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Old Feb 29, 2012, 12:36 PM
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United States, WA, Spokane
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Nice velcro mod! This is similar to how I do most of mine. It helps tie the plastic body together and give it more rigidity than just the credit card mod since the guide holes help anchor the plastic body posts. Plus it gives you a consistant centering area for your battery. For a guy new to the forum, very nice work!

If you are already modding like this I can see you taking off really quickly with these. Most of what we do is innovate around the factory shortcomings. All in all pretty easy stuff though.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 08:01 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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Originally Posted by Tribal_Nuggett View Post
I think im Hooked !!!! I love this CX2 !!!! Replaced both inner and outer shafts...was a good learning experience...New flybar...Leveled swash...But something wasnt right, lots of vibration and TBE .I bought this used and turns out the previous owner had mismatched the upper blades..Did the soup can test (beer cans work too) ...refitted new blades that came with it and PRESTO !!!!! HHHAAA !!!! Hovers perfect !!! Couldnt have done it without the info from this forum. Will try the pivoting blades like Kodak had suggested next..Thanks everyone!!
I just re-read your post and see the part about replacing the flybar. When you get that heli outside and do forward flight of any length, you'll notice a phenomenon known as porpoising. The heli will fly forward about 10 feet, level off and pause and then do it over and over again. The nature of the beast is to be stable and want to hover. That gets old in a hurry. The cure is to shorten the flybar length. Had we known you were going to replace the flybar, we would have advised you to buy a shortened one with adjustable weights. The flybar itself is shortened and then the weights on the ends are held on by set screws. By moving the weights, you are essentially shortening the flybar to any length that works for you. You want that heli to fly forward continuously without pausing. If you're going to buy pivoting blade grips, you can buy the shortened flybar at the same time and save on S&H. I know that Boomtown has both.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 08:06 PM
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United States, WA, Burien
Joined Feb 2012
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TO LED's or NOT LED's ?

yeah, i'ma nebulous newb . I've started on a CX2 last year and this year i've completely upgraded almost every component through boomtown hobbies.
Man, i love my CX2! steep learning curve but with careful examination ;] im hovering peacefully .

currently replacing my lower rotor head due to blade strikes (extreme 55 blades). So I just ordered the microheli lower rotor, should be here by tuesday.

If I can help in anything, just ask. I've gleaned almost all of my CX2 knowledge from these forums that I'm glad to be a part of now.

Q: I'm thinking of adding some LED's to my CX2. Anyone know if this will drastically kill my flight time due to power loss via LED's??
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 09:22 PM
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No, the lighting system doesn't pull much out of the battery at all
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 03:18 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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Originally Posted by chi chi View Post

currently replacing my lower rotor head due to blade strikes (extreme 55 blades). So I just ordered the microheli lower rotor, should be here by tuesday.

If I can help in anything, just ask. I've gleaned almost all of my CX2 knowledge from these forums that I'm glad to be a part of now.
The whole thing about blade strikes, the lower head and 55 Degree blades isn't clear. The lower head is not what you change to get out of blade strikes. You need more separation between the upper and lower blades and it's done by changing the top rotor, not the lower one. You need to extend the inner shaft to give more separation. The Xtreme heads are taller and that is the equivalent of using a longer inner shaft. They come in either an 8MM or 12MM version. You use a standard length shaft, but the taller head gives you more separation. The 55 Degree blades are for more fast forward flight without as much lift. That also means it takes more power to get it up in the air because of the decreased lift. The blades are also stiffer and I wouldn't expect as many blade strikes as with blades that cone because they are more flexible.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 11:10 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi chi View Post
yeah, i'ma nebulous newb . I've started on a CX2 last year and this year i've completely upgraded almost every component through boomtown hobbies.
Man, i love my CX2! steep learning curve but with careful examination ;] im hovering peacefully .

currently replacing my lower rotor head due to blade strikes (extreme 55 blades). So I just ordered the microheli lower rotor, should be here by tuesday.

If I can help in anything, just ask. I've gleaned almost all of my CX2 knowledge from these forums that I'm glad to be a part of now.

