HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 10, 2006, 02:16 PM
Your attitude is your alt
Gary Morris's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennesse, United States
Joined Aug 2001
2,644 Posts
Build Log
E-Sky E-Smart 600 Class E-Copter build & Fly

E-Sky E-Smart 600 Size Build Log

For the past several days Iíve been building the new E-Sky E-Smart 600 class helicopter. This is a new product from E-Sky that will target those flyers wanting to get into the larger class of electric helicopters. The specs are listed below:

E-Sky E-Smart 600 Class helicopter

Length 1070mm
Height 370mm
Width 270mm
Main Blade Diameter 1185mm
Tail Blade Diameter 220mm
Motor Drive Gear 12T
Main Drive Gear 120T
Empty Weight 1600g
Battery 6S2P 4200ma or larger recommended
Suggested Servo Size Standard size servos


Electronics Installed

Hitec QPCM 7 Channel Receiver
Hitec HS- 635MG Servos
Futaba GY-401 Gyro
Jeti Spin 77 Speed Controller
UBEC High Voltage BEC
Flight Power EVO 20 5000ma 6S2P Lipoly pack

The frame is constructed of a lightweight aluminum, which provides a very rigid frame once the servos and motor are installed. The linkages are mechanical E-CCPM with linkages rods controlling the swash plate. Since Iím using a Hitec Eclipse 7 transmitter I set it up for 120 degree swash with 70% setting on channel 1, 2 and 100% on pitch, channel 6. The landing gear is attached to the frame using 4 metal screws and lock nuts. The entire frame is held together using these same locking nuts which precludes the need for loctite. The tail boom is pre-built with the belt drive installed and no adjustment was necessary other than installing it onto the frame. A very clever connection is made using hex shaped spacers that run through the boom and the plastic boom block is also hex shaped so that it secures the spacers in place. These spacers are also threaded so that metal screws can secure it to the frame members. A large gyro platform is provided which easily allows you to install any of the popular gyros on the market including the new 2100 and 6100 gyros from Logictech. I opted to use a standard Futaba GY-401 for this build. Blades are included in the kit an constructed of wood covered in a white shrink-wrap. I had to add a little weight to one blade in order to get them to balance. I may switch over to carbon blades after testing. Here are a few pictures using the HeliDirect pictures, I'll enclude pictures of my actual E-Smart as we go along.
Gary Morris is offline Find More Posts by Gary Morris
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 10, 2006, 02:40 PM
Your attitude is your alt
Gary Morris's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennesse, United States
Joined Aug 2001
2,644 Posts
Continuation of Build & Fly E-Smart

The motor is a generic E-Sky out runner rated at 50 amps maximum amp draw and 1200 RPM per volt. The instructions are very basic with little or no explanation and just a few exploded parts diagram pictures. There is and included addendum page with changes to the anti-rotation mechanism, which has apparently been added to this kit after the original kit, was manufactured. The linkage rod lengths were correct with the exception of two rods being the wrong length. Two additional rods were incorrect and this was probably due to a packing error. I am using the Jeti Spin 77 Amp controller for this project, which allows much more adjustment by the user, and in addition it provides on board data logging. This should help a great deal since it shows motor run time, highest temperature of ESC, starting temperature of ESC, starting and ending voltage max amp draw and whether any errors were recorded during the flight. There was a problem with one of the aluminum collars that secures the main shaft and one-way bearing which required me to remove approximately 1 Ĺ mm of material on the collar in order for the hole to line up so that a screw can hold the main shaft onto the one-way bearing. Additionally the standoff spacers provided for the servo mounting were incorrectly listed in the manual and I had to fabricate four spacers for one of the servos so that the linkages would line up correctly without binding. The canopy appears to be made of and injected molded plastic and the windshield is made of clear smoked plastic. The windshield is attached to the canopy using 4 small course thread metal screws and this attachment method appears to work well. The included decals are the stick on type however they do not stick to the surface very well since it has a matt finish and is not perfectly smooth. I would guess that painting the canopy would be difficult because the paint probably wonít stick to the plastic. Installation of the servos is time consuming since some of the parts are difficult to hold in place while installing the servos in the frame. The linkage rods that connect the back swash plate are a little difficult to install since they are located inside of the frame and there is not much room to work. After completing the build there was some binding noted which required that some of the ball links be resized in order to reduce the binding. The anti-rotation device was also binding and required filing the inside of the part so that it would work smoothly. Here are a few more pictures of the servos, Spin 77, gyro and receiver platform. Using the Evo 6S2P pack it was easy to get the proper center of gravity position by moving the pack forwards and backwards as needed. It also appears that changing the battery to charge and fly can be done without removing the canopy. This can be accomplished by just sliding the battery into the bottom opening of the helicopter and then attaching your favorite type of tie-downs. This should help because save time since the canopy takes a little time to get installed because it has four fasteners, two on each side to hold it in place. The supplied E-Sky brushless out runner motor when attached to the motor mounting plate pressed against the top of the frame causing binding. I used the included aluminum washers under the motor so that it raised it up 1mm, enough to clear the frame. There appears to be ample space for gear mesh adjustment and I adjusted for minimal gear lash. Since the motor has very strong magnets it is not recommended you try to spin the blades backwards because of the cogging effect of the magnets, this could cause gear damage if you try to force it in a reverse rotation.
You can expect to spend several evenings building your new E-Sky E-Smart helicopter so take your time and enjoy the build. Since the frame is complete along with the tail boom and belt drive, the majority of your build time will be spent building up the head, installation of servos and electronics and installing the decals and cutting out the windscreen for the canopy. I strongly suggest you invest in a digital caliper so that you can make the critical measurements for the linkage rods, fly bar location and servo arm measurements. You will also need a good set of hex head Allen wrenches, Phillips screwdrivers, pitch gauge, and a socket set in small mm sizes. Since you will be soldering the electronics, i.e., speed controller, and UBEC youíll also need a good soldering iron of at least 50-Watt size and a smaller 25-30 watt iron. If you donít have a good selection of wire ties you may want to pick up a few packages of small and medium sized ties. Stick on Velcro will also aid in holding your battery in place in addition to Velcro ties.
Gary Morris is offline Find More Posts by Gary Morris
Last edited by Gary Morris; Dec 10, 2006 at 02:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 02:47 PM
Your attitude is your alt
Gary Morris's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennesse, United States
Joined Aug 2001
2,644 Posts
Continuation of Build & Fly E-Smart post 3

Today I flew the E-Smart and did a little trimming. The helicopter only required a little forward trim, blade tracking was spot on. With the included Evo 20 5000ma 6S2P pack it's easy to slide it back and forth to get a good CG and the battery had plenty of power to spare. I am anxious to get it out in a larger field to do some fast circuits and stall turns. In addition I will need to add more negative expo to tone down the sensitivity of the controls. I started out using -15% on the aileron and elevator servos, I will probably increase it to -25%. I'll keep you posted on how things progress.

Gary Morris
Gary Morris is offline Find More Posts by Gary Morris
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 02:51 PM
Registered User
PetruSoroaga's Avatar
Bellevue,WA
Joined Jun 2006
447 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Morris
Today I flew the E-Smart and did a little trimming. The helicopter only required a little forward trim, blade tracking was spot on. With the included Evo 20 5000ma 6S2P pack it's easy to slide it back and forth to get a good CG and the battery had plenty of power to spare. I am anxious to get it out in a larger field to do some fast circuits and stall turns. In addition I will need to add more negative expo to tone down the sensitivity of the controls. I started out using -15% on the aileron and elevator servos, I will probably increase it to -25%. I'll keep you posted on how things progress.

Gary Morris
Shouldn't you add positive expo to reduce sensitivity around middle stick?
Negative expo would increase the sensitivity around middle stick.
I mean, that's what an exponential function graph would look like.

Petru
PetruSoroaga is offline Find More Posts by PetruSoroaga
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 02:53 PM
Your attitude is your alt
Gary Morris's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennesse, United States
Joined Aug 2001
2,644 Posts
Using the Hitec radio it's the opposite, on Futaba your absolutely correct.

Gary
Gary Morris is offline Find More Posts by Gary Morris
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 02:57 PM
Registered User
laughingstill's Avatar
Gainesville, Florida
Joined Sep 2006
2,945 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PetruSoroaga
Shouldn't you add positive expo to reduce sensitivity around middle stick?
Negative expo would increase the sensitivity around middle stick.
I mean, that's what an exponential function graph would look like.

Petru
I agree, check your manual before adjusting. I would hate for you to crash that nice brand new heli because of that!
laughingstill is offline Find More Posts by laughingstill
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 03:02 PM
Isaiah 40:31
Rare Bear's Avatar
Joined Mar 2006
1,468 Posts
More pics, Gary!! I want to see the Smart w/ the canopy on - all dressed up!!

Awesome build thread - keep it up!!

God bless - "Rare"
Rare Bear is offline Find More Posts by Rare Bear
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 03:18 PM
Your attitude is your alt
Gary Morris's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennesse, United States
Joined Aug 2001
2,644 Posts
As I said, with Hitec you use a negative number to reduce throws around center stick, on Futaba you use positive numbers just backasswards from Hitec. I'll take more picture and do a video when the weather is better here. It's been windy here and overcast, not good for pictures or video.

Gary
Gary Morris is offline Find More Posts by Gary Morris
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 03:23 PM
North Central Positronics
badbill's Avatar
USA, GA, Centerville
Joined Dec 2002
3,303 Posts
Futaba AND Hitec use negative expo to reduce sensitivity around nuetral. JR uses positive expo for the same affect.

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
badbill is offline Find More Posts by badbill
RCG Plus Member
Old Dec 10, 2006, 03:25 PM
volts x amps = watts.
Wheelhaus's Avatar
Denver
Joined Sep 2006
2,143 Posts
"positive or negative" changes simply by how you apply the curve to the graph. A positive expo on the input is the same as negative expo on the output. the curve will look the same.
Wheelhaus is offline Find More Posts by Wheelhaus
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 03:32 PM
North Central Positronics
badbill's Avatar
USA, GA, Centerville
Joined Dec 2002
3,303 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by badbill
Futaba AND Hitec use negative expo to reduce sensitivity around nuetral. JR uses positive expo for the same affect.

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
What I'm reffering to above is the screen display- For softer around nuetral with Hitec and Futaba, dial a negative number. ( IE, a - MInus mark in front of it ) For JR, a positive number is displayed on the screen.

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
badbill is offline Find More Posts by badbill
RCG Plus Member
Old Dec 10, 2006, 04:52 PM
Registered User
PetruSoroaga's Avatar
Bellevue,WA
Joined Jun 2006
447 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelhaus
"positive or negative" changes simply by how you apply the curve to the graph. A positive expo on the input is the same as negative expo on the output. the curve will look the same.
That makes sense. I was not aware of such differences between radios.
I expected the expo to be applied on the input not on the output

Now for some videos of the bird flying.

Have fun,
Petru
PetruSoroaga is offline Find More Posts by PetruSoroaga
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 05:01 PM
Renewed interest
ozace's Avatar
Melbourne , Australia
Joined Jun 2002
8,950 Posts
More pics!
ozace is offline Find More Posts by ozace
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 05:10 PM
Suspended Account
Redding, Ca
Joined Nov 2005
5,040 Posts
So thiis thing takes 600mm blades?
Nick J is offline Find More Posts by Nick J
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 10, 2006, 05:19 PM
Your attitude is your alt
Gary Morris's Avatar
Nashville Metro, Tennesse, United States
Joined Aug 2001
2,644 Posts
It appears it will, it comes with 550's on it and there's plenty of room for 50 more mm. I think I'm going to put some carbons on it later on after I get more flight time on the bird. It also comes with carbon frame, and full metal head and swash.

Gary
Gary Morris is offline Find More Posts by Gary Morris
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build Log E-Sky E-Smart 600 series build thread PLATINUM Large Electric Helis 7312 Sep 12, 2012 03:18 PM
Video E-Sky E-Smart 600 cyclic test/setup vid PLATINUM Electric Heli Talk 1 Mar 03, 2008 01:40 PM
Discussion Time to upgrade: T-Rex 450SA vs Dragonus II N-PLUS / HDX 500 vs E-Smart 600? Likestofly Mini Helis 31 Dec 15, 2007 09:11 PM
Alert E-sky E-smart 600 $185 PLATINUM Mini Helis 0 Jul 13, 2007 01:26 PM
AIAA Design/build/fly competition (or how to combine water and high voltage E-flight) FlightofSong High Performance 32 May 07, 2004 11:58 AM