The servo arms can be repositioned on the servos if you run out of travel in one direction.
The length of the link between the servo and the surface is adjustable.
Or, remove the arm, and replace it offset in the direction that will give more travel .
The servo pushrod can be moved out from the 1st hole to increase the surface travel.
Hovering like an expert takes merely years, the experts tell me.

Hi Sparky:

Once again, thanks for your insight!

I've read about moving the pushrod out one hole, I'm thinking I should wait until I get better. From what I understand, it may move farther, but it's harder to control.

Any one have any thoughts on aftermarket batteries? I know E-flite is around $27.00. I've seen them as low as $16.00 -- are they any good, safe?

Happy Holidays!
Robert

Another questions/concern:

I'm trying to adjust the tracking of the upper blades in hopes this will stop the vibration (when I have just the upper blades turning). After each small adjustment to the flybar lingage, I would check for tracking and vibration (I watch the tail).

When I finally got the tail to stop vibrating, the tracking of the blades were off about 1/4". I then adjusted the linkage in the other direction. When I got the blades to track perfectly, the vibration came back.

I then pushed one weight on the end of the flybar in, the vibration got worse. Finally, when I pushed the weight from the other side in about 1/4", the vibration stopped and the blades are still tracking.

Does all this sound right? I figured you would want the blades to track as perfectly as possible and if I have to have the weights moved a bit to stop vibration, that's a good thing as well.

I appreciate any comments back.

Thanks!

Robert

Originally Posted by Peregrine Falcon

Another questions/concern:

I'm trying to adjust the tracking of the upper blades in hopes this will stop the vibration (when I have just the upper blades turning). After each small adjustment to the flybar lingage, I would check for tracking and vibration (I watch the tail).

When I finally got the tail to stop vibrating, the tracking of the blades were off about 1/4". I then adjusted the linkage in the other direction. When I got the blades to track perfectly, the vibration came back.

I then pushed one weight on the end of the flybar in, the vibration got worse. Finally, when I pushed the weight from the other side in about 1/4", the vibration stopped and the blades are still tracking.

Does all this sound right? I figured you would want the blades to track as perfectly as possible and if I have to have the weights moved a bit to stop vibration, that's a good thing as well.

I appreciate any comments back.

Thanks!

Robert

If it flyes without vibration, its all good

I've read that some people had been having problems with out-of-the-box quality and trimming but I wanted to report that mine was very nearly perfectly trimmed (within controller trimming) and flew just fine. Tail was very solid but I turned down the gyro gain a bit to get a more fluid feel. About to put on a stersman boom while I'm waiting for the battery to charge. Good luck to everyone else!

I went to go move out the rods on the servos to get a bit more forward speed and I was wondering if someone could explain it a bit more in detail. Should I have to take off the arm on the servo? How do I make sure it's in the right position again once i'm done? Does everyone else have 5 holes, cuz i thought I read that it was only 3? Don't want to mess anything up to bad...

thanks

The left side on the CX.. pitch pushrod moved out 2 holes to the 3rd hole for more forward flight response.

Originally Posted by Sparky Paul

The left side on the CX-2..

That's funny, I don't have a thing sticking out of my 4 in 1 on my CX2 that says "52".

Yer right. eer... left..
That's the CX.
The CX-2.. both sides.. pushrods in the first hole.

Thanks for the pics but what I'm trying to do is move the pushrod out without screwing anything up, any instructions?

I'm sure this has been answered somewhere here in the 159 posts but I just got myself a CX-2 and it starts perfect but after about a min the heli wants to constantly yaw to the left-nose to the left that is. What gives? Should I adjust something? The 4-in-1? I fly large electric heli's, Swift right now, and I'm not familiar with the non-heading hold all in one gyros.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

Tom

I second the question on the batteries. I'm about to pick one up from LHS but if they can be had for half the price....

Originally Posted by litespeed

I'm sure this has been answered somewhere here in the 159 posts but I just got myself a CX-2 and it starts perfect but after about a min the heli wants to constantly yaw to the left-nose to the left that is. What gives? Should I adjust something? The 4-in-1? I fly large electric heli's, Swift right now, and I'm not familiar with the non-heading hold all in one gyros.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!

Tom

Turn the proportional pot screw a few degrees clockwise. You'll never get it to hold a steady tail for the entire flight, but fine tuning the 4in1 pot will help a great deal. You want to strive for a condition where you're just tapping the Tx rudder trim occasionally during flight for requred corrections. Or, like many of the old timers do, just fly the stick.

Originally Posted by freecheeseman

Thanks for the pics but what I'm trying to do is move the pushrod out without screwing anything up, any instructions?

.
Unscrew the servo arm from the servo. Don't move the servo.
Remove the pushrod from the arm.
Enlarge the hole in the servo arm at the new location.. the factory hole is too small.
Insert the pushrod in the arm.
Attach the servo arm to the servo.
Check your zero, go fly.

Just thought I'd share my videos of my new CX2 after I got the hang of it.
http://media.putfile.com/100-6277
http://media.putfile.com/Blade-CX-video-1