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Old Jun 04, 2007, 12:41 PM
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Darth_Elevator's Avatar
The Beautiful Mountains of Utah
Joined Oct 2006
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I flew the Wild Hawk this morning on the way to work and it flies much better with my rudder modifications. After 16 minutes of flight time, I brought it down just to check the battery and it still had 8.6 volts left. And that was without topping the battery off before flying. Seems like 20 minutes flights, or longer, would be pretty easy with some throttle management and a battery that's topped off right before flying.
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Old Jun 04, 2007, 09:47 PM
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skunkworks2006's Avatar
Michigan
Joined Nov 2006
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Hi all,
I've been reading through this thread and picked up a WH today at HF for $59 ! :-)
What would you do as far as prep or mods if you had to do it all over again?
What's your advice for a noob ? I'm a noob to this plane, not RC planes as I fly a HZ Super Cub and a PZ P-51 as well as a few homebuilt foamies.
where do I reinforce? etc...
Thanks
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Old Jun 05, 2007, 10:25 PM
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United States, IA, Cedar Rapids
Joined Apr 2006
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As a complete noob, I would suggest something obvious to everyone else. Don't use the stupid landing gear in front unless you're going to land on something really smooth. I hit grass with it and it tore a chunk out of the bottom of the plane. Being a complete moron, I flew it again on the next bad landing, it about tore the front off the plane.

I think I had problems initially with the elevator being set too low. It doesn't say anything about it in the direction, but I ended up turning the little threaded coupling piece and then setting it for maximum authority.

I have a lot of repairs to do now.
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Old Jun 06, 2007, 09:48 AM
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Michigan
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well, I had a couple of good flights this morning. It promises to be the only calm air for a few days and getting more windy as the day goes on. After the maiden flight in too windy conditions yesterday and snapping the nose off in an unintentional landing, I Gorilla Glued it last night. This morning it flew pretty well, but seemed tail heavy as others have mentioned. I split the foam seam at the nose and added about an ounce right near the tip. On the first flight this AM it proved to be too much with dumb thumbs and and I did a death-spiral from 20ft and broke the whole nose off again further forward. After some hot glue and strapping tape, I was back in buisiness. I moved the weight to the inside of the canopy as far forward as possible and managed to have some GREAT flight. I learned that this plane likes to be flown like a glider. It suffers from not enought rudder. And it is more responsive under power. I had 26 minutes of flight time today with throttle management and a few touch-and-go's (belly on the grass). I think that 30 is possible but not under power the entire time.
Seems to be a good buy for the $60 I paid, but definately likes a soft landing more than a hard one
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Old Jun 06, 2007, 08:24 PM
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United States, IA, Cedar Rapids
Joined Apr 2006
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Any suggestions on the best way to re-attach the nose? Epoxy? CF reinforcement? CA? Gorilla Glue? Something special for planes? Help!
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Old Jun 06, 2007, 09:46 PM
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The Beautiful Mountains of Utah
Joined Oct 2006
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I won't say this is the best way, or that there is a best way, but I used hot glue to seal up a crack that went halfway around the nose. After it cooled, I put strapping tape over it to reinforce it. I've used epoxy and CA on other planes and it seemed to work fine as well. I've heard of others using gorilla glue but I've never tried that myself. If weight was a serious factor, you'd probably want to see what's the lightest of all these, and then only use as much as you need to make it hold securely, but my Wild Hawk was tail heavy anyway so I didn't go sparingly on the hot glue.
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Old Jun 07, 2007, 12:36 AM
Micro Flyer "Q"
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United States, MD, Silver Spring
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On sale through the 25th of this month for $59.99
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Old Jun 07, 2007, 10:43 PM
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United States, PA, Canonsburg
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Rather than adding weight to the nose, you're better off moving the battery pack forward. I cut out the foam that keeps the battery from moving forward and when I put the battery in I push it forward until it gets snug. It was quite windy here today, yet I couldn't resist flying it. The wind penetration could be a little beter, but with such a bulky fuselage I got what I was expecting. I had it up in thermals off a small slope for well over 30 minutes without power can't beat that for $60 and 5 minutes assembly time. The only reason I brought it down was my neck was getting sore and the bright sky was starting to hurt my eyes. It does need more rudder control, when it slows down, you have almost no rudder control. I'm Thinking about gluing an extra inch or so of foam to the back of the rudder, or maybe I'll just make a whole new rudder with a lot more control surface area, hopefully that will help.
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Old Jun 07, 2007, 11:10 PM
Micro Flyer "Q"
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United States, MD, Silver Spring
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skysailor
Rather than adding weight to the nose, you're better off moving the battery pack forward. I cut out the foam that keeps the battery from moving forward and when I put the battery in I push it forward until it gets snug. It was quite windy here today, yet I couldn't resist flying it. The wind penetration could be a little beter, but with such a bulky fuselage I got what I was expecting. I had it up in thermals off a small slope for well over 30 minutes without power can't beat that for $60 and 5 minutes assembly time. The only reason I brought it down was my neck was getting sore and the bright sky was starting to hurt my eyes. It does need more rudder control, when it slows down, you have almost no rudder control. I'm Thinking about gluing an extra inch or so of foam to the back of the rudder, or maybe I'll just make a whole new rudder with a lot more control surface area, hopefully that will help.
A friend of mine added 3/4" to the rudder of his, and added one ounce of weight to the nose in the form of a "rock" we found at the field. It fitted the extra space in the nose perfectly. Don't know if it was one mod, the other or both in combination, but that WH flies superbly well. IMHO, it is the best RTF plane on the market for under $60.

