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Old Dec 06, 2006, 06:41 AM
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Just for fun. We might need this.
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Old Dec 06, 2006, 07:51 AM
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In anticipation of tail heaviness, I dug out a little foam away in the noses and installed lead balls in each fuselage.

All 'inside' jobs are considered completed and the next step is to assemble the fuselage halves with epoxy. Plenty of masking tape is necessary for the job. It is crucial at this point to check for the fuselage alignment, or any distortion will be permanent later.
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Old Dec 06, 2006, 05:48 PM
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Hey Albert,

I'd go with a solid joiner, I use 8mm and this is strong enough for frontside antics. Besides it withstands 1000 foot dives easy enough which is a good test IMO When compared it, the tubes were more flexy, the solid steel stiffer (but wouldn't bust in emergencies). 10mm would be hyper stiff, and desirable, but it wouldn't fit the wing camber depth in the vicinity of the subrib.

I use an 11/32 K&H brass joiner tube which the 8mm carbon tube goes into quite nicely with an "acceptable" degree of slop.

I was also thinking about your noses. IMO, the foam won't be adding much useful strength, and will just stove in for the one pointers. I rekon you need to get something substantial up there for the first inch and a half. I use a solid epoxy chop (small glass fibres) jammed up there in mine. For your situation, perhaps you could run a channel from the main gear compartment, and when it's all done just pour some resin in there to fill it up?

Sam.
who marvels at 3 jarts on the go
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Old Dec 06, 2006, 07:49 PM
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I already have solid carbon rod and brass tubes for joiners. I'll do some experiments to see which one do the job best.

Yes, the foam does not add much strength at all. But they do spread the stresses very well as they make the structure stiff with just a thin layer of glass. Furthermore, as I have mentioned before I'll have carbon longerons along the fuselage. But for the first few inches of the nose, I'll probably leave it as it is. It'll be a weak point for failure in case of bad landings. It'll be easier to repair the nose tip than the centre part of the fuselage. Breaking the tip should not affect the airworthiness of the plane but break the centre part will definitely be. Anyway, it's just my concept waiting to be proven.

Thanks for the input anyway. At least I know I my experiment fails, I will have successful examples to follow.
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Old Dec 11, 2006, 01:00 AM
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The fins were temporarily tacked on to the fuselage to blend the fuselage joint with it. After that, the fins were removed and the carbon longerons were installed on both sides of each fuselage. Prior to that, a small groove was sanded to receive the longeron on each side. The dents and gouges on the foam surfaces were filled and sanded. The fuselages are ready for glassing.
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Old Dec 11, 2006, 01:04 AM
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The fuselages havd received the first layer of medium weight cloth. Now awaiting for the resin to cure.
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Old Mar 05, 2007, 09:02 AM
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After cutting the wing cores a few months ago, I got distracted by other projects. Now they are done, I expedite on the project in order to get at least one model flying before the monsson wind ends. The wing core are cut from pink foam and are covered with 1/64" plywood. The LEs are made of spruce instead of balsa in order to take the bashing of bush landings. Although it sounds heavy, the fuselage and wing assembly weighs at 20 oz at this point, without radio, paint and tailplane.
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Old Mar 08, 2007, 12:51 AM
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The fuselage and canopy are painted with a thick coat of primer before rubbing down with wet & dry fine sandpaper. After filling and sanding the dents and pin holes with putty, I coat them with another layer of primer before the white Automotive paint. Some dust managed to get stuck on the wet paint but I'll leave the paint to cure and buff them off later. Anyway, I decided to do the paint scheme after the maiden. For the time being, I'll leave it as it is.
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Old Mar 08, 2007, 12:53 AM
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I tried covering the wings with Monokote, but with poor results. It will not stick well at low heat but when I turned up the heat, it starts to bubble. I tore off the monokote and re-do it with Oracover, which turns out to be much better.
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Old Mar 08, 2007, 03:13 AM
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I've fully covered the wings and tail. The aileron servos are installed in place with silicon.
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Old Mar 08, 2007, 05:03 AM
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Servo's

Hey Joe,

Looks great. Are those Hitec servo's I see in the wing.

I used the HS125MG on my jart and have already stripped 3 of them. I'm now planning on moving to something else, probably JR's
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Old Mar 08, 2007, 07:14 AM
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Yes, they are. I've heard about that but since I got them sitting on my table for months, I decided to go ahead and use them anyway. If they got stripped, they can still be easiliy replaced.
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Old Mar 08, 2007, 07:49 AM
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I dry fitted all the parts and equipment. At this point, it weighs only 30oz. I'll expect to gain another 1 or 2 after completion and balancing.
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Old Mar 08, 2007, 07:52 PM
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Hey Joe,

FWIW, I've only had one issue with 125's and that was after my Jart landed off the air for a pretty ugly landing. No structural damage, just 2 stripped servos - one aileron, the other elevator.

Sam.
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Old Mar 09, 2007, 05:12 AM
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When I was trying to spray some Metallic Purple Lustrekote over the white, the expired spray can give me a shock when it intermittently blurted blotches of paint and destroyed my work. I resort to remove all the paint and primer with thinner and started all over.

After giving the final coat of primer, *my wife told me that it looks much better with the gray primer on instead of the white. I gladly accept the idea thinking that I would not have the time for the white paint anyway if I want to fly it tommorow. For the whole afternoon, I did most of the stuff.

I still have the ailerons to rig and install the wing retention system. I can now estimate that the AUW will be around 36oz or slightly over 1kg.

* Hint : When you wife does contribute to your hobby, you better heed for her advise if you want to stay in this hobby, whether you like it or not.
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