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Old Sep 30, 2008, 01:43 PM
89" Kool Aid drinker.
Smash McCrash's Avatar
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What a neat float plane!

Mike
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Old Sep 30, 2008, 06:45 PM
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Airboat, What a thing of beauty! I can't imagine that any other type of flying machine can surpass a canard as a personal water plane. The pilot sits on the CG and can have positive control of the nose for perfect approach angle. He looks like he loves his ship. Charles
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Old Oct 01, 2008, 08:09 AM
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Rutan Racers

Here is an interesting article found in the September issue of Aviation History. Charles
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Old Oct 01, 2008, 08:46 AM
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There are more Canard floatplanes and flyingboats/amphibians on the VULA pages...... Vintage Ultralight Asssociation....
The XTC seems to use foam ribs........plastic covering, anyone for a twin EDF version?
Just checked it out looks like they have shut off visual access charles....how do you fancy making representations to the chap .Seems like we are all interested in in seeing this stuff. I m off line myself due to life going ducks up.
Ive always linked stuff to the source but if no one can see the stuff nobodys going to pursue the interest to my mind.

2scott@bellsouth.net

(678) 290-0507

Atlanta, Georgia

Website: vula.org

Psst Pass the secret on, okay?.............. Gladly but we would like to see what its all about?
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Old Oct 03, 2008, 09:40 AM
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Try this from a uav link http://www.idaerospace.com/nishan.html and the gas turbine version.
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Old Oct 03, 2008, 11:10 AM
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Thank you, Airboat, Your contributions are always interesting. That canard looks fast! Charles
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Old Oct 08, 2008, 10:34 AM
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Try clearing the VULA link I havent time to ask at the moment.
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Old Oct 09, 2008, 07:02 PM
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The er, Mississippi Gander is coming along, should be done by the weekend. Thought I'd share a couple photos.

Mods that I made to the model: used a 1/8" square spruce spar in the top of both the canard and the wing, however I doubled the lower spar and used 1/8" X 1/4" spruce in both the wing and the canard. I also used 1/8" X 3/8" for the sides of "Frame A" as I used a 1/8 X 1/4 doubler along the upper longeron of the fuselage from forward of "A" to "B". This should have significantly increased the strength of the fuselage right at the front windshield post. Lower longerons strengthened with a 1/4" X 1/8" spruce strip from rear of canard to landing gear. Diagonals between the lower longerons from the canard back to the landing gear; 1/16" sheeting over the area of the battery access and then cut out the sheeting at the location of the diagonals for cooling. Radio Shack "rare earth magnet" holds the rear of the hatch closed as it has a balsa tab at the front.

More when I get done! Should still be under the 32 ounce target weight as RTF less battery before covering everything weighed in at 22 ounces.

Rube
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Old Oct 10, 2008, 01:51 PM
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Rube, What a thrill to see your Mississippi Gander with your own touches. I never build anything without doing it my way. I love the windows for four extra passengers. May I ask what power plant and wattage you are using? I also noticed that the battery is closer to the COG than mine is which will probably be a plus. As I said before, it is an honor for a serious design modeler like yourself to want one of my canards. Please let us know more as you progress. Charles
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Old Oct 11, 2008, 12:35 AM
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Charles!

Great to hear from you.

I've been calling it the "Mississippi Gander" just in my past couple posts....it is and will remain to myself and all that ask about it your design and the "Georgia Goose". Now, as for that "serious design modeler" comment, I sure aint that; I'm no kin to Carl Goldberg but since you've offered I'll take it as a compliment nonetheless.

For power---I'm going to use one my Richmodel R28C-1 "brushness motors that I've used in a bunch of stuff. Yep, these are no regular "brushless" motors, they are "brushness" motors. Says so right on the box. They've powered my parkjets, an ARF Ultimate bipe, and in tandem the (ill-fated) Richmodel P-38. They'll turn and APC 9X4.5 or 6 or a 10X5 without any problem. 150 watts is easy, around 190 watts they start getting a bit warm. Using a Richmoto 35A ESC, HS-55s for the ailerons and something else around here micro for the elevators and nose gear. Either a Berg 4 or a JR790UL as receiver.

Interesting you mention my battery placement being a bit aft of plan. Reason being the nose gear is a bit heavy duty as it was a recyclable from the aforementioned ill-fated P-38. It was already mounted to a ply plate that needed just a bit of trimming to fit the nose.....and I was too lazy to run down to the office and use the wire bender to make a new one. It's not real heavy, just that it doesn't have much (if any!) "give" to the spring coil. Having flown the little Richmodel Long-EZ that may not be a good thing as it seemed to need to be bent back forward after just about every landing. If I can slow the Goose down to a landing on the mains it shouldn't be a problem.

Got the winglets on the canard cut, covered and installed and covered the vertical stabs and installed them tonight. It's down to finishing the plates for the canard servos, making the pushrods for the canard and wing and lastly the windows and windshield.

I think she will fly come Sunday!

Question for you Charles: Any thoughts on control throws, I've used different wheels so I'd be interested in how your Goose sits with regard to either the bottom of the fuselage being level or the nose just slightly high---a Canard aircraft with a negative angle of attack is NOT a good thing!---and finally---flight performance?----slow flyer/old timer/sport/sportier?

Thanks again for the compliments, it has been a fun build and I'm most gracious for you sharing your design. Will follow up in the next day or so with final pictures of the build.

Best!

Dave, er, Rube
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Old Oct 11, 2008, 02:28 PM
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Dave, I like the bottom of the fuselage level with the ground. My control throws and horns are usually 1/2" in length and the TE of the surfaces move 3/8" to 1/2" total. Control is positive with lots of front end sensitivity. The model can be quick or slow. On landings, I like a fast idle with lots of control up front for smooth touch down. Please test fly in calm wind so that the canard wing will not tilt and catch the ground. In several years with 8 or 10 canards I have only removed the canard twice and each one was a 30 minute repair job. Please check that the wings are not twisted. It seems that on my design, one tip will turn down and the opposite one will turn up. I trust that your spar changes have helped. I have my Egret out today and it is always fun. Charles
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Old Oct 11, 2008, 02:32 PM
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Glade, I just remembered a promise to you and will try to keep it real soon. Charles
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Old Oct 13, 2008, 10:40 AM
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United States, CA, San Marcos
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Hi all. I am looking to resurrect the electrified version of my S-1 canard slope soaring sailplane. We have been chatting about it a little on this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post10715987. The debate is over whether to make the electrified version still primarily a sailplane, or to diverge and keep similar lines but make a fun sport airplane. I thought that my fellow canard fanatics may want to join the discussion. Please visit the thread and let me know what way you would like to see the S-1E go.

I don't want to hijack this thread, so please post your comments on the one linked above.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 13, 2008, 01:10 PM
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USA, IL, St Charles
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Charlie,

I just started building your D-Squared. I bought plans from you about a year ago, and it's finally up in the building que.

The main wing is done, and I have started the fuse. Will post some pics later.

Have you ever had any problems with the prop striking the ground? I was thinking about a folding prop, that would fold "Backwards" when the motor was off, just to reduce drag.

Did you use a pusher prop, or just run the motor in reverse?

Can't wait to fly her, never flown a canard b4, always interested in the unusual.
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Old Oct 13, 2008, 07:22 PM
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Steve, It's good to hear from you! Please put the 8" standard prop on your D Squared and run the motor in reverse. My prop clears the ground by 3 inches and has not been a concern. I suppose you will use the dual elevons? Please try to keep it light for slow landings. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Charles
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