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Old Apr 20, 2011, 11:28 PM
Professional heli wrecker
Luvmyhelis's Avatar
United States, WA, Spokane
Joined Oct 2010
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Nice innovation. And yes you can put your futaba rx in and use it. And I am successfully running a trex250 canopy on one of mine.
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 01:34 PM
Fly em if ya got em.
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Winder Ga
Joined Sep 2008
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You guys are innovative and creative. I Love it!!! Good stuff indeed. Lee
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 07:08 PM
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Grand Rapids MI.
Joined Feb 2011
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[QUOTE=erdnuckel2;18024224]did you put the blades from the pictures on the rivesud grips ?? (that would beyond doubt identify the grips as the culprit).
QUOTE]
Alright I had some time this weekend to do some switching and swapping and its definantly not the grips, its the blades. It seems as though they have no spine to em. LOL i put Xtreme hard 55*, Reg Xtreme blades and rcvd blades on the purple grips and they all flew great. With that I put the black no-name blades on a real light weight cx chasis that I quick put together for this test...and the still fly like with a ton of flex and very little lift . Live and learn!!!

In the mean time I threw this beauty togather.
cx3 canopy, align 450 skids + aluminium tube, esky 900mah battery tucks under the nose nicely and helps balance this tail heavy thing out, also I did remount the 3in1 to the proper orientation because the gyro wanted to keep making it nose over...once again, Live&Learn
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 11:34 PM
Professional heli wrecker
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United States, WA, Spokane
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I Love it!!!
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Old Apr 28, 2011, 10:35 PM
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Joined Apr 2011
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Removing fly bar holder on CX2

I have asked this question many times with different answers. Can I take the blue anodized fly bar holder and the black piece below it to install the lower Xtreme carbon blade grip. Do I really need to remove the collor at the bottom of the Heli and remove the inner/outer tone and slip the lower grip through the bottom of the shaft. You would think you could install it from the fly bar end. But how to remove the holder. I too the set screw out with no luck
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Old Apr 28, 2011, 10:50 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCURRY View Post
I have asked this question many times with different answers. Can I take the blue anodized fly bar holder and the black piece below it to install the lower Xtreme carbon blade grip. Do I really need to remove the collor at the bottom of the Heli and remove the inner/outer tone and slip the lower grip through the bottom of the shaft. You would think you could install it from the fly bar end. But how to remove the holder. I too the set screw out with no luck
I would have to take a look at that again to be really sure, but doing this on my CX3 I think I did it how you suggest from the top (however, removing the upper rotor head [I think that is what you refer to as "flybar holder"] seems to have been a lot easier in my case. Normally to all I experienced, if the setscrew is out, the head should move. If it doesnt, my first suspicion would be that they used threadlocker that got in between the shaft and the head ... in which case (very carefully) heating the part should help [by slowly "re-liquifying" the threadlocker .... seems like heat (if it is applied really carefully) often helps with problems on these birds)

In any case, I will check on it at the next opportunity (ie next time I am at my workplace) and post my findings ...
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 12:47 AM
Professional heli wrecker
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United States, WA, Spokane
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by PCURRY View Post
I have asked this question many times with different answers. Can I take the blue anodized fly bar holder and the black piece below it to install the lower Xtreme carbon blade grip. Do I really need to remove the collor at the bottom of the Heli and remove the inner/outer tone and slip the lower grip through the bottom of the shaft. You would think you could install it from the fly bar end. But how to remove the holder. I too the set screw out with no luck
You have a classic case of too much threadlock that has now seized the head on the shaft. One way to get rid of it is to heat the head up and re soften the compound. You can use a lighter on the shaft until the head gets fairly soft and it will pretty much fall off. Or use the stove top or even the oven to get it done.
Or just grip the shaft with vice grips using a cloth to keep the shaft from scarring and the same on the head and work them both loose. My problem with this is oftentimes you bend the shaft or irreparably scar it during the process.
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 08:13 PM
Hobby Enthusiast
New Mexico
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCURRY View Post
I have asked this question many times with different answers. Can I take the blue anodized fly bar holder and the black piece below it to install the lower Xtreme carbon blade grip. Do I really need to remove the collor at the bottom of the Heli and remove the inner/outer tone and slip the lower grip through the bottom of the shaft. You would think you could install it from the fly bar end. But how to remove the holder. I too the set screw out with no luck
You sure can. I have no problems installing the carbon lower blade grips from the top. Although, those blade grips are sure problematic as they flex like hell. Find yourself a good set of aluminums for the lowers since they will experience the highest torque on the ball when giving it forward/reverse throttle. Shoot, just get a full set of 'em. The top carbon grips bind at low angles anyways.

