I just checked my numbers this morning. With a EVO 2500mah 3s battery (25C) I got 134 watts with 11 amps at 1/2 throttle and 362 watts with 34.4 amps at full throttle.

For the most part I just fly around at 1/2 throttle or less.

Speedracer, I think your Turnigy 35-30/1100kv motor should be fine. Maybe your over propping the motor. Try a APC 10 x 7 slow flyer prop. What is the C rating and capacity for your battery?

Kevin.

Originally Posted by RCDad

I just checked my numbers this morning. With a EVO 2500mah 3s battery (25C) I got 134 watts with 11 amps at 1/2 throttle and 362 watts with 34.4 amps at full throttle.

For the most part I just fly around at 1/2 throttle or less.

Speedracer, I think your Turnigy 35-30/1100kv motor should be fine. Maybe your over propping the motor. Try a APC 10 x 7 slow flyer prop. What is the C rating and capacity for your battery?

Kevin.

It is a 20C 2200mah pack.

Ken, Thank you for all your help. I forgot the suggestions you had for props back on page 101. I will be making a stop at my LHS today for some props.

It is the only thing keeping me from my maiden, and thank you also RCdad for the help and info I will pick up an APC 10x7 also.

i have looked at this motor a lot and for flight time and speed the 9x6 apc should be very good. according to motorcalc.

Well after many dif size props and not being able to get over 150W I will remove this motor form the plane and throw it in my junk pile. I will be staying away from turnigy.

thats to bad.. thats the price we pay for buying cheap motors. i would not however disregard turnigy just cause you got a bad one. remember you can buy 2-3 of these at the price of a name brand one. with turnigy you are paying for quanity not quality as far as assembly is concerned, i do think they have done there homework though in the engineering of these motors as they are of good quality parts and well desined, just rashly put togather. i hope you dont totally dismay turnigy because of one motor as i have had no problems yet but am sure i will. thats just the odds.. good luck with whatever you buy.. later andrew k.

Originally Posted by 57sailplane

thats to bad.. thats the price we pay for buying cheap motors. i would not however disregard turnigy just cause you got a bad one. remember you can buy 2-3 of these at the price of a name brand one. with turnigy you are paying for quanity not quality as far as assembly is concerned, i do think they have done there homework though in the engineering of these motors as they are of good quality parts and well desined, just rashly put togather. i hope you dont totally dismay turnigy because of one motor as i have had no problems yet but am sure i will. thats just the odds.. good luck with whatever you buy.. later andrew k.

I totally dismantled the motor to see if maybe a bearing went bad but everything seemed smooth. Re-assembled it and nothing changed. I think the best I could get out of it was 145W@12A on a 10x7 APC-SF prop. The weight of the plane is about 24oz with batt(according to my non digital food scale). I have 2 suppo motors, one on a funjet I still havent maidened yet and the other on my pusher GWS F-15. The 15 flies very well with it and am looking towards that but bigger for my 190.

I bought the Turnigy at E-Fest before I moved to NC, paid $40 for it.
I even tried Y harnessing 2 flightpower 25c 3s 1200mah packs to it and still got the same #'s

Maybe I'll use it for a weed whacker.

Chris.

Thought I'd post this picture. I may have earlier in this thread but can't remember.

This is a simple tail wheel mod. Looks more scale and is much more robust then stock.

Hope this might be of help to others --Stacker

Originally Posted by stacker

Thought I'd post this picture. I may have earlier in this thread but can't remember.

This is a simple tail wheel mod. Looks more scale and is much more robust then stock.

Hope this might be of help to others --Stacker

Very nice, and it probably results in tighter turns?

matt

Matt,
Maybe just a little tighter turn, mostly looks and strength though.

Take care--Stacker

Originally Posted by stacker

Thought I'd post this picture. I may have earlier in this thread but can't remember.

This is a simple tail wheel mod. Looks more scale and is much more robust then stock.

Hope this might be of help to others --Stacker

Do you have details on how you set it up or parts you used?

Hack73,
Sorry just the picture. Plastic arm comes with kit as an extra part. Just need to bend the control arm and hook into the rudder horn. I believe the wood block was just a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" x 1 1/2". Hardest part is prob. bending the wheel leg as you have to put a bend to lock the arm in place. Same way the GWS A-10 nose wheel was done.

Take care -- Stacker

Originally Posted by kensp

Sorry but I do not have video of the model flying with this set up.

Ken

Ken where did you find the GWS 190 in stock in Australia? Or do you know a OS store that will ship here at reasonable cost. Lastly is yours EPS or EPO?

Originally Posted by AlouetteIII

Ken where did you find the GWS 190 in stock in Australia? Or do you know a OS store that will ship here at reasonable cost. Lastly is yours EPS or EPO?

My GWS-190 is one of the first 10 out of the factory and was purchased as an Early bird Kit. It is an EPS kit but my next one will be an EPO kit. I have an EPO GWS-40 and an EPO GWS T-6 and have found that both these models are more durable than EPS kits.

Plane Crazy has one EPS GWS-190 listed as in stock at this moment.

Ken

Originally Posted by kensp

My GWS-190 is one of the first 10 out of the factory and was purchased as an Early bird Kit. It is an EPS kit but my next one will be an EPO kit. I have an EPO GWS-40 and an EPO GWS T-6 and have found that both these models are more durable than EPS kits.

Plane Crazy has one EPS GWS-190 listed as in stock at this moment.

Ken

Thanks Ken. I will try to find the EPO version instock somewhere who ships to AU.

Originally Posted by stacker

Hack73,
Sorry just the picture. Plastic arm comes with kit as an extra part. Just need to bend the control arm and hook into the rudder horn. I believe the wood block was just a piece of 1/4" x 1/4" x 1 1/2". Hardest part is prob. bending the wheel leg as you have to put a bend to lock the arm in place. Same way the GWS A-10 nose wheel was done.

Take care -- Stacker

How does the wheel attach to the wood?