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Old Mar 06, 2006, 05:24 AM
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Concordefan's Avatar
Canada, ON, Mississauga
Joined Feb 2006
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Hi Jim,

I was sort of thinking on same lines also but the way you explained makes alot of sence, i will follow your instructions on cutting and fitting engine necelles. Doing them after engine mounts have been built is alot easier the doing them before from what i also could see.

Yes i did noticed the down thrust on the engine pods on the plan, now what about the direction of engine thrust?, i know in multi engined models direction of engine thrust is different from left wing engines to right wing engines, how would that effact in my case?

1- Engines points inwards on both wings to keep model tracking in stright line?
2- Engines points outwards on both wings?...

Sammy
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Old Mar 06, 2006, 06:44 AM
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Jim Young's Avatar
Brighton, MI USA
Joined Jun 2000
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As far as left and right thrust, mine are all pointing straight ahaed. And I have no problems with crabbing, even without the rudder. I would recommend that you include the rudder, since you will need it if you have a flame out.

-Jim
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Old Mar 06, 2006, 07:46 AM
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RandyL's Avatar
Silver Lake, Ks USA
Joined Dec 2000
603 Posts
The correct term is "_when_ you have a flameout ".

3 - 4 degrees out on each engine would be what you are looking for. Absolutely not inboard. The actual amount would require flight tests but several degrees out won't hurt you any.
The reason is that when you loose an engine, that wing begins to fall back. The engines on the other wing will help pull the model back straight and make the engine out problem not as severe. If you were to use inboard thrust you would have an aggrivated spin situation.
You will never know which engine is out until the airframe reacts, the props are much too small to see in the air. Hopefully, you will have a chance to react before a deep spin comes in. I have saved some, and lost some, in this condition. You may only have a second or less to react with the proper command, depends on altitude and airframe.

Randy
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Old Mar 07, 2006, 06:42 AM
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Concordefan's Avatar
Canada, ON, Mississauga
Joined Feb 2006
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Hi Jim,

Yes i am going to be making rudder on it, i looked at it last night and for some reason for multi engined model, present rudder seems to be small in size for it, i was thinking if i would increase height of whole fin by another 1", what do you think, i mean just incase in flame out situation i should have enough rudder area to counter the pull from opposite engines and also in cross wind situations...

Randy,

You are right they should be outwards degree angles, i think 3-4 degrees sounds right to me also. As for looking at small props how about paint these in day-glo red to be more visualent in case of flame out or dead sticks....
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Old Mar 07, 2006, 06:43 AM
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northampton, England.
Joined Oct 2000
684 Posts
Hi guys, i picked up a Titanic models B-29 at a swapmeet and have a few questions some of you might help with. Where is the balance point back from the LE and what should the control throws be? The rudder has been fixed at the servo end and the servo removed, would it fly better with the rudder servo fitted back in and some rudder mixed with aileron................Martin
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Old Mar 07, 2006, 06:53 AM
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Canada, ON, Mississauga
Joined Feb 2006
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Now what are the difference between Jim 's designed B29 kit and Titanic models B29 kit?
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Old Mar 07, 2006, 06:15 PM
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Brighton, MI USA
Joined Jun 2000
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Hi Martin,

Mine balances 3" back from the leading edge fo the wing. I've been flying mine without rudder for a couple of years ,and haven't missed it. It wouldn't hurt to put it back in.

Sammy,

Let's just say that great minds think alike and leave it a that.

