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Old May 14, 2011, 05:09 AM
HyperFlight Support
Neil Stainton's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Stratford-upon-Avon
Joined Feb 2001
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Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
Neil, What do you think of a flap linkage setup like this? As said above I am reluctant to cut through the rear spar, and use a "bent" pushrod as shown in the build notes.
Not having built one I am not toally sure, but I do tend to agree that bottom actuated flaps will be a bit cleaner aerodynamically, and aesthetically will look more attractive.

Neil.
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Old May 14, 2011, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Monhty View Post
We made the first one as per the manual and the following 5 with top drive

Monhty
Monhty,
Did you build these Pulsar 3.2 s for Esprit, or are you building them for customers? Just wondered.
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Old May 15, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Espaņa, PM, Palma
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Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
Monhty,
Did you build these Pulsar 3.2 s for Esprit, or are you building them for customers? Just wondered.
Well Im half world away... to work for Esprit

they were my club mates' Pulsars and we have 3 more in the workshop

its the most popular model in our altitude-limited F5J competition

Monhty
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Old May 15, 2011, 11:35 AM
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thanks, Monhty . I wasn't sure where you are to be building all these Pulsars; I guess the UK?
So I will follow your advice and just go with a simple, top driven flap system, like the Esprit pic. Thanks for advice on the C of G, too.

A picture or two of your top-drive flap setup would be helpful..
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Old May 17, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Espaņa, PM, Palma
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Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
thanks, Monhty . I wasn't sure where you are to be building all these Pulsars; I guess the UK?
So I will follow your advice and just go with a simple, top driven flap system, like the Esprit pic. Thanks for advice on the C of G, too.

A picture or two of your top-drive flap setup would be helpful..
Well actually in old sunny Spain...

Here are some photos
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Old May 17, 2011, 11:19 AM
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thanks Monhty...in sunny Spain!

That looks like how I will do my flap linkage.

for some reason I can't zoom in on your pictures.
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Old May 17, 2011, 05:03 PM
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Espaņa, PM, Palma
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Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
thanks Monhty...in sunny Spain!

That looks like how I will do my flap linkage.

for some reason I can't zoom in on your pictures.
Sorry, now you can!

Stealing weight from here and there managed to get a 1383g AUW in our last 3200. Not bad coming from 1572g in our first one!

A low wing load works a treat in those dead calm heats!

Monhty
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Old May 17, 2011, 09:07 PM
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I will let you know what mine weighs. I have a pretty light power setup in it, just waiting for some light wiring to servos in tail. Did you wire up your rudder/elevator servos with a common +ve and -ve leads? I did this with my 2m Pulsar, so only four wires in the tail boom..+ve, -ve and the two signal wires.

Thanks for fixing the pics!
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Old May 18, 2011, 12:10 AM
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Espaņa, PM, Palma
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Yes I did use 4 thin wires to keep the tail as light as possible for the nose is too short (being designed for NiMh)

Even so I had to add 15g of lead

We are using MVVS 3.5/960 that peaks at 320W enough to reach 200m in 25-27 seconds

Monhty
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Old May 18, 2011, 07:09 AM
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Monhty,
Your MVVS motor comes in at 168 gms, here
http://www.puffinmodels.com/product.php?prod=723

Another Pulsar 3.2 builder on this thread (Flyboy320) used the MVVS 4.6/840 motor which weighs 206 gms, and said his Pulsar balanced out perfectly. His ATOW Flying weight is 1460 gms, a bit heavier than yours. His C of G is 88mm back from LE of wing. My two Hitec digi servos in tail are 14 gms each.

I am using a Neu 1110/1Y/6.7 motor (6.7 gearbox) which also weighs 206 gms. So I am hoping, my Pulsar will balance out, without adding weight to the nose.

This Neu motor setup, with CC100ESC and RFM 14.5X10S prop will put out, 726 watts in my Typhoon 2M on TP-3S-2250-45C Lipo. I will use a RFM 16X10 prop on the Pulsar though
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Old May 19, 2011, 03:13 PM
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Final flap configuration....almost.
I spoke to Zb at Esprit, who has built a lot of big Pulsars, and he said to "notch" the aluminum rod inside flap, for the control horn. So I drilled a hole in this internal aluminum rod, and trimmed fiberglass control horn, to insert into this hole.
Zb also recommended the Hitec HS5085MG servo for flaps. My other flap servo, sat too high in wing, blocked mounting wing flush on pod.

some pictures
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Old May 19, 2011, 07:26 PM
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So how did the flaps turn out, did you get a good amount of throw?
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Old May 19, 2011, 07:50 PM
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Flyboy320 wrote
Quote:
So how did the flaps turn out, did you get a good amount of throw?

still working on that. I haven't epoxied in the control horn yet, or the Servo. My receiver pack died, so I am recharging it to test the throw again. Zb at Esprit said you won't get 90 degree throw anyway, maybe 75 to 80 at best..
The conundrum is that if I make the control horn higher (so at 90 degree flap the linkage clears the aft wing), the aft clevis is higher off the flap, and it takes more linkage travel/per degree change in flap.
Make sense? Maybe cutting through the aft spar (as per the instructions) gives one more travel. How much throw do you have?

Anyway, my flying field is full of manure right now. I flew on Saturday, but a perfect approach (into long grass) floated, and a Pulsar was in the manure.



ps. what did you think of the TA vote?
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Old May 19, 2011, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
Flyboy320 wrote



Anyway, my flying field is full of manure right now. I flew on Saturday, but a perfect approach (into long grass) floated, and a Pulsar was in the manure.
Guess you call that a sh*tty landing...

I voted no....couldn't bear to sell out the new guys...

I think I get about 75-80 degrees, I find it's lots. I know how you feel about cutting into the spar, I didn't want to either, but couldn't get it to work any other way. Doesn't seem to have affected it in any way (well at least the spar hasn't cracked)!
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Old May 19, 2011, 07:59 PM
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Interesting results. The Pilots who would be most affected by the TA couldn't vote on it...the new hires.

As for the flap travel, at a certain point I will just decide I have "enough" travel (75 degrees?), reset the end points, check the elevator mix, and go flying

I find with the butterfly mix to flap I use, at say 75 degree flap, or more, my ailerons are extended, and the sailplane (Hyper 2.3, Purple Pulsar) just stops dead, in the air. So the airframe slows very well, without full flap anyway.
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