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Old Oct 18, 2007, 11:29 AM
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G_eronimo's Avatar
Near Koblenz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjwright
Here's how I modified my Long EZ Voyager with steerable nosegear, Tom.
I had to be attentive to clearance of the elevator servo and control horn immediately above this assembly ... or it would've been another example of my construction credo: "Any worth doing is worth doing twice."

PJ
Hello all,

I did that modification too, but a little bit different. My Voyager (R.i.P.) had the servo at first in the back, because I tried to get the wrong CoG.
Then I moved the servo up front, but diagonal to the steering wheel arm. The reason for this was, that I put in additional reinforcements on the spar, where the steering wheel is mounted to. And that limited the space for movement of the arm. But the connection between the servo and the steering arm has to be low enough for clearance to the elevator servo below the Elevator!
My first one did not have enough clearance and the wheel was steered by the elevator!

Uli
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Old Oct 18, 2007, 08:11 PM
Rhinebeck CD-99,00,01,02
Tom Smith's Avatar
New Bern, NC
Joined Mar 2001
2,941 Posts
PJ. Could I see a shot of the front landing gear under the plane. Did you use the stock gear leg with the swept back angle or bend something different? Tom
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Old Oct 18, 2007, 11:16 PM
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Ocala,Florida
Joined Sep 2005
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G Zero FX

the real reason I haven't done many arfs lately is because I'm having to much enjoyment out of coming up with my own designs. Here's yet another.this one will be a test for a twin boom design I sketched up. I'll tell you what though, it's dangerous to work at the HL craftstore for me,to many chuck gliders to buy and mod
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Old Oct 19, 2007, 06:33 AM
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Joined Jun 2005
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Uli, Thanks for showing your version of your Voyager sterrable nose gear. Does it fly to suit you? ACE, You really must make that twin boom fly! Hodges Fun Fly is coming up on the 27th. I will take the SSX and hope to see some of you there. Charles
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Old Oct 19, 2007, 06:43 PM
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Chattanooga
Joined Nov 2004
149 Posts
Long EZ Nosegear

Apologies for the lousy photos, Tom ... I'll try again in the daylight.
As you may be able to tell, I put three turns in the music wire, and I suspect two would be plenty for the weight being carried.
I soldered a washer to hold the MW in place against the bottom of the hardwood block, and did my best (?) to keep the wheel aligned with the pivot point of the gear. I filled the slot for the fixed gear with scrap balsa, and applied a small Monokote patch.
From the side, I described a gentle bend aft, with a slightly sharper bend to somewhat (!) emulate the scale LongEZ gear. If I had the patience to start over, I'd try and do a better job getting the side profile right.
The factory wheel is drilled for the 1/8" brass tubing shim that makes the 3/32" MW work ... it's smaller than the factory nosegear wire.
I discovered when all was done that the factory hardwood block that carries the nosegear wasn't 100% plumb ... and had to apply a dab of Polish Steam to straighten things out.
Satisfactory so far ... flying off asphalt with no hard load applied to the gear (yet).

PJ
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Old Oct 19, 2007, 09:21 PM
Rhinebeck CD-99,00,01,02
Tom Smith's Avatar
New Bern, NC
Joined Mar 2001
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Thanks PJ. Those pictrures will be sufficient. I abandoned the original gear block and drilled a hole just aft of that to line up with my Goldberg nose wheel mount that is bolted to a firewall glued to the rear of the front buklkhead. Added a pine block below that too with some triangle stock for added strength and to spread the landing loads over a broader area. I had 2.25 ounces of lead in the nose of my LEZ, and with the the stock nose gear, everything up front weighed 2.8 ounces.
Now, with a GWS 3002 servo under the canard like yours, the new mounting system, a new 1/8" music wire gear leg I bent, and a 2" Sullivan SkyLite nose wheel, I added exactly 2.8 ounces back to the nose, but now I have a steerable nosewheel.
Well, the epoxy is drying and I still have to insert the wire gear andmount the servo and pushrod, but the modification came out weighing the same as I it was before so my CG should stay spot on.
I stopped flying this thing because on our grass cow pasture runway, if the wind wasn't straight down the runway, my takeoffs were a bit scary. I will take a few photos of my setup tomorrow and post them. Thanks again for the inspiration. It truly is a nice flying model and now I can fly it no matter what the wind does. . Tom
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Old Oct 20, 2007, 01:06 AM
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Near Koblenz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canard addict
Uli, Thanks for showing your version of your Voyager sterrable nose gear. Does it fly to suit you?
Charles
Charles,

in post #1162 I told already the end of my Voyager-story. This picture is "historic", as there won't be any others from this plane. The rest of the fuselage and elevator went into the trashbin. Just the wings are left. This plane attracted disaster and planes like this are the reason, why people quit flying.
I will definitely not buy a new one. Maybe, if there is nothing else to do, I will build a new fuselage and an elevator.

But I already got a new 380 Long EZ. It is waiting in line to be build.

