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Old Feb 15, 2012, 04:11 AM
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yorkshire UK
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I am well past the "dumb thumbs" stage and the only time I have crashed in the past few years is when something goes wrong and brown outs due to servos has been the issue.
Having said that when my mate first got into planes after flying helis he got me to take his little 800mm fms plane up and I crashed that due to him changing the ailerons round the oposite way( after I had set it all up the night b4 for him he decided that he knew better then me lol but did not tell me he'd done it lol and although I did a pre flight check did not notice they were going the wrong way).
Also he has has the odd incident with futaba by not selecting the right model on tx to match the model he was flying and unlike spektrum which has "model match" he was still able to "try" and fly his models. Luckily he has been able to get away with it so far but I think "model match" is a great facility and dont understand why all 2.4 systems dont have it.
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 04:05 PM
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Wow, quite an interesting discussion here. My first radio was a cheap 72mhz from HarborFreight P-51 RTF. I have never got that plane flying beyond 6 feet or 30 yards away. It always flew straight after hand-lunch and suddenly headed to the ground. I did some searches on the internet and blamed it on "glitch"..so I can tell my wife I need a better one. Now I know that "tip stall" might be the actual cause.

Back then there were tons of cheap, but good ARFs on ebay. I bought only 17 with a average price around $35! I definitively do not want to put a $65 Futaba rx in them even though my brother strongly suggested me to do so; he only have 3 planes versus mine of 17! So I bought the FlySky 9x for under $60 "shipping included" and ten FlySky 6ch rx for $8.99 each. So far they fit my need perfectly. I do look at the FrSky module & RX closely if I need an upgrade someday.

Back to the electronic selection on the 190. Last night I found the cowl from the balsa J3 I am working on is too short for the 3542. So I have to use the 3536-910 for the Cub. Now my choices are down to 3536-1400, 3542-800 and 3542-1250. I measured these 3542s are 30g heavier than the 3536. I am thinking if the added power (100W) can overcome the added weight? I thought 3536 is already an overkill. I do have a Turnigy 3530-1100 and a 2830-850 in my tool box, but their outputs are far less than advertised.

So my next question is, how many of you found the published prop test results hold true in real life? My finding are:

sk3536-1400 with 10x6 MasterScrew- 37A pulling 50oz. similar to the results on Bungymania.com

CDROM 2409-1600 and 2409-1200- HURC's number is right on the money!

Turnigy 3530 with EMP11x5.5- 24A pulling 36oz, a little less than expected but okey, and the power faded very soon. By the way these EMP props are almost impossible to balance..

Turnigy 2830-850 with GWS1060- peaked at 7A pulling 16oz, compared to 11A/24oz from HURC. I have to go WOT all the way on my GWS EPO Zero- not fun . Any idea of why so??

The last, I am assuming the 3542 will make the 190 significantly nose heavy. I do have some metal geared 9G servos can be used for the tail feathers. Will this again an overkill? Can't wait to receive my retracts so I can set the ball park of the AUW, but most likely it will be in the mid 30oz range..Hopefully the 190 can handle that much.
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 04:22 PM
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Marysville, WA
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If I remember right, I used a Turnigy 3530-1100 with a 10x7 prop on mine. Was plenty fast enough. Would pull vertical for as high as I wanted to fly it. My 190 balanced well with that motor.

As far as "Spektrum" receivers being prone to brownouts or shut downs they are no more prone to shutdown than any other digital receiver. The most common reason any 2.4ghz receiver fails is due to low power. If you try to run 4 (or more) HXT900's with a linear BEC (most common BEC found on speed controllers) with a 3 cell lipo your just asking for trouble with any digital receiver. Granted there was an early batch of Spektrum receivers that were bad from the factory, but that's another story.

ALWAYS test your receivers power before flying. An easy preflight test is to simply gyrate all controls to max throws for 15-20 seconds. If the receiver resets, shuts down, or "browns out" you know you need an external switching BEC or UBEC. Simple.

Don't think for a moment that if you are using brand other than Spektrum you're safe. All digital receivers will shut down if starved for power. That's a fact.

Always range check and power check any new plane before flying. If you don't check the performance of your electronics before you fly and your plane crashes due to range or power failures don't blame the receiver, blame the idiot that failed to do pre-maiden flight checks.
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 04:32 PM
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One more thing--- How do you determine the distance between your plane and you and other obstacles around your flying field?

