|Wing Area:||230 sq. in.|
|Wing Loading:||16 oz/sq. ft.|
|Servos:||12g Mini Servo (3 Wire)|
|Transmitter:||ZX10 3ch FM proportional (27mHz)|
|Receiver:||6-channel FM receiver|
|Battery:||10.8V 1000mAh Ni-MH|
|Motor:||480 Brushed Power with gear reduction|
|ESC:||Auto-Cutoff w/ Lipo Select|
|Available from:||Horizon Hobby|
A few years ago I was lured back into the RC hobby planes by a plane from a new company called ParkZone. It was their first offering: a Ready-to-Fly electric plane called the Stryker. I had my doubts about buying an electric plane; eight years previously in my home state of Ohio, electric was just not the thing when it came to RC planes. But the times have definitely changed and my experience reviewing this plane made me rediscover what it takes to make me spontaneously grin from ear to ear.
ParkZone continues the tradition of providing everything you need - all in one box - to get into the sky and flying (grin included). Let’s take a look at their latest offering... the Spitfire Mk IIB RTF .
ParkZone’s planes come to you with everything you need to fly in one box, with the intent of getting you in the air FAST.
ParkZone deserves commendation for listening to the suggestions of their many faithful customers. There has been an evolution of improvements with each new plane as a result, and the Spitfire is no exception to this progression.
This Spitfire comes with the motor, gearbox, prop, elevator servo and the receiver already installed in the fuselage (foam built over a plastic reinforcing frame). The other servo is pre-installed in the wing, with the control linkages for the ailerons factory installed and connected to both control horns on the ailerons and the servo. The wing is foam with no reinforcing spar noted. The plane comes completely covered with all decals already applied.
The ParkZone Spitfire manual does an excellent job of guiding you through the few steps necessary to complete the assembly, but there are a few items worthy of consideration and explanation.
I decided to pre-thread the screws into the three plastic receiver holes located on the fuselage plastic structure. While this is probably not necessary, I thought it would help me get the proper feel for the torque required to insert these rather small screws into their respective holes.
While the manual says that you need to find the aileron extension and use it to connect the aileron servo to the receiver, there is no extension provided and in my very humble opinion, one is not required. The servo wire is long enough that you can just plug it directly into the receiver (taking care to orient it in the same way as the already installed elevator servo). To eliminate confusion about into which channel the aileron needs to be plugged, Parkzone has added this clarification on their website:
We have become aware that the label on the receiver of the ParkZone Spitfire RTF may have shifted and may cause some confusion regarding the channel sequence. Due to this, the elevator may appear to be plugged into the rudder channel when you look at the receiver.
The correct sequence for elevator and aileron are as follows:
Elevator lead (already plugged in at factory) should be installed into the 3rd three pin port from the bottom of the receiver. The aileron servo lead (no servo extension necessary) needs to simply be plugged in directly below the elevator servo (2nd three pin port from bottom).
Please perform the function check prescribed in the manual and call 1-877-504-0233 if you have any questions.
We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused you.
NOTE: Exercise a bit of caution when tightening the three screws that hold the wing in the fuselage saddle. Though you have to be certain you tighten them adequately so that the wing is tight against the fuselage saddle and won’t pull away in flight, it is possible to over-torque them and strip the holes.
There is really no assembly required for the fuselage. It is worth taking a few moments to check it over thoroughly to insure that there is no shipping damage. Mine arrived in perfect condition except for a tiny crack in the battery access door.
Take a little time to make sure the horizontal stabilizer is installed correctly - it will translate into a better flying plane! It is important to properly align the horizontal stabilizer in relation to the rest of the airframe being careful not to put the control horn on the wrong side of the fuselage!
