Looking for CNC Mill Part I - Page 101

crankorgan · Dec 28, 2003, 09:45 PM

xairflyer,
Go to a paint store and ask about latex. Don't go to a department store.

John

Bez · Dec 29, 2003, 09:39 PM

I think Emulsion is what they call latex paint in Ireland and the UK.

But it looks thicker than what we have.

I watch DIY shows on BBC America and they call indoor paint Emulsion.

See this link...

http://www.johnsofnottingham.co.uk/T...lsionPaint.htm

Aaron

titewad · Dec 29, 2003, 10:44 PM

What type wire and connectors do yoe use to connect the stepper motors?

Jim Frahm · Dec 30, 2003, 01:04 PM

This thread has been a big help. I've read it from start to finish over the past few weeks, and now I have a question for you guys. I've been gathering parts, plans, etc, and now I'm looking for software. I came across a G code converter called Quickstep ($55.00). Any of you familuar with it? I know you've talked about software in this thread, but I can't find it. The search function for this thread has been turned off. Thanks in advance,
Jim

uscra112 · Dec 30, 2003, 01:32 PM

Latex paint is technically an emulsion - particles of non-aqueous material suspended in a water carrier. When the water evaporates the particles bond together as a coating film. Same as the water-base polyurethane varnish a lot of us use for covering foam airframes.

crankorgan · Dec 30, 2003, 02:27 PM

Catch-Air,
Most people use TurboCnc ($20)(DOS) to convert the GCode to motor movement. You can convert a DXF to a Gcode using ACE (Found free in the CNCPro package) or use KCam(Win)($100). The Flashcut Demo (Win) will convert a DXF to GCode.

Quickstep is a clone of KCam that does not let you set the pin numbers to most of the controllers out there. Maybe he changed it by now. Try KCam first.

John Cranky Kleinbauer

Jim Frahm · Dec 30, 2003, 02:54 PM

Crankorgan,

As always, thanks for the info. I just downloaded ACE. I'm really looking forward to your plans.

One more question for you: The bar holders you made with the 4 adjusting screw, what material did you use? I think I read PVC, but it looks like aluminum.

crankorgan · Dec 30, 2003, 04:01 PM

Catch-Air,
1/2" Grey PVC. Plexi-Glass will also do. Some people use MDF (Bogus)

John

MrChips · Dec 30, 2003, 07:40 PM

John,
Where can this Gray PVC be found? Don't think I have seen it in the home stores.
Thanks
Hager

crankorgan · Dec 30, 2003, 07:50 PM

MrChips,
Local Plastic supplier, Ebay, On my Links page there is a guy at Norva plastic that will sell you a nice amount cheap. He is also on Ebay. You can drill-tap or sand it all with standard hand woodworking tools. Unlike plexi-Glass it does not crack. Grey PVC is neat stuff. I turned several robotic guy on to the stuff. They got tired of Plexi. I use 1/4" and 1/2"

John

MrChips · Dec 31, 2003, 01:44 AM

John,
I checked Nova Plastics and they list five types of PVC, which one do you suggest?
Thanks
Hager

crankorgan · Dec 31, 2003, 07:13 AM

MrChips,
Tell Howard you want some Grey PVC 1/4" thick and some 1/2". Are you build one of my machines?
He sells some precut pieces that help with building my machines. Not all the blanks are there.

John

Jim Frahm · Dec 31, 2003, 11:44 AM

John,

Thanks for all your help and information in this thread. I ordered two sets of plans from you. I don't have the plans with me, so I'm sorry if this is answered somewhere in the plans. Is it possible/advisable to mount the two rails on the 7th Sojourn just like the Routezilla II?
As you advised MrChips, I will contact Howard for the grey PVC.

Thanks again and Happy New Year.

Jim

crankorgan · Dec 31, 2003, 01:05 PM

Catch-Air,
The flanged mounted pipe holds its setting better than the other designs. The 7th can be moved and used without recalibration. The pipes strengthen the base. People have milled circuit boards with the 7th. The Phoenix is designed for cutting out larger balsa parts and cutting signs. This requires less accuracy. The 7th can be made very accurate. There is also a private support of my main page.

John

Tree_Magnet · Dec 31, 2003, 02:01 PM

Well my router is up and running it's all based on crankys 7th. It is a simple an accurate design. if any one was thinging on building a router for the first time use crankys 7th plans. i am using xylotex 3 axis chopper driver board and am cutting 18 inches/min which isn't bad. the chopper driver is the only way to go i built another controller using lm298 chips a (couple of years ago ) and current limit resistors. it was a little cheaper but the xylotex driver is only $125 usd (about $160 cdn + 25 shipping)

Tom

Dec 30, 2003, 02:27 PM	#1506
crankorgan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 569	Catch-Air, Most people use TurboCnc ($20)(DOS) to convert the GCode to motor movement. You can convert a DXF to a Gcode using ACE (Found free in the CNCPro package) or use KCam(Win)($100). The Flashcut Demo (Win) will convert a DXF to GCode. Quickstep is a clone of KCam that does not let you set the pin numbers to most of the controllers out there. Maybe he changed it by now. Try KCam first. John Cranky Kleinbauer Last edited by crankorgan; Dec 30, 2003 at 02:31 PM.

