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Old Apr 21, 2012, 07:28 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by eolson View Post
CA is cyano acrylate I take it?
Looks like I'll have to get the entire flybar, the weights don't appear to be store separately.
Yes. Basically any fast drying glue that contains that chemical compound.

PM me your address. I can send you a weight until you move up to a better flybar. No big deal, Mike's RC shop is always open I never had a stock flybar weight pop out on me....in fact, I found them to be a big PITA to get off.

Mike.
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Old Apr 21, 2012, 08:00 PM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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Come on, Uncle Mike, it's time for that shortened flybar.
If you fly forward any distance with a stock flybar, there is a phenomenon known as porpoising. The heli will fly forward about 10 feet, stop and level, go ahead 10 feet, etc. The way out of this is a shorter flybar. If you get one like Boomtown has, it comes with adjustable weights that can be moved to give you any length flybar you'd like.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 09:29 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
Come on, Uncle Mike, it's time for that shortened flybar.
If you fly forward any distance with a stock flybar, there is a phenomenon known as porpoising. The heli will fly forward about 10 feet, stop and level, go ahead 10 feet, etc. The way out of this is a shorter flybar. If you get one like Boomtown has, it comes with adjustable weights that can be moved to give you any length flybar you'd like.
True, eolson should be going for a shortened flybar. BUT, I could get that tiny weight to him in a couple days in N.C. and it only takes two seconds to pop it on. Besides he'll need it anyway in case he wants to go back to the stock flybar in a pinch.

@eolsonIn time, when you find some bullet weights (or similar) you can make your own "shortened" flybar by cutting off the ends of the stock flybar. This is what I did but, to be honest, it bent pretty easy because the stock material (flybar) is much thinner.

Mike.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
True, eolson should be going for a shortened flybar. BUT, I could get that tiny weight to him in a couple days in N.C. and it only takes two seconds to pop it on. Besides he'll need it anyway in case he wants to go back to the stock flybar in a pinch.
Mike.
If the weather wasn't so , you could make a banzai trip down and deliver it personally.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 01:55 PM
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United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
One thing I have to mention here. I hate this method. It is hard enough to fly, and now you are flying in ground effect. Most guys I train, I get them up much higher. At least 4 to 5ft. Why? To get around ground effect and give them time to react before the heli hits the ground. If a heli is well setup, self hovering and stable. Doing this you will build confidence much quicker. I teach them to get it up this high, then practice left to right and back. Forward and back. Also best done in a larger room to eliminate prop draft, or outside on a non windy day. Again, Do the close to the ground flying in a small room and not only will you have terrible ground effect but severe buffeting from prop induced currents in the room that will throw the heli around in anything less than 4 to 5ft high.

Just something to think about. And another opinion.

Keep it close to the ground in ground effect mode and it is hard to fly. For anyone. For a newbie the heli now acts unpredictibly. Not good. So, from this point. I disagree with Radds.
A big part of RADD takes place before you ever lift off. Testing the sticks to get a feel of what they do, the sensitivity, orientation of movement, spin ups and spin downs,etc. takes place on the ground and he does not let you leave the one foot box during this stuff. I can see that although I never did it persay. Hovering in ground effect.... well I only do that when I am landing and for as short a time as possible! Take off's are popped up quickly to get up and away from it asap. Good advice about avoiding hovering in ground effect here.... imho.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 02:09 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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I just kept going back to the VFW hall with a fist full of stock blades until "I got it." I don't miss those days changing out stock blades with that stupid "L" shaped 1.5mm hex tool Then I discovered the "driver" 1.5mm tool...which was very, very bad. I could now change out "twice" as many broken blades much faster

Mike.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
I just kept going back to the VFW hall with a fist full of stock blades until "I got it."
Mike.
So, the ol' VFW hall took the hit for all of your crashes?!!!
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 07:11 PM
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United States, NC, Monroe
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Okay then. Flybar suggestions anyone?

-Ed
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 08:03 PM
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United States, NC, Monroe
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Can someone explain how the length of the fly bar effects performance or flight stability?
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 08:13 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by eolson View Post
Can someone explain how the length of the fly bar effects performance or flight stability?
dont go longer than stock!

generally:
the longer the flybar, the more stable/docile, the more self correcting
the shorter the flybar, the more squirrely/agile, the less self correcting

with the weights it is:
the heavier the weights, the more stable (until you get TOO heavy)

also, the closer the weights are to the center hub, the less stable it gets.

And a short flybar with heavy weights will act the same as a longer flybar with lighter weights (but please dont ask me for a ratio, I dont know one ...)
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 08:29 PM
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United States, NC, Monroe
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Thanks for the flybar 101.....
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 09:22 PM
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Pineville, LA
Joined Dec 2006
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You could also make your own by cutting the same amount off each end and using a couple of collars with set screws on each end for weights. I picked up the collars from the local hobby shop. I think I cut mine to about 6.75" overall length. You could always make it just a hair under the stock flybar and adjust the collars to get the stability you want.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 10:20 PM
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United States, NC, Monroe
Joined Mar 2012
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Right on. I just ordered the Pro Flybar set from Boomtown, as well as a LiPo battery monitor. While I'm waiting I could try the collar method, at least until the new ones arrive.
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 10:24 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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A while ago I did my own flybars with the Xtreme center hub and Skytec weights. Now Miracle Mart sells a (new and improved ?? .) flybar for all the Esky helis in the V4 class (which I will get in the mail in the near future).
I think the weights are the same they use for the Solo Pro 328 flybar and they are sold there separately.
http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=8447
What they seem to have improved is the actual center hub and the fact that you dont have to use a 2piece (ie 2 rods) flybar anymore - now it is ONE CF rod all the way through (which eliminates one of the former "preferred breaking points, right at the center hub - I guess ... ...)

Apart from the price this may well be the most interesting flybar to come along for the V4 class helis in a VERY long time ...
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Old Apr 22, 2012, 10:27 PM
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United States, NC, Monroe
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V4?
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