Looking for CNC Mill Part I

[PanzyPoof]

My guess is they Landed a container of the things.
So when there gone Saw approx 60 left.
If interested contact me and I'll hint there location. 7motel@interlog.con

[DICKEYBIRD]

Hint?? Why not just tell us where ya got 'em?

[PanzyPoof]

We'll OK guess the locals have all they need by now. Sayal Electronics 905-238-8640

[PanzyPoof]

Purchased the Plans from John C Kleinbauer.
$30 US And well worth it.
Build has been easy and straight forward.
I think this is a winner design,
Have Spent approx $130 in Home Depo and have Most of the Hardware and Wood. Picked up a Dremal in pawn shop for $40 and the Bearing required for $25
Building right along with the Plans(KISS)

[Hopperfly22]

So let me get this straight...
For less than $1000 you can actually build a CNC milling machine? Thats just awesome. Not that I'd use it because I can't even use Cad, but still I can imagine what I'd do with one lol.

[DICKEYBIRD]

Hey P/Poof....great job! You're stepping (no pun intended) into a whole new world of enjoyment (and at times frustration). Good luck and keep those pics coming as you progress. You'll probably end up with a trim router before long instead of the Dremel since they're much more robust and have tighter bearings (more accurate.)

Hopper: Yup, a lot less than $1000.00 in money but a LOT of fiddle time and software cussin'! I would suggest getting a cheap CAD program (some are free) and finding a friend to "show you the ropes." If you design or modify your own planes, you'll never regret the time spent learning CAD. Once you're up and running with CAD, CNC is not too hard. Heck, I've never had any training at all and I'm doing it!

[Zoltar]

Maybe interesting to all scratch builders....

CNC@HOME!

Just have a look at www.rcmodels.net/cnc

Real metalkits starting at 275 Euro, for compact, sturdy and usefull tool.

Completed homebuild machines based on this kit will endup between 700 and 1200 dollars depending on your personal skills....

Regards,

Chris

[jbourke]

Chris,

I was looking at your web site the other day and have considered ordering.

I'm a little unsure what else I will need to purchase. It seems that if I buy a CNC stepper/controller package from hobbycnc.com and use that with my own dremel and your metal kit, that I will then have all the components.

Is this correct? Can you review the packages at hobbycnc.com and tell me if they will work properly with your cnc router kit? What other expense should I know about?

Jim

[Erik Johansson]

I´d like to build a CNC mill that I could use to mill plugs for fibreglass fuselages (small ones for pylon). Isn´t there ANY drawing of a DIY-mill like the one pictured above with drawings online?

/Erik

[Zoltar]

Hello Jim,

Yes I saw this set also :

"Major Electronics Components Package Kit $225! "

"NOT included is a case and transformer. "

For this ad 60-75$

So you endup incl shipment at 300-325$

I can not review their electronics as I do not know it.

The steppers are oke- Vexta PH266-01A - (minimum 1Nm?)


Maybe you should also have a look at www.nc-step.de

I believe this is a real German quality electronics and

stepperengines. He is not too expensive....


If you combine such a set with a zoltar machine set 001-003-004

or 002-003-004 you are up and running. But if you have a lathe,

+ materials you can even you can start with set 001 or 002

too keep costs down. Please read on the website about the

different possibilities.

Regards,

Chris

[TedLarson]

Originally posted by Erik Johansson
I´d like to build a CNC mill that I could use to mill plugs for fibreglass fuselages (small ones for pylon). Isn´t there ANY drawing of a DIY-mill like the one pictured above with drawings online?

I am just learning about CNC mills myself....and don't know much yet....but, it seems to me that a mill which can do 3D cuts, would be much more complicated than one that could just do 2D cuts. Cutting a plug seems much more complicated than cutting out some wing ribs.

Panzy? Is it your plan for your new mill to do 3D cutting?

BTW....great photo!

- Ted

[PanzyPoof]

Ted
For now mainly Use plans That I've purchased Rescale to my liking then cut the Pieces from flatstock. 100% personal and for a few Friends.
My PBY needs wing Ribs so that's First once it's UP! I'm shure there be a List once word get's out

Off to Home Depo for some 3/4Alun angle for the
Skates

[balsaman]

I plan on building one this winter. I have drawn up some plans for a 12x 24 table. Here is what I have so far: The plans are untried, untested, and as of now incomplete. I will send them to anyone who wants them.

Eric

www.e-zflight.com

[uscra112]

Balsaman - thats a nice job. But, having been in the machine tool building business most of my working life, let me suggest that you may want to consider making the long axis of the table run at right angles to the crossrail axis. This will keep the crossrail shorter and stiffer, so it won't sag as much when the weight of the router saddle is in the middle of the rail. Or build the crossrail as a box-beam, to make it as torsionally stiff as possible. Or do both. Also, having the table move on it's long axis will give a much better aspect ratio for it's guideways, which will minimize the tendancy to yaw as it moves, especially on direction reversals.

Are you planning to use some sort of steel anti-friction guideways? That's what it looks like you drew.

I'm going to do one this winter, too. May post a chassis design of my own if I get one I like. Wooden machine tools! The first machine tools were indeed wood - 1000 or more years ago. Then we started using cast iron in the middle 1700s. Steel weldments in the middle 1900s. Epoxy-granite in the late 1900s. Now here we are back to wood, but with computers on them, no less ! I'm thinking of making my guideways of oak, (from Home Depot), just to see if I can make it work!

[balsaman]

USCRA,

Thanks for the tips. I designed it this way because it fits in my shop better this way. I don't anticipate any troubles with rigidity or sag. I work as a maintenance electrician for a large autoparts manufacturer. Automobiles change quikly and as a result, our equipment gets modified/replaced regularly for new model changes. The equipment gets scrapped, and me, being the scrounger that I am, am over there scabbing the cool stuff off before it goes in the scrap. I have enough linear bearings and the matching hardened steel rail to make the cnc router. These things are almost friction free, and there is NO freeplay whatsoever....we are talking none. The rails are also very rigid, which will make the "bridge" very rigid as well. I also found some sweet 1/2" ACME threaded rod.

here is a pic of the linear bearing:

Eric

www.e-zflight.com