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Old Feb 06, 2007, 12:29 PM
did a reversed Immelman..once.
SKYPILEIT's Avatar
Novi, Michigan
Joined Nov 2002
2,245 Posts
Dandy build...

aahhh,good eye Coo...yep one screw got away...all I could find was that slightly longer one.I prefer to use Z-bends at the servo arm and EZ's on the other end.Makes checking 'em & adjustments easier(brilliant..!! )My Dandy GT is currently equipped with 5400kv MAMBA,9X7 GWS prop,geared 7.3:1...it's a little beast with 165 watts & only 13.4 ozs.For some reason I prefer the Dandy with the straight GT wing....but my Switchback with the sport wing.
C/Fall,we are still interested in your Dandy Sport build,so please continue....the pics are interesting.Any other issues...please post it and we will offer opinion/experience,that's what makes this forum sooo fun.
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Old Feb 07, 2007, 12:16 PM
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Controlled Fall's Avatar
Chantilly, VA
Joined Dec 2006
213 Posts
Inhale...squeeze those bulkheads!...Exhale...

Thanks Dulcet!
I think I can deviate from the script to add some strength and survivability. I saved all my scrap balsa just in case I was so inspired (as evidenced by the pile on the floor in the background of the fuse shot below.

Work continues at a sporadic pace with a newborn in the house. Both Mommy and Baby are napping while Older Sister is at daycare. I will be leaving shortly to end the quiet spell. My most productive run so far was after being awakened at 3AM the other night. After helping with the feeding, I caught up on my surfing, worked on the Dandy, and even had time to post my results before going back to the office. But today, I'm home! Ironically, being at work is my respite.

This morning I glued the front half of the fuse together. It was at this point that I realized that I truly wish I had pins when I glued the doublers on a few days ago. The left side is off by a mm or two. It made lining up the slots with the bulkheads an interesting excercise in patience. Since I really needed precise movements, I dispensed with the glove and got everything line up before glueing. After about ten minutes I had the three front bulkheads (F1, F2, F3) all in place, but the registration wasn't perfect as I could feel some tension in the cumulative effects of mm here, a mm there...

I wondered if it might be wise to switch over to medium CA to give myself a few extra seconds to react in case something popped out and then dried in the wrong place a second later. Evenutally I went with low viscosity thin CA to "flow" down to the bottom of the fuselage. It took a lot of glue, and I was lucky not to glue myself since I continue to only glove up my left hand.

These little tolerance errors manifested themselves again when I glued the fuse sides to the fuse bottom. The doubler was about 1mm too close. I am fretful as a perfectionist, but I will rationalize that the small gap will become inconsequential after covering. Even though those pesky bulkhead eventually cooperated, the fuse sides would pop loose after I let go which surprised me. Every other step along the way, the CA bonded in about 5-10 seconds. So I put more CA on at the front of the fuselage, held the sides in place with my gloved hand, and then sprayed with kicker. End of problem...I hope.

I then applied a rubber band which was almost the perfect size to hold the bond while I fetched the camera. A double-wrap, I felt, would put too much compression on the fuse so a little twist of a hobby knife, held in place with a sand block, provided a make-shift tourniquet and seemed to provide a good balance of stress.
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Old Feb 07, 2007, 03:49 PM
The Evil Twin
Garden City, GA
Joined Feb 2004
1,308 Posts
I wouldn't stress about your build as it's hard to go wrong with that plane. I'd like to recommend staying with thin CA and not using kicker. Kicker can make the bond brittle. Keep up the good work.

Matthew
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Old Feb 07, 2007, 04:59 PM
Leave me alone!
Martin Hunter's Avatar
Kamloops, BC, Canada
Joined Feb 2002
15,106 Posts
It's nice to see new balsa addicts in the making. Keep those pics coming!

Matthew, some of us live by kicker. I think I end up using it on 1/2 of my CA glue joints, particularly where wicking isn't a concern or even possible.

Martin
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Old Feb 11, 2007, 06:57 AM
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Controlled Fall's Avatar
Chantilly, VA
Joined Dec 2006
213 Posts
Progress is slow and will be for some time. A 2yr old and 10 day old require fast and agile parents!

The fuselage is complete, and I will post pictures as soon as I am able. I did not glue the back half in one step but rather, I started at the middle and glued bulkhead to bulkhead to make the job more manageable. The back 1/4" of doubler made flexing the fuse sides a little tough. I later read a tip in the Flashback pdf that soaking balsa sheets beforehand helps. Despite my incremental approach, everything lined up and looks nice. Now on to the avionic guts...

