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Old Dec 14, 2006, 11:21 PM
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Joined Mar 2005
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I got the new servo today to replace my busted pitch servo that came with my CX2 in the original box. Horizon tech support took the proper steps to make me happy by not wasting too much of my time and keeping me grounded for as little as possible.

EVERYTHING WORKS NOW! This chopper flies pretty well. I upgraded the inner shaft to the aluminum head and also upgraded to the aluminum bearing that fits on the top of the outer shaft.

The CX2 is really easy to take apart and put back together. E-flight really thought of everything when it came to making a quality micro-heli.

I got the Police body mod. It looks great. The original red looks cool too but I wanted to salut the donut eaters.

I can't wait to get the alumium swash and lower head, which are currently on back order from Horizon.

It would be a nice option if Horizon sold the CX2 with all of the blue-anodized aluminum parts installed. The plastic parts are kind of crappy.

My little Yorkie digs the CX2. I thought that she would be afraid of the thing, but she actually enjoys watching it fly around the room. Maybe I should get a mini-Yorkie that can fit in the CX2 cockpit?

-Base
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 03:16 AM
Free Flying
anci3nt's Avatar
Joined Nov 2006
525 Posts
BCX2 Review

Finally got a chance to play with the BCX2. Here's my review...

Out of the box it had massive 'toilet bowl effect'. Tail was quite twitchy. Flybar seemed very loose in the holder. Tightened the flybar screw to make up the play. Both blades were a little off balance, and corrected them with some tape. I think balancing the lower blades had the most effect on reducing TBE, however it was still slightly present. Decided to adjust the pots. I think the best way to set the pots is lower the gain completely and adjust the trim pot till it's as perfect as can be. Play with the gain, slowly increasing it and watch it do solid tail locks, however slight tail drift still seemed to always be present. Lowered the gain completely and left it. I actually like it without any gain - I feel more in touch with the heli. TBE was now minimal. Response was very slow so I moved the servo arms out to the middle notch (two notches out), but that was way too much and I actually had a blade clash on a quick side-to-side maneuver. The upper/lower blades are closer together than the Lama, so I might have to tone down my 'extreme' maneuvering. Moved the servo arm back one notch (one up from stock) and think that's the best place for it. Removed the weights from the flybar so it took that 'inertia' feel away and like it like that. I might trim the flybar distance down like I did on my Lama and see how it takes it.

Overall it looks and feels like a higher quality heli than the Lama. Is it worth the extra cash over the Lama... Still on the fence with that, but the DSM no-glitch setup leans me to yes, BCX2. There's less play in movable parts, design and manufacturing seem more solid. It's slightly quieter than the Lama, as the Lama also has a slight metalic whine to it. Removing the tail canopy makes it even quieter (and a nice bit lighter). The new DSM tx/rx was awesome! No glitches at all! I love the stubby antenna. I don't care the way the batteries load in the heli, but that will be fixed when stersman's skids and CF tail boom come in - I want to use all my leftover Lama batteries that don't fit in the BCX2 battery carriage. Alternative is to just tape, velcro, or rubber-band them but I don't want to have to mess around with CG placement right now. Installed the motor heatsink and it did well in dissipating some heat - I recommend everyone putting one in. It's a good idea to use the thermal grease. Left the other aluminum parts in the box until something breaks or I want to experiment them in. I prefer the breakaway blade setup and literal breakaway flybar the Lama has. Blades seem to get nicked much easier than the Lama. I might remove the flybar screw later to let the flybar breakaway on crash instead of bending in place, which I have to then take out anyway to straighten. I haven't spent enough time on it to see if the 4-in-1 debated heat issue is a problem for my setup.

That's it for now, until I find something worth noting! Now if someone could only design a co-axial that could go inverted......
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 02:37 PM
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Joined May 2006
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ok so i actually flew this thing last night. flew decent but i have to mess with the drift a bit. now for my stupid question of the day. it spins, left/right and backwards smooth as hell. how can i adjust it to go forward? even with the trim all the way up and full stick it barley wants to go.
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 03:54 PM
Mom says I'm special...
beafraid8's Avatar
Aurora, CO
Joined Apr 2003
2,562 Posts
I broke down and bought one last night.

First flight I trimmed it out and adjusted the proportional and gain.

Second flight I was doing fast (this is a relative term!) figure-8's around the living room!

I just went and bought two more packs for it! This thing is fun!

I bet I have over 50 flights logged by the end of the weekend.

The funny thing is, I've been buying my helis in reverse-order and buying the tougher helis first!