Dec 31, 2003, 01:05 PM	#1514
crankorgan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 569	Catch-Air, The flanged mounted pipe holds its setting better than the other designs. The 7th can be moved and used without recalibration. The pipes strengthen the base. People have milled circuit boards with the 7th. The Phoenix is designed for cutting out larger balsa parts and cutting signs. This requires less accuracy. The 7th can be made very accurate. There is also a private support of my main page. John Last edited by crankorgan; Dec 31, 2003 at 01:12 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Looking for CNC Mill Part II	Steve McBride	The Builders Workshop	375	Feb 14, 2009 11:49 PM
Looking for CNC router table	FHHOBBIES	The Builders Workshop	13	Jul 19, 2005 09:39 AM
Looking for CNC Mill - thread relocated	Andy W	The Builders Workshop	0	Feb 02, 2005 04:02 PM
Looking for a helicopter spare part	David Rodriguez	rec.models.rc.helicopter	1	Jan 18, 2004 07:02 PM
Looking for a CNC 4 AXIS FOAM CUTTER	A.D.	Power Systems	3	Nov 13, 2001 03:44 PM

Dec 28, 2003, 09:45 PM	#1501
crankorgan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 569	xairflyer, Go to a paint store and ask about latex. Don't go to a department store. John

Dec 29, 2003, 09:39 PM	#1502
Bez Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Posts: 7	I think Emulsion is what they call latex paint in Ireland and the UK. But it looks thicker than what we have. I watch DIY shows on BBC America and they call indoor paint Emulsion. See this link... http://www.johnsofnottingham.co.uk/T...lsionPaint.htm Aaron

Dec 29, 2003, 10:44 PM	#1503
titewad Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 5	What type wire and connectors do yoe use to connect the stepper motors?

Dec 30, 2003, 01:04 PM	#1504
Jim Frahm MSgt, USAF Ret. Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Spokane Washington Posts: 668	This thread has been a big help. I've read it from start to finish over the past few weeks, and now I have a question for you guys. I've been gathering parts, plans, etc, and now I'm looking for software. I came across a G code converter called Quickstep ($55.00). Any of you familuar with it? I know you've talked about software in this thread, but I can't find it. The search function for this thread has been turned off. Thanks in advance, Jim

Dec 30, 2003, 01:32 PM	#1505
uscra112 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Mid-Michigan Posts: 2,178	Latex paint is technically an emulsion - particles of non-aqueous material suspended in a water carrier. When the water evaporates the particles bond together as a coating film. Same as the water-base polyurethane varnish a lot of us use for covering foam airframes.

Dec 30, 2003, 02:54 PM	#1507
Jim Frahm MSgt, USAF Ret. Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Spokane Washington Posts: 668	Crankorgan, As always, thanks for the info. I just downloaded ACE. I'm really looking forward to your plans. One more question for you: The bar holders you made with the 4 adjusting screw, what material did you use? I think I read PVC, but it looks like aluminum.

Dec 30, 2003, 04:01 PM	#1508
crankorgan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 569	Catch-Air, 1/2" Grey PVC. Plexi-Glass will also do. Some people use MDF (Bogus) John

Dec 30, 2003, 07:40 PM	#1509
MrChips Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Austin TX Posts: 23	John, Where can this Gray PVC be found? Don't think I have seen it in the home stores. Thanks Hager

Dec 30, 2003, 07:50 PM	#1510
crankorgan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 569	MrChips, Local Plastic supplier, Ebay, On my Links page there is a guy at Norva plastic that will sell you a nice amount cheap. He is also on Ebay. You can drill-tap or sand it all with standard hand woodworking tools. Unlike plexi-Glass it does not crack. Grey PVC is neat stuff. I turned several robotic guy on to the stuff. They got tired of Plexi. I use 1/4" and 1/2" John

Dec 31, 2003, 01:44 AM	#1511
MrChips Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Austin TX Posts: 23	John, I checked Nova Plastics and they list five types of PVC, which one do you suggest? Thanks Hager

Dec 31, 2003, 07:13 AM	#1512
crankorgan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 569	MrChips, Tell Howard you want some Grey PVC 1/4" thick and some 1/2". Are you build one of my machines? He sells some precut pieces that help with building my machines. Not all the blanks are there. John

Dec 31, 2003, 11:44 AM	#1513
Jim Frahm MSgt, USAF Ret. Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Spokane Washington Posts: 668	John, Thanks for all your help and information in this thread. I ordered two sets of plans from you. I don't have the plans with me, so I'm sorry if this is answered somewhere in the plans. Is it possible/advisable to mount the two rails on the 7th Sojourn just like the Routezilla II? As you advised MrChips, I will contact Howard for the grey PVC. Thanks again and Happy New Year. Jim

Dec 31, 2003, 02:01 PM	#1515
Tree_Magnet Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: georgetown ontario Posts: 389	Well my router is up and running it's all based on crankys 7th. It is a simple an accurate design. if any one was thinging on building a router for the first time use crankys 7th plans. i am using xylotex 3 axis chopper driver board and am cutting 18 inches/min which isn't bad. the chopper driver is the only way to go i built another controller using lm298 chips a (couple of years ago ) and current limit resistors. it was a little cheaper but the xylotex driver is only $125 usd (about $160 cdn + 25 shipping) Tom