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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:23 PM
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I would consider each transmitter a separate entity and it doesn't matter to the heli or plane or whatever it is bound to. You can fly a Champ with the video game controller transmitter it comes with as well as a DX6i or whatever. Not only do you get a better transmitter to fly the Champ, but it has a greater range than the video game controller transmitter - no charge!
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 02:44 AM
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United States, WA, Spokane
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Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
using the 450 flybar is really a GREAT idea! Congrats!

however, the HK ones are extremely soft... you can bend them like nothing... IMHO, get the Align ones or even the Align steeled ones and you will notice the huge difference immediately (I stopped using the HK shafts in my 450 because they can get bend just during transport if you are not always very careful with them)

EDIT: the HK flybar shafts I got (and I ordered a couple of them over the course of 1 1/2 year) have apparently not been tempered steel
Pretty much why they laid in my parts collection as emergancy backups till I spotted them again. The ones I cut up were tempered. Took forever to cut through the rod. And I have piled up the heli a dozen times in the last two days. It is how I roll. Actually it is a fast little bugger since it sports seriously lightened flybar weights and the 55deg blades. So in showing off to my friends I have repeatedly made a few,,, um,,, errors in judgement we might say.

so either the ones I bought last were tempered, or the new ones arent, or the ones you bought weren't, and now are? hehe.

At least I know the flybar rods work and it is a cheap alternative, even if they are align or tarot. Shoot, wish I would have seen your post earlier as I ordered a mess of stuff from hk today for a friends airplane build I am building for him, and would have ordered one more 450pro shaft for a comparison.
I certainly don't want to be putting bad info out. And Olli, I should have the new vtail heli up and flying as soon as you lay out the programming procedure with the new HK programming kit for a flight compare inbetween it and your gyromixer. I will prep two nearly identical helis for the test.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 11:52 PM
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Well, I hope this is the correct place to post this...

I have a CX2 and am trying to change out the lower rotor head.

I have the lower large drive gear removed and it seems the inner shaft should simply slide out of the outer shaft. It is solid as a rock.

There is no c-clip or anything like that on the bearing inside the outer shaft that the inner shaft resides in, but it seems to be "stuck" there..

Maybe I am missing something. Is there some other retainer for the inner shaft other than the lower gear collar?

Thanks for any assistance - and if I should be posting this elsewhere, please don't hesitate to point me in the right direction!

Thanks!
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dicknite View Post
Well, I hope this is the correct place to post this...

I have a CX2 and am trying to change out the lower rotor head.

I have the lower large drive gear removed and it seems the inner shaft should simply slide out of the outer shaft. It is solid as a rock.

There is no c-clip or anything like that on the bearing inside the outer shaft that the inner shaft resides in, but it seems to be "stuck" there..

Maybe I am missing something. Is there some other retainer for the inner shaft other than the lower gear collar?

Thanks for any assistance - and if I should be posting this elsewhere, please don't hesitate to point me in the right direction!

Thanks!
I am not completely sure if I visualize this right, but if you try to pull the inner shaft out through the bottom, you would need to remove the upper rotor head. In stock form, the plastic upper rotorhead is basically fixed to the inner shaft. You would need an aluminum upper head - and that would have to be taken off to pull the inner shaft through the bottom. As far as I remember (without having a heli in front of me right now) the best way is to pull the inner shaft out to the top.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 02:03 AM
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Thanks erdnuckel2!

After I posted that, I went back and tried again - this time with the assistance of some long-nose pliers.

The inner shaft came out through the top, like it is supposed to, it simply needed some encouragement! Seems maybe the shaft was adhered somehow to the inner race of the lower bearing. Put the pliers above the upper grear housing next to the shaft and on the end of the shaft - with a little squeeze, the shaft popped loose and came out without an argument.

Thanks to this forum and the PDF I downloaded from here, it seemed it should just slide out - it did!

Now I have to wait till tomorrow (wife is in bed...) to fly it and get it all trimmed again -

I put in an extended inner shaft, new aluminum rotor heads, carbon fiber blade grips (after buying them, saw a couple of not-so-rave reviews of them - hope my mileage varies from that), new extreme V1 blades, a graphite tail boom, extreme skid kit, battery mount, and canopy.

Pretty sure it will need some trimming.

Thanks for your help!

Dick
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 07:03 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dicknite View Post
I put in an extended inner shaft, new aluminum rotor heads, carbon fiber blade grips (after buying them, saw a couple of not-so-rave reviews of them - hope my mileage varies from that), new extreme V1 blades, a graphite tail boom, extreme skid kit, battery mount, and canopy.

Pretty sure it will need some trimming.

Thanks for your help!

Dick
You've gone Xtreme crazy, like a lot of others have. I have the composite grips and I think they're fine. I eventually took off the Xtreme skids and went back to indestructible skids instead. Depending on the exact location of your inner shaft gear, make sure the boom bracket, where it attaches under the servo area, doesn't rub the gear. You may have to finesse it a little if it does.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 08:59 PM
Fly em if ya got em.
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Winder Ga
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Welcome Dick. You will find there are a lot of guys here that are more than willing to help with your questions. E2, LMH, Chap Mike, KJ, and a lot of others. We all can remember when we first came here and asked our questions. I remember one I asked once in the start, How do you guys open up these bricks. hahahaha. Welcome and have a great time. Happy Flyin. Lee
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 05:21 PM
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chi chi's Avatar
United States, WA, Burien
Joined Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
A certain amount of tail vibration is always there. It's usually a slightly bent inner shaft or something in the drive train that isn't exactly perfect.
I haven't gotten into LED's and, with my MCX-2, I disconnected them.
The 55 Degree blades are meant to give you less lift but better fast forward flight. Do you see a difference in the amount of throttle it takes to get it to lift off as compared to a standard blade?
If you look at the links that go from your composite lower blade grips to your swash, are they vertical, at a slight angle or are they at a crazy angle and the pins from the lower head just barely go into the slots in the links? I have one of the first versions of the grips and the balls on the grips are out a little too far and the pins just barely go into the links and prevent the swash and hub from going out of phase. I need some shorter balls for the grips, but don't know how to get them. How do I know what I order will be any different than what I already have? I have a spare parts set for the grips, but the balls in that set look the same as what I already have.
Hey Kodack_Jack! I got a response that you might be interested in determining wich ball grips are the right ones, allowing proper clearance for the pins on the lower head, providing a better fit through the linkage.

chi chi
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The batteries are going to be shipping to us this week. If you give me an email mid week I can take a pre-order.

Pertaining to the lower grips. I have not seen it personally but some of the original carbon fiber blade grips may have shipped with the older style ball links which are longer. I believe these to have come from another source because I have never had a customer with this issue… but I have heard about it. Basically the original blade grips for the CX2 were made out of aluminum, the base was narrow and they used a longer stud to achieve the correct geometry. The carbon fiber ones are wider and if you used the old studs on it the overall geometry would then be way too wide as described.

The correct spare parts kits for the carbon fiber blade grips is BCX301-P. This kit comes with the correct size ball links so if someone had the longer ball studs it would be a very easy fix to unscrew the long ones and install the new ones. If someone was to order the older style spare parts kit it would come with the longs ball studs again.
The grips we carry are the correct geometry and the spare parts are correct too. These are extremely popluar and I have not had any problems.
If someone was not sure if they had the proper studs the could easily measure to check. The width should be no more than 29mm give or take 1mm. If it is over 30mm wide that would be a problem. The longer studs are about 2mm longer per side so I would expect the overall measurement to come out close to 34mm which would be a problem.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 06:31 PM
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That's good information but probably confuses the living crap out of things for those who don't know the difference.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 03:08 AM
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United States, WA, Spokane
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi chi View Post
Pertaining to the lower grips. I have not seen it personally but some of the original carbon fiber blade grips may have shipped with the older style ball links which are longer. I believe these to have come from another source because I have never had a customer with this issue… but I have heard about it. Basically the original blade grips for the CX2 were made out of aluminum, the base was narrow and they used a longer stud to achieve the correct geometry. The carbon fiber ones are wider and if you used the old studs on it the overall geometry would then be way too wide as described.

The correct spare parts kits for the carbon fiber blade grips is BCX301-P. This kit comes with the correct size ball links so if someone had the longer ball studs it would be a very easy fix to unscrew the long ones and install the new ones. If someone was to order the older style spare parts kit it would come with the longs ball studs again.
The grips we carry are the correct geometry and the spare parts are correct too. These are extremely popluar and I have not had any problems.
If someone was not sure if they had the proper studs the could easily measure to check. The width should be no more than 29mm give or take 1mm. If it is over 30mm wide that would be a problem. The longer studs are about 2mm longer per side so I would expect the overall measurement to come out close to 34mm which would be a problem.
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Great post!!! we should sticky this info somewhere. I may stick this up on our vtail thread.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 08:08 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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There are so many things that come up and a couple too many heli's I'm flying, so, I keep a spreadsheet of mods and other useful info. I have asked guys to sticky stuff in the past and nothing happened. Do you have to be the thread originator to sticky something up on top?
BTW, we can convert 2MM of extra width to be 0.080" per side. Over the short distance between the bottom rotor and the swash, we're probably talking about an almost 30 Degree angle. The thickness of the links is no more than 0.060" and the pins on the bottom rotor head of my heli just barely engage the links.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 11:18 PM
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Houston, Texas
Joined Mar 2010
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New to Thread

I am new to thread and have picked up my CX2 after about 18 months of not flying it. I am an avid RC airplane flyer and now want to get back into some heli flying. I have a stock CX2 with stock RTF tx.

I would like to use my new DX6i with it so that hopefully I can program expo, etc to make it easier to fly. I have never been very good with CX2 yet.

I have perused thread quickly about DX6i settings and have been confused by what I've found. Is there a problem with using the DX6i?

Is the default heli setting the best to use?

Any advice on settings or best way to restart my flying is appreciated.

I can fly my iPhone little heli inside the house okay and now want to step up a little.

Thanks,

Russ
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 11:41 PM
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Russ, it is hit and miss with the Dx6i. Some controllers work and some have serious throttle issues. The only way you will know is to try it.

First off you will need to go into your tx setup menu and tab into the swash mix menu. Set this to 1servo norm. Bind the Rx to your Tx. Then go into your channel menu and make sure your servo direction settings are correct for the swash. And the tail control direction is correct. None of the rest really matters except setting up your throttle curve and your throttle hold switch. Maybe expo if you actually need it. I set mine at -20. I like super quick servo action.

Then see if you have throttle control on your heli. Not all controllers will link with the DX6i sadly.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:33 AM
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United States, NE, Omaha
Joined Feb 2012
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Super noob lookin for help...Been into RC planes here for about 3months. Just picked up this heli for, well lets just call it a good deal. For some reason though, the throttle is on my right joystick. This becomes a pain b/c that stick automatically goes to center giving the heli half throttle (which from what i read is supposed to be hover speed). Takes two people to start or turn off heli cuz someone always needs to hold that joystick down. ANY HELP APPRECIATED!!! thanks guys.


UPDATE:

I was at work when i asked the question. FINALLY was able to find what i was looking for. It came with the LP5DSM Tx. If you have this Tx you have the take the 4 screws off the back and there is a switch in the center that says L or R. Not sure which is which now i forgot, but i just switched it to the opposite setting and tested it and now its mode 2.
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Last edited by xfatdannx; Mar 19, 2012 at 09:25 AM. Reason: figured it out.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Joined Dec 2011
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Coax rotors spinning at different speeds.

I am borrowing a Blade CX2 from my friend to learn the basics of heli flight. I was flying it out side, did something stupid and ended up crashing it pretty hard. Nothing broke but when I turn the throttle on low the rotors spin up at different speeds. The heli can still fly and the rotors are producing lift but when I push the right stick left and right the heli doesn't move over very smoothly. When I push my left stick left and right the heli yaws (spins) so I don't think the motors are damaged. The inner shaft is moving up and down a little bit so I think the shaft collar might be loose.

I think I might have either messed up the swash plate in the crash, knocked the shaft collar out of place or messed up the motor. Everything looks fine but it is not flying very smoothly anymore. Any help or tips would be appreciated.
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