Before you secure the horizontal stabilizer with the included four pieces of tape, it is worth making a few measurements to be sure you really have it positioned properly. Since the antenna comes already installed, I removed it from the hold-down holes it is threaded through on the vertical stabliizer and used it to check the orientation of the horizontal stabilizer. I referenced a distinct point on each side of the stab and then used my finger to mark the point where it intersected the antenna. I swung the antenna back and forth across both sides of the stab to make sure it was not cocked. I also measured out from the vertical stabilizer to the same reference point on both sides of the horizontal stabilizer.
While attaching the horizontal stabilizer on my review Spitfire, I experienced difficulty in getting the correct actual and visual measurements. I noticed that the fuselage had an ever-so-slight twist aft from the trailing edge of the wing. I found it necessary to strike a compromise between the proper placement based on actual measurements and on what my eye said looked right. Never underestimate the power of a good eyeball for a final check!
I set the elevator for a neutral position, even with the horizontal stabilizer. (There is no need to trim it in anticipation of the airplane possibly nosing over in flight; this one tends to climb, and you may even need some down trim.)
When you attach the clevis to the control horn, slide the piece of silicon tubing up and over the clevis to insure it will not open in flight.
The center of gravity is listed as being around 67 millimeters with the stock NiMH. I think that the engineers at ParkZone designed the plane around the stock battery, so switching to a lighter lithium polymer battery might shift the center of gravity aft.
I am a pretty experienced flyer, but I was impressed with the wealth of great suggestions ParkZone provides in the manual. Topics such as Choosing a Flying Field, Optimal Flying Conditions and hints and suggestions for all phases of flight make this a mandatory read before you fly!
ParkZone recommends that the initial flights take place with the mode switch set to "A" for reduced throw on the ailerons and elevator. I opted to go with the "B" setting on my maiden flight since ParkZone includes a “high-tech” anemometer in the box. Did you miss it?! It is the red streamer that you are supposed to attach to the tip of the transmitter aerial! Believe it or not, it is a valuable tool to assist in your appraisal of whether you should take to the sky on any given day. The winds on the day I maidened mine were just at the edge of being too much according to the manual’s maximum recommended winds of 8 MPH.
The manual does a sterling job of describing the best way to hand launch the Spitfire. The included 480 geared brushed motor pulls pretty hard with the stock 10.8 volt 1000mah battery and has no problem climbing out on a hand launch. Make sure she leaves your hand nice and level and keep her turned into the wind so you don’t make any low level, low airspeed turns. This Spitfire flies along quite nicely at about half throttle and the included NiMH battery is good for at least ten minutes of normal flight.
I was amazed at how easy it is to land this plane! Its slow speed performance is very stable and predictable with no tendency to drop a wingtip on a slow landing approach. With a slight headwind it is even easier; just aim the Spitfire into the wind, pull the throttle back and let her descend. When she is a foot or two off of the ground, feather in a small bit of elevator to flare her nicely onto the terra firma. Make sure to completely chop the throttle before touchdown to avoid breaking a prop.
The stall characteristics of the Spitfire are very forgiving. The wing area is ample and when you finally do run out of lift, the stall is gentle and it is easy to recover with an advance of the throttle. It does not tend to fall off to either side in stalls, but instead just drops the nose.
The Spitfire likes to climb, and while the vertical climb out is certainly not unlimited, the power system will let you pull up and quickly gain enough altitude to get out of harm's way. With a slight dive to gain the speed necessary to maintain momentum over the top, it is possible to loop the Spitfire. The lack of a rudder makes it a little difficult to make tracking corrections through the loop.
Aileron rolls are very slow and scale, with a touch of down elevator necessary as you transition through inverted flight. The outboard ailerons are probably responsible for this slower roll rate and increasing the throw on the ailerons would probably increase the roll rate. I honestly prefer the look of the more scale flight performance.
The full throttle, low altitude strafing run passes are great! Together, the growl of the geared 480 brushed motor and the large prop create a very pleasing sound when the plane roars by.
I quickly gained confidence in yanking and banking the Spitfire all over the sky. Its excellent stability and agility had me ripping around at relatively low altitude.
