|Nov 12, 2006, 09:40 AM|
Avro Vulcan easy build plans
This model was designed by my flying buddy Richard Phillips.
I had test flown his model and praised it up so much,that when he went away he offered to build me one. Two hours later I was picking it up.
He has asked me to post plans and notes for the build as he is not so hot on the PC side
Just finished working on the build for an Avro Vulcan pusher prop model.
It uses the same construction as my estratos model, keeping it basic, taping rather than gluing all the wing sections and CF spars together, UHU por gluing the fuz bits together.
The model has turned out to be a very good flyer indeed.
Richard modded his construction to make cutting out and then the fitting of your radio gear a bit easier
here are the drawings for the build
|Nov 12, 2006, 09:46 AM|
pics and plans
ImagesView all Images in thread
|Nov 12, 2006, 10:41 AM|
Using the simpler layout plan
Cut out the main 800x600 wing triangle
Cut out the two wing extensions for the Vulcan shape
Cut the triangle into three sections along the front spar line and the elevon spar line
From the elevon section the two pointed ends are cut off, these are refitted to the spar and wing extensions later, forming the wings end/tip part.
From the elevon section a 75mm length is removed, this is for the fuz spacer and will go between the working elevons.
The elevons will need shaping later as per plan 1, they are 2” wide parallel over the center section of the wing, then they sweep back to the tips
Use 2” wide white tape tp and bottom on all panel joins
Fix the 3mm CF spar rods in place across the wing sections.
On the large panel one spar goes on the elvon hinge line and one goes to the front of the panel
Now refit the front section back with tape top and bottom
You should now have one large triangle and a lot of smaller bits left
Work out the length of the rods needed for the leading edges of the triangle., don’t forget they have togo further than just the edges of the triangle, they go to where the tip of the wing will be.
Tape into place….the rods should extend a good couple of inches from the triangles tips.
Now you can tape the wing extensions and the small tip bits you cut from the elevons.
And also tape the fuz spacer central on the elevon hinge line
Your two elevons can be fitted now or later, but it is probably easier to shape them now as the whole wing can be laid flat on the cutting board.
When I fitted the elevons I tape covered them completely on both sides to stiffen them
|Nov 12, 2006, 11:01 AM|
Decide on the method of construction and the internal width needed to fit your preferred battery into
Make two horizontal spacers .. after working out the full width, internal + walls
1 …from the front of the wing to the point of the nose
2 …from the rear of the central elevon spacer to the motor mount position
Tape in place
In Richards original, the top and bottom of body were carved from a lump of polystyrene block
I then found that the polystyrene was a bit soft for fitting the servos in through, and that the body was not wide enough to take my battery, so most of my lower fuz was made up using 6mm depron, spaced wide enough to take my gear, basically a simple box structure with rounded corners for a bit of shape. The lower front curved nose section was left carved from the polystyrene block
I used UHU por to glue the body together, and then to fit the upper and lower body sections in place over and below the wing
|Nov 12, 2006, 11:27 AM|
C.O.G. …..11 inches measured forward from the rear of the elevon at the next to fuz position
AUW 8 ½ oz without battery
CD rom type motor used gws 8x4 direct hyper prop 11.1v 1800mA battery weight 3 ½ oz. 12A speed control couple of 9 or 5g servos hitec rec
With its rearward position it is best to use as light a motor as you have, or your batteries will be right up the nose end for balance
Flight time 20 mins at full power, but it only needs ½ power to cruise so …loads of time
heres a pic of the motor ...highly recomended better than 1:1 power/thrust on this setup
|Nov 12, 2006, 11:47 AM|
Heres a link to my estratos, a similar build delta
My 1m version now fitted with a KF top step, which makes a much stiffer wing
|Nov 12, 2006, 08:07 PM|
There's that blue motor again .... !!!!!!!!!
Love the Vulcan , with it's "cranked" wing!!!!!!!!!!!! ... We HAVE to add this one to the build list...Thanks for the plans ...!!!!!
That taping method is very interesting , could you please describe it in a bit more detail ... what specific advantages does it offer... it does seem like a really good idea!!!!
|Nov 13, 2006, 02:48 PM|
I just use 2" wide coloured tape to fix the spars etc in place. In the UK I get it from Staples, a stationary shop, it is sold as packing tape in a variety of colours ..You should stick about 1" of the 2" all along top edge of wing, leaving the remainder loose, turn wing over so you have the sticky side up, place the spar along the edge as tight as posible, then wrap the loose tape over and stick it to the wing..benefits 1...easy removal of spars without being covered with glue. 2...It also stiffens up the depron. 3..depending on the colours used this can also be the models decoration. 4 ...its quick!
On the vulcan the wings leading edge shapes are stuck on similarly, using 2" top and bottom, that now equals 2 layers of tape, even stronger and stiffer,
The elevons are similarly hinged, another layer, but have care to fix the tape with the elevons bent in the oposite direction to the side you are sticking the tape to.... if you dont do this the elevons will not move at all.
I also tape all leading edges with 3/4" clear tape to prevent rips in the depron if you catch anything in landing.
More tape on bottom of fuz for same reason
I then coated the depron and tape with an almost clear primer which gave the coloured acrylic paints something to stick to. for this I used a Pactra sealer bought from my model shop UK.
sorry if I keep pluging that blue motor, but it really is that good, £12-15 in the UK and better performance than my axi 2208/34, less weight, less current drawn, enough thrust to easily fly the vulcan at 1/2 power..
now less than £8 from robotbirds.co.uk
I forgot to say, my vulcan was built with 3mm depron. the wings bounce a bit in gusty conditions but it is more than strong enough for any manouver I can do... It also looks great in the air.
Test flights are absolutely no problem, landing is a doddle, you can raise the nose high and come in at a crawl, with a slight breese you can harrier it to the ground.....
|Nov 17, 2006, 03:05 PM|
just make sure you use 3mm CF rods as spars and for the leading edges and it will be plenty strong enough...
I used 3mm x 0.5mm flats as spars... still ok but wings do bounce about in gusty conditions...
As to videos ive been thinking about that recently, so if I can my mate richard to use the camera you might get lucky.. no promises
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