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Old Sep 08, 2007, 02:50 PM
It's all up from here..
CuznWeakEyes's Avatar
Prince Rupert, Canada
Joined Aug 2007
2,286 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BryMeister
Diggs,

[snip]
Yes, I am looking forward to the better motors. I have a strong background in AC and DC motors, so I know how to break in a new set of brushes and properly season the commutator. I did not order the silver brushes right off the bat, but I definitely will once the carbon runs out.

[snip]

Bry
Hey Bry...welcome to the forum! Always great to have some different expertise available for "squeezing info"......speaking of which, could you please enlighten us on your method of motor break-in....? I have Xtreme motors on order and want to "coddle" them as much as possible. Thanks..

Cuzn
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Old Sep 08, 2007, 03:09 PM
It's all up from here..
CuznWeakEyes's Avatar
Prince Rupert, Canada
Joined Aug 2007
2,286 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiggyDiggs
[snip] Cheaper/fewer repairs. Once you can fly that well, jump into either the blade or the rex or whatever 400+ sized heli you want. I think you will save far more than the cost of the little FP during the learning process. Single rotor is WAY more difficult than the good ole CX2 (which I still have 3 of)

Also, the FP will use the same batteries as your CX2.

Diggs
For a month and a half I have been flying my CX2 mostly (in the living room) and occasionally the Honeybee FP. Can hover a whole battery with the CX2 with little apprehension......hover the FP for about 15 seconds and what an adrenaline rush...!!! Funny thing with the FP, last night I replaced the 8.4 V NiMh batt with a fully charged 2s CX2 Eflite LiPo and the change in flight dynamics is exquisite....! It dropped 43 grams and gained a minute of very stable hover without so much as raising my Blood Pressure.......! Man, I have got to find a gymnasium in which to fly these things...........!!! Strange thing is, now I seem to be perusing the ads for deals on CP machines...........!!! Will this ever stop....!!!

By the way, broke my first CX2 heli blade last night.......touched wood......(damn bookcase jumped right into the flight path......)

Cuzn

Oh, this is soo much fun!!
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Old Sep 08, 2007, 03:42 PM
Not your average DiggsyBear
Diggs's Avatar
Raleigh, NC
Joined Dec 2006
8,859 Posts
Yeah, the FP is way better flying it with the Lipo packs. Awesome how the same packs work in both perfectly!! I really like what they have done with the CX2. I think I am going to have to sell of what I have and get a new version so I can drop in a nice Gyro and see what she does. the G90 should lock it down nice.

Diggs
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Old Sep 08, 2007, 06:43 PM
Wishing I had more money!
BryMeister's Avatar
Western Michigan, USA
Joined Sep 2007
327 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CuznWeakEyes
Hey Bry...welcome to the forum! Always great to have some different expertise available for "squeezing info"......speaking of which, could you please enlighten us on your method of motor break-in....? I have Xtreme motors on order and want to "coddle" them as much as possible. Thanks..

Cuzn
I'll post some more information later, as I am packing for a trip right now. However, I will need to find out whether or not the brushes have been seated already, or whether I will have to do that by running the motors. If they are already seated properly, then all you need to do is to properly "season" the communtator. Does anyone know the answer to this already?
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Old Sep 08, 2007, 06:55 PM
RC Reviews & Tx Setup Guides
Tom Z's Avatar
United States
Joined Sep 2007
3,492 Posts
Here is my Breaking In Method I use with my Xtreme 180 Motors
with Silver Brushes. Have used it on the Carbon Brushes Also.

I know it is another forum other than this but I see people posting
other forums here so I assume it is OK, let me know if isn't.

Guide To Breaking In Your Brushed Electric Motors (Seating The Brushes)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5628228/tm.htm


Tom
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 12:52 AM
It's all up from here..
CuznWeakEyes's Avatar
Prince Rupert, Canada
Joined Aug 2007
2,286 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiggyDiggs
Yeah, the FP is way better flying it with the Lipo packs. Awesome how the same packs work in both perfectly!! I really like what they have done with the CX2. I think I am going to have to sell of what I have and get a new version so I can drop in a nice Gyro and see what she does. the G90 should lock it down nice.

Diggs
Yeah....what a surprise!! But then, the current draw from the single motor in the FP is likely much less than the draw from 2 BCX2 motors.....so it works.

I finally have my CX2 under control (cleared up the adverse yaw problem....not yet quite sure how I did it.....I was fiddling with the gain control and that seemed to fix it). Now I just have to dial in a smidge of trim as the battery runs down. I have some more parts coming to play with.....basically Xtreme without the tail boom . Might do that if I decide to brave going outside with it.... I am basically a scale nut, and dig reality........like the heli-logging that is going on across the harbour from me....!! I would like to make a fuselage of this Kamov 226. Haven't done modelling like that for many years.......
[IMG]Kamov226[/IMG]

Instead of acquiring the new CX2, I might get 2 Lama 4's and make a Ka-22 VINTOKRYL or Kamov V-100 style craft......what can I say.....I like odd aircraft.....!

Regards,

Cuzn
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 01:21 AM
It's all up from here..
CuznWeakEyes's Avatar
Prince Rupert, Canada
Joined Aug 2007
2,286 Posts
Tom Z....thanks for the detailed info on the motor break in. I have bookmarked the page and certainly will apply it when my motors arrive.....!

Bry.....looking forward to "commutator seasoning"....sounds like it could be rather delicioso, hmmmmm.......???!!!? (sorry, no puns like "food for thought".....)