I sneaked out this morning to take advantage of the warm weather. I could't go to the school yard today so I went to a soccer field, which is small and surrounded by trees and light poles. I have flown at this place once and had no issue there. First the F4U went up for about 7 mins and a tree suddenly jumped out and grabbed it...fine, people made mistakes.. Then my Zero went up for about 3 mins and then hit directly on a light pole across the field like a dart! No damage to the plane except a broken prop. But man, my wife laughed so loud and suggested I should buy a lottery. The rest 3 flights with the Spit went well, I just kept it inside 2/3 of the field..no high speed/low pass at all... no fun.

Please don't tell me I need glasses.. I had laser surgery on my eyes... Just how do you handle it?
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 04:35 PM
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Fly above obstacles...not between them.
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 07:39 PM
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If you fly past an obstacle your plane is either closer or further away from it. If your plane hits an obstacle you know you've judged the distance perfectly.

My pops used to say, "if there is a tree near the flying field, I'll hit it. If they cut that tree down, I'll end up hitting the stump."
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 03:23 AM
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yorkshire UK
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Originally Posted by Vince_TT View Post
One more thing--- How do you determine the distance between your plane and you and other obstacles around your flying field?

I sneaked out this morning to take advantage of the warm weather. I could't go to the school yard today so I went to a soccer field, which is small and surrounded by trees and light poles. I have flown at this place once and had no issue there. First the F4U went up for about 7 mins and a tree suddenly jumped out and grabbed it...fine, people made mistakes.. Then my Zero went up for about 3 mins and then hit directly on a light pole across the field like a dart! No damage to the plane except a broken prop. But man, my wife laughed so loud and suggested I should buy a lottery. The rest 3 flights with the Spit went well, I just kept it inside 2/3 of the field..no high speed/low pass at all... no fun.

Please don't tell me I need glasses.. I had laser surgery on my eyes... Just how do you handle it?
Haha, it's a tricky one, but the main points would be
1 fly above objects if posible
2 low passes can still be done but keep objects to either side as you dive down then trying to judge when to dive down over an object and plan your path b4 you fly it.
3 try to get a mental picture of the safe areas to fly in and in particular plan a landing path and stick to them.
If you are still in trouble your options are
1 get a slower plane
2 find a bigger area to fly in
3 get another eye test!!
Good luck and happy flying!
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Haha, it's a tricky one, but the main points would be
3 get another eye test!!
Good luck and happy flying!
After spending an hour trying to re-weld and make a reverse 9g servo...I do need another eye test!!

Most of the open field in my neighborhood, including the RC clubs, do not have a paved runway. So I ended up flying off the basketball court or the soccer field with artificial grass. To land into the wind I have to fly pass the trees, light poles and fences. That's why I would only fly my GWS generation I warbirds there; I can comfortably bleed down the speed for a steep approach on those light and small planes.

My previous copy-cat 190 (34oz AWU) needed a long distance to land even with dead stick drill. Wondering how the heavier one may end up. Do you think full flops work better than spit flaps? I know the real 190 has spit flaps, but I am not a historian sticking to the authentic scheme. Never had experience on spit flaps. I heard they works more like a air break. Anyone can comment?
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by haiduk View Post
My pops used to say, "if there is a tree near the flying field, I'll hit it. If they cut that tree down, I'll end up hitting the stump."
Hey, I even hit the flagpole once. What is the odd for that on a 7.5 acre school yard ?
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 12:16 PM
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yorkshire UK
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Originally Posted by Vince_TT View Post
After spending an hour trying to re-weld and make a reverse 9g servo...I do need another eye test!!

Most of the open field in my neighborhood, including the RC clubs, do not have a paved runway. So I ended up flying off the basketball court or the soccer field with artificial grass. To land into the wind I have to fly pass the trees, light poles and fences. That's why I would only fly my GWS generation I warbirds there; I can comfortably bleed down the speed for a steep approach on those light and small planes.

My previous copy-cat 190 (34oz AWU) needed a long distance to land even with dead stick drill. Wondering how the heavier one may end up. Do you think full flops work better than spit flaps? I know the real 190 has spit flaps, but I am not a historian sticking to the authentic scheme. Never had experience on spit flaps. I heard they works more like a air break. Anyone can comment?
I think either will work, but split flaps require more work.
My flaps definitely allow a much reduced flying speed and steeper aproach.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Hey, I even hit the flagpole once. What is the odd for that on a 7.5 acre school yard ?
I could do it but not if I was trying!

Haiduk your post was hilarious and i feel your Dad's pain. I swear I think its mental but to me I have to get really used to a place before I'm confortable with it. My depth perception is so-so and if there is an obstacle in the area, I will find it. Thats wny I love wide open spaces which are hard to find here. I need to move to the salt flats where they do thos land speed record attempts.

Regards,
Alan
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 11:13 AM
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I could do it but not if I was trying!

