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Old Nov 23, 2009, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaDesign View Post
Cool video. When the prop would windmill it sounds like a motor trying to restart.

Nice flying field! Do you get to use the lake for your seaplanes?

Dalton

Hello Dalton!

Glad you enjoyed the Video and yes, other members do use that lake for seaplanes and boats but, I personally don't as I have neither.
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Old Nov 23, 2009, 12:33 PM
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jamesppp's Avatar
Georgia, USA
Joined Jan 2008
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I no'ssssss thats rite!

hehe

Robert[/QUOTE]


Robert,

you have to come on and get some of this..Hopefully the weather will be nice this weekend
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Old Nov 23, 2009, 10:38 PM
YardGoat lives with mama
Joined Feb 2007
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Originally Posted by jamesppp View Post

Do I need to program in some aileron differential? I

Jimmy
No. None needed
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Old Nov 24, 2009, 01:39 PM
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Georgia, USA
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Thasnks.

The weather isnt pretty but maybe I can try this plane out after work.
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Old Nov 24, 2009, 01:54 PM
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USA, GA, Cochran
Joined Jun 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesppp View Post
Thasnks.

The weather isnt pretty but maybe I can try this plane out after work.
doesnt look like much wind here in cochran let us know how maiden goes
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Old Nov 24, 2009, 07:17 PM
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Georgia, USA
Joined Jan 2008
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The little plane flies great. We only had to slide the wing mounts about 1/8" to get it just right.

Im very pleased with the plane. The only problem I have is that I have so many different packs I want to use and it seems pretty critical for battery placement. Im going to set up a battery mount that will drop down enough to mount packs below the A frame of the X Gear then I can use light 1000mah packs when I want, then 1250's, 1350's, 1500's 1850's and 2200 mah
I dont have the room between the motor mount and the X gear unless I lower the mount..

I cant wait till I fly it in some good light. The covering colors are very visible when they catch a little light but it was very dark and gray this evening

I want to put the decal on the wing to differentiate top and bottom in flight but in the past I have always ended up with a lot bubbles under the clear background of sheet decals...any tips from the pros here??

EDIT: The decal looks good, at least for now..I used dish soap , a tad in some filtered water and sprayed it on the cack of the decal..so far no bubbles..Maybe it will look good in the mornng

Thanks for all the help from everyone. Im planning to put some serious time on this one after I finish eating myself into a come Thursday..The forecast is looking good for the long weekend

Manta1, I used to bird hunt in Cochran on the Attaway farm many years ago.

Jimmy
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Old Nov 25, 2009, 11:18 PM
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Georgia, USA
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This thing sure is fun. I got 4, 12 minute flights after work in the bestconditions yet. No bad habits at all with this little plane.
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Old Nov 26, 2009, 08:19 AM
Hodgehound # 3
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Adrian, GA
Joined Mar 2005
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I love mine. All of them!
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 11:36 PM
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Aug 2006
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Na

Moved to page 1
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 11:37 PM
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Aug 2006
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New Improved SSX Kit Build instructions (Wing)

Step-1: Glue SC1 and SC1-A together. Use SC1-B if you are building the SSX as a trainer. Trim the plywood wing joiner P2 for “dihedral” or “no dihedral”.

Step-2: Glue SC2-A to wing rib W2. Pay attention to orientation. The circle in SC2-A should be close to W2 and near the bottom. Use SC2-B if you are building the trainer. Remember the apposing wing half is a mirrored version. SC2-A/B should be square to W2

Step-3: Install but do not glue SC1 assembly. The small holes in SC1 and SC2-A/B should line-up.

Step-4: Install, do not glue W3 ribs.

Step-5: Glue TE-C pieces to TE-A. TE-A should be square to TE-C.

Step-6: Install, do not glue TE assembly to ribs. Parts are delicate at this point.

Step-7: Install, do not glue 3/16" square spar sticks. Tip! Look strait down the sticks to determine natural bow. Install sticks so bow is opposite opposing stick’s bow. This will help make the wing truer.

Step-8: Install, do not glue LE crutch.

Step-9: Install end rib W4. Square W4 to LE and TE then glue to TE and LE only.

Step-10: Caution! Do not install W1A upside down. Install W1A and B. The notch in W1A should be facing the bottom (Servo Side) of the wing. Square the LE and TE to W1 and Glue at TE and LE. Use a small scrap piece of 1/16" ply to shim the space between SC1 and SC2-A/B. The parts should be shimmed such that the plywood wing joiner P2 should slide into the wing. Use extra caution not to glue the shims or P2 in place. Use a tiny dot of medium CA to tack the spar sticks, SC1, SC2-A/B, W1 and W2 in place. Pull the shims out and test fit P2. Remove P2, place the wing on a flat surface so the spar is strait and continue tack gluing all joints. Lift the wing off your work surface and use thin CA to glue all joints. Take caution not to glue the wing to your work surface or your face. LOL

Step-11: Glue LE-B top and bottom in place. Keep trailing edge strait while gluing with thin CA. Tip! Scotch Tape and Packing tape are great for keeping the parts from gluing to the work surface.