So now I've got:

PiccoZ
Blade CX2
Blade CPP (upgraded from a BCP)
Maxir SE
T-Rex SE

In January I'll have been flying helis for one year exactly...
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 03:57 PM
Mom says I'm special...
beafraid8's Avatar
Aurora, CO
Joined Apr 2003
2,562 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy367
ok so i actually flew this thing last night. flew decent but i have to mess with the drift a bit. now for my stupid question of the day. it spins, left/right and backwards smooth as hell. how can i adjust it to go forward? even with the trim all the way up and full stick it barley wants to go.
Is your battery all the way forward? Is the swash level when the right stick is centered?
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 05:19 PM
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monkeywrencher's Avatar
Mendocino,CA
Joined Nov 2006
41 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by beafraid8
Is your battery all the way forward? Is the swash level when the right stick is centered?
I have the same problem. 1 crash and everything is a little tweaked. As I am clueless, how is the best way to determine whether my flybar is tweaked?
It appears as though the heli is shaking a little bit more on initial power up.
Should I try and adjust the servo linkage?

This is a bit daunting as this is day 2 with my first ever heli...
Help..
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 06:43 PM
Just Keeping UP
United States, ID, Moyie Springs
Joined May 2004
1,771 Posts
monkeywrencher, adjusting the pushrods will have no effect on vibration. Don't touch them!

Vibration means that a spinning part is out of balance. Something is bent, or broke. You must inspect the BCX closely to find it.

The flybar must be straight. Unless you've bent it real bad, it should be easy to straighten it.

Nicks and broken blades will cause vibration. A bent rotor shaft will cause vibration. Finding a bent shaft usually requires disassembly.

There are two reasons to adjust the pushrods: you want faster control response (less stability) or you've run out of trim adjustment on the right stick.

Once you have the BCX holding a stable hover, look at the right stick trims, if they are close to center, don't adjust the pushrods. If the trims are far off center, or you can't get enough trim to hold a stable hover, then adjust the pushrod lengths.

Nick
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 07:29 PM
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Mendocino,CA
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfhill
monkeywrencher, adjusting the pushrods will have no effect on vibration. Don't touch them!

Vibration means that a spinning part is out of balance. Something is bent, or broke. You must inspect the BCX closely to find it.

The flybar must be straight. Unless you've bent it real bad, it should be easy to straighten it.

Nicks and broken blades will cause vibration. A bent rotor shaft will cause vibration. Finding a bent shaft usually requires disassembly.

There are two reasons to adjust the pushrods: you want faster control response (less stability) or you've run out of trim adjustment on the right stick.

Once you have the BCX holding a stable hover, look at the right stick trims, if they are close to center, don't adjust the pushrods. If the trims are far off center, or you can't get enough trim to hold a stable hover, then adjust the pushrod lengths.

Nick
Nick I visually can't see a bend in the flybar. After the crash (Pretty minor I thought, basically ran into the car bumper) everything went wacky. I replaced one of the top blades which was nicked and I tried to adjust the linkage, which to be perfectly honest I can't see if the blades are out of track.
I even pushed the trim all the way forward and it still flys back at me.
If I have the right stick neutral it would fly straight back at me.
My first reaction was that maybe I bent the rotor shaft but I don't know if I hit hard enough for that and I am a bit reluctant to pull out the rotor shaft, (I know I will eventually ).
Considering it's day 2 I'm already a little too familiar with the parts than I would like to be Also no one would ever mistake me for an engineer so I appreciate the help!

Pat
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 07:47 PM
Lean is Mean
xtreme's Avatar
L.I. NY
Joined Dec 2003
158 Posts
Hey Pat
Check the swash plate. It may have seperated which would cause the sypmtoms you are experiencing.

Joe
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 09:06 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
87 Posts
I just found this note for those having a loose 4-in-1:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=EFLH1250
Quote:
Blade CX2 RTF Elec Coaxial Heli Bulletins
11/27/2006

There have been a few reports that the 4-in-1 control unit on some Blade CX2 models has been pulled away from the 2-sided mounting tape that secures it to the mounting tab on the main frame.

If you find this to be the case for your model, simply re-secure the 4-in-1 control unit by pressing it firmly against the mounting tape or foam padding, while keeping it approximately parallel and flush to the left side of the mounting tab (as shown on page 16 in the manual).