Q: I'm thinking of adding some LED's to my CX2. Anyone know if this will drastically kill my flight time due to power loss via LED's??

I just hope, you didnt pay more than 10$ for it ...
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 12:15 AM
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United States, WA, Burien
Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
The whole thing about blade strikes, the lower head and 55 Degree blades isn't clear. The lower head is not what you change to get out of blade strikes. You need more separation between the upper and lower blades and it's done by changing the top rotor, not the lower one. You need to extend the inner shaft to give more separation. The Xtreme heads are taller and that is the equivalent of using a longer inner shaft. They come in either an 8MM or 12MM version. You use a standard length shaft, but the taller head gives you more separation. The 55 Degree blades are for more fast forward flight without as much lift. That also means it takes more power to get it up in the air because of the decreased lift. The blades are also stiffer and I wouldn't expect as many blade strikes as with blades that cone because they are more flexible.
Kodak_jack: Thanks for the clarification and shedding some additional light to my blade strikes. I did upgrade the inner shaft and extended head, both from boomtown hobbies (great website and customer service!). Prior to the 55 Degree blades, I had the extreme hard blades but were very flexible compared to the 55 degree blades. Somehow I managed to break a pin from my lower head but I had at least 3 minor crashes and several blade strikes. Once I discovered that I could not control the heli with the trim and my pushrods not helping much, I had to take it apart. Thats how I discovered the broken pin on the lower head...who knows how long that pin was busted.
I then transitioned into the 55 degree blades. I did hit the ground once and during the crash, I actually heard the strike and inspected the blades and found the marks and a broken pin on the lower head. So that how I got to the conclusion of broken pins. BUT i am a bonafide nebulous newb and my observations aren't that keen. Thanks for the breakdown kodak_jack.

Just this afternoon I installed the microheli aluminum lower head. So far so good. i did notice I get a small vibration at the tail every 3 to 4 seconds and my lower blades act the same as the tail...looks like the lower blades are the cause?? Not sure how to approach this one, any tips? The upgraded aluminum bearing holder seemed to have a little slop compared to the stock snug fitted one.

Any tips greatly appreciated.
Thanks again
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 12:17 AM
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LED's

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Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
I just hope, you didnt pay more than 10$ for it ...
Haven't found any for that price. Seen some for about 19$.
Where can I find the 10 dollar ones at?
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 03:24 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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Originally Posted by chi chi View Post
Just this afternoon I installed the microheli aluminum lower head. So far so good. i did notice I get a small vibration at the tail every 3 to 4 seconds and my lower blades act the same as the tail...looks like the lower blades are the cause?? Not sure how to approach this one, any tips? The upgraded aluminum bearing holder seemed to have a little slop compared to the stock snug fitted one.

Any tips greatly appreciated.
Thanks again
I guess there's the possibility that you have unbalanced blades. In most cases, you can put blades on and have them pretty close right out of the package, but it's also possible that they need to be balanced. You'd have to mount the blades in the blade grips and then balance them by suspending the assembly on the edge of 2 glasses so the glass acts as a knife edge, so to speak. The ball of each side wants to be to the inside of the glass while the edge just barely holds it behind the ball. The heavier blade will tip, etc.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 11:36 AM
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I tried it and it worked nicely! Thx. And as you said, they were just about spot-on. I really didn't have to add scotch tape.
But i did notice the repeated vibration on my lower blades has gone away somehow?! And my tail has a little vibration, don't know if this is normal or not?? I'll start checking to see what else i can do.
Appreciate the blade balancing trick Kodak_jack.

Know if any other good websites as to where I can get some LED's?
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
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Originally Posted by chi chi View Post
I tried it and it worked nicely! Thx. And as you said, they were just about spot-on. I really didn't have to add scotch tape.
But i did notice the repeated vibration on my lower blades has gone away somehow?! And my tail has a little vibration, don't know if this is normal or not?? I'll start checking to see what else i can do.
Appreciate the blade balancing trick Kodak_jack.

