 KB · Views: 129 Repaired, though it is still not perfect. 24.8 KB · Views: 116 That is done with a balloon, and an unsightful process shown in other pic. here. 54.6 KB · Views: 142 UNSIGHTFUL process? 50.4 KB · Views: 132 Comparison in size. Top is biggest motor in that non badged 'catalogue' said, a 215gr motor, rated as 1000w cont and 2000 burst less than 15 seconds. Middle is a geared FUN 600 motor. Below is the one which is geared ,worked great with that 13 33.6 KB · Views: 146 That is what the amazing smaller outrunner looks, it is rated as 450W. That series of outrunner are the BEST (inrunners/outrunners) and EFFICIENT China made motor I have used. I might do a thread about china made motors I own. That is a 60gr motor, the ge 21.4 KB · Views: 131 That is accy supplied with each airframe. Only that circular cover is used. I don't like servo covers on wings. 56.4 KB · Views: 121 Last edited by C-MIC; Mar 30, 2007 at 11:45 AM.

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Mar 29, 2007, 05:38 AM	#49
Chris F The Revegetator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 1,663	This Lanyu doesn't come with a motor mount. What is the best material to use, and what is the easiest way to determine its diameter so the motor shaft sticks out of the fuse enough for the spinner to fit on nicely. I have heard that circut board is good for motor mounts. Where do you get a clean piece of it or should I go for something else? Chris.

Mar 29, 2007, 08:26 PM	#51
Stuntman Upside down Miss Jane.... Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Georgetown, Newcastle, Australia Posts: 2,102	Chris, Circuit board is the generally the go. You can get it from Jaycar or most Dick Smith outlets. If your pedantic (like I am) you can etch the copper off, otherwise leave it on or sand it off. You can get the etchant - ammonium persulfate - from these guys too if you want to go this route. Just don't get bread board, you want just the plain PCB For lower power options a piece of 3mm ply would work fine too Generally you want the mount to sit back from the nose of the fuse 1 or 2mm - just enough so the motor mount screw heads do not interfere with your spinner. I also usually file in some v-grooves or drill small holes on the very outer ring of the mount so that the glue has something to get a good purchase on between the fuse and the motor mount. hope this helps. cheers, Shawn

Mar 30, 2007, 01:20 AM	#52
Chris F The Revegetator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 1,663	Thanks Shawn, That helps a lot. I'll only be using a power system capable of about 600 Watts to start off with, but I'm sure I will want to upgrade so I'll get some PCB. Chris.

Mar 30, 2007, 05:39 PM	#54
Chris F The Revegetator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 1,663	Thanks for that David, I really like how you strengthen the motor mount area with the carbon fibre cloth using the balloon. Do you think I can get away with not doing that? I would very much appreciate a thread on the cheap Chinese motors you have used. I'm sure the cost of high quality motors puts a lot of people off getting into hotliners. Some of the cheap stuff will do the job for sports flyers that want to try out these models. Today I will be buying some Shoe Goo; I found a place that sells it yesterday. I will also buy some cheap callipers, a drafting compass and some PCB to make my motor mount. I'll take some pics soon when I glue in the servos. Maiden will be when I get the esc. Chris.

Mar 30, 2007, 06:59 PM	#55
Synth earth belowus drifting falling Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Victoria B.C. Canada Posts: 1,345	Be carefull with the goop. If you use to much you'll get warped surfaces. Ask me how I know. Even the fumes of that stuff does damage so please use only as much as you need. Ron.

Mar 31, 2007, 08:40 AM	#58
Stuntman Upside down Miss Jane.... Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Georgetown, Newcastle, Australia Posts: 2,102	Chris if your concerned about shoe goo another method is to wrap your servos in heat shrink, roughen up the shrink and epoxy them in. If you ever need to get them out its just a matter of slicing the heat shrink. Once the servos out you can then carefully peel off the shrink and your left with a perfect bed for refitting a servo in the exact position. cheers, Shawn

Apr 01, 2007, 07:51 AM	#59
Chris F The Revegetator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 1,663	Hi Shawn, If I wrap the servos with heat shrink I will have added the depth of servo case I have already ground off and the servos will no longer fit. They just fit now. I am tempted to get the HS125MG's and do the shrink-wrap, but after butchering these ones I feel I should use them. I'll see how I feel about it in a day or two; I've got other stuff on my mind at the moment. I did get the PCB and I made the motor mount today.

Apr 01, 2007, 09:36 AM	#60
Mike Seale f5b-uk Join Date: May 2002 Location: Dorset, UK Posts: 2,225	I have always just roughened the servos and then epoxied them in because (1) I am concerned that a heatshrink wrap will add some additional flex/movement into the system and (2) we don't have goop over here. The downside of just using epoxy is (1) if you ever need to get the servo out it is not easy (but you've have difficulty with goop anyway) and (2) they can sometimes pop out if the glue joint cracks. The irony is that the servo you want to get out 'never' has a weak joint - I had to dremmel out a HS125 last year, picking out the gears, motor and circuit board bit-by-bit