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Old Jan 20, 2008, 05:06 AM
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Bill Glover's Avatar
United Kingdom, Bracknell
Joined Nov 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirion
You can get a sub A$10 low LiPo volt alarm - uses a red LED
I'm getting bored saying this but here goes ...

The CX2 already has a low volt warning. The status LED on the 3-in-1 goes from green to red.

You just need to (a) know this and (b) look at it periodically.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 09:41 AM
Has a slipped rotor disk!
wolfox's Avatar
Joined Jan 2008
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First Post: First Heli!

I have been reading this thread from the first post and the first day I got my BCX-2. PHEW! It was a birthday gift to myself after a friend gave me a toy foam flier (Ar Hogs Reflex) and mastered it within a week.

......as much as one can master something that drifts like a housefly on a good day. Those twitchy reflexes you developed despite your parents slapping you on your knuckles playing video games certainly help one's ability with an Air Hog.

First up, thanks to all of you that contributed to a wealth of information in this thread. I figured it would be fair to fill you in on a few things I discovered too.

1)Ventilating the 3-in-1 case on the v.2 BCX-2 seemed to have cured the out of the box slow yaw to the right. That and making sure that there is NO vibes anywhere. This means no bent shafts, no bent flybars. Even ones that are factory new in the pack are a little bent - patience, eyeballing and feeling after small, corrective bends will get that sorted out.

2)I shotgunned and replaced as much plastic with aluminum parts as I could get my hands on after my de-virginizing crash. She shattered everything - it was an outdoor flight, full power to fight a headwind - loosing to a solid object as she worked and decided not to go into headwind...all blades, shafts and lower head went bye-bye. So she carries the stock aluminum upper rotor head plus aluminum lower, CNC swashplate and heatsinks. Following the swashplate leveling guide solved the percieved TBE - it was really swash input mixing. Something about trading the plastic for metal will throw the bird off slightly initially. Patience will get you zeroing in that plate quick and makes for a tighter flying beast.

3) Get into an open indoor area! I had been fighting my bird in a cramped apartment for far too long. For two weeks I thought that I could never zero her in for a stable hover. I was always fighting ground effect/rotor wash from the start. I took her into a vast antechamber in the central corridor of one of my offices and it was a totally different experience. Not only did she fly much better - but I think battling her in a 8x8 area surrounded by books, TVs, etc. made me an ace. I have since flown her more than 2 dozen times in the office without a mishap.

4) I never bothered with the training gear. Frankly, the machine could do without the extra weight. Get her in a cozy 20x20 space and just FLY. I took short hovering, ground cushion flights at first, zeroing trims, etc. Then, started popping her up out of her own wash to eye level and practiced hovering her there - turning about, etc. Coming from R/C cars and trucks, I can grasp the nose-in turning...still fuddle fingered when dealing with three axis of motion though!

5) Shameless plug time: Jamie at Boomtown Hobbies rocks! I do not think the man ever sleeps. I placed an order the other night for some go fast parts and look good materials. I left special instruction to contact me when certain items were restocked ...he replied....at midnight, his time! That man is dedicated and from what I read from others here, a good place to sink my money for my CX-2 bits and pieces.

I guess that is it for introductions for now. Been a proud and learning - if a bit clumsy BCX-2 owner for 3 weeks now. I always wanted to get into the hobby since I was younger, but he cost was prohibitive. Even on DYI kits - at the time, one could sink $400 alone in radio parts. The Reflex got me going on a path that led me to the BCX-2....God knows where I will go from there. As my flight instructor would say, "Looks like you got air in yer head!" pretty much describes me now. I can only think about the next time I take a fresh pair of charged packs and fly the snot out of the office atrium.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 10:03 AM
The Shadows are coming!
Sirion's Avatar
Glen Forrest, Western Australia
Joined Dec 2006
1,373 Posts
Bill, that's OK if you want a macro alarm - really a very coarse indicator - but I prefer a dedicated LiGlow alarm system which has the option of an audible alarm if flying outside in bright sunlight and you loose the 4in1 LED colour change. The LiGlow has a visual indicator option - which triggers the high intensity strobes to go solid along with a huge landing light which switches on solid - and/or an audible alarm when the battery volts under load drops to 6.45V. That sort of indication along with the knowledge that you should land as soon as the CX2 will no longer climb under full throttle with max trim will ensure that the batt packs aren't abused. It's up to the owner to make a choice. Noone is being forced to buy an indicator.

BTW what does the manual for the new 1250 series CX2 and its 3in1 say about it?
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 10:48 AM
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Here is my charging "apparatus" I set up.

The power supply wouldn't take the gator grips, so I had to do some rigging.

This is temporary ttill I make something more permanent and till my battery bunker arrives.





Also, I still think I basically killed that Eflight pack.

Today, I ran it just 4 minutes, let it cool, and put it on charge.

It said it was down to 16%. Then started charging. I'm letting the charger choose how to charge it.

Correct that the 4S WILL go into restore mode on its own???

Well, after a litttle bit, it said it was at 80%, but had only put in 177 mah and both cells were at 4.1 V each. It said it was going at 0.73A rate, but I dunno about that.

Thoughts?
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 11:43 AM
The Shadows are coming!
Sirion's Avatar
Glen Forrest, Western Australia
Joined Dec 2006
1,373 Posts
Might pay you to drop Jamie an email regarding chargers, etc. I'm not up with it, and use the Eflite stock charger with no probs, even after over a year with 4 packs - they still take 110min to charge from about 6.45V under load to topped up at 8.3V no-load. - and provide 10-15 min flight time depending on maneuvers. There's also a thread on batteries and chargers, etc, plus you can do a search on the threads from the blue menu bars.