BTW, the propeller supplied with it and its adapter are rather nice too.
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Old Jun 08, 2007, 07:59 AM
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Chesapeake Beach Md.
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I have been very happy with the WH. I only fly it on a larger field, since it needs more space than my usual baseball diamond field. I have found I need to site the fuse from the front for squareness with the wings and tail, and rudder before launch, sometimes giving a little twist or push to get it aligned. And be carefull of getting into strong wind gusts up high, over trees, going into the wind. If low on battery, it glides really well, mand can be a real bear to get back down.
MedCA and kicker, works great for repairs, and load the nose with packing tape.
Any nose in will crush the nose, and a wing tip crash will cause a loud crack, causing the CF tube to splinter. A 5/16's wood dowel cut 3 inches and centered fits tight into the rod, Sumo glue has held up so far. Got more than my moneys worth from kit.
Trick is not to crash it nose first. The battery ballast will crumple the hollow nose, everytime.
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Old Jun 08, 2007, 11:07 AM
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Michigan
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I added velcro to my Rx and Batt. This has been a comforting thing when the CG seems so important to success with the WH. I agree with Skysailor about moving the batt. forward. The velcro is especially nice when doing so.
I would love to hear more about the rudder mods people are doing, and pics too.
This bird is just dead without power-on inputs.
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Old Jun 08, 2007, 04:23 PM
Micro Flyer "Q"
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United States, MD, Silver Spring
Joined Sep 2003
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We've found out the fuse sides are "glued" together with the same double sided tape they provide for the horizontal and vertical stabs installation. We pried them apart (very carefully) and applied epoxy along the seam, and also used epoxy to install the horizontal and vertical in place.

One thing we found out at our field about the W-H early on is that its glide ratio is remarkably shallow, it takes forever for it to come down (good thing) . Another quirk (not a good one) is that if one leaves it in a hot vehicle it fuselage will bow like a banana if it hasn't been epoxied together. The wing tips tend to loose their "dihedral" and go flat if left inside a hot vehicle as well.

Both things happened to John's W-H. The fuse was straightened and epoxied together, The left wing panel had its dihedral restored by forcing it back while applying heat with a common hair dryer (no heat gun).

We also found out that by increasing the wing tip dihedral made an already nice flying machine, even nicer. All in all, we have five of them altogether, all have different degrees of rudder modifications (size and throws), but all were epoxied where they needed it most. We love them HF Wild Hawks.
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Old Jun 08, 2007, 05:40 PM
How do I change this text?
Darth_Elevator's Avatar
The Beautiful Mountains of Utah
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skunkworks2006
I would love to hear more about the rudder mods people are doing, and pics too.
Based on qban_flyer's post about his friend adding 3/4 inch to the rudder, I tried adding foam extensions to both the rudder and elevator. This mod, together with the rehinge mod that I did last week, has now made the controls very reliable. I cut out the foam lip in the cockpit and slid the battery as far forward as I could and CG seemed pretty good without adding dead weight.
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Old Jun 08, 2007, 09:57 PM
Micro Flyer "Q"
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United States, MD, Silver Spring
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth_Elevator
Based on qban_flyer's post about his friend adding 3/4 inch to the rudder, I tried adding foam extensions to both the rudder and elevator. This mod, together with the rehinge mod that I did last week, has now made the controls very reliable. I cut out the foam lip in the cockpit and slid the battery as far forward as I could and CG seemed pretty good without adding dead weight.
OOOPS!

You are right DE, I forgot to mention we cut the rudders and elevators off their respective surfaces and used 3M Blenderm (DUBRO) to hinge tape them back. It reduced their stiffness and make their movement much smoother, with less friction.

It certainly improved the WH's performace considerably. I bought another one today. I will use regular pinned hinges on that one.

PS, I like the way you did your E & R extensions. They look as if part of the original design!
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Old Jun 09, 2007, 11:47 AM
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Michigan
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Thanks for sharing, Darth. I like how you've kept the lines clean. I think I'll try something similiar, but maybe with red meat tray foam or maybe just paint it. Though the white doesn't look so bad either.
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