Step-12: Glue 1/8” X ¼” stringers and 3/16” square leading edge as shown.

Step-13: Glue 1/16” sheeting as shown. Take note of servo wire hole location in bottom sheeting.

Step-14: Glue wing hinge sockets in place. Be sure to align the center markings with the edge of TE-A. Sand hinge sockets flush with TE-B on both top and bottom of wing.

Step-15: Glue with medium CA, WT3, WT6, WT9, WT10, WT11 and hinge block as show. Slot for hinge should face the trailing edge of wingtip.

Step-16: Install, do not glue WT1 and WT2.

Step-17: Glue wingtip assembly to W4 wing tip. Be sure the trailing edge is strait with the main wing trailing edge.

Step-18: Glue wingtip stiffeners WT4, WT5 and WT7 in place.

Step-19: Round-off leading edge and tip of wing. Leave trailing edge flat but sand flush TE-A and TE-B.

Step-20: Sand 3/16 Square leading edge piece flush with Part LE so that plywood part P1 sits flat.

Step-21: Glue P1 in place.

Step-22: Build two aileron servo blocks from parts P3 and P5. At this time, go ahead and complete the other wing half. Be sure to make the opposite half a mirrored image of the first half.

Step-23: Install the servo block as show. Sand as much of the laser burn as possible without distorting the shape of the parts. Sand sheeting and other parts flush with W1 so when the two wing halves are brought together, the left and right W1 ribs join together flush. Be careful not to over sand. Cover the wing halves with light model covering before joining them permanently. Do not completely cover the side of the W1 center rib.

Step-24: Glue P2 and P4 in place on one half. Use slow drying glue on P2 such as epoxy. You only need enough glue to attach P2 to the top and bottom spar sticks. Apply glue to P2 and W1. Now join the two wing halves. Note the picture shows an uncovered wing. Do not join the two wing halves until they are covered. You may also install covered ailerons, servos and linkage before this step is you so choose.

Step-25: Cut from 3/16 square sticks: (2) 19-1/2” (1) 4-1/2”, (2) 4”, (6) 3-3/4”, (2) 3-1/4”, (8) 2-1/2” (2) 2-1/4” and set aside. Be sure to cut longest to shortest. Use the scraps as much as possible. Cut (24) aileron stiffeners by using part A1 or A2 as a cutting guide.

Step-26: Build two aileron frames from 19-1/2” cut stick (See Step-25), A1, A2 and pre cut aileron leading edge pieces. Note hinge slots are pre cut and need to be positioned on the edge of the aileron leading edge. Be sure to align the hinge slots on the two leading edge pieces. Be sure to use a strait edge such as a ruler to keep the leading edge strait while building.

Step-27: Glue the stiffeners into the aileron frame. Exact position of stiffeners is not critical as long as they do not block hinge slots. Half of the stiffeners can be omitted for a lighter model.

Step-28: Bevel the leading edge of the ailerons to a blunt point. Round-off the trailing and side edges. Sand smooth and cover with light model covering.

Step-29: Cut covering at hinge slots on the wing and ailerons and insert CA hinges. Use a pin pushed through the center of the hinge to keep it from pushing all the way through while installing the ailerons (See picture 29A). Check that the aileron moves freely. Soak the hinge with thin CA glue. The hinge style and size supplied with this kit may vary. It may be necessary to make the hinge slots deeper.

Step-30: Assemble the rear wing saddle from parts P10, P8, P7 and P9. Bend P7 along the dotted line so it bends over P9. When building the trainer kit use P9T in place of P9. P10 will be bent to conform to the dihedral of the wing. It is also necessary to shim the mount with 1/8” ply parts P16 between P10 and the wing when building the trainer version. Be sure to remove the covering where the saddle is glued to the wing.

Step-31: Assemble the front wing saddle parts P11 in a stack. Glue the assembly to the front of P1. If you are building the trainer, it is necessary to trim P11 at the dotted line before gluing the stack together. You also need to shim P11 1/8” using P15 for the trainer version only.

This completes the wing construction.


******
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 11:37 PM
jkarpy's Avatar
USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Aug 2006
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New Improved SSX Kit (Tail)

Stab assembly (Step 25 must be completed before proceeding)

Step-32: Assemble the tail mount as shown glue together with CA and cover if desired. The vertical and horizontal stabs are assembled on a flat surface. Be sure to protect the surface from glue. A 1:1 scale drawing is provided to use as a template. 3/16” square sticks for the stabs were cut in step 25. Note that S3 is a Stack made up of S3A and S3B. The plywood piece S3A needs to be on the bottom of the horizontal stab. Bevel the leading edge of the rudder and elevator. Round-off all other edges with the exception of base of the vertical stab. Cover the stab with light model covering. Hinge using same method as in step 29.

Step-33: Trim the covering away from the top center of the horizontal stab where the tail mount will be glued. Insert the tail mount into the slots on the horizontal stab and secure with thin CA glue. Trim the covering from the vertical stab tab insert it into the top of the tail mount and square it to the horizontal stab. Secure the vertical stab with thin CA.
The SSX tail section is designed to be adjustable. The tail mount assembly has 3 P12 formers. The fuselage tube needs only to pass through the first 2 P12 formers. This allows the end of the fuse to be positioned anywhere between the second and third P12 formers.


