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Old Mar 11, 2012, 06:55 AM
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I've seen the swash and lower rotor get out of phase a bit because of this.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
I've seen the swash and lower rotor get out of phase a bit because of this.
Well admittidly I didn't push yours hard. I do have another one I just finished up that is exactly the same setup as yours using the xtreme grips.

I am waiting for the programming cable from HK to show up, so I can finish the vtail program in a new chip. Guess I will find out shortly. I trust what you saw on yours so I may have to shorten the balls on these I guess. I hate the fact you spend this kind of $$$ on something and it shows up with these kinds of problems. The aluminum versions they used to sell worked perfectly.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
Well admittidly I didn't push yours hard. I do have another one I just finished up that is exactly the same setup as yours using the xtreme grips.

I am waiting for the programming cable from HK to show up, so I can finish the vtail program in a new chip. Guess I will find out shortly. I trust what you saw on yours so I may have to shorten the balls on these I guess. I hate the fact you spend this kind of $$$ on something and it shows up with these kinds of problems. The aluminum versions they used to sell worked perfectly.
The little guy carrying your parts was seen in San Fransisco yesterday. He'll be making his way up to you as fast as his little feet can carry him!
When I bought my composite grips from Miracle Mart, I didn't even get the right links to go with it. They came separately a few weeks later. The parts I got were bagged and not in Xtreme packaging (?).
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Motor Bias Pot

I was looking at another forum and came across this post:

"Hey bro, I have some pretty good experience with bcx2 electrical issues, let me know if you still need some help. Meanwhile, check out my prior posts on the subject regarding the 3 in 1- there is an adjustment pot on the board that the manual mentions nothing about... it has to do with motor bias- not to be confused with the proportional adjustment pot. "

Has anybody ever heard of this before? If you read into what he's saying, if one motor is lacking in power and tends to make the heli spin, this pot will get you out of it. I've never heard of that before.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 09:15 AM
OlliW
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yes, this additional pot is explained by mareklev here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1010637. (it's the zero pot shown also here http://www.olliw.eu/uploads/esky-4in1-3in1-board-wp.jpg, the fig shows the lama V4 3in1, which is essentially identical, or used to be identical, to the CX2 3in1)(there had be some version changes over time and slight differences with the pin connectors). This persons explanation of its function may not be 100% correct (judged by the text fragment). MarekLev has discussed its setting and effect at length.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Yes! correct! You have to split the controller case to get at it. My opinion is that if you have to go to this extreme you should consider buying a more balanced set of motors since one of them or both must be dragging by the time you have to reach this extreme.

By the way. For those guys wanting to do extended inner shaft mods on your Cx's I found something absolutely astounding yesterday that works perfectly and is stunningly cheap. I had an issue with blade strike on my brand new CX3 I was modding. I was currently using one of the Lee the Treeguy shafts he sent me that is identical to the earlier 2.0 shafts guys are spending roughly $8 on or so. I stumbled across my Trex 450 pro flybar shaft collection that I had ordered from Hobbyking ages ago and broke one out of the pack. Guys these are tempered steel and run less than 50cents! I cut off the threaded ends with my dremel tool after mic'ing it out at a perfect 2mm dia, notched it and stuffed it in.
Bloody perfect! And well under a buck!

Btw: Ollie, my new setup is flying perfectly now with the OlliW gyromixer since the esc upgrade.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
By the way. For those guys wanting to do extended inner shaft mods on your Cx's I found something absolutely astounding yesterday that works perfectly and is stunningly cheap. I had an issue with blade strike on my brand new CX3 I was modding. I was currently using one of the Lee the Treeguy shafts he sent me that is identical to the earlier 2.0 shafts guys are spending roughly $8 on or so. I stumbled across my Trex 450 pro feathering shaft collection that I had ordered from Hobbyking ages ago and broke one out of the pack. Guys these are tempered steel and run less than 50cents! I cut off the threaded ends with my dremel tool after mic'ing it out at a perfect 2mm dia, notced it and stuffed it in.
Bloody perfect! And well under a buck!
I'm used to feathering shafts from a King 2 and there is no way they are long enough to be used as a 2MM inner shaft on a CX-2. Are we talking about the same feathering shaft? It goes from one blade grip to the other and get bent in a crash?
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:27 PM
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No, not the King 2 but the much longer 450 pro flybar shaft.

sorry, I wrote feathering shaft in my post and went back and fixed it.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:55 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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I must be lost...this is the CX2 thread right? I have NO idea what you all are talking about. Nothing new I guess

Mike.

