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Old Nov 17, 2006, 06:18 AM
build, launch, rekit...
Shreve's Avatar
Columbia, MD
Joined Oct 2003
168 Posts
Looks terrific! Thanks for your efforts.
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 09:11 AM
Flying IS the hobby
Upstate, NY
Joined Feb 2002
2,110 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dee-grose
Jack, I'm in awe! You are a true craftsman. That is a work of art you've got there. I might have to contract you to build me one!

War Eagle!

Andy
Andy,

You are right about Jack; he is always looking for ways to make the build go easier; and how to make it less intimidating for first time builders. Jack is always providing me with very valuable feedback, and I truly believe with his help, Mark’s as well as the ones who contribute here we’ll have a better Apogee Sport.

Jose
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 09:12 AM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
Hey Andy. Good to hear from you again. I hope all is well with you and yours.

I appreciate the nice complement. Thank you.

Jack Stephens
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 08:45 PM
Flying IS the hobby
Upstate, NY
Joined Feb 2002
2,110 Posts
Jack,

I still have to send you control horn files; these are based on Mark’s Apogee 400. They’ll benefit the model based on what he said a few post back.

Jose
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 09:20 PM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
Jose,

OK, thanks. I am glad you mentioned it, since I would probably have used the same ones we used on the Apogee 400.

As Mark suggested, I will be paying close attention to maintaining straight pushrod runs between the servos and control horns. A longer elevator horn would definitely make that easier.

Jack Stephens
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 09:24 AM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
Tail Surfaces

The tail surfaces in the kit will be laser cut 1/16” sheet balsa, and the lightening holes will already be cut. The tail surfaces will be covered with the same material as the wing.

Sand the leading edges of the horizontal and vertical stabilizers to an elliptical shape, like an egg. Sand the trailing edges of the horizontal and vertical stabilizers to a tapered profile, ending with a thickness of about 1/32”. There is a photo below of how I sand trailing edges to maintain a consistent thickness.

Using a sharp blade, separate the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer and the rudder from the vertical stabilizer in accordance with the plans. Bevel the front of both the rudder and the elevator to 45 degrees to allow for tape hinging. The bottom of the elevator will be beveled. For right handed launch, the left side of the rudder will be beveled. For left handed launch, the right side of the rudder will be beveled. Said another way, the bevel will be on the same side as the throwing peg. The rudder control horn will be on the side opposite the throwing peg.

The control surfaces on the next prototype will probably be larger, similar to Dr. Mark Drela’s modifications to the Apogee 400.

Jack Stephens
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 01:03 PM
PWP!
ajroahkni's Avatar
USA, HI, Makawao
Joined Oct 2002
3,911 Posts
Jack

I really dig these great pictures - allows me to fully enjoy your craftsman skills!
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 01:26 PM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
John,

Thanks for the good words! I am glad you are enjoying the thread.

Jack Stephens
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 12:28 AM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
Stab Mount Preration

The stab mount block is 25 mm long and 15 mm tall. The stab mount block as provided in the kit must be thinned to 6.2 mm thick to match the boom diameter at that point.

Sand the boom shape into the bottom of the stab mount. Start by filing a notch with a triangular file along the center of the bottom of the mount. This will help to keep the stab mount straight during the initial sanding strokes. The boom shape will be sanded by wrapping a piece of 400 grit sandpaper around the boom where the stab mount will go. Holding the stab mount in one hand and the boom and sandpaper in the other, slide the mount back and forth on the boom until the shape of the boom is sanded into the stab mount. Inspect your work frequently to ensure that the boom contour is being sanded straight.

Round the front and back of the stab mount as shown on the plans.

Jack Stephens
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 03:17 PM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
The Apogee Sport Wing

The next topic to be presented will be building the wing, followed by:

Fitting the Wing to the Pod
Joining the Stab Mount to the Boom
Joining the Fin to the Boom
Covering and Hinging
Equipment Installation

Yes, I have a few things left to do. I am moving slowly because I am also writing the draft assembly instructions for the kit as I go.

For a teaser, the picture below is the Apogee Sport wing as it is today. I still have to apply the D-Box sheeting and leading edge strips to the left wing, and the leading edges and tips have to be shaped and sanded on both wings.

I am very happy with the way the wing is going together. Jose has done a great job of adapting Dr. Drela’s original Apogee design for laser cutting and fast building. And yes, there is some carbon fiber in there.

The wing on the Apogee Sport is very easy to build. There are only two tasks that are a bit time-consuming, those being the shaping of the trailing edge and shaping the leading edge.

Dr. Drela’s airfoil is an important ingredient in the performance of the Apogee Sport, so it is worth extra care to maintain this airfoil during construction. The trailing edge of this wing is triple tapered. It is tapered from front to back like all trailing edges, but it is also tapered in both width and thickness from root to tip. This requires some care in sanding to match up the wing trailing edge to the rib profiles. Sanding the trailing edge to shape before building the wing is recommended.

I used a simple jig, made from common materials, to make shaping the trailing edge easier. Anyone can shape the trailing edