LMH,

Question: Do you have a specific 3s battery that you can recommend? I went through the vtail coax thread and didn't find any specific brands to look for. I am curious what size and mAh to look for. Also, what sort of battery tray/mod would fit that?

Heli update:

Withe the new canopy, I definitely notice more tail wagging. Due to my gyro being mounted to the tail boom, I feel the vibration is amplified because it isn't a rigid mount. I may try the boomtown tail as it looks more rigid. Plus, I don't like the idea that everytime I crash, the tailboom pulls on the servos, breaking their mounts. I may use it on my next heli which will be mostly stock with Xtreme 180's and the stock 3 in 1.

Any quick battery suggestions are welcome :-)

-Tim

Yes, I am using a 900ma 15c batt, LINK http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
here are some pics as they may cover this better. Also the boomtown tail is not as stable as the xtreme setup I modded nor as light. The gyro will fit up front just fine and will settle the heli down for multiple reasons by the way.



I was going to use a shrink fit pvc custom modded battery tray, but due to multiple structural issues and challenges it did not make the cut. I also have tried multiple batts with different weights and ratings up to 1250ma and built entire heli's around them.

Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis

Yes! You only need one engine to make this happen and it is the one that has the gear closest to the base that drives the outer shaft. One thing worth mentioning on this Xtreme upgrade that no one seems to mention is the fact the gears are spaced to where you need to add another brass washer to the outer shaft base to make them work properly. We were discussing this on the HF forum just two days ago. In my plight to make things perfect and not use the double spacer I tried to move the gear on the shaft and shattered the inner shaft support on that motor. I was pretty upset.

Pictures can be deceiving, but those look like regular flat washers. The one closest to the bearing needs to have the raised edge that will only contact the inner race of the bearing, not the outer race.

So I ordered these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_2960wt_927

They are almost the same dimensions as stock:
1 mm taller
2.5 mm wider

I think I might cut the battery tray plastic out of the battery holder and do like LMH. Add some velcro and fly like a banshee.

I crashed my heli into my flat screen last night with the lady watching. It put 4 blade strike marks on it. They aren't visible with the tv on, buy I was so sad. Luckily the flybar didn't hit or it would have been the end of that Samsung 42"...

Originally Posted by Tim2Go

So I ordered these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_2960wt_927

They are almost the same dimensions as stock:
1 mm taller
2.5 mm wider

I think I might cut the battery tray plastic out of the battery holder and do like LMH. Add some velcro and fly like a banshee.

I crashed my heli into my flat screen last night with the lady watching. It put 4 blade strike marks on it. They aren't visible with the tv on, buy I was so sad. Luckily the flybar didn't hit or it would have been the end of that Samsung 42"...

Sorry to hear about the TV Tim.

The width of the battery (+2.5mm) will be the pain ... the one mm in height wont matter too much, the witdth will ...

Looking forward to hear when you install them

E2

Gents,

I have come up with my new battery box for 3s lipos. I will be using 1.7 mm (.068") carbon plate along with the Align 450 Skids (if they are light enough).

Here's my plan:

• Cut Carbon plate and drill holes to match chassis
  
  I ordered 4"x4" 1.7mm carbon plate (same size as Micro heli chassis thichness). I am going to remove the FLYRC battery box and replace it with a custom plate. Now this new plate will have about .5-1" hanging past the rear mounting screws to mount my gyro to.
  
  http://www.protechcomposite.com/serv...t-panel/Detail
  
• Add Trex Pro landing skids
  
  The skids seem wide and low profile. They are adjustable in length and I can drill the holes to line up with the stock battery box screw location. I may need to order longer screws from McMaster.
  
  http://www.tennesseedrifterheli.com/...lack_HS1294-00
  
  
• Install velcro on new battery plate
  
  I'll be using some velcro to allow for custom battery locating.
  
• Install gyro on mounting plate in rear
  
  Leaving the gyro in the rear helps me with my balance issues. I'll leave just slightly more carbon plate extending from the rear of the chassis than the thickness of the gyro. This will allow me to mount it in a location that is rigid and free from tailboom vibrations.

I'll update along the way. Parts should be in soon.

-Tim

when do we get to see the pictures ??

Nice Job Tim! My use of the stock CX tray was that originally on the vtail thread the point was to use as much stock equipment as possible so the average guy could easily replicate the process. Especially the dual swash mod. I love your carbon fibre use in this area. If you noticed I am modding a CF canopy (I just found a windshield supply for .89c yesterday), I have a modded CF tail, the platform is CF and my skid tubes will soon be CF along with all of my linkages, and I am working on CF blades!
I was up half if not most of the night thinking of something. What if I took the flybarless dual swash idea and used it here on the CX platform instead of waiting for the 450 build I am collecting parts for? What are your thoughts on this guys?
For one thing I would not need the two central lower hubs we talked about Sven, but it also means I have a ton of money in parts I no longer need. I certainly have room under this canopy for the 3 needed gyros. But, no more bell-hiller linkage and no more flybar.

Originally Posted by Tim2Go

So I ordered these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_2960wt_927

They are almost the same dimensions as stock:
1 mm taller
2.5 mm wider

I think I might cut the battery tray plastic out of the battery holder and do like LMH. Add some velcro and fly like a banshee.

I crashed my heli into my flat screen last night with the lady watching. It put 4 blade strike marks on it. They aren't visible with the tv on, buy I was so sad. Luckily the flybar didn't hit or it would have been the end of that Samsung 42"...

What are the battery connections? How much do they weigh?

Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis

What are the battery connections? How much do they weigh?

Look at the ebay link I provided. I think they are 67 grams. I don't really care about the connectors. I have made mine using Deams mini's.

Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis

Nice Job Tim! My use of the stock CX tray was that originally on the vtail thread the point was to use as much stock equipment as possible so the average guy could easily replicate the process. Especially the dual swash mod. I love your carbon fibre use in this area. If you noticed I am modding a CF canopy (I just found a windshield supply for .89c yesterday), I have a modded CF tail, the platform is CF and my skid tubes will soon be CF along with all of my linkages, and I am working on CF blades!
I was up half if not most of the night thinking of something. What if I took the flybarless dual swash idea and used it here on the CX platform instead of waiting for the 450 build I am collecting parts for? What are your thoughts on this guys?
For one thing I would not need the two central lower hubs we talked about Sven, but it also means I have a ton of money in parts I no longer need. I certainly have room under this canopy for the 3 needed gyros. But, no more bell-hiller linkage and no more flybar.

Go for the 450. If you like the dual swash on that, then make a BCX one. If I were to build another new heli (unless you had all the parts in spares), I would go with a new 450. Those things are so beautiful!

My 450 and 500 are shelf queens. Too dang big. Lee

Originally Posted by leethetreeguy

My 450 and 500 are shelf queens. Too dang big. Lee

Hehe! The 450 I am talking about is exactly the same size as your showpiece BOL, and this is what I am currently working on with your BOL blades Lee. They are going on the 3 bladed head for the dual swash, vtail brushless, flybarless beast.
I was up looking at the two CX, make that 3 of them builds going on with all the complex linkage, stubbed my lazy toe, and started trying to easy my way out of at least two of them.
Besides I have the 450 size custom flymentor frankenheli CP sitting on my dresser with enough aftermarket parts to build 2 or 3 of them that I can donate. If Tony will get me the custom body I can get started. I even have a canomod canopy sitting in my parts closet with 2 spares. Kinda nice not having a woman around that hogs all the extra room I now call my own.

Originally Posted by Tim2Go

Look at the ebay link I provided. I think they are 67 grams. I don't really care about the connectors. I have made mine using Deams mini's.

Now I feel stupid, I Just looked at the pic and did not scroll down. I do like the 20c rating, and the weight is not even an issue with the extra power. Keep me updated on how these work! I will link the thread to the vtail just to document your results. These are really close in price to what I found earlier.

Gents,

I am trying to find an on/off switch to go between my battery and ESC's for easy powering. I saw this little push button on/off switch somewhere but I have not been able to find it again. If anyone knows where I can get one, hit me up. I don't like the idea of connecting my dean's plugs and having occasional arcing. NOT GOOD...