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Old Sep 12, 2002, 05:02 PM
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Leicester England
Joined Jun 2001
591 Posts
Food dye

Nice Pitts, but why food dye? Just paint it with Acrylic paint? Its waterproof, flexible, water based, cheap and there are lots of colours.
Water it down just a little and it does not add much weight either.

What the indoor world needs is a new prop. for the geared KPOO and poly cells

If you use foam for the kit you could print the colour scheme onto the foam like Ikara do with thier super looking profile rubber power indoor machines.

Maybe the new machine will be a D/F 13" span Mig 15??

Mark
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Old Sep 12, 2002, 06:08 PM
Just an average RC'er
Jim McPherson's Avatar
Laurel, Maryland USA
Joined Aug 2000
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Dan, even though I've already cut out the pitts, I'll too sign up for a laser cut TM and Pitts. Could I get a little clarification on the dying process? I've got my parts cut out, now how do I color them? Areonutz: is the acrylic paint you refer to "water color"? If not could you describe it so I can find it over here on the other side of the pond? Thanks much! Oh... and Chris: This plan/e is FANTASTIC!! I hope you make out well after generously giving out these plans.

-Jim
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Old Sep 12, 2002, 06:41 PM
DNA
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NE Ohio
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Jim,

Get the acrylic paint in the Walmart craft section for 44 cents
a bottle. Great for foam too. Thin and brush on or air brush spray on.
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Old Sep 12, 2002, 08:40 PM
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gerico's Avatar
Carlsbad, CA
Joined Sep 2001
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Dan,

Think the Pitts would work if built of "meat tray" foam?
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Old Sep 12, 2002, 08:55 PM
Just an average RC'er
Jim McPherson's Avatar
Laurel, Maryland USA
Joined Aug 2000
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Ok, I'm building mine, I found a good tip. When constructing the fuse, lay a horizontal strip of 1/32n'd balsa across the inside front bottom of the fuse to help it hold togther while the gule dries. MUCH easier this way.

-Jim
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Old Sep 12, 2002, 11:16 PM
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New Paltz, NY, USA
Joined Apr 2001
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Thanks Mark, I just used dye because I thought it was probably the lightest way to color the wood - once the water evaporates, there's very little left behind. I don't mean to suggest it's the best method, but it seemed to work out pretty well for me. That said, I would, as others suggest, use a more permanent fabric dye on my next one.

Jim, if you're using dye, just dilute it (and test it on some scrap wood to make sure you get the desired coverage) and paint it on with a paint brush. Put it on pretty heavy, and when you have the coverage, wipe off the excess, sandwich it between some tissues and place it under a book or something to dry over night. Without the weight, the parts would warp a bit.

A word of caution for anyone dying wood - don't sandwich it between paper towel. The quilts in the towel will absorb more dye out of the wood, and you'll end up with a slight pattern. It happened to me, although it wasn't terribly noticeable once the stripes were on.

And good tip, Jim. You could glue the strip right in place to reinforce the joint - just make sure it doesn't go right to the front edge, where the former F1 (or the former formerly known as F1, sorry, couldn't help myself... ;c) will go.

Gerico, I don't see why it wouldn't work. I'd measure the weight of your foam, compare it to 1/32 balsa, and enlarge the plan a bit if it's moderately heavier. Of course, you'll have to compensate for the increased thickness in all the parts.
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Old Sep 12, 2002, 11:18 PM
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New Paltz, NY, USA
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BTW, it's great to hear people are starting to build the plane. It makes the effort in putting the plan and construction notes together well worth it.
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 08:09 AM
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Berlin, Germany
Joined Aug 2002
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Oh man, I think I will also need these precutted kits, because I do not have very much free time to cut all these parts out, and also I think it would turn out much better that if I would do that!
Dan, do you also ship to Germany??? If yes, how much would that cost???? Hmhmhm, I have to get these planes!!! Thanks again, Chris!!!
Alex
PS: I bet you started the next project, eh????????????
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 08:12 AM
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Buffalo, New York
Joined Jan 2002
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Alex,
Yes we do ship to Germany but I don't have the kits yet it's going to be a few weeks at best and probably closer to a month before they are available.

Dan
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 08:37 AM
in persuit of low wing loading
Gordon Johnson's Avatar
Boston, Mass
Joined May 2001
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In terms of dye versus paint or other method, the answer is probably to do some test pieces of balsa. Some time back Chris suggested artist spray markers to me. That's what I used on my Dr1. I did test pieces, and on the final weighed before and after. The spray markers added virtually no weight, but were hard to get an even coat (thin spray) and are not cheap. When I did my Road Kill Spitfire I weighed before and after painting and was amazed at how much weight it added. So, Chris' choice of dye is a good one as coloring 1/32 contest grade balsa with paint can add more weight than you think relative to the weight of the balsa. Maybe a better dye is the way to go. If you use acrylic (I haven't gotten around to that yet) I'd suggest testing it on some bare wood first, and thin it down a lot. This will also help you guage how thick to put it on. As we move toward more scale micro planes one of the biggest problems is how to add scale detail without adding too much weight. Aeronutz Mark, however, has known this for a long time.

If I didn't have so many unfinished projects, I'd be cutting balsa for a Pitts with you guys.

Gordon
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 09:15 AM
DNA
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NE Ohio
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I bought these at Walmart last year and tried using them on
foam which didn't work since it couldn't penetrate the surface.
But they work great on paper and wood.

http://www.villagestreetwear.com/noname270.html
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 09:48 AM
in persuit of low wing loading
Gordon Johnson's Avatar
Boston, Mass
Joined May 2001
6,426 Posts
DNA,

Great find. They look like they would do something similar to spray markers, but a lot lot cheaper. I'll have to get some of these. Course Tria Panatone spray markers come in something like 290 different colors. You would not believe how many different olive greens they have and how many shades of red.

BTW, for anyone interested in the spray markers, they can be found at Currys, which is the source Chris told me about.

Gordon
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 10:46 AM
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San Mateo, CA
Joined Mar 2002
26 Posts
Wallpaper insulation foam Pitts

Gerico,
You might find 2mm Wallpaper insulation foam better - the aeronutz chaps build some amazing planes with it (http://www.aeronutz.flyer.co.uk/materials.htm). I'm building a couple of micro moths (one balsa, on foam), and the foam one is about half the weight, and much easier to form the compound curves with. It even comes with an airofoil section because the foam comes in a roll.

Great work Chris!!
Martin
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 01:18 PM
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Berlin, Germany
Joined Aug 2002
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@Dan: Yeah, I know that. Can you tell me the prices when they're available (including shipping - shouldn't be too expensive because it's so light, eh?)???? Hm, hm, but you don't have submicro RXs on 35 MHz???? Hmhmhm.... what would you recommend as electronics for these two (Micro Moth and Micro Pitts)???? I looked on your site - seems all to be affordable for me as a student, but the rx frequency.... Maybe I should look around for submicro RXs here...? Thanks anyway, also to Chris!!!!
Alex
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Old Sep 13, 2002, 01:38 PM
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MSC Rödinghausen, Germany
Joined Feb 2001
954 Posts
Alex,

look in my Guided Mite thread how the rx problem can be solved in Europe. It includes some soldering of SMD parts and some PIC programming, but it works.

Regards, Jochen
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