Haiduk your post was hilarious and i feel your Dad's pain. I swear I think its mental but to me I have to get really used to a place before I'm confortable with it. My depth perception is so-so and if there is an obstacle in the area, I will find it. Thats wny I love wide open spaces which are hard to find here. I need to move to the salt flats where they do thos land speed record attempts.

Regards,
Alan
Yeah I usually like to fly from the same spot on the field so I know where everything is without having to think about it.
When my daughter was younger I used to have a couple of silverlit x twin biplanes which was made from epp and had props behind wings and was pretty much indestructible, I would take her round the parks and while she was playing on slides, climbing frames etc my wife and I would fly these around having races to and around lamp posts, trees, climbing frames etc with no risk of doing any damage to either plane or people as they were so small and light and bouncy!
A lot of fun and good for your depth perception training lol.
However with the proper rc planes you really need a big open space with no obstacles esprcially when you are learning!
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 11:56 AM
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However with the proper rc planes you really need a big open space with no obstacles esprcially when you are learning!
I learned a lot from putting puzzle back after my crash. I told my wife that I might not be a good RC pilot in my life but I am one hack of repairer!

Weather looks like to be fine tomorrow, I plan to maiden another two planes. If I don't break them, I can start building the 190 next week!
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 06:05 PM
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I learned a lot from putting puzzle back after my crash. I told my wife that I might not be a good RC pilot in my life but I am one hack of repairer!

Weather looks like to be fine tomorrow, I plan to maiden another two planes. If I don't break them, I can start building the 190 next week!
My first GWS model was a Zero and it was repaired from a jigsaw puzzle at least five times. In the end the nose had more epoxy that foam. But even then it remained a good flier.

Ken
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Old Feb 18, 2012, 09:05 AM
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United States, NE, Hebron
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i learned to fly fast with a gws mustang or basicaly learned to fly electrics.

it had a carbon spar as do all my gws birds. the plane had a 1100 kv hacker motor in it weighed only 20 oz and i put a 8x8 on it. it flew great when i could get it off the ground. this was my first brusheles electric plane and it had no landing gear. so on take off i did not no what i was doing. i would base ball throw it and then start the motor. after 2 crashes and more glue i finaly got the plane into the air using the baseball throw. the plane was thrown pithched up then it would almost hit the ground before i got to the throttle just skimming the ground.

this idea came from me just tossing my old brushed electric gliders that are all floaters.

anyways the plane flew awsome even after the 2 crashes on take off. she was fast i would guess 70 ish. i flew her many times and by doing so figuring out to give some throttle on take off but still did not give her near enough.

after flying her a lot i decided to put a 7x10 gas prop on her. now this took a lot more speed to get her going on take off so she crashed a few more times. the nose was becoming epoxy in stead of foam like ken was saying with his zero. on about the 4th try i finaly got this plane into the sky. she only weighed 22 oz by now so still light. and the belly skoop was gone for landings help saved the prop and better areodynamics.

i forgot to mention this was the silver addition mustang. i figured on launch i would get her high and retrim her giving me room for error. only problem was upwind was into the sun with a white cloud backdrop and with this new prop i was up to 500 feet in secounds. i learned my secound lesson silver sucks. as i was trying to figure out which way the plane was going it got further away. not thinking about anything as i was shook baddddly.. i finaly figured out which way she was flying and that direction was toward the ground. i pulled up and lucily the plane came up. the plane was going full throttle down wind now as i was so shoook that all i could think of was to bring her back. i began my turn as the plane was at just above eye level about 1/2 mile away yep i would guess a half a mile so she was basicaly a dot but a shiny one at that. as i turned i had to cross infront of some trees well at least i thought in front of. turns out i crossed right into the trees.

i drove over to the tree wich was 5/8 of a mile away, the wing was still in the tree and the fuse was lying on the ground suprisingly mostly intacked. i rebuilt the plane and put the 8x8 back on her and flew her a lot ending her demise practicing inverted passes at or below eye level.

now you are thinking man someone could of got hurt and you are probably right. first thing though i was flying in a feild in nebraska were there wasnt anyone that close. i learned a lot from this and have made changes to how i fly since. first no silver small aircrft without any other color. secound i trim planes at half throttle or whatever just gets them flying just flat. and finaly third if i loose any direction of my plane i kill throttle. let me restate this kill throttle. i usally pulled up on the stik with throttle off if the plane goes up i am up right if it goes down i am in trouble. lol but at least its controlable.

nock on wood but i havent had this trouble since this epeisode becuase of the steps i do to keep it from hapening again.

lesson well learned

just my thoughts

andrew K
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