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Old Jan 21, 2009, 02:09 PM
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778 Posts
put some skis on that thing, and get it in the air!
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 09:26 PM
Remember the 131st TFW MO ANG
NanoSio2's Avatar
USA, MN, Apple Valley
Joined May 2005
988 Posts
Here's mine - just flew the maiden today. The flight went well - can't believe how slow it flies! Also, here's a pic from airliners.net of the full scale plane I intended to model.

Scott
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Old Nov 07, 2009, 10:06 PM
csc
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United States, AZ, Phoenix
Joined Apr 2004
251 Posts
Very Nice! I need to pull mine out and get it finished.
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Old Nov 08, 2009, 11:12 AM
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delsol's Avatar
Merced,Ca.
Joined Jul 2006
412 Posts
Scott,
Looks really nice, flew my 180 last week. Your right it does fly slow but that one of the things I like about it.
Brad
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Old Nov 08, 2009, 11:55 AM
BYOP - Build Your Own Planes
Mountain Models's Avatar
United States, WI, Appleton
Joined Mar 2001
1,725 Posts
Scott,

I like how it came out. You did a good job making it look like the real one in the picture.

I need to finish up a new flyable one for myself again. I miss flying the Cessna, it's a real pussycat.

Brian
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Old Nov 09, 2009, 07:09 PM
Remember the 131st TFW MO ANG
NanoSio2's Avatar
USA, MN, Apple Valley
Joined May 2005
988 Posts
Thanks everyone for the comments! If I get a volunteer for the camera, I'll try to record some flying video.

It's a great kit Brian - I really enjoyed the build. I'm sure I'll build another - maybe a floatplane next time.

This was my third balsa build, my first using Titebond II instead of CA, and my first using a magnetic build board. I didn't realize how much I disliked CA and T-pins.

Scott
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Old Nov 22, 2009, 02:04 PM
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Joined Sep 2009
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I'd like to build one of these and start with a brushless outrunner. Does anyone have any suggestions on a motor mount which does NOT use a stick?

Thanks
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Old Nov 22, 2009, 04:13 PM
Neophyte hacker
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Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
15,948 Posts
On my old one I did use a CDROM that was not on a stick. I installed another firewall to mount the motor. Very simple.

The only problem is you have to carve out the nose cone to get clearance for the bell.

Might want to try the little Hacker A10. It is small enough that it will fit in the nose cone area.

Each outrunner is different in diameter and depth so you just have to pick one and then make the motor mount.

charlie
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 05:14 PM
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United States, AL, Tuscaloosa
Joined Jan 2014
10 Posts
MM C-180 wing discrepancy - need help

I am building the MM C-180, and while the fuselage went smoothly I got stuck as I started the wing. The balsa for the trailing edge on the left hand side does not match the plan, being about a centimeter short. I've measured the plans from center to tip and the left side measurement is 46 cm as compared to 45 cm on the right.

I don't whether to try to build two wings according to the right hand drawing or even how to attempt that. I've tried unsuccessfully to reach Brian at Mountain Models, with no response to either phone messages or email. Does anyone here have any idea how I can get moving again on this plane?
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 06:27 PM
M0unt@in M0del$ minion
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United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2002
7,324 Posts
I built mine a LONG time ago and had no issues that I can recall. To see a part not fit in a Mountain Models kit is something that doesn't happen with any frequency but something obviously went wrong there. I'd just cut and glue a piece of scrap balsa to it and move on. Don't let that slow you down. This thing comes out so light that if you do even a reasonably decent glue job that add on piece will never compromise the wing integrity.

Brian is working hard to finish his degree and can be hard to reach at times. Just post questions here and you'll get all kinds of good help.

Joe
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 08:57 PM
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Raleigh/Durham Intl, North Carolina, United States
Joined Nov 2001
1,171 Posts
if the balsa trailing edges are the same length, just glue the last rib to the end of the trailing edge and dont worry about the plans. Just make the ribs parallel to the ribs on the plans. You could even make the spars the same length on both sides and mark the rib locations on both in the same place before pinning them to the plans. This will insure every thing will be the same side to side. If you can see through the plans, you could turn them over and build on the back side also.
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Old Dec 11, 2014, 09:39 PM
M0unt@in M0del$ minion
turbojoe's Avatar
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2002
7,324 Posts
Yep, listen to Dave. He's the one that designed this little jewel.

Joe
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 09:57 AM
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United States, AL, Tuscaloosa
Joined Jan 2014
10 Posts
Thanks very much guys. Joe, my first thought was to just add a piece, but then the wings would be different lengths or I was afraid something would be out of whack further along in the build. I think i'm more comfortable with Dblum's (Dave's?) approach, though it may be a bit tricky for a relative novice like myself who is so dependent on following the plans to the letter. I'm going to move forward with it though and may post further questions if I get stuck.

Thanks again,
Richard
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 06:28 PM
M0unt@in M0del$ minion
turbojoe's Avatar
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2002
7,324 Posts
Man, I gotta pay more attention. I just re-read your first post. Not sure why I thought you were saying the parts were too short when you clearly said the plans were not consistent side to side. Sure glad Dave stepped in and saved you from me.

Joe
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 08:38 PM
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United States, AL, Tuscaloosa
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10 Posts
I'm glad I saved me from you too Joe! I just figured you were a little more relaxed in your tolerances than I'm comfortable with!
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