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Old Mar 11, 2007, 02:36 PM
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Albuquerque NM
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Mak, Things are looking good, keep it up!!!

PAT
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Old Mar 12, 2007, 06:59 AM
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USA, MA, Longmeadow
Joined Jun 2003
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Thanks, Aerominded and Pat. I appreciate it. The fiberglassing continues. It's going to take me awhile to get that part done. As to spring, well the water here is still all very hard, so I've got some time before we get to having "soft" water again.

Yesterday I built the battery box and hatch. I spent about four hours bending up the bow rail and silver soldering the stanchions. It came out OK, but not perfect. I found the brazing rod included in the kit a little easier to work with than the music wire generally used for landing gear.

Mark
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Old Mar 12, 2007, 11:02 AM
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PDX, OR
Joined Dec 2002
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The best thing about Pat's plans is that they allow anyone from the experinced builder to the novice to scratch build.

Looking good 'Buzz'
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Old Mar 12, 2007, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umi_Ryuzuki
Looking good 'Buzz'
Thanks, Umi. For a first foray into wood boat kits, this one was a good choice for me.

Mark
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Old Mar 12, 2007, 02:15 PM
crash lessons available
Atwater,California
Joined Oct 2006
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Mark,

Awesome work!! She's going to be a cutie, keep up the great work. So far on a scale from 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest to build how would you score the build so far? I ask because I am seriously thinking about building my first boat and with this threads detailed information sure will help.

OR any other ideas of another beginner boat?.... I do like a challenge

Thanks John
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Old Mar 12, 2007, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash 101
Mark,

Awesome work!! She's going to be a cutie, keep up the great work. So far on a scale from 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest to build how would you score the build so far? I ask because I am seriously thinking about building my first boat and with this threads detailed information sure will help.

OR any other ideas of another beginner boat?.... I do like a challenge

Thanks John
Hi John,
On a your scale of 1-10, I would say this is a 4-5 for difficulty. The hardest part of the build is getting the balsa sheeting to conform to the bow. And that isn't a problem if you soak the balsa and use clamps.

I think the issue of which model to pick is more a matter of what you want to have at the end. In my case, I was looking for something straight forward to build, made of wood (to try fiberglassing), and that looked "sporty" (if that term is applicable to boats). So the Sport Fisherman design appealed to me, along with it being a wood boat. I already had a GWS Speed 400 motor on hand, so that is what is going to power it. I have an older Hitec 75mHz surface transmitter I bought off of a flying buddy, so that's what I'm using for RC. I still need to get an ESC and a receiver. This one will use an HS-55 for the rudder, and I have a bunch of those sitting around. So, other than the fiberglassing stuff (which will probably do a dozen boat hulls), it is a pretty inexpensive build for me.

I'm sure the experts/frequent posters here could advise you on a first boat build, better than I, based on the kind of model you want to build, be it a tug/workboat, military ship, runabout, etc. and the size model you want to have. Having looked at a variety of boats and types, there is a lot of variation in size/weight, power requirements, etc. At 18", the Marina is kind of like a "parkflyer-sized" boat.

Mark
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Old Mar 12, 2007, 04:29 PM
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buzz, i see you are a flyer also like me, i have tons of GWS stuff on hand, as you know parkflyers come with brushed motors that most of us dont use, so ill put them to work in boats ill be using a gws motor in my Daphne,
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 06:49 PM
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Larry, I've even thought of using a spare Pixie20P for an ESC, but I think I'll get a car/boat ESC instead, in order to have reverse.

For the experts, how many coats of resin should I put on the interior of the hull? I did one coat early this morning, but don't know if I should do a second one. I am making an assumption (out of ignorance) that weight is much less of an issue with boats than with planes, so that the weight of a second coat would not be much of an issue on performance. Is that assumption correct?

Mark
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 07:38 PM
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Monterey Bay California
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One thorough coat of resin is all you need on the interior... that helps seal the wood and goes the extra mile by really glueing the structure together!

Weight is less of an issue in boats than in the light, floaty planes that Pat and others have created (which we admire so much!) but it is still very important to consider- certainly don't want to build in more weight than is necessary- with an 18" boat, it probably won't take much to get her sitting on her lines in the water- better to have to add a little ballast if needed!

Re perfomance, saving weight will make a powerboat perform (speedwise) better, generally, given the same power source- another performance improvement can come from longer run times if weight saved in building the boat can be exchanged for larger batteries

Glad to hear things are progressing!
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 08:42 PM
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Thanks for the advice, Aero. I will leave it at one coat on the interior. I know that (at least where airplanes are concerned) I tend to build heavy anyway. But I assumed that weight would be less of an issue with boats.

Another genuine newbie question. The kit comes with a plastic propellor. It fits the shaft (3/32 music wire) rather loosely. The instructions say to epoxy it to the shaft.
In thinking about the motor and propeller, it occurs to me that the motor will turn counter-clockwise (left hand, I presume) viewed from behind the boat. Is that correct? Were the motor mounted in the nose of the airplane, viewed from the cockpit, it would be turning to the right (clockwise). So, here are the newbie questions of the evening: How do I know I have a left hand prop, and how do I tell which is the front of the prop, and which is the back (toward the rudder)?

Mark
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 08:58 PM
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Monterey Bay California
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Hummm, have a picture of the prop you can post? A look at it can help!
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 10:11 PM
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Atwater,California
Joined Oct 2006
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Mark,
Thanks for all the input your advice is greatly appreciated. I look forward to each day reading your next posts. Keep up the great work.
Thanks again
John
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Old Mar 13, 2007, 11:10 PM
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Brisbane Qld Australia
Joined Jun 2006
573 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzltyr
How do I know I have a left hand prop, and how do I tell which is the front of the prop, and which is the back (toward the rudder)?

Mark
Here is a prop diagram that I acquired from the offshore electrics website, it basically outlines all of the different areas of a racing prop but it is all relative to what you are needing to know, it is a little aggressive on the pitch but you will get the idea. The prop pictured is a left hand prop, as with an airplane, the concave section is the pushing part and would face toward the stern of the boat as it were, hope this helps.
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Old Mar 14, 2007, 06:20 AM
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Aero, I'm attaching a couple of pics of the prop. From looking around at various vendors, the prop looks like a Dumas #3001. It does have a 1" diameter. Dumas says they are left hand.

Deestingray, that is a great pic. Thank you! My searches had not turned up anything that informative.

I was also thinking of silver soldering a washer on the end of the prop shaft, so as not to totally rely on the epoxy/music wire joint to hold the propeller in place. That way, even if the epoxy joint broke, the prop wouldn't go spinning off into the depths. Thoughts?

My thanks again to all who contribute their expertise to my efforts!

Mark
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Old Mar 14, 2007, 06:50 AM
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Frank Hurd's Avatar
Gulfport/Biloxi Biloxi Reg, Mississippi, United States
Joined Dec 2000
1,515 Posts
JB Weld

Mark, suggest JB Weld to epoxy the prop on to the shaft. Stabilit Express might be better but it's so darn expensive. A washer soldered to the shaft is good insurance. Probably no need to silver solder, though. Just don't solder while the prop is on the shaft!(No offense intended).
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