BTW, Horizon Hobby is the best. Got another bad EFLH1024 for my Bud's V4 and had a bad gyro. Ken at HH told me, "no need to mail the bad one back" and that "HH would send a new one out." A BIG two thumbs up in my book
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
I must be lost...this is the CX2 thread right? I have NO idea what you all are talking about. Nothing new I guess

Mike.
He used a 450 FLYBAR shaft as an inner shaft (it's 2MM). It had threads on one end and he cut them off with a Dremel and added flats as needed. He also went longer than usual and made up the difference on the outer shaft by making a spacer of CF tubing. Another way I've done it is to just use a hunk of bent outer shaft.
OBTW, did I mention that the beauties are 46 CENTS apiece?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You'd probably get more than one out of each piece too.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 04:28 AM
OlliW
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using the 450 flybar is really a GREAT idea! Congrats!

however, the HK ones are extremely soft... you can bend them like nothing... IMHO, get the Align ones or even the Align steeled ones and you will notice the huge difference immediately (I stopped using the HK shafts in my 450 because they can get bend just during transport if you are not always very careful with them)

EDIT: the HK flybar shafts I got (and I ordered a couple of them over the course of 1 1/2 year) have apparently not been tempered steel
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:15 AM
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A large industrial supplier here, MSC, has oil hardened and air hardened 2MM stock. It's cheap and the 3 foot lengths make a LOT of shafts. Cut it with a Dremel cut off wheel and add a couple of flats and you're on your way. Of course, the 46 cent version is nice to try too.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 12:44 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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DX6i and EFLH1024 RX binding

Question Guys. I set up a model name etc. on my Bud's DX6i with the 1024 RX mounted on his V4. It did bind successfully and I was making some adjustments (reverse ELE and yaw). Then the yaw pooped the bed. HH is sending me a new EFLH1024 RX. Will I need to create a new model on the DX6i? In other words, assign it a new numbered model. If not, what is needed for me to do if anything? Will the "re-binding" of the new RX override what's on there now? Some tips to return that assigned channel to default would be great if this is what I need to do.

BTW, I, myself got a bad EFLH1024 RX with a yaw problem. Is this common on these RX's?

Mike.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Question Guys. I set up a model name etc. on my Bud's DX6i with the 1024 RX mounted on his V4. It did bind successfully and I was making some adjustments (reverse ELE and yaw). Then the yaw pooped the bed. HH is sending me a new EFLH1024 RX. Will I need to create a new model on the DX6i? In other words, assign it a new numbered model. If not, what is needed for me to do if anything? Will the "re-binding" of the new RX override what's on there now? Some tips to return that assigned channel to default would be great if this is what I need to do.

BTW, I, myself got a bad EFLH1024 RX with a yaw problem. Is this common on these RX's?

Mike.
All you need to do is re-bind, so the tx and new rx are communicating. All the settings that were programmed for the model will stay the same.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 03:33 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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Originally Posted by flyeraroo View Post
All you need to do is re-bind, so the tx and new rx are communicating. All the settings that were programmed for the model will stay the same.
Thank you kind Sir I did the exact same RX transfer to HP6DSM (twice) as you explained with no problem. I wanted to be sure doing this with the DX6i. I am really liking this radio.

Another question about the DX6i if I may. I would like to bind one Champ to two separate DX6i's (to stay on topic, one heli). Is this doable? Sorry if this is a stupid question. Grandpa always told me the only stupid question, is the one that isn't asked. Funny, I remember my D.I. saying it could simply kill us

Mike.
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