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Old Feb 12, 2007, 10:42 AM
MSQ
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Joined Feb 2007
19 Posts
Help!
how to make carbon fiber wing tube

i would like to know how i can make the carbon fiber wing tube for gas airplanes i have some carbon fiber of course i can buy these tubes online but i love to built itmyself kindly help me in making the wing tube

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MSQ
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 11:01 AM
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Punta Gorda, FL
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Which kind of carbon tube? Joiner carbon tube between the wing panels? Receiver carbon tube within one wing panel (about half of the joiner length)?
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 11:24 AM
MSQ
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thank you for your response i wold like to make the wing tube of 1.5" * 36" for my gas airplanes to join the two wing pannels
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 12:01 PM
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Punta Gorda, FL
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Why 1.5" diameter? It is very expensive. A smaller tube will do with its strength, stiffness, with smaller $ and smaller weight.
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 12:13 PM
MSQ
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okay that fine but i would like to know the basic to make the tube the compleat procedure any website or article kindly give me there details

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MSQ
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 12:48 PM
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Punta Gorda, FL
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For the process see:
http://www.badger.rchomepage.com/rollboom.html
You need a nontapered mandrel. I would use a foam mandrel. After the epoxy is cured, I would remove the foam with disloved gasoline.
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 01:14 PM
MSQ
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Ollie

thank you very much
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 01:38 PM
MSQ
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any further details about the procedure please write
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Old Feb 12, 2007, 09:07 PM
Nucking Futs
I'm Rick James's Avatar
Southern Killafornia
Joined Jan 2005
1,626 Posts
Really the easiest method I ever saw was to take a piece of pipe the said diameter, put some wax paper on it and be sure it's free of wrinkles. Wrap the pre-wetted CF cloth around it 2 or more times and then secure with more wax paper or cling film. Once it cures it'll slip right off the pipe and the clingfilm/wax paper will release farily easily. Biggest thing is to be sure the fibers are oriented spanwise and it's as free from wrinkles as you can make it.

HTH, IRJ
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 09:27 AM
DLD
David Layne
Tracy, Ca
Joined Jun 2004
665 Posts
If you need a tube that will have a smooth ID for a wing rod, take a piece of tube the size you want and at least six inches longer than you need. Polish it until it is a mirror-like finish. Wax it four or five times with high quality Carnuba wax, and apply PVA to it. If you are using carbon tow, wet out strips and lay them length-wise on th tube side by side until the tube is covered. The n take tow and wrap it around that, covering the entire piece. If it needs more thickness, wrap it again the opposite direction. Once you've reached a thickness you are happy with, make sure it is well wet out with epoxy, soak up the excess with paper towels and let cure. Once it is cured, grab the tube end with vise grips or something similar. Wrap a towel around the part tightly and twist . It shoul slide off the tube fairly easy. If it is being difficult, soak it with water to dissolve the PVA. This prcess may sound like a lot of work, but it really is not, and works quite well.

Good luck,

DLD
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 09:49 AM
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Years ago I used al. pool ques for a mandrel. Wrap with Saran Wrap as a release agent. The taper takes a lot of weight out of the tips where it is not needed. I sometimes used a sheet balsa core among other things. Hmmm, maybe I should go back to this and try Vac bagging.

To much work now and with out automatic machines you can't built as good as the ones you buy. I least I can't.

So I'm still trying to figure out a good way to build a wing. You would think by now every one would do it the same way, but they don't. So after all these years, my latest wing is going to built different again.

Sure as heck I wouldn't use gasoline for a solvent. That the worst tip I've seen today. I can't believe any one would do this. Please don't do this.

Bizard hobby, it is indeed.
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 11:50 AM
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United States, CA, Lake Forest
Joined Feb 1999
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Be prepared that not all aluminum tubing is 'perfect' along the length with the potential to make things stick... so cure your lay-up in a warm area and when cured, take the assembly and stick it in the freezer. The aluminum will shrink more than the carbon (which is more thermally stable) and it should be easier to pop off.
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