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Old Mar 25, 2007, 03:15 PM   #31
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Never mind,Mike seale is way too obnoxious for me..Sorry Chris...

Last edited by flightmare; Mar 25, 2007 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2007, 03:34 PM   #32
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Well, that explains it. And I thought the 56 was a good servo.
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Old Mar 25, 2007, 05:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flightmare
Never mind,Mike seale is way too obnoxious for me..Sorry Chris...
Not sure what I did that was so obnoxious. You're more than welcome to report me to the moderators for my behaviour...or you can just spit the dummy out and edit your posts.

Chris. Your free to take advice from whoever you want.
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Old Mar 25, 2007, 05:30 PM   #34
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I don't think Mike is obnoxious. I think he's extremely helpful!
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Old Mar 25, 2007, 06:14 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Seale
Chris. Your free to take advice from whoever you want.
Thanks Mike,

I value most advice I get regarding a subject I am still learning about, and yours has been particularly useful.

flightmare,

You are obviously biased against Hitec servos but you haven't said why.


The main thing as far as I'm concerned is that the HS 56 HB's are going to be shoehorned into this model, hopefully in a way that will enable their removal if needed. I'm at a point where I would only use other servos if there was no way of getting the HS56HB's in, or if there was a majority warning me against it. My plan is of course to get these servos in neatly so I can't tell the difference.
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Old Mar 25, 2007, 06:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-MIC
Hi Chris,
Glad to see your beauty has come though with the creased tip which has happened to many of 1 Pc wing airframes, a ZOOM, a RW2 and a RW2 SPORT.

Sorry to reply late because I just get back 'home' yesterday night and slept like a dog....
Regarding the protruding servo issue, imho, it will not be that bad as you thought. I used HS56Hb all around in an EXCITE F5D, and same thing happens to the wing and the tail. I don't notice any bad effects so far. It may make the whirling (whisper) sound bigger I believe.

David
Hi David,

Like I have said earlier, this model is going to be powered with a cheap Motor/ESC/Lipo combination for a bit of fun. As for a some extra whistling (if there is), that won't worry me at all I look forward to some photos of the Cat.

Chris.
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Old Mar 25, 2007, 07:43 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Seale
I got it but did not understand why you would recommend a cheap 'park-flyer' servo. Like I said, I will use D60's when needs must, but they are nowhere near as good as the HS56. Now, if you'd recommended Volz Wingmaxx, that's a different matter.

And because the servos have to be glued in it really does not matter that you cut the case a bit...assume they are in there for good and you'll never need or want to use them in another model.

I'm amazed you can fly your models like this. Even slight movement of the servo will equal slop and flutter at high speed. And flutter will very quickly cause the flimsy servo horn hole to stretch which adds even more flutter, and so on.
Thanks for the remind me about that, or I should elaborated about the use of 'stools'..Mike's point is so right, it is wimpy IF THOSE TINY D-60 SERVOS ARE SOLELY mounted by them, I USE A PLATE OF FGK PLATE screwing OVER THE WHOLE SERVO instead of just mount it as it is supposed to with 2 tiny screws. My old brain always refuse to use 'glue mount method of modern days,' I like those traditional mounting means , almost ALL of my hotships are mount by 3 blocks of hard wood and a plate of 0,3mm fgk plate.

@flightmares, no offense about the servos, like many people think 125 are great, but to some , it isn't. Just personal experience to share. NONE is absolutely right nor NONE is definitely wrong.
By the way, has anyone got experience on the newer HITEC's HS-45hb? Are they in the market or not? Similar spec as HS56hs, but thinner to 9mm.

@ Chris, I have lot of those china made motors, some of them are GOOD indeed, especially use in our hotliner type burst runs. I have several 36x56mm sized mated to a pgb and 2 of them in my Gillette 2 and a Twin, both has been run at 1200+/-100w level with 4s3p! (100A+/-10A!) Those cheaper copies do save me LOT of money in my early E days, few comments on them:

-HEAT is the universal killer to MOST of china motors, DON'T RUN THEM CONTINUOUSLY, therefore good for hotliner type runs, otherwise, LOT OF COOLING is NEEDED.

- Get the cheapiest you could get if going economical way, there is little or NO difference between them, especially the inrunners, there are only 3 or 4 bigger ftys making them, I could see many of them are re-badged in different countries with different names. And there are some significant improvement made to them when I visited one fty 2 yrs ago, like those 2 mentioned are tank with improved back plate....but they are WAY CHEAPER than I bought them 5yrs ago!