Uli
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Old Oct 20, 2007, 09:34 AM
Rhinebeck CD-99,00,01,02
Tom Smith's Avatar
New Bern, NC
Joined Mar 2001
2,941 Posts
Uli, the Voyager does have it's issues, but once worked out it is a very nice flyer. On all ARF's I assemble I go through them as best I can with thick ca and re-glue any and all joints that I can get at. So far, this has worked well for me. And I always beef up the landing gear mounting points because balsa or lite ply can not support the landing load imposed on these models, especially on grass fields. It would be nice if the manufactures did all this as they were building them, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Cooling vents is another big issue these manufacturers need to address. They sell us a "pretty" model that will be electric powered and generate heat from the motor, speed controler, and battery, yet there are seldom, if ever, any cool air inlets and exits. A real sore spot with me. Some don't even have the foresight to add easy battery access hatches and the wings have to be taken on and off to access the batteries. "Looking pretty" seems to be more important to them. I wish there was some way we could send them feed back about these issues, because if they are not aware of them, how in heavens name can they fix them.
Good luck with the 380 Long EZ when you get around to it. Tom
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Old Oct 20, 2007, 04:06 PM
Rhinebeck CD-99,00,01,02
Tom Smith's Avatar
New Bern, NC
Joined Mar 2001
2,941 Posts
Pj

Here are a few shots of my nose wheel steering mod. Only thing left to do is make up the pushrod and plug the servo into my AR6000 receiver. This mod puts the gear about 1/2" aft of the original. That should be fine, and I bent the gear back a bit to look more like the original setup. She'll fly again on Wednesday, weather permitting. Tom
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Old Oct 21, 2007, 12:53 AM
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Near Koblenz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Smith
I wish there was some way we could send them feed back about these issues, because if they are not aware of them, how in heavens name can they fix them.
Good luck with the 380 Long EZ when you get around to it. Tom
Hello Tom,

it is long way to China. How could they hear us?

All these issues you mentioned plus the non-steering frontwheel, prevent me from buying a new Voyager. With all the time spent for improving, I can build a new and better fuselage (which may not look that nice, but will survive a hard landing). And with all the bad experience I got with this bird, I would not like it either.

I already had a 380 Long EZ until the AR 6100 receiver decided to loose connection to the transmitter. It flew very nice.
Now I have spare wings, a spare canopy and a spare landing gear

I will post again here, when it is ready to fly.

Uli
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Old Oct 21, 2007, 07:30 AM
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Chattanooga
Joined Nov 2004
149 Posts
Tom's Techniques

That's a great solution, Tom! Appears strong, and relatively "easy" to install without all the fiddly work-arounds I did.
Good job!

PJ
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Old Oct 21, 2007, 08:49 AM
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Tom, Looks like you took all inputs form others and engineered a great set up. I am envious and must some day get around to adding one to mine. Thanks to all for showing us how. Uli, sorry again about your Voyager and I am glad you are determined to go ahead with the challenges to have something that is different from what the majority is flying. Charles
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Old Oct 21, 2007, 09:33 AM
Rhinebeck CD-99,00,01,02
Tom Smith's Avatar
New Bern, NC
Joined Mar 2001
2,941 Posts
Thanks guys. Your photos helped me easily figure it out. The stock nose gear block is very short and not glued in very well and the offset loads would have pulled it out of there very easily. Mine is epoxied to the rear of the front most former, which is plywood, plus triangle stock on both sides to beef up the contact area and a piece of 1/4 x 1/2 pine across the full width of the bottom with triangle stock behind that too. It is plenty sturdy now. I would have used a lighter wire for that front gear but 1/8" wire is what fit into the Goldberg mounting pieces so that is what I used. I didn't feel like making bushings for thinner wire. I was amazed that all the "stuff" I put into that steerable nose gear setup equaled the lead I installed in the nose and the old gear assembly exactly. Now the weight up there is functional, not just a hunk of lead doing nothing but to get the plane in balance. If the winds are down I just might take her out tomorrow. Tom
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Old Oct 21, 2007, 12:10 PM
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Joined Jun 2005
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EDF Long EZ

Hey, Look what I just found! http://www.daddyhobby.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26297
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Old Oct 21, 2007, 02:34 PM
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Joined Jun 2005
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Millennium SSX Final Trim

Originally,the main wing was set up at 1.5 degrees positive incidence which required half of the UP elevator trim for level flight. A 1/16"" shim was added under the main TE which brought the UP trim down to a couple of clicks. The main wing was still out lifting the canard which felt sluggish for elevation control. Instead of adding more shim to the Main TE, it was decided to add UP reflex to the ailerons which killed some lift and acted as elevon UP elevator at the rear. The ailerons were set at zero at the wing tip originally. The nose gear was set below the main LG to put the ailerons level with my drawing board. I then used a steel rule to measure difference in aileron heighth front to back. I tried for 1/16" difference but had to settle for 3/32" Up at the rear. The model now flys with neutral elevator with a light feeling to the canard which takes about equal effort to rise or fall. Before it seemed to sag and was slower to raise the nose. I cannot tell any difference with speed changes and the outside loops are still quick. Charles
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Last edited by canard addict; Nov 11, 2007 at 05:54 AM. Reason: Correct error in shim size
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