I used the included spare battery connector to make a ParkZone to Dean's Ultra battery adapter which allowed me to use my plentiful stock of 3-cell lithium polymer batteries in the Spitfire. The end results were longer flight times and a little more power from the slightly higher voltage of the lipos. I found that my lighter lipos made the Spitfire too tail heavy, but even so I was able to get the plane back on the ground without too much difficulty.
From the ParkZone manual: “If you are not experienced at flying one of HobbyZone’s 3-channel aircraft or any other 3-channel radio controlled aircraft, we recommend that you do not fly this aircraft. If you still choose to fly, you will need to seek the help of an experienced radio control pilot during your first several flights. This is especially important if you have not flown a 3-channel airplane with aileron control as one of the channels. Crash damage is not covered under the warranty!”
And I agree. I do not think a beginner stands a very good chance of getting the Spitfire up and then back down without difficulty. I am confident that the Spitfire would be an excellent first warbird or low wing airplane, however. It comes out of the box with a fairly conservative power system and control surface setup and if you have ample stick time on a beginner high wing trainer type airplane, you will be able to handle this one.
A big thanks to my flying bud T.Riley (blueskyrider), who is always willing to lend his steady hand and great eye(s) on the videocam!
From the Stryker to the Spitfire, ParkZone just keeps cranking out fun, ready-to-fly airplanes that make it easy to jump into the exciting world of RC. It is no lie that charging the battery almost takes longer than assembling the plane - in no time flat, you have the Spitfire in the air. The Spitfire looks great (there is no mistaking that trademark elliptical wing) and it is easy to fly. ParkZone deserves commendation for their rendition of this classic and well loved warbird.
Quite often when I am flying, observers will ask me that question that we all hear from time to time: "What do I have to do to get started in RC planes?" With all of the equipment and decisions and costs that a beginner faces when stepping into this hobby, ParkZone has greatly simplified the process. I’ve begun answering with one word: ParkZone.Last edited by Bajora; Apr 14, 2007 at 10:11 PM..
Excellent review... love this plane... but I killed her today after I mounted a 5-n-1 on the wing... she hated the extra drag ont he left wing... and I mean really hated as in fit to be tied hated...
video posted... along with a throw the prop video and a couple others of the Spit...
And welcome back to the addiction... I will be getting another PZ Spit if I can repair mine... simply an awesome plane!!
Very very good review there Jon- I see they have dragged the 'photo journalist' out of you to max effect!
Great write up, I have a PZ FW 190 NIB here, was going to strip out the gear from my trusty E-Flite '47, but time is always in too short supply..
she hated the extra drag ont he left wing
I almost tried that myself but figured it might be tough to pull off without a "counterbalance" on the other wing?
Did you have your 5in1 on the rudder and balance it out with a bit of weight forward?
Well, not that far back actually? More midships, trying to stay close to CG so as to not upset it too much? As it was, I did just that and the plane was a little tough to handle but even when tail heavy, I was very impressed at how forgiving this plane was!
Tnx Matt! You know, I do love writing, videoing and photographing this stuff almost as much as I do actually building and flying it?!
AW MAN! I FORGOT!
My apologies to my flying bud T.Riley (blueskyrider), who is always willing to lend his steady hand and great eye(s) on the videocam or whatever I need! I meant to mention you in the review and I forgot. Sorry for being such a toad TR!
Thanks a million times!
EDIT: Either I am lsoing my mind or my Editor inserted my thanks to TR into the review?! Probably the former!
The spit is truly the BEST RTF warbird on the market. One thing the that is good about the Spit is it doesn't roll left after launch, I have heard to many stories of bad launches with the Mustang and FW-190.
Awesome Video . For one reason or another i havent been able to have a camera person with when i fly with onboard video cameras. Very nice editing and the multable camera positions mixed in with the cam footage from the ground really blended well together.
The onboard footage was filmed with the 5 in 1, discussed in great detail in this thread:
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