Question can the cx2 use a Thunder Power 2100mAh 2 Cell 7.4V LIPO 16GA? Aside from the battery being bigger will it damage the helicopter????

You could just pop out the pins on the battery connector and put them back in to suit the charger your using.

It should not. 7.4 Volts is 7.4 Volts, no matter if it behind 800 mah or 2.1A. It will be heavier and may not fly all that well however it should not dammage the motors or pack.

Alex

Well, I am about to put in the vortex motors in my BCX2 as well, I'll post back about my results. I saw CCBusa was have signifigantly shorter flight times. I'll report about that as well.

Ed

Well not good news, the motors, although quieter seemed very weak on power. This was on a stock battery. The vortex motors lasted about 6 minutes and the last couple of minutes the bcx2 would barely hover about 6 inches above the ground.

I am wondering if a good break in of the motors would help. That leads me to the next question, what would be the best way to break in the motors? I am thinking about just running them hooked up to the 4 and 1 breaking them in that way. How much power and how many pack would be adequate? Anyone with a lot of electric brushed motor experience out there to help? Thanks

Ed

Hey Ed, I'm surprised to hear that.. I had heard that from a few others, then some others say that they work great. I switched mine out today, and they worked great.

I switched over my inner and outer shaft, flybar and the two motors today. I also moved the servo linkages out a hole. I only flew it in the house, but so far, I'm pretty impressed. I was able to fly for eight minutes with the vortex motors, and it had noticeably more power. Again, i didn't get to ring it out, and the flying I did was just some putting around the living room, chasing the dog and the cats a bit.

I flew the it with the stock lipo. It's on the charger now, so I'll let ya guys know how many mah it takes back in.

I'll take the CX to work tomorrow and ring it out in the conference room a bit and see how it goes.

I was going to break the motors in using the water technique if they acted like they needed the brushes set, but to be honest, I'm pretty happy with them so far.

The inner and outer shaft was a breeze to switch out. I used the vortex gear. It spaces the upper and lower blades apart by about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, supposedly giving more room for the blades to flex when getting crazy with the CX. The vortex flybar is a bit shorter, and should help with the pendulum effect in forward flight, and it should give it more agility.

The inner shaft came with the stock vortex upper rotor head on it, but to use the CX blades, I needed to use a CX rotor head. I picked up an Eflight alloy head and took it off the inner shaft that it came on. I used a pair of cutters to snip the head off the vortex inner shaft. I did this by top part of the head off, and then I cut long ways down the remaining plastic and it just popped off. I stuck the alloy eflight head on and slapped it all back together. The link that connects the fly bar to the blades on the vortex shaft was a bit longer, and could not be shortened enough for the conversion, so I used the link off the CX flybar.

The motors were a direct swap. No problems at all with that. If you do switch the motors, make sure you start that first flight off slow, and double check the rotation of your blades.

All in all, it cost $36 dollars, and that included the alloy head and the two motors. Everything was bought from BPHobbies, except for the rotor head. If it works out as well as it seems to be, then it was WELL worth it.

For now back to the stock motors.

Again, I only flew mine around the house, I'll know more tomorrow about how well the vortex motors will work out or not.

Wow, you guys are on it already. I received my Vortex heli today. But I can't get it in the air yet. Going to need a new outer shaft for it. I knew the heli had been crashed and was expecting slight damage, and it was very slight, but I hosed the replacement outer shaft the guy shipped with it. Too slow getting it into place after a spot of super glue. So that is totally my fault. Looks like BPhobbies is going to get some business from me tonight. The spare vortex motors were with it too. I noticed that the motors on the heli itself were very very tight. I can see that break in will be needed. I got two packs with it and btw, they will not fit the BCX2 tray. Nor can you just swap the trays out without some mods. I did take some long wire ties, like from a loaf of bread, and tied the vortex batt to my BCX2. Flew around for about 8 - 9 minutes with it. This is one of the commonsenserc.com packs, but not the one for the CX. The ratings are identical though, just sized differently. The vortex is shorter and wider than the cx2, and the internal layout is very similar. I can tell like NumbSkull pointed out it is probably 1/8 to 1/4 in. taller. So yes there will be some additional separation. I also got one of the CF flybars as a spare. It has a slight wobble to it, and not easy to get straight, but I curious how this changes your flight NumbSkull. Let me know if it is worth a change out. I kinda like the steel bar better, but like the size of the CF bar. Trade off I guess. I might take a pair of broken flybar holder/inner shafts and see if I can use them to create a shorter metal top bar in the future.

ED, sorry to hear you went back to the stock motors. I think we need to see what happens after numbskull works them out and loosens them up. Quiet with more power works for me, but I need to look up this water trick ya'll are talkin about.

OH, have either of you guys tried the throttle mod on the TX? I did this a couple of nights ago and wanted to see if any of you have tried it. I like it a lot. Basically remove the batteries from the TX, then the 4 screws from the back of it. The back cover lifts off, but you still have the wiring going to the battery compartment. Just move the back out of your way. You will see only one metal tab thingy near the throttle controller. it is the only one there so you can't miss it. One philips screw there, just take that out, flip the metal piece upside down, so the pointy part is facing up. Re-assemble everything and try the throttle. It is now smooth and no click click click. I prefer this. Seems to give me a little more precision on throttle controls. Give it a whirl!

Diggs

Originally Posted by DiggyDiggs

OH, have either of you guys tried the throttle mod on the TX? I did this a couple of nights ago and wanted to see if any of you have tried it. I like it a lot. Basically remove the batteries from the TX, then the 4 screws from the back of it. The back cover lifts off, but you still have the wiring going to the battery compartment. Just move the back out of your way. You will see only one metal tab thingy near the throttle controller. it is the only one there so you can't miss it. One philips screw there, just take that out, flip the metal piece upside down, so the pointy part is facing up. Re-assemble everything and try the throttle. It is now smooth and no click click click. I prefer this. Seems to give me a little more precision on throttle controls. Give it a whirl!

Diggs

Yea, I did that. Makes it easier to set hover as you do not feel it must be one more or less, only to find out it is in between.

-Jon

I've not modded my throttle yet. But I probably will (in about 10 minutes from now.. ). I had planned to pick up a CX v1 72mhz 4in1 so that I could fly it from one of my evo radios. I don't have anything against DX, but I sure like those evos... Anyway.. I've put that on hold until I can find a 4in1 that is of quality. I hear of so many problem from the CX v1 4in1s, and today, I read the article about them flying away..

So.. If anyone knows of a good 4in1 that would fit the bill.. please let me know!! I might go to separates instead, but if I do that, it will be a while, as I've got a few other projects I got to get done first...

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My vortex motors were tighter then the stock CX2 motors, but by no means overly tight. They certainly have more cog then the stockers as well, but again, they would easily spin when given a test. I cant comment on the loudness of them. I didn't think they were any quieter then the stock ones, but my head's packed full of snot from a horrible head cold, so everything sounds like it's under water...

The motors I got head stickers wrapped around them, so I pealed the stickers off and stuck my CX heat sink on them.

The lipo took back in about 700 mahs, so the pack was pretty much drained after the flight. I didn't time it as I flew as the first few minutes were spent re-trimming it. I know I had at least 8 mins cause I was waiting for the sopranos to come on (started on A&E tonight.. ). I did the trims at about 7:45 and took to the air at 7:50. Chased the pets a bit and landed back on the desk at 7:57. I'm counting one minute for the trims, but I know I had more...

Tomorrow I will know more. I'll give it the gusto and see how long I can keep it going.

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The flybar I picked up from BP was a metal flybar with weights at the end of it. I didn't see a carbon on.. Nice touch of bling.. but after hitting the coffee table a few times tonight, I don't know that a carbon one would work for me. Maybe in a few weeks.... Might try to find one when I put the tail boom and a new canopy on it.

Originally Posted by davecrash

You could just pop out the pins on the battery connector and put them back in to suit the charger your using.

Think I might give that a try!!! Never would have thought of that. Not sure how to pop them out but will give it an inspection.

Thanks!
Diggs

Originally Posted by NumbSkull

I've not modded my throttle yet. But I probably will (in about 10 minutes from now.. ).
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My vortex motors were tighter then the stock CX2 motors, but by no means overly tight.
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The flybar I picked up from BP was a metal flybar with weights at the end of it. I didn't see a carbon on.. Nice touch of bling.. but after hitting the coffee table a few times tonight, I don't know that a carbon one would work for me. Maybe in a few weeks.... Might try to find one when I put the tail boom and a new canopy on it.

I am guessing you will like the TX mod! My Vortex motors are very stiff, hard to turn the shaft even. Curious what they will do under batt power. If the Vortex itself does well, I will stick them on the CX2, if not, the I will probably let the spares sit till I need them.

Hmm, all the flybars I have seen on the vortex were CF. But I might add one of the shorter metal ones when I pick up the outer shaft. I want to try this bird out and see how she compares to the CX2.

Any of you guys get Stersmans tail boom in yet?

Diggs

I am a newbie having purchased a BCX2 just after Chritsmas. I have been reading the posts here at RC Groups and have learned a lot. Thanks to all of you that post this great imformation.

The mods I have made so far are:
1) Reversed the metal clip on the Tx throttle control to eliminate the clicks
2) Moved the servo pushrods out 1 hole on the servos
3) Installed the inner shaft w/aluminum head
4) Installed the aluminum bearing holder w/bearing
5) Installed the main motor heat sink
6) Cut a flap in the canopy for additional motor cooling (see below)

For the additional motor cooling I cut along both sides of the upper windshield on the canopy and then across the curved top of the upper windshield. I folded this section down. The edge of this flap fits neatly under the heat sink directing the rotor wash directly onto the heat sink and motors. I can not measure the temperature but before the mod the motors were very hot to touch after flying through 1 battery. With the cooling mods, after flying for 1 battery the heat sink and motors are warm to touch. A drastic difference IMHO. I have tried to attach a picture below showing this mod.

After several crashes and many main rotor blades and a main rotor hub I started using the online lessons from Radd's School of Rotory Flight at http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html. I got the thread from a post here at RC Groups. That has helped a lot.

I have the aluminum main rotor hub and the aluminum swashplate on backorder. Hopefully they will arrive soon. The 2 Mega Power batteries I ordered from HeliDirect.com are to arrive today.

I have adjusted the servo pushrods and the 2 pots on the 4-in-1 and with the trim controls set at center on the Tx my BCX2 hovers rock solid. I have had no problems as some posts have stated with my BCX2. It worked perfect right out of the box. Well, actually it crashed a lot but that might have been influenced by my lack of piloting skills. I am having fun and looking forward to piloting more advanced heli's in the future.

klondikes

Good morning to all!

I finally had the chance to trim the lower blades to make them both shorter after a previous crash shortened one of them and a blade clash toar off the other.

Both lower blades are now trimmed shorter than their original length. Here's the specs:

Upper blades: 6.125" base-to-tip (original length)
Lower blades: 5.5" base-to-new-tip (trimmed)

#1) I used a good blade as a pattern to draw the curved tip onto the lower baldes that had been torn.

#2) Use a sanding block with 80-100 grit paper - go slow. If the edges are jagged like mine were, I sanded from different directions until the edges were smooth. Take your time so you don't make a crack in the blade worse by catching it and ripping it more.

#3) After that, I finished off using a medium grit sanding sponge. That's just the wood working in me I guess!

I put everything back together. I had to trim the pots again -- I'm guessing due to the different torque/load on the motors because of the smaller blades.

Flight was smooth, no blade clash! But please remember, I only had a chance to fly in my living room, so I did the best I could from going quickly forwad to backward to forward again, trying to get the blades to hit. I'll know better when I can take the heli outside or fly in a larger indoor arena.

Someone had asked earlier, I only moved the elevator trim out one hole -- I left the airleron alone.

So reducing the size of the lower blades may be a viable alternative -- and a simple solution -- to blade clash . There was no way I experimented with an exact length to shorten. The final size was due to how much I had to take off before the tip was void of any tears. So you may not have to trim it to 5.5". But for now, it seems to work!

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Battery question:

By the way, can any one tell me if you need to make any modifications to fit the common sense battery? I saw on a thread where the manufacturer posted detailed instructions on their web site as to the steps necessary to get a good fit. But that included trimming the canapy, cutting the battery holder and using either tie wraps or velcro. I'm hoping I don't need to do any of that. And, what about the mega packs I keep hearing about, can you just take out the spacers and electric tape them back to fit?

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Hey Numbskull:

Can't wait to hear your results after you try the new Vortex's at work!

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Welcome to Kondike!

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Have a great day all!

Robert