Matthew, yep, it was an "on the spot" decision to reach over for the kicker. So far its the only time its been used, but I didn't want the bottom sheet to dry in a "popped-off" position. Appreciate the tip...as that's not a good place for a plane to be brittle!

Martin, This particular addict in making is already wondering what to build next

Before I post any pictures I need to diagnose a computer problem. The PC hates it when I pull up Photoshop, and ever since I upgraded my Norton a few weeks ago, I've had about four or five unplanned shutdowns a week.

P.S. Last week I was home for two days, and I just happened to notice a brown truck outside while I was changing a light bulb. It was my covering and iron, and I was able to sneak it into the house undetected! No questions from the frau! Woo hoo!
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 06:59 AM
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Controlled Fall's Avatar
Chantilly, VA
Joined Dec 2006
213 Posts
Technical Support questions

I made some incremental progress the last two days. The top rear fuselage did not go on as exactly as planned. The dry fit was perfect, but after glueing one side and moving to the other, there had been some "adhesive movement." Nothing too serious though.

Making Z bends sounded easy but actually provided a momentary challenge I think I got it right on the second try after snipping off the first atrocity.

I got a little glue on the wires where the exit the rear of the fuselage which is causing a little sticking. I scraped it off after it dried and movement appears restored.

However, forgive me if it is in the instructions, and I cannot see it. Is there a difference between which type of velcro is used in the battery compartment? One side is glued to the plane, the other to the battery and receiver? What is the purpose of the red velcro?

My morning has been interrupted by children as I had some questions to ask about moving on to MAKING planes from scratch. Get your thinking caps on, and I'll post them later!
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 07:24 AM
Obviously I'm a "Minus Member"
buzzltyr's Avatar
USA, MA, Longmeadow
Joined Jun 2003
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Controlled, you are making great progress, and the Dandy is looking great!

If the control rod still sticks, you can always take some sandpaper, wrap it around the wire and sand off the rest of the glue until it moves smoothly.

The red velcro is a "battery seatbelt" Put it around the battery tray, and just overlap it to hold the battery. On the two pieces of velcro, glue one to the battery tray and the other to your battery. Looking forward, as you acquire and build more models, it helps to use the same velcro surface (hook vs. loop, rough vs. smooth) on all your models and batteries, so that you can move batteries to different models without having to remove/install new velcro, i.e. the hook/rough velcro is always mounted on your battery trays, and the loop/smooth velcro is always mounted on your batteries.

Mark
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 08:13 AM
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brucea's Avatar
Bailey, CO
Joined Apr 2006
1,540 Posts
Nice Job

Quote:
Originally Posted by Controlled Fall
I made some incremental progress the last two days. The top rear fuselage did not go on as exactly as planned. The dry fit was perfect, but after glueing one side and moving to the other, there had been some "adhesive movement." Nothing too serious though.

Making Z bends sounded easy but actually provided a momentary challenge I think I got it right on the second try after snipping off the first atrocity.

I got a little glue on the wires where the exit the rear of the fuselage which is causing a little sticking. I scraped it off after it dried and movement appears restored. <snip>
Dear Controlled Fall,

Your Dandy build thread is an inspiration! I built my first balsa plane 45 years ago and have yet to build the perfect plane. You have good skills and a great sense of humor.

I am currently building Mountain Models MiniFlash. This is the first kit I have built that does not require pins, nor any modifications to make parts fit.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks, Bruce
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 08:31 PM
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Controlled Fall's Avatar
Chantilly, VA
Joined Dec 2006
213 Posts
Bruce and Mark,
Thanks for the compliments and info! I thought I might blush but real men don't do that do they?

The ice storm closed down work early, and I had the house to myself when I got home. So of course I hid down in my bunker, er basement to continue work on the Dandy.

My mother-in-law came over and found me...chatted me up while I put the velcro on the wrong side However that was easily fixed. I guess the CA I flowed in from the side to augment the weakened velcro adhesive won't tear up the velcro too bad. Heeding Buzzltyr's advice, I noticed that my batteries already have the fuzzy side so my "Velcro Convention" is that hooks go on the plane. I'd like to think I would have thought about that, but current sleep deprivation makes that seem unlikely.

On the bright side, if I were a praying mantis, I'd be dead already.