If you find that the 4-in-1 control unit will not stay secured on the mounting tape or foam padding, remove the cable/zip tie from the motor and servo wire leads to relieve tension on the 4-in-1, and/or replace the 2-sided mounting tape and foam padding with a new piece. Additional cable/zip ties and 2-sided mounting tape can be found in the included Mounting Accessories & Screwdriver bag if needed.

For any additional questions or concerns regarding this bulletin, please contact Product Support directly at 877-504-0233.
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 09:13 PM
2012 ZX14R ....faster than you
CCbusa05's Avatar
USA, NV, Carson City
Joined Sep 2006
1,792 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtreme
Hey Pat
Check the swash plate. It may have seperated which would cause the sypmtoms you are experiencing.

Joe
Also make sure one (or both) of the main rotor blade pins didn't break.
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Old Dec 15, 2006, 10:35 PM
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Joined May 2006
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well i found out that the battery was getting caught so it asnt all the way forward. that fixed it a little. i started doing touch and goes on a snack table in my living room. i got good at it and thought i can do a fast one. i missed the table and went hell bent down the stairs and broke the top bar off the heli. off to the hobby shop tommorrow i guess
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Old Dec 16, 2006, 12:55 AM
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Joined Jun 2006
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Hi everyone! Let me give you a little of a different perspective. I am a CX2 owner and also a Hobby Shop owner. I was actually one of the first to fly the cx2 in my area as I opened the boxes when they got to the shop. After multiple flights with the cx I couldnít wait to get my hands on the cx2. Unfortunately after hundreds of flights the only things that we have found different from the cx to the cx2 is the radio(DSM), gain pot, and body. I am a huge fan of the DSM so that alone made me jump on the cx2.

My initial experience and upgrades:
I was like a kid on Christmas morning when I was opening the box. I already had batteries from the cx charged and got it ready to fly within 60 seconds. I didnít worry about binding the radio as it was already. I took it off and flew it around. I was really impressed with how stable mine was right out of the box. The tail started drifting towards the end of the first battery. I pulled the front canopy off and adjusted the pot and had it stable and non tail rotating in less then a min.

Let me say with my cx2 being a ďdemoĒ in the shop puts a little more damage on it then most typical people, plus when we are slow in the shop we get a little crazy with what we try. But there is nothing like having someone that has NEVER flown before try flying it. Some people get it amazingly fast others no chance. I might hook up the training cord to another radio to save some damage .

I was actually the first to break something on it and it was the top off of the inner shaft immediately replaced with the alum one (link)

Next the lower blade mount went when I was doing landings and touch and goes on a 4 inch square box that was about 4 feet tall. Lets just say one of the skids hit but not the other. Replaced the lower mount with the MicroHeli alum one (link). I love this mount looks great and works great. By the way the stock screws from your broken lower mount will work in the alum mount so you donít have to use those absurdly small setscrews.

Up next will be the MicroHeli alum swash plate (link). I havenít broke this just yet but I know it is coming! Eflight will have their own out in late January (link) for slightly less then the Microheli one. I donít like the finish look of it as compared to the other. I am sure will work fine.

I would have included blades in this list but that goes without saying. Only other injury was actually to my hand from saving a customer from his own flying, it took a small bit out of my hand.

I love this heli! It has made me want to fly it. I bought another charger so I could have lots of fun!

With the CX2 I really only suggest people buy a second battery and extra blades before they leave the shop. We also try to get people to open the box and let us show them how to fly and trim the tail.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Corey
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Old Dec 16, 2006, 12:09 PM
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monkeywrencher's Avatar
Mendocino,CA
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCbusa05
Also make sure one (or both) of the main rotor blade pins didn't break.
Thanks for the input.. I am doing visuals of everything. Two great resources for me have been Aeronuts' breakdown page and the Blade CX Mod page which I believe 3vw did (Outstanding resources BTW-Kudos guys!.)
Unfortunately I haven't been found a schematic which identifies the parts as they sit I have been looking at the parts list in the manual. Any info where a newbie could go? I'm getting it slowly but for me a pic is worth a thousand words...
Thanks again..
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Old Dec 16, 2006, 01:34 PM
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Joined May 2006
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ugg, ok so im about to make a great deal to anyone. the replacement upper rotor shaft seemed to be out of round from the package. i thought it looked ok on runup thinking that maybe i just was looking at it wrong. well i was right on takeoff it shot out of control and now i have to change 2 blades. im thinking with all the trouble i have had with heli's the last year i should just cut the line and take my losses. so if someon wants a cx2 slightly used and a cp pro fully decked out also slightly used but never crashed pm me.
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