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Old Mar 21, 2012, 12:53 PM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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Thanks Chap...will do.

Will that proportional setting change settings on ail/elev too?
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 09:36 PM
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United States, PA, Clarks Summit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGS2010 View Post
Thanks Chap...will do.

Will that proportional setting change settings on ail/elev too?
No, the proportional pot will only affect the speed of the top and bottom rotors which in turn controls the left and right turning of the heli. If one rotor is turning faster than the other it will cause the heli to turn, so you would adjust the proportional setting to correct that unwanted tendency to turn while the rudder stick is in neutral.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:20 PM
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More on my Blade CX2 problems.....

Its draco1245 with my CX2 problem again

I tried adjusting the position of the battery, making it as centered as possible and that didnt do much. You mentioned also that helis will drift slightly anyway. It did do that before but it doesnt even compare to what is happening now it is a seriously dramatic pull forward and to the left.

ANYBODY HAVE ANY ADVICE?

If you want to read the first post here it is (I'm too lazy to repost it here)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1616619
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:32 PM
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If you want it to fly good in the forward direction, it is GOOD to have it wanting to track forward. Not many of us want to hover all of our lives. Try adjusting the transmitter so you have less of a left drift. Take off the canopy and watch how the servos move as you give it more or less of the slider to correct this tendency. Once you see which servo and which direction it need to move, adjust the servo link to copy that movement. If moving the slider makes the servo move up, the equivalent thing to do is make that servo arm longer by a complete turn at a time so the servo doesn't actually have to move that amount to give you what you want. Keep adjusting until it doesn't act that way anymore. I say you want it moving forward, but if it's more than what you want, again, adjust the servo link to make it the way you want it. Remember, if you keep track of which link and how many turns you've moved it, if it's not what you had intended, you can always go back.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:37 PM
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draco1245 View Post
Its draco1245 with my CX2 problem again

I tried adjusting the position of the battery, making it as centered as possible and that didnt do much. You mentioned also that helis will drift slightly anyway. It did do that before but it doesnt even compare to what is happening now it is a seriously dramatic pull forward and to the left.

ANYBODY HAVE ANY ADVICE?

If you want to read the first post here it is (I'm too lazy to repost it here)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1616619
Here is a tutorial on swash plate leveling. "Klondikes Swashplate Leveling Tutorial." :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727689
Scroll down to the the "Tuning" section. Leveling the swash is very easy. "Everything" is based upon looking at your heli from the rear..."Always."

I think you'll find the swash plate tutorial very helpful. A boring read but, a "must read"...

Mike.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:42 PM
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Thanks Chap1012 and kodak_jack

I'll try both of your techniques and I'll be back if I still have a problem.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 03:05 AM
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A Question about servo pushrods..

I recently put blade grips on my CX2 and the V1 Extreme blades...

Suffice it to say that I guess I'm not that good yet. I couldn't keep acceptable control - seems like the Extreme blades had too much lift and my slow reaction time caused a lot of overcorrecting on my part...

Anyway, I took those off for now and reinstalled my original CX2 blades. Much better!

I was leveling the swash plate (although, until tonight when reading a thread about that, I didn't know that was what it was called!) and when I removed the pushrod from the servo horn, I noticed that the pushrod seems quite tight in the hole.

Is this correct? It seems with the dogleg bend, it could be not sloppy, but not tight enough to cause any measurable resistance?

Seems the more free it is, the easier for the servo to do it's job more easily and smoothly.

Thanks for your help!
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 07:51 AM
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When you put the blades on the pivoting grips, did you tighten them down tight? They should be able to pivot so they also self-align. If they're too tight, you've defeated their purpose.
The links should snap on the swash so they don't fall off, but not be tight enough that they restrict movement. I have never read of a servo rod end being too tight. The only thing that comes to mind is that the links are directional, so to speak. They are meant to only go on one way. If you are adjusting the link to correct a problem, they have to be adjusted in full turn increments. If you turn the link 180 Degrees, it will not push on very easily and should not be forced on.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 10:25 AM
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United States, MA, Malden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dicknite View Post
I recently put blade grips on my CX2 and the V1 Extreme blades...

Suffice it to say that I guess I'm not that good yet. I couldn't keep acceptable control - seems like the Extreme blades had too much lift and my slow reaction time caused a lot of overcorrecting on my part...

