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Old May 05, 2007, 04:58 PM
"Cracking Toast Grommit!"
metalbuggy's Avatar
Sanford, NC
Joined Feb 2005
679 Posts
Thank you very much Mr.Lin!

I'll stop with the 'eat your hat' stuff.

Thumbs-up to GWS!
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Old May 06, 2007, 06:46 AM
Registered User
Singapore
Joined Mar 2007
162 Posts
With the improved in the quality in the foam used by GWS.. is there a "real" need to glass the plane ?

Thanks
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Old May 06, 2007, 10:07 AM
Unrepentant Carnivore
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Brandon, Fl
Joined Mar 2005
2,500 Posts
Glassing serves two purposes - strength and making a nice surface. The newer models are significantly stronger than the older ones especially around the wing saddle. And the new model's foam has tighter cells making a smoother surface. So I guess there is no "need" to glass anymore, but folks will to make a superior model. I'll still be top coating mine with a WPBU spray to harden the surface against incidental hanger rash. And I may try to prep the surface with a WPBU and talc mixture to fill in any foam pores.

Jim
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Old May 06, 2007, 11:51 AM
Confused? Who, me?
Roger Lombard's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, North York
Joined Jan 2005
4,790 Posts
I've never glassed any of my GWS models, nor ever felt the need to, but I buy Jim's point about coatings to reduct hangar rash and since Molders drew my attention to it I've been using Johnsons Klear which is a "brush on" polycrylic floor wax, sold in the US as "Future" and I find that works very well. Puts on a pretty hard satin finish but adds little weight. I find that two coats work best one before decals and if you're using pastels or any other "weathering" medium before that too and then a final coat to seal everything up. I haven't tried it as a"fixer" for inkjet printed decals but it might work there also. Little article about it here http://armorama.co.uk/modules.php?op...icle&artid=227
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Old May 06, 2007, 12:23 PM
Unrepentant Carnivore
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Brandon, Fl
Joined Mar 2005
2,500 Posts
Roger

Thanks! Another technique. I Googled "Future Floor Wax" and found several articles form modelers on the stuff. I now have a burning desire to go to the store and try it out.

Jim
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Old May 06, 2007, 08:55 PM
Registered User
Singapore
Joined Mar 2007
162 Posts
Thanks for your reply James and Roger.

Well, I managed to get hold of minwax. Tried it on some light fabric cloth ( Organza ) . It sticks really well. However, the fabric does not seem to add much strength.

I have to get some FG then.

Good luck to me

Thanks again !
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Old May 06, 2007, 08:56 PM
Registered User
Singapore
Joined Mar 2007
162 Posts
The fabric I used was this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organza

http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/s...al/organza.htm
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Old May 07, 2007, 08:31 AM
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Bourg-en-Bresse, FRANCE
Joined Mar 2005
407 Posts
Hello
where can we find a pilot for our GWS FW190???
thanks,
sebsoupe
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Old May 07, 2007, 12:25 PM
Aloft Hobbies
Rotozuk's Avatar
United States, CA, Novato
Joined Sep 2003
5,669 Posts
Glassing..

The one down side to the GWS foam planes is that they are very easy to dent. These dents accumulate to make a rather shabby looking plane.

My E-starter is only a few weeks old, but the foam around the battery tray is pretty ugly. Even with a coating of water based clear coat.

The other issue with them is cleaning.. I fly off a grass field, and the grass will make a lovely mess of the bare foam.

So with these issues in mind, I have been debating the glassing process on my 190. I expect to have the plane for a long time, so why not spend a little more time to make her nicer?

My current thought is to only glass the bottom of the wing and fuse and a bit around the battery hatch, and just clear coat the rest. I picked up the lightest weight glass at the LHS, but it is 2 oz.. So don't want to glass the whole thing with this.

-Wayne
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Old May 07, 2007, 12:32 PM
Aloft Hobbies
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United States, CA, Novato
Joined Sep 2003
5,669 Posts
GWS glue..

On another subject. I have used nothing but the GWS glue on this build. I am having issues with very slow cure times! I used it as a contact glue when joining the wings. It grabbed pretty well when I first touched them together, but even after 3 days it still dribbles fresh glue out of the joint. It is finally strong though.

I also used the glue for the spar. I highly recommend you use an epoxy for this joint. Talking to another builder that also used the GWS glue on the spar he reports the same issues. It will not cure, and keeps puking out more glue from the ends of the tubes, center section, and sometimes middle of the wing. I did not think I put too much glue in either! (I also do not recommend Sumo or Gorilla for the spars as the foaming tends to make an ugly joint that can be tough to clean up.)

The GWS glue seems to work best on smaller joints.

I do like the GWS glue, but I have learned a little more about its use.

-Wayne
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Old May 07, 2007, 12:58 PM
The art of Crashing
Joined Dec 2006
590 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotozuk
The one down side to the GWS foam planes is that they are very easy to dent. These dents accumulate to make a rather shabby looking plane.

My E-starter is only a few weeks old, but the foam around the battery tray is pretty ugly. Even with a coating of water based clear coat.

The other issue with them is cleaning.. I fly off a grass field, and the grass will make a lovely mess of the bare foam.

So with these issues in mind, I have been debating the glassing process on my 190. I expect to have the plane for a long time, so why not spend a little more time to make her nicer?

My current thought is to only glass the bottom of the wing and fuse and a bit around the battery hatch, and just clear coat the rest. I picked up the lightest weight glass at the LHS, but it is 2 oz.. So don't want to glass the whole thing with this.

-Wayne
2oz. is pretty heavy. I would have your LHS special order some .75oz or go online and order some. I glass the majoirity of my planes, for the finish and durability. With practice, you can get your planes to come in at weight most of the time. Or just go down in battery size. I think the trade-off is worth it.
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Old May 07, 2007, 03:42 PM
Pusher jets rule!
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Mesa, AZ
Joined Jan 2006
17,212 Posts
Wayne,

GWS glue is a contact cement. In order for it to set up properly, you need to apply glue to the surface, and let it air dry for about 5-10 minutes. What I typically do is put a generous amount of glue on one side, press the parts together briefly, then set them aside for 10 minutes. Once the glue feels "tacky", it's ready to go. A word of caution, you only get one shot to line the parts up correctly. If you can still move the parts around after assembly, then you need to pull them apart and let the glue set up a few more minutes.

I use GWS glue as much as possible. It's free (comes with the kit), and I have several tubes lying around (I only open a new tube when I finish one off, so I have several tubes from my many GWS kits). I generally only use epoxy on the spars and control horns.

Oh, and as The Bandit said, 2oz cloth is way too heavy. Try finding some in the .5 - .75oz range.

Pat
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Old May 07, 2007, 04:16 PM
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Bourg-en-Bresse, FRANCE
Joined Mar 2005
407 Posts
Hello!
paint is not dry yet ...
Bye,
sebsoupe
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Old May 07, 2007, 09:26 PM
Registered User
Singapore
Joined Mar 2007
162 Posts
Any online shop to get the FG ?
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Old May 08, 2007, 03:34 AM
Houng-wen Lin
GWS4CEO's Avatar
Shijr, Taiwan. DungGwan, China. City of Industry, California.
Joined Sep 2001
19,445 Posts
One of Taiwan's flyer posted his FW-190 cowling melt like this:
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