This completes Stab assembly
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 11:37 PM
jkarpy's Avatar
USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Aug 2006
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New Improved SSX Kit (Fuselage assembly)

Fuselage Assembly (not included in “short kit”)
Refer to Drawing 1 for details on fuselage assembly. Drawing 1 is scaled so that it can be accurately measured to determine fuselage component locations. ¼” on the drawing will actually be 1” on the model. Wait till the model is balanced to screw the wing mounts and tail section in place. Refer to X-Gear instruction sheet for assembly of X-Gear. Temporarily mount all components including the battery, prop, control horns and wheels. Install linkage to ailerons and stab but leave the stab push rods long so you can adjust the length of the tail. Temporarily mount the wing and stab as well. Balance the model by supporting the model on your finger tips at the CG location. Do NOT add weight to balance the aircraft. Move the wing back if the model is tail heavy or forward if it is nose heavy. Ultimately you want the length between the wing and tail to be maximized. More advanced pilots can move the CG further back for more performance. Once you have the CG set go ahead and secure all the hardware and complete the linkage.



Use the existing GWS parts from your GWS Slow Stick™ or use the parts from our X-Fuse set.
Use CA glue to attach fuselage joiner to one end of the shorter fuselage stick (tail end).
Slide one end of the longer fuselage stick into the joiner and attach with provided screw. Cut excess off end of screw and file down sharp edges. See image below:


Slide the push rod guide onto the tail end of the fuselage. Then slide the rear wing saddle mount onto the front end of the fuselage, approximately 15 ½” down the stick. DO NOT SCREW IN YET.

Slide the two servo mounts down about an inch from the rear wing saddle mount. Now slide the front wing saddle mount, approximately 5 ½” down from the front.

Slide the battery mount, onto the fuselage, approximately 1” – ½” from the front. DO NOT glue or screw in any of these plastic parts yet, as they are in temporary positions. See drawing 1 for details:

Feed the long wire push rod through the push rod guide and through the guide holes in the rear wing saddle, so that the “Z-bend” is at the tail section. Repeat on both sides.

Install the servos, as per servo manufacturer instructions, using servo manufacturer-provided hardware. DO NOT SCREW any of the parts in yet. See picture below:



Final Assembly

Attach the “Z-bend” end of the long control rods into the middle hole of each one of the tail section control horns. Feed the control rods through the rod guides on the fuselage and then slide the tail section on to the fuselage. See drawing 1 for details:

Drill two small holes on the bottom front and center of the horizontal stabilizer. Use the #2 ½” screws to fasten the fuselage to the tail assembly. Holes should be about 3/8” from leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer and spaced 1” Do not damage the wood when tightening. Use provided #2 washers. See drawing 1 for details:

If using your existing GWS fuselage this step would be necessary. Installing Rubber Band Post Extenders: One minor design flaw in the original Slow Stick is that the rubber band posts are too short. Using 5/32 aluminum tubing, cut 4 3/8” long pieces. (Some kits may come with these already cut). Use thick CA glue and glue them to the existing rubber band posts of the original Slow Stick wing saddles. Make sure you do not leave sharp edges that can cut the rubber bands. I like to fill the tube with thick CA and leave a bead at the top of the tube. If you do not have a tubing cutter, you can use an X-acto knife in a rolling action to cut the tubing. Our new X-Fuse eliminates the need for rubber band post extenders.
Main Wing Decal (not included in “short kit”)
1. Cut excess material from decal before removing the backing.
2. Remove the protective backing to expose the adhesive.
3. Add about 3 drops of dish soap to 2 pints of clean water. Put it in a spray bottle and spray the back of the decal.
4. Slide the decal into position and squeegee the excess water from under the decal.
5. Allow the decal to dry overnight.
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 11:38 PM
jkarpy's Avatar
USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Aug 2006
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New Improved SSX Kit (Radio)

Control Throws
Most advanced modelers will want every bit of control they can squeeze from this model. Advanced pilots will set all throws to maximum and use rates where appropriate. Beginners should set controls to 50% of the maximum possible or 25 degrees for ailerons and elevator and max for rudder.

First flight: Be sure all controls are set correctly. Set low rates to about 50%. Take-off should be at half throttle with recommended power plant. Climb to a higher altitude and adjust trims as needed. You should find that this aircraft has a very low stall rate and is capable of most acrobatics. Happy flying!


Enjoy Your New Millennium R/C
Slow Stick X or X-Trainer!
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Old Dec 05, 2009, 11:38 PM
jkarpy's Avatar
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New Improved SSX Kit (Reserved)

Reserved
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Old Dec 06, 2009, 04:43 PM
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Georgia, USA
Joined Jan 2008
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Looks like you did a great job with the re design. I like the precut hinge slots..Even with the jig and ca hinge cutter I always mamanage to dink it up.

James, Could you share the water rudder setup I see on some of the planes in the pics? Im going to set up my SSX Trainer on floats for spring and if I like it as much as I think i will Im just going to leave it as a float plane.

Thanks
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