Know if any other good websites as to where I can get some LED's?
A certain amount of tail vibration is always there. It's usually a slightly bent inner shaft or something in the drive train that isn't exactly perfect.
I haven't gotten into LED's and, with my MCX-2, I disconnected them.
The 55 Degree blades are meant to give you less lift but better fast forward flight. Do you see a difference in the amount of throttle it takes to get it to lift off as compared to a standard blade?
If you look at the links that go from your composite lower blade grips to your swash, are they vertical, at a slight angle or are they at a crazy angle and the pins from the lower head just barely go into the slots in the links? I have one of the first versions of the grips and the balls on the grips are out a little too far and the pins just barely go into the links and prevent the swash and hub from going out of phase. I need some shorter balls for the grips, but don't know how to get them. How do I know what I order will be any different than what I already have? I have a spare parts set for the grips, but the balls in that set look the same as what I already have.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 12:15 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
A certain amount of tail vibration is always there. It's usually a slightly bent inner shaft or something in the drive train that isn't exactly perfect.
I haven't gotten into LED's and, with my MCX-2, I disconnected them.
The 55 Degree blades are meant to give you less lift but better fast forward flight. Do you see a difference in the amount of throttle it takes to get it to lift off as compared to a standard blade?
If you look at the links that go from your composite lower blade grips to your swash, are they vertical, at a slight angle or are they at a crazy angle and the pins from the lower head just barely go into the slots in the links? I have one of the first versions of the grips and the balls on the grips are out a little too far and the pins just barely go into the links and prevent the swash and hub from going out of phase. I need some shorter balls for the grips, but don't know how to get them. How do I know what I order will be any different than what I already have? I have a spare parts set for the grips, but the balls in that set look the same as what I already have.
... you could send me a PM ...
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 04:55 PM
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United States, WA, Burien
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How do I know what I order will be any different than what I already have?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
A certain amount of tail vibration is always there. It's usually a slightly bent inner shaft or something in the drive train that isn't exactly perfect.
I haven't gotten into LED's and, with my MCX-2, I disconnected them.
The 55 Degree blades are meant to give you less lift but better fast forward flight. Do you see a difference in the amount of throttle it takes to get it to lift off as compared to a standard blade?
If you look at the links that go from your composite lower blade grips to your swash, are they vertical, at a slight angle or are they at a crazy angle and the pins from the lower head just barely go into the slots in the links? I have one of the first versions of the grips and the balls on the grips are out a little too far and the pins just barely go into the links and prevent the swash and hub from going out of phase. I need some shorter balls for the grips, but don't know how to get them. How do I know what I order will be any different than what I already have? I have a spare parts set for the grips, but the balls in that set look the same as what I already have.

Yes. I have noticed the increased amount of throttle to lift the heli... Bummer, but I do like the forward motion it gives me. What type of blades do you use?
I do have the composite blade grips on my heli. I recently purchased these from boomtown hobbies. I examined my pins from my lower head that go into the linkage slots and they are flush with the linkage, they don't stick-out past the thickness of the linage. I just purchased these from boomtownhobbies. I do know boomtown continues to restock the composite lower blade grips, so i would assume they would be actualized on the latest versions. I sent Jamie there an email with the questions, I'll keep you posted kodak_jack.
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 06:44 PM
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The balls of my lower grip are too long which makes the links sit at an angle and the pins from the lower head just barely stick into the slots of the links. I'll have to try the shorter balls.
My blades are from Xtreme (regular), Xtreme 55 Degrees(haven't tried them yet), Airy (I like them a lot), AFC(painted to match my canopy) and Microheli.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 01:55 AM
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Kj, I looked at your swash and links when I had your heli in my hands. The pin/link will work just fine. When they are at an extreme enough swash angle to loose one side of the pin in the slot the other side is holding it. Looks funny but it works quite well besides. I do like the longer balls myself as it does allow for more serious swash angles, as before when the use of the shorter ball leverages the links off the grip. What happens is the link actually hits the grip itself on the lower edge under the ball and it forces the link off the ball. Not good. So guys if you can live with it just keep the longer shafted grip balls unless you are just hovering around.
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