-Tim
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 08:17 PM
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New Mexico
Joined Jan 2011
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Oh and for the set screw, get yourself a set of good set screws (100 for $5 on McMaster) to have in your toolbox if you're playing with these things a lot. They aren't designed for torquing down and loosening too many times without the hex wallowing out. Plus, I guarantee you'll loose one someday and be upset you can't fly because of a tiny screw. Usually, the local hardware stores don't carry them that small. Next thing you know you're ordering them anyways .
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Old Apr 30, 2011, 08:42 PM
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Grand Rapids MI.
Joined Feb 2011
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Originally Posted by Tim2Go View Post
Oh and for the set screw, get yourself a set of good set screws (100 for $5 on McMaster) to have in your toolbox if you're playing with these things a lot. They aren't designed for torquing down and loosening too many times without the hex wallowing out. Plus, I guarantee you'll loose one someday and be upset you can't fly because of a tiny screw. Usually, the local hardware stores don't carry them that small. Next thing you know you're ordering them anyways .
do you have a link to this "Mcmaster" ???
and what size are they? 2mm?
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Old Apr 30, 2011, 09:08 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Originally Posted by OTTOFLYS View Post
do you have a link to this "Mcmaster" ???
and what size are they? 2mm?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-set-screws/=c3wnj3
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Old May 05, 2011, 10:14 AM
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United States, NJ, Somerset
Joined Jan 2009
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CX2 Tail Twitch

Hi all. I have a new CX2 which has been trimmed out pretty well. All stock except for the Boomtown #4 tail assembly, flexible skids and motor heatsink. It has a slight tail twitch in hover and I cannot seem to eliminate it. Any suggestions?

Thanks
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Old May 05, 2011, 10:45 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by k4pacific View Post
Hi all. I have a new CX2 which has been trimmed out pretty well. All stock except for the Boomtown #4 tail assembly, flexible skids and motor heatsink. It has a slight tail twitch in hover and I cannot seem to eliminate it. Any suggestions?

Thanks
You didn't say what you tried to eliminate the twitch. Did you try turning the gain down a tad. Do this in very, very small increments. About the thickness of the screwdriver you are using. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Mike.
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Old May 05, 2011, 11:39 AM
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I readjusted the gain as you suggsted in the smallest of increments until the gain was maxed out. The slight twitching is now reduced to perhaps 3/32" either way. Should I expect better than this? I've haven't had any crashes, and I have checked the shafts, flybar and balance of the blades and all are good.

Sam
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Last edited by k4pacific; May 05, 2011 at 11:39 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old May 07, 2011, 09:43 AM
Registered User
Grand Rapids MI.
Joined Feb 2011
404 Posts
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Originally Posted by k4pacific View Post
I readjusted the gain as you suggsted in the smallest of increments until the gain was maxed out. The slight twitching is now reduced to perhaps 3/32" either way. Should I expect better than this? I've haven't had any crashes, and I have checked the shafts, flybar and balance of the blades and all are good.

Sam
That is pretty darn good as far as a twitch goes, but in my experience with the model 4 boom you need to slide the horizontal fin forward so that there is less tention on the rubber O-ring...

I like to have it farther back just for looks but they fly well like this one. after the rubber stretches some you can slide the fin aft more...play with it and let us know what you find
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