Good luck and enjoy your project.
David
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Old Mar 26, 2007, 04:00 AM   #38
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I just bought new version of D60 from Staufenbiel and now they have very sturdy servo arms (about double thickness). But they have also changed something else. They don't move as much as older version and are little less precise when they move. The centering is still excellent.
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Old Mar 27, 2007, 11:18 PM   #39
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I have received my Lanyu and propose to fit it out with HS-125's for ailerons, HS-65 for the elevator and a Hacker B40-6L with GP2200's.

Does anyone know the c of g is?


Swift
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Old Mar 28, 2007, 12:24 AM   #40
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new D60 servo

Quote:
Originally Posted by sayno2glo
I just bought new version of D60 from Staufenbiel and now they have very sturdy servo arms (about double thickness). But they have also changed something else. They don't move as much as older version and are little less precise when they move. The centering is still excellent.
Interesting. The limited movement (assume you mean reduced angular throw) is maybe not such a bad thing (for racing) as I usually had to dial the throws down on the Tx a lot anyway. It almost sounds like there is more gears in the train, but that doesnt fit for the 'less precise' observation. Why dont you take it apart & have a looksee? Im still amazed mine held together very well, skiny arms included.
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Old Mar 28, 2007, 04:37 PM   #41
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Hi Swift,

Quoted from post #9 by C-MIC (David) "1) My favourite is CG 65-70mm behind LE".

This will be a good place to start, although I think it would be nice to have Model Flight tell us too. This is supposed to be the same as the Graupner Speed according to Mike O'Reilly at MF, so that should be easy to find out.

What Colour Lanyu did you get? I'd love to see some pics, and feel free to do your assembly here in this thread if you like. Was there any damage to your model like mine? Let me know how your servos fit. HS 125's for the ailerons should fit much better than my HS 56HB's.

Chris.

Edit. I emailed Mike at Model Flight this morning and will pass on any info I get.

Last edited by Chris F; Mar 28, 2007 at 07:32 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2007, 07:32 PM   #42
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I got this reply from Mike O'Reilly.

Hi Chris

Start with the CG at 33% back from the Leading Edge and then try it going back 1-2mm at a time.

Regards

Mike O'Reilly
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Old Mar 29, 2007, 12:44 AM   #43
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Chris,

I got the yellow & blue version and it arrived without any damage. I was impressed with the overall quality. I added some light glass to the servo bays to give a little more strength.

The HS125 were an easy fit, I just cut off the two side mounting lugs. The right aileron cover is not a perfect fit but with a little tape it stays put. The elevator servo arm is a little long and does not allow the cover to fit flush but I don't want to start taking things out as the control is very direct and well aligned.

I have used the EZone write up on the Hobby Lobby Tiger as my reference.
I will not have a chance to put it in the air until the 7-cell comp over Easter at Aubury.

Swift
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Old Mar 29, 2007, 01:40 AM   #44
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Good luck with the 7-cell comp, and let us know how the model goes. I have an esc in the mail and hope to be flying mine over Easter too.
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Old Mar 29, 2007, 03:08 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris F
I got this reply from Mike O'Reilly.

Hi Chris

Start with the CG at 33% back from the Leading Edge and then try it going back 1-2mm at a time.

Regards

Mike O'Reilly
Model Flight
33% should be a safe point to start with. My NEVER TRY AGAIN CG is 83mm or beyond. Almost trashes my #1 , lucky to have enough height for spiral death , it happened so quick and without warning! It happened because I changed the old power combo for weight reduction, motor changed from 500 sized to 480, and batt from 3s3p Conions to 4S2P Conxells. And I think major problem is from replacement of RX power unit , from a UBEC+350mAH lipos to a 4 cells of SANYO lattest technologies---a new gen of NiMH with ULTRA LOW SELF discharge rate similar to Lipos. (I am a Guinea pig and will report the result of it IF everything doing well as schedule).

@ Chris, is it one of the easiest 'build' you ever did? Maiden scheduled yet?
I will post some pics about the CAT#1 (it is a 'amiss' / cheaper version for china market) when the car comes back (I have no driving license ) where the camera and CAT#1 are in there, so I could fly it more offen.
Also I think I would start to build the CAT#2 (an 'export'/ expensive version )in a coming longer holidays.
Seems like the Yellow / blue is Australian version?



David
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