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Old May 05, 2012, 08:54 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
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No go with the overload check. She's a still spinning. Would a re-bind help? I have the DX6i. People have told me a re-bind sometimes help shake the webs out. Dunno.

Mike
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Old May 05, 2012, 09:12 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
No go with the overload check. She's a still spinning. Would a re-bind help? I have the DX6i. People have told me a re-bind sometimes help shake the webs out. Dunno.

Mike
too bad I am not an electronician ... I have no idea how to be of any productive use with regards to your problem Mike

but somehow there has to be excessive current from a certain throttle stick position ... so something must have gotten loose or disconnected in the board IŽd say
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Old May 05, 2012, 09:50 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
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Thanks Sven. That re-bind didn't help. I could almost put the 72mhz back on her. IMHO, I think Esky bricks are more robust. Seems like these 1024 bricks break if you look at them wrong.

Since I have the DX6i now, is there another choice of RX out there that I can mount to my V4? I got the EFLH1024 brick because it would bind to the HP6DSM at that time.

Man, I'm bummed

Mike.
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Old May 05, 2012, 10:52 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Thanks Sven. That re-bind didn't help. I could almost put the 72mhz back on her. IMHO, I think Esky bricks are more robust. Seems like these 1024 bricks break if you look at them wrong.

Since I have the DX6i now, is there another choice of RX out there that I can mount to my V4? I got the EFLH1024 brick because it would bind to the HP6DSM at that time.

Man, I'm bummed

Mike.
but you not even 100% sure yet it is the RX .. or in other words - its prolly not the RX, its the 3in1 part ...
I mean, I am going to fly (if I actually do that again other than for demo purpose)
my V4 with the Turnigy 9X ... as well as the BOL (its 100% plug and play, you just need a RX [7$] for the T9X) ... what you need is a 3in1 that works with the DSM(2) RX ...

or you just go "separates" as well ... RX, ESC, mixer, gyro ... is prolly close to the same price as a new ELFH1024 ...
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Old May 05, 2012, 11:35 AM
Fly em if ya got em.
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Winder Ga
Joined Sep 2008
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Mike, you are not a newbie. I have been through this with them too many times to count. Just because the blades spin the right way, does not make it right. Switch them and reverse the polarity for me bro. It will fly then. Lee
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Old May 05, 2012, 12:36 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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Originally Posted by leethetreeguy View Post
Mike, you are not a newbie. I have been through this with them too many times to count. Just because the blades spin the right way, does not make it right. Switch them and reverse the polarity for me bro. It will fly then. Lee
Dude, YOU DA MAN I had my front motor plugged into the top of the brick and back motor on the bottom. How do you say...Not paying attention

If you were here, I'd give you a big bear hug

Mike.
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Old May 05, 2012, 02:22 PM
Fly em if ya got em.
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Winder Ga
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Hahahaha, glad to hear it brother. Now, Happy Flyin.
Lee
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Old May 05, 2012, 03:49 PM
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Outstanding call Lee!
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:23 PM
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i upgraded my cx2 ...now it slides hard on power-up

got all the aluminum and graphite goodies installed and now it looks the bomb!

BUT during the parts transfer i had to remove the right side bell crank off the servo. while i was at it i moved the linkage rods one more hole out. now its in hole #2 from the screw.

tried to put the bel crank back on as close to where it was...but may be off one tooth.

if i leave the trims set at zero and power up it wants to lean hard right.

is there a way to adjust this out ? with out having to keep playing "hit or miss"
on the bell crank screw?
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:50 PM
Fly em if ya got em.
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Winder Ga
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If I remember right? It is something like three clicks of trim equals one revolution of the linkage. But, it has been awile.
Lee
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Old May 05, 2012, 09:09 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
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Originally Posted by mozeppa View Post
got all the aluminum and graphite goodies installed and now it looks the bomb!

BUT during the parts transfer i had to remove the right side bell crank off the servo. while i was at it i moved the linkage rods one more hole out. now its in hole #2 from the screw.

tried to put the bel crank back on as close to where it was...but may be off one tooth.

if i leave the trims set at zero and power up it wants to lean hard right.

is there a way to adjust this out ? with out having to keep playing "hit or miss"
on the bell crank screw?
Follow this link and scroll down to "Klondike's Swashplate Leveling Tutorial."
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727689

Power your heli up first, then "place" the servo arm in the sprocket. If it looks level, power down and tighten screw. Always apply opposite pressure on the servo arm while tightening the screw.

Mike.
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Old May 05, 2012, 10:54 PM
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United States, NC, Monroe
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Okay, spent the day at Carowinds and its too windy out and too small indoors, so coupla questions...
Even though I bought the upgraded extended shaft to help prevent blade strikes, I wouldn't know a blade strike unless it struck me in the face(let's hope this doesn't happen literally). So what exactly is a blade strike, how do I spot one, and how does it effect performance?

Also, let's talk pot trimming and drifting. I find that when hovering I have the left/right trim on the left stick all the way right and have to just barely push right. For the right stick when hovering I have the forward trim about halfway and the strafe(?) trim slight right with the stick pushed barely forward and moderately left. When adjusting for either, do I need to unplug the battery and/or turn off the Tx? If so, what are the consequences of not doing so?

Unfortunately, I don't know all the lingo yet and don't exactly know what stick controls what action....i.e. rudder, elevator, etc...So, sorry for my ignorance upfront.
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Old May 05, 2012, 11:52 PM
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Blade strike is where the opposing blades strike each other. Usually when the heli is in a radical move or a gust of wind nails it outside allowing the top blade to come into the path of the lower blade. You usually hear a clack and your heli drops out of the sky like a stone.
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Old May 06, 2012, 06:59 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eolson View Post
Okay, spent the day at Carowinds and its too windy out and too small indoors, so coupla questions...
Even though I bought the upgraded extended shaft to help prevent blade strikes, I wouldn't know a blade strike unless it struck me in the face(let's hope this doesn't happen literally). So what exactly is a blade strike, how do I spot one, and how does it effect performance?

Also, let's talk pot trimming and drifting. I find that when hovering I have the left/right trim on the left stick all the way right and have to just barely push right. For the right stick when hovering I have the forward trim about halfway and the strafe(?) trim slight right with the stick pushed barely forward and moderately left. When adjusting for either, do I need to unplug the battery and/or turn off the Tx? If so, what are the consequences of not doing so?

Unfortunately, I don't know all the lingo yet and don't exactly know what stick controls what action....i.e. rudder, elevator, etc...So, sorry for my ignorance upfront.
If you bought this heli new, you have an operator's manual that describes what stick does what. If you don't know what stick does what, how can you adjust the sliders underneath them? If you have left stick bottom slider to the right, it should be spinning because that controls the rudder. It makes the tail/ heli turn either right or left. The right/ left of the right stick makes the heli slide to the left or right - without turning. You can move the sliders while power is applied and if the heli is in the air while you make these slight adjustments, you should see an immediate effect.
DO NOT adjust the pots on the 3-in-1 unless you are having specific problems that they would address. You aren't even sure what the sticks control, so, you keep crashing. If you don't know what they control, you had better not mess more with the heli until you know EXACTLY what you're doing. Adjusting the pots may take you to the point of no return.
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Old May 06, 2012, 08:28 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
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eolson, Go back to my post #7121 and read up on the swash leveling. As far as the pots go,,,...very simple...

Increase your "Gain" until your heli gets "Tail Wag". "Tail Wag" is when the tail of the heli moves quickly back and forth. Now decrease the "Gain" until your heli is smooth. This adjustment can be done with the power on.

Next, adjust your "Proportional" pot and, your heli should be hovering fairly well at this point. If your heli turns "on it's axis" (Not sliding) CCW or CW you'll have to make a "Prop" adjustment (this is like a Yaw adjustment). If your heli spins (usually slowly) in a CCW spin. Land. Power down. Turn the "Prop" screw "CW" to counter this CCW spin (or visa-versa). Power up for the new adjustment to take place. Fly and try. Both the "Gain" and "Proportional" (Prop) adjustment must be made in "very" small increments. Many advise the thickness (or a tad more) of the screwdriver you are using. Don't forget to center your trims after each adjustment of the "Prop." No worries with the "Gain."

I must mention while "trimming out" your heli, "always" use a fresh battery

Hope this helps. I'm sure if I forgot something the Guys will correct me. Good luck.

Mike.
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