BTW - I can't get the pics to blow up so I can see the gear. It takes off to some other web site.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 11:53 AM
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Bill Glover's Avatar
United Kingdom, Bracknell
Joined Nov 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirion
BTW what does the manual for the new 1250 series CX2 and its 3in1 say about it?
It's not mentioned ... which is why I originally posted it as a 'find'. Indoors it works perfectly, I agree if flying outside in bright sun it would be hard to see.

The manual gives a low voltage limit of 6V in flight, btw.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 12:33 PM
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Oregon, USA
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover
It's not mentioned ... which is why I originally posted it as a 'find'. Indoors it works perfectly, I agree if flying outside in bright sun it would be hard to see.

The manual gives a low voltage limit of 6V in flight, btw.
When my CX2 no longer can pull out of ground effect my batt usually shows about 6.5 volts (+ or -).

Flying indoors even with my 20' high ceiling I haven't found it a problem (yet) as I have recognized the low voltage coming and made it back to the floor safely. I could see where a person could get into trouble with outdoor high altitude at the time of low voltage
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 01:35 PM
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So, I'm guessing this DPM is easier to install than the manual makes it appear.

I'm looking at the front of my CX2. There is what I think is the ESC. It has several plugs going into it and their plug spots are labeled Rudd, Alier, throttle, etc

I'm guessing I SIMPLY unplug the throttle one, and plug that wire into the DPM and the DPM wire into the ESC where I unplugged the other wire from.

CORRECT??

However, trying to unplug that wire, theres no room. You're pushing right back into the motor.

My eyes might not be cut out for this stuff.

I wanted to ask if I'm doing this correctly before I proceed.

Also, the instructions with it talk about "turning off" the esc. I don't think this ESC has an on off. It talks about settings on the DPM, with little switches I need to set. I DON'T see any switches on the DPM.

Tthanks anyone who can help
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 02:15 PM
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By the way, This red light green light warning thats built into the CX2 seems like crap.

I just really checked that out. Well, I can put in a fresh pack, and throttle up.

It runs green, but I can go high enough on the throttle to make it burstt red and then back when I let the throttle down. Thats on a FRESH pack.

Well, when I stopped running that pack after 8 minutes, it was still doing the same thing. I put the pack on my 4S.

4S says it was at 13% and 3.74V.

So, how can I use it as a warning when it goes below 20% anyway?

I'm gonna look up this liglow stuff.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 02:24 PM
The Shadows are coming!
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Glen Forrest, Western Australia
Joined Dec 2006
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There you go -

http://tjtrc.com/Liglow.htm

Lots of options - including a power takeoff to the kit. Operates off the fifth channel if you want the landing light. Thanh runs it, good guy.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 02:37 PM
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The red-green light on a 3 in 1 only goes red at a certain point in the throttle. With a charged battery or alamost dead it will turn of and on at the same point of throttle position. So its really kind of useless.

Hay Rhizzlebop, Have you changed any blades as you noticed that stock battery dieing quik?

You tracking may be off. The DN batteries can hold out a little longer with bad tracking but the stock eflight battery will go about 3 or 4 min on the nose.

Check the bottom and the top. The bottom isnt adjustable but you can swap blades to get it close. Keep an eye on the numbers by the blade mounts,it definatly helps.

Hold heli up to a white background(easier to see) And throttle her up pretty good ,make it wanna pull on your and good. (use enough throttle where you know it would be actually air born) and go eye level with the blades . See it the tips are looking seperated .Like kinda so =. The closer you can get them together the better. They can be up to almost 1/2 in apart it seems. When they are off bad the blade noise actually sounds "meaner" like there doing a better job almost. When there tracked well ( on the same plain). They smooth out and sound totally diffrerant.

When there not tracking well it actually takes a lot more throttle to run the heli.........the only performance I actually seen bad tracking hinder is shorter fly times..........by a bunch!

I wasnt a beleiver in any of this until I thought I smokes my E-flight battery............But my Dn 850's were doing pretty well. So I thought until a good blade track was done ; )
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 02:59 PM
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Houston, TX
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstcriusen
Hold heli up to a white background(easier to see) And throttle her up pretty good ,make it wanna pull on your and good. (use enough throttle where you know it would be actually air born) and go eye level with the blades . See it the tips are looking seperated .Like kinda so =. The closer you can get them together the better. They can be up to almost 1/2 in apart it seems. When they are off bad the blade noise actually sounds "meaner" like there doing a better job almost. When there tracked well ( on the same plain). They smooth out and sound totally diffrerant.

When there not tracking well it actually takes a lot more throttle to run the heli.........the only performance I actually seen bad tracking hinder is shorter fly times..........by a bunch!

I wasnt a beleiver in any of this until I thought I smokes my E-flight battery............But my Dn 850's were doing pretty well. So I thought until a good blade track was done ; )
How do you know what blade to add the wait to or how much?
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 03:13 PM
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Ok, I took a look at the tracking.

As best as I can tell, the blades tracking just fine.

Their appears to be one plane, maybe 3/16ths of an inch thick as the blades spin.

That is basically the cross sectional depth of one blade, so they seem fine.

Same goes for the top and bottom blades.

I dunno.

That DN pack, I ran for 8 minutes, and it was already down to 13% when I put it on the charger.

Seems kinda fast. These are DN 900s.

I hate to buy another module to warn of low volts when I just bought the DPM from FMA. I just can't figure how to hook this ninny up.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 03:15 PM
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Do you guys oil or grease the main gear and motor gear mesh at all?
Seems like those plastic gears would wear out fast.


Also, for Siron, I'll see if I can repost those pics.

Not sure how to make em clickable/bigger.
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Old Jan 20, 2008, 03:24 PM
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My charging "apparatus"


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