Anyway, I took those off for now and reinstalled my original CX2 blades. Much better!

I was leveling the swash plate (although, until tonight when reading a thread about that, I didn't know that was what it was called!) and when I removed the pushrod from the servo horn, I noticed that the pushrod seems quite tight in the hole.

Is this correct? It seems with the dogleg bend, it could be not sloppy, but not tight enough to cause any measurable resistance?

Seems the more free it is, the easier for the servo to do it's job more easily and smoothly.

Thanks for your help!
There is no need to remove the "entire" link to adjust the swash. Just pop off the link where it attaches to the swash plate ball and turn it in, or turn it out. Turning it in makes the link shorter. Turning it out makes the link longer. When you are done leveling your swash plate "mechanically"...the swash should look 90* to the main shaft like this "L". Bottom part of "L" is the swash

This is just a starting point as you will "probably" need to fine tune it. Either "mechanically" (a bit more) OR with your TX trims.

Mike.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 12:47 PM
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Hey!

I guess I kind of mis-spoke (and, I didn't even know I was in politics!).

The reason I had taken the pushrod out of the servo rod was to move it out one hole. Then I had to level the swashplate.... The "tightness" I am curious about is the pushrod going through the nylon (plastic?) servo horn (arm?) as it seems quite tight...

As for the tightness of the V1 blades, when installing them I tightened down until they resisted movement, then backed off until they moved with slight pressure - not loose, but they straightened out almost immediately when increasing RPM.

I will probably leave the originals (bought a 20 pack or something...) on until I am more capable, then try again.

Thanks for the replies.

Dick
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 01:24 PM
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Hi Dick, Gotcha. What you need to do is hold the servo arm tight so it doesn't move up and down, and remove the screw holding it to the servo. What I did/do is take a pointy head Xacto blade and carefully drill or round out the hole. Do this from both sides until the the rod slips through. You don't want it too tight or too loose.

A good way to determine the tightness of blades in a grip. On my V4 which have folding blade grips, I extend the blades out fully. Hold the heli with the nose pointed toward the floor. The blades should hold that position until you give the heli a nice easy jerk toward the floor. The blades should now fold.

Mike.
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Hi Dick, Gotcha. What you need to do is hold the servo arm tight so it doesn't move up and down, and remove the screw holding it to the servo. What I did/do is take a pointy head Xacto blade and carefully drill or round out the hole. Do this from both sides until the the rod slips through. You don't want it too tight or too loose.

A good way to determine the tightness of blades in a grip. On my V4 which have folding blade grips, I extend the blades out fully. Hold the heli with the nose pointed toward the floor. The blades should hold that position until you give the heli a nice easy jerk toward the floor. The blades should now fold.

Mike.
Excellent! Thanks for the tips!
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 04:43 PM
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United States, VT, Hartford
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Replace 4 in 1 with 3 in 1?

Lots of posts here to chew through, so I may have missed where my question has already been discussed.

I have a cx2 with a bunch of the Microheli upgrades, upper head, swash and lower head. Xtreme 180's are on the way. I plan on blade grips and some body mods eventually.
It has a 4 in1 unit. Is it a waste of money to replace with an AR6115 or AR6200, an Eflite G90, and a 3 in 1? My idea is to be able to use my Dx6i with it. I'm not really digging the stok transmitter.
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 04:55 PM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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Houston, Texas
Joined Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paulie_m View Post
Lots of posts here to chew through, so I may have missed where my question has already been discussed.

I have a cx2 with a bunch of the Microheli upgrades, upper head, swash and lower head. Xtreme 180's are on the way. I plan on blade grips and some body mods eventually.
It has a 4 in1 unit. Is it a waste of money to replace with an AR6115 or AR6200, an Eflite G90, and a 3 in 1? My idea is to be able to use my Dx6i with it. I'm not really digging the stok transmitter.
I'm using my DX6i with my CX2 and it is all stock. Just inhibit your gyro in TX settings.

Russ
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RGS2010 View Post
I'm using my DX6i with my CX2 and it is all stock. Just inhibit your gyro in TX settings.

Russ
Is that possible on the 4 in 1? Some say yes, some say no.
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