|Dec 07, 2006, 02:12 AM|
A good first plane and radio set up #3
Which plane should you buy as your first plane ??? If I were teaching one of my sons to fly today, I would have his first trainer either be an EPP delta like the EPP Roswell, or an EPP flying wing like the EPP Assassin. I would buddy cord with him to help him fly without having an accident and I would have him spend time on one of the simulators until he feels comfortable with the controls.
As you look at the videos remember that some of theses simple planes are being flown by advanced flyers. The Capricorn and the UFO Roswell Delta for example are easy to fly slow in flat and level flight. In both of these videos I'm the pilot and I tend like to do aerobatics even when I'm flying a trainer.
I like flying wings because there they are so simple and the motor is in the back. My new Assassin is designed for beginners. Notice the launch and catch in the video.
This is a Capricorn. It is very inexpensive to build. It is a plane that I think may be ahead of most of the other planes for beginners. I am so impressed with how gentle it flies that I have wrote a building tutorial for the plane to help beginners that need help building a plane. Look here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=898958&page=2
There are those who disagree with me.
I have had several flyers remind me that the GWS Slowstick has been a standard of the industry for beginners who don't have help available. I have owned one and have seen many flyers learn to fly with a Slowstick. Slowsticks are slower and if set up right are easy to learn on. They are relatively inexpensive. Nation wide they are probably the #1 trainer airplane. There ae at least 9 threads and possibly more with owners and interrested parties discussing the Slowstick on RCGroups alone.
Here is a list of those links in post #1 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...07136&page=560
They are not able to take the abuse that the EPP planes can take. If you do start with a Slowstick convert it to a brushless motor like the BP 21 that comes with a mount that can be used on the Slowstick. The Slowstick comes with a brushed motor. Don't spend any money on any old technology brushed motor set ups. None of the flyers in our group are still using brushed motors. They are heavy, wear out quickly and don't have as much power for their weight. It comes in different colors.
GWS Slowstick (4 min 19 sec) (4 min 19 sec)(4 min 19 sec) (4 min 19 sec)
I know several people that learned to fly on power gliders. A good example is the Easy Star. There might be as many as 1,000,000 visits to all the threads and sites for this plane. I would guess it is one of the most popular of all time. These are slow flying foam planes. Here is a list of 23 old threads that give information on the Easy Star.
Here is a site where they can be purchased or seen.
There are many videos including this video at:
EZ Easy hand launch and crash, with some catching =) (3 min 57 sec) (3 min 57 sec)(3 min 57 sec) (3 min 57 sec)
Just for fun .... if you were to fly the B2 Stealth Bomber flying wing at the same scale cruise speed of our brushless 36" Assassin, (75MPH with a 36" wingspan) it would be going 4275 mph or mach 5.6. Our top recorded scale speed would be mach 7.1 at 5415 mph on the B2. This is 11x faster than the actual B2 can fly. The SR71 can only fly mach 3.2 or 2435 mph.
To toughen your wing for combat
Remember your plane needs to stay as light as possible. Each of these methods for reinforcing the plane adds a little weight and when all combined the plane my be as strong as a tank and fly just like one. Think light!!!!!
Make everything is repairable at the flying field including the quick changing of servos battery and radio. The deeper you bury the radio the harder it is to fix.
The 36" flying wing uses one 14" carbon flat spar across the bottom but our 48"-60" flying wings have 3 fiberglass rods on both top and bottom of the wing working together like an I beam to give the strength needed for combat. Both are reinforced by a double layer top and bottom of 1" packing tape across the prop cutout where most damage occurs.
In a head on impact the plane can tear the trailing edge around the motor if there is not both forward and rear reinforcement. We have started using a Shock Cord around the outside edge of all of our wings. This cord is in a small slit and glued in place. Layers of strapping tape and laminate also add to the overall strength.
The EPP foam will help protect your battery and radio if you bury them in the EPP foam and secure them so they can't eject in an accident. Design the cutouts in the EPP foam to protect your investment. We try to build with no empty space in the wing so the wing can't collapse on the empty space.
To balance the flying wings we have put the batteries and radio close to the front of the plane. We have learned to turn the lithium battery with the side facing forward to protect the wire connections and the more fragile edges and end of the battery cells whenever possible. In some planes it is not practical to turn the battery sideways but in combat planes it may save your battery.
We include a UV shielded laminate covering in all of our kits. This laminate adds strength and also protects the foam and the reinforced tape from UV rays that yellow and dry out the tape. It is crystal clear when applied so some trim is recommended so you can see your plane in the air. The foam does not need to be sprayed with a spray adhesive for the laminate to stick like it does if you use Ultra coat or colored packing tape.
I like my servos and radio accessible and easy to inspect and change. I install them in cutouts in the EPP foam, secure them with a small amount of hot glue on the surface that can be easily removed usually on the top of the wing where they are less likely to get knocked out in combat or thrown out in 'high G" maneuvers. They are not screwed in. Make the servo cutouts smaller than the servos so they have to be pressed in. If they are loose it will make your flight surfaces flutter. Some flyers build compartments in the bottom of the wing to contain all of the radio gear so their planes look better. It's all personal preference.
I like my control rods and clevises exposed so they won't bind. Internal rods look better but can loose leverage and bend and allow the elevons to flutter at higher speeds and break servo gears in collisions. They also can put drag on the linkage making it hard for the servo to center and use more battery power. You should be able to move the elevon with the radio off and have the servo move in both directions.
The rods and hinges should not flex or have any free play. We have had several planes with hinge problems. We have seen the hinges tear or pull loose. I recommend making a hinge by taping the entire length of the elevon with a strip of bidirectional reinforced tape covered with a layer of laminate to protect it from the UV rays both top and bottom.
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