Cuzn
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 06:44 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2007
20 Posts
Pinion Wear and Cooling

Hi,

This is my first post. Read all of it and wonderfull info.

Just wanted to share a cooling mod to the stock motors I made using a standard
cooling element for voltage regulators. Cut in 2, removed some thickness and drilled some holes to lessen the weight. Although I have the impression to sense the couple of grams added when in flight, it really seems to help to keep the motors cooler.

Also posted some pictures about the wear of the motor pinions. Would this be normal after using some 40 packs? I'm using teflon grease. Really quitens things down and seem to run more smoothly, but could also increase the wear? Strange.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 09:19 AM
Wishing I had more money!
BryMeister's Avatar
Western Michigan, USA
Joined Sep 2007
327 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Z
Here is my Breaking In Method I use with my Xtreme 180 Motors
with Silver Brushes. Have used it on the Carbon Brushes Also.

I know it is another forum other than this but I see people posting
other forums here so I assume it is OK, let me know if isn't.

Guide To Breaking In Your Brushed Electric Motors (Seating The Brushes)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5628228/tm.htm


Tom
Thanks, Tom for that detailed break-in information. Here are a couple of my own thoughts:

1. You don't have to use water or a solvent like alcohol to break your brushes in.

2. If you do use water, be SURE to use distilled water.

3. If you use water, I recommend placing the motors in a warm (not hot) oven for an hour or so after you have blown them out with compressed air to make sure that all water has evaporated from inside the casing. Be sure to allow plenty of time for cooling to room temperature afterwards.

4. Carbon dust is conductive. Believe me, I know. I used to work on 500 KW AC/DC motor / generators and we used to spend hours blowing the carbon dust out of those machines because it would reduce our ground resistance.

More later!

Bry
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 10:21 AM
Born again newbie
dmulligan's Avatar
Calgary, Canada
Joined Jul 2007
994 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gedp
Hi,

This is my first post. Read all of it and wonderfull info.

Just wanted to share a cooling mod to the stock motors I made using a standard
cooling element for voltage regulators. Cut in 2, removed some thickness and drilled some holes to lessen the weight. Although I have the impression to sense the couple of grams added when in flight, it really seems to help to keep the motors cooler.

Also posted some pictures about the wear of the motor pinions. Would this be normal after using some 40 packs? I'm using teflon grease. Really quitens things down and seem to run more smoothly, but could also increase the wear? Strange.
Why would you make your own heat sink like that? I think the E-Flight one is only $4.

Others have reported the pinions wearing like that. I don't know if they used Teflon grease or not. I am only 10-15 packs in and do not recall seeing brass dust like that all over. I will have to check again when I get home.
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Last edited by dmulligan; Sep 09, 2007 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 10:40 AM
RC Reviews & Tx Setup Guides
Tom Z's Avatar
United States
Joined Sep 2007
3,492 Posts
CuznWeakEyes, BryMeister , Your welcome. Glad to help out. It is a good article I stumbled across. I use the dry method putting them on my power supply and running for over an hour or more checking the brushes every 15-20 minutes or so. I put wire leads on them and just unclip them and take out the brush one by one too see if they are done seating or not. When finished I clean the brush and commutator particles off.
A note for doing the sliver brushes. They take MUCH less time to seat in. I actually ruined a set running them too long. Took them down to almost 25% left!

Do you guys know after you run the motors a long time and you get build up on the commutator and brushes, can compressed air blow it off or do you need to take apart the motors to clean them? I assume this buildup isn't good and reduces conductibility. Correct me if Iím wrong.

BryMeister, Good tips. Placing the motors in a warm (not hot) oven for an hour or so after you have blown them out with compressed air to make sure that all water has evaporated from inside the casing is a good idea. This will work well after using the wet method either using distilled water or a solvent like alcohol.


Tom
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 11:54 AM
Wishing I had more money!
BryMeister's Avatar
Western Michigan, USA
Joined Sep 2007
327 Posts
Quote:
Do you guys know after you run the motors a long time and you get build up on the commutator and brushes, can compressed air blow it off or do you need to take apart the motors to clean them? I assume this buildup isn't good and reduces conductibility. Correct me if Iím wrong.
It's bad for a lot of reasons. To answer your question, as long as the motor has ventilation ports, you should be able to clean them by blowing some compressed air (not too high pressure, please) into the top of the motor.

Thanks for the top about the silver brushes. I have a couple of Xtreem 180's coming next week. I didn't get the silver brushes, but I will when the carbon brushes run out.

Bry
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Last edited by BryMeister; Sep 09, 2007 at 11:55 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 01:29 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2007
20 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmulligan
Why would you make your own heat sink like that? I think the E-Flight one is only $4.
Should have explained: part of the fun for me is fiddling around in the workshop. I also thought the eflite heatsink doesn't have very much contact with the motors, but I'm not sure.
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 03:55 PM
Registered User
robertbick's Avatar
Broadalbin, NY
Joined Sep 2007
66 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiggyDiggs
The DNs rock. My favorite CX2 pack... If you can get the 900s over the 850s do it. They fit nice and snug in the holder and give just a touch more time and I swear a bit more umph to the flight. Might be in my head, but it felt more powerful to me.
Which DN should I get for my new CX2? The 900mah 10C or the 850mah 15C?
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Old Sep 09, 2007, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2007
14 Posts
Have a look here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=738131
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