-Jim
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Old Mar 07, 2006, 08:10 PM
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Silver Lake, Ks USA
Joined Dec 2000
603 Posts
Good idea on the paint but it won't work ( in my opinion ). They are just far too small and too far away... and even then the aircraft would have to be at the proper angle and heading for you to see them even if possible. I fly aircraft in the IMAA size which use 16 inch and larger propers...can't see them in a panic situation either... it just won't happen so be prepared how ever you can without a visual on which engine is out. I'll get flamed on but you need and use ailerons with and engine out as well. The fact is that when an egine begins to falter, the wing it is on falls back and the wing with the good motors goes forward. This causes more lift on the forward wing and aileron will help keep it down and level . This is often a prefered move before attempting to trim with rudder and throttle. If you hear any surging at all...kill all motors at once and don't take a chance on a spin that will destroy your airplane...glide back and live to fly another day. All multi-motor r/c aircraft have a very limited life, expect the worst and hope it does not happen real quickly. I've flown multi engine and multi motor for many years and I honestly speak from experience. Wishing you the best.. Randy
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Old Mar 08, 2006, 11:51 AM
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Concordefan's Avatar
Canada, ON, Mississauga
Joined Feb 2006
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Hi Randy,

I guess not, i have my fingers crossed on the life span of my first WWII Bomber model, i want to keep flying it for few years!...but what will happen in air is all wait and watch game....

What color schemes guys have done on there models so far, can you guys share most of 30 models already built and flowm from Jim's design....I am hoping to do my one as Enola gay for now unless its already been done...
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Old Mar 08, 2006, 07:50 PM
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Silver Lake, Ks USA
Joined Dec 2000
603 Posts
Mine is not modeled after any paticular aircraft.... I made up the nose art myself and the "Diamond C " is there is honor my test pilot Ross Clemmons and the person that got me started on the project, Bernard Cawley of E-Zone fame.
As far as I know I may have been one of the modelers that started a fantastic wave of B-29 model building when I published my B-29 page back in 2001. I've had the great fortune of aquiring many new friends due to this model. Bernard, Perry, Jim, and many others. It is still one of my favorites...
Feel free to have a look if you have not. It is about half way down my main homepage.. http://www.flyinglindy.homestead.com/index1.html

Randy
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Old Mar 09, 2006, 12:29 AM
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Canada, ON, Mississauga
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Nice model randy, though its not after any B-29 painted in reality but it sure looks preety scale scheme to me.

Were there any other colors applied to B29s or all were polished aluminum!, i have heard polished aluminum or chrome color can easily silloutte in air...

Sammy
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Old Mar 09, 2006, 07:53 AM
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Silver Lake, Ks USA
Joined Dec 2000
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Strange but I have found that it really is easy to see.. I find no problem at all with the color, and I'm a weak tri-focal wearer.

I think you will have to search pretty hard to find a B-29 scheme with much paint on it. I'm sure there had to be some, somewhere...

The later part of the B-17's produced were aluminum finish because they finally figured out some basics. Paint added weight, added drag, added cost, and at the same time slowed the aircraft due to the drag and reduced payload.. trading paint for 50 cal defensive ammo would not be on my list of good ideas!! As the B-29 came in the wake of the B-17, I would think that most were in natural aluminum finish.

Some of the devoted B-29 people will probably be able to point you towards a painted version, I just know of none myself.

Randy
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Old Mar 09, 2006, 10:46 PM
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Jim Young's Avatar
Brighton, MI USA
Joined Jun 2000
1,892 Posts
Hi Guys,

I got this photo showing a retract installation in the B-29. Here is the explanation to go along with it:

Ths is the main gear installation. The supports for the retract are
angled because the wheel would interfere with the motor mount.
Unfortunately the wheel will not retract all the way and shows a bit
at the bottom of the nacelle. As you can see, it was necessary to cut
away part of the motor mount to accommodate the wheels.

More photos to follow....

-Jim
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Concordefan's Avatar
Canada, ON, Mississauga
Joined Feb 2006
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Hi Jim,

By looks of retracts they like B&D air retracts to me, these are very light since they are mostly constructed of plastic, i have same B&D retracts are on my DF Regal Eagle F15...Like like to have more pictures before i can look into installing retracts on my model...

Sammy
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Old Mar 10, 2006, 07:10 PM
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Jim Young's Avatar
Brighton, MI USA
Joined Jun 2000
1,892 Posts
Here's one more photo of the nose gear. Giff built this plate to support the nose gear and the nose fits over it.

-Jim
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