I had never glued tyvek before so I took the battery hatch slowly. It didn't seem to be sticking very well so I used the wax paper on my table to smooth it out. The wax paper almost stuck to the plane! It got torn up pretty good. Hatch turned out OK though.

However, as I moved my hatch back and forth, I remembered one of my questions that I was not able to ask in this morning's post...

Covering
At what point should the fuselage get covered? Where it says "You may want to paint the fuselage at this time"? I guess I'll "practice" with the stabilizers. Nice flat surfaces. But not tonight, I'm already tired.

Receiver/Expansion to ailerons
For now I'm putting together the 3-channel version, and with the weather the way it is, I don't foresee mastering 3-channel flight any time soon. I plan on using the Tx/Rx from my EasyStar kit (Hitec Neon with a Hitec HFS-06MT rx).

However, let's say I get delusions of grandeur and want to expand to the...4th Channel! Would it be as simple as ordering a Sport Wing and installing another servo? I figured I could email Brian, but I thought it might be more fun to discuss it here
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 09:12 PM
Obviously I'm a "Minus Member"
buzzltyr's Avatar
USA, MA, Longmeadow
Joined Jun 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Controlled Fall
Bruce and Mark,

Covering
At what point should the fuselage get covered? Where it says "You may want to paint the fuselage at this time"? I guess I'll "practice" with the stabilizers. Nice flat surfaces. But not tonight, I'm already tired.

Receiver/Expansion to ailerons
For now I'm putting together the 3-channel version, and with the weather the way it is, I don't foresee mastering 3-channel flight any time soon. I plan on using the Tx/Rx from my EasyStar kit (Hitec Neon with a Hitec HFS-06MT rx).

However, let's say I get delusions of grandeur and want to expand to the...4th Channel! Would it be as simple as ordering a Sport Wing and installing another servo? I figured I could email Brian, but I thought it might be more fun to discuss it here
Controlled, if the basic fuselage is done, now is the time to cover or paint it.
Be sure you don't cover where the tailfeathers will be attached. A balsa-to- balsa joint is much better. Are you going to be using Solite for covering?

As far as moving up to the sport wing, all you will need is the sport wing kit and another servo (and glue and covering, of course).

Mark
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 10:50 PM
AMA# 851123
brucea's Avatar
Bailey, CO
Joined Apr 2006
1,540 Posts
Covering is Fun

Quote:
Originally Posted by Controlled Fall
<snip>
Covering
At what point should the fuselage get covered? Where it says "You may want to paint the fuselage at this time"? I guess I'll "practice" with the stabilizers. Nice flat surfaces. But not tonight, I'm already tired.
Dear Controlled,

Covering can make or break your model! I recommend the "Secrets of Great Covering with Top Flite MonoKote" DVD by Top Flite. The procedures in this DVD apply to any plastic film covering such as SoLite, EconoKote, SolarFilm etc.

For advanced techniques, I recommend "Tom's Techniques" published by Harry Higley. Covering is fun, but very time consuming.

A trim iron comes in handy, so does a heat gun. You will need lots of single edge razor blades. I also use a number 2 x-acto knife with a zillion number 11 blades. A metal straight edge is needed to make stripes. I also have some razor sharp scissors.

I don't start covering until I have completed the basic build. Trim sheets are a nice way to add pattern and decoration. I don't generally paint my models. Unless you don't do a lot of filling, sealing and sanding, paint tends not too look all that good.

Thanks, Bruce
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 11:03 PM
ODB VI September 2014
1987tc's Avatar
United States, OK, Weleetka
Joined Dec 2000
8,508 Posts
Here is a great thread right here on rcg. And it is free!
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 11:14 PM
Leave me alone!
Martin Hunter's Avatar
Kamloops, BC, Canada
Joined Feb 2002
15,106 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987tc
... made for that exact purpose Thanks for the plug, tc!

Martin
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Old Feb 13, 2007, 11:16 PM
ODB VI September 2014
1987tc's Avatar
United States, OK, Weleetka
Joined Dec 2000
8,508 Posts
Of course!
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Old Feb 14, 2007, 10:04 AM
The Evil Twin
Garden City, GA
Joined Feb 2004
1,308 Posts
Hey ya'll.

TC beat me to it! Martin is one of the best out there.

Awhile back Doug and I had a discussion about attaching the tail feathers. One idea was to have the builder cover the tail and then attach it to the fuse. The reason being that it would detach easier in case of a bad landing etc. I've done it that way on quite a few planes without problem. What are your thoughts?

Matthew
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