|Oct 12, 2012, 04:59 PM|
I am wondering what others use for the transfer medium. I know that one can use tissue for doped models, but what do others use for models covered in say solarfilm or oracover and the like? I have in the past hand painted my trim and letters/numbers but I see much more can be done with computer graphics to place insignia such as the AMA or ASP logos, for example.
I did see in the stationers 'transfer paper' but this seems to be specifically designed for fabrics and may not be suitable for a smooth surface. So would appreciate hearing what others use to place over different covered surfaces.
|Oct 12, 2012, 10:01 PM|
For laser printers:
For Ink Jet printers:
|Oct 13, 2012, 01:49 AM|
Thanks for that Joe. Problem is that we cannot buy this type of transfer paper in NZ. Only paper available is for transferring on to fabric - ie: tee shirts. That Papilio paper looks like the ideal paper to use. Alternative is to import and not sure whether seller would send just one pack. Allen
|Oct 13, 2012, 09:42 PM|
Brilliant. Appreciate your help Joe. Have ordered online from Texascraft. Ebay didn't seem to have the laser paper, only ink jet. Postage is same price as product but it will meet my needs for at lest 10 models. Kind regards, Allen
|Nov 02, 2012, 12:14 PM|
Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
I just put in an order for the laser decal paper.
I've been trying a laminating film, Doculam.
Doculam and Laminating films for model covering
I tried making the decals with just white paper and "top coating" them with Doculam.
I also touched up an older model covered in plastic film. Where the decals were starting to come off, or the overlapping seams were failing, I washed the area with soap and water, then I just ironed on a top coat of Doculam. Seems to help.
|Nov 02, 2012, 02:00 PM|
Allen & John,
I have been using the laser sheets for some time and have a few tips since as with everything, there are a few gotchas.
Get both clear & white sheets. But especially white since printers cannot print the colour white.
Clear decals are great as the background colour shows through and you do not have a white borderline around the decal, but that can also mean that the decal does not show up well, depending on what you have printed and what your background colour is.
But anything that has white in it will need to be printed on white decal paper.
You need to be able to envisage the end result you are aiming for.
Also remember, if using fuel, you will need to fuel proof the decal or seal it somehow preferably both before and after you apply it depending on where it will be situated in relation to the fuel/exhaust.
Rattle can sprays of clear substance work but EXPERIMENT first as some don't, or appear to but craze when you put the decal in water etc and so will let fuel in. Some will disolve the laser ink and turn your decal into a messy smudge. Sadly different types and brands have different results.
Personally, I did not have too good results with the ones I tried and it can get expensive but I have found Butyrate dope to work well. Or at the least the brand we get here locally and I have quite a bit of it. Spray it on thin and let it dry well before cutting out and apply the decals.
It is fuel proof too.
Obviously for electrics and such you don't need to fuel proof the decals, but remember that if they are unsealed then they can still get smudged. How do I know? Well one of the guys kindly collected my free flight model (electric) on his way back at the field and his hands were oily from picking his model up, a diesel and he was holding it with his thumb over the decal on the side. Left a nice dissolved thumbprint in it for me.
Lastly "most" laser printers should work ok, BUT, some colour lasers get a lot hotter than others or the mono ones. The only way to find out if they will handle the particular brand of paper you have bought is to try it, but bear in mind that it just possibly can be a very expensive exercise if the decal paper melts up around the drum or some other bit inside the printer....
|Nov 02, 2012, 05:51 PM|
Thanks for the tips, all very useful info. I can only say I have been lucky. I could only see clear transfer paper for laser printers listed when I ordered but put a note in asking for white background if they had it which they did. I only printed a sheet off when the printer was completely cold and hadn't been used that day. I have noticed previously that printer does get hot when multiple copies are run through the machine.
I then sprayed the complete decal sheet with two thin coats of polyurethane, cut out parts when dry, and viola, a nice end result. Attached photo of the Simplex 60 sign. Can see that a packet of clear sheets would also be an advantage.
Also, to maximize a print, if there is spare space on the sheet layout, I would fill this numbers or lettering for use at a later time as a sheet will only pass through the printer once.
|Nov 16, 2012, 11:44 AM|
I'm always looking for interesting decals to put on my field box, does anyone have club logos, competition decals, or anything else from any country that would be interesting or amusing for my purposes?
I've already made my selection from what has already been posted here, some great items, but I'm always looking for other things!
|Jan 11, 2013, 11:23 PM|
The Mercury Models 'Teal' will be my next project so I am gathering material together. Appreciate Vintage 1's mercury logo but I am also wanting to reproduce the Teal name and possibly the photo of the model in the 'cloud'. If anyone has the wizardry to produce good copy of this it would be appreciated. When I enlarge to picture it loses definition.
And the reason I am building this model, well the name, both the models and mine, says it all.
|Jan 21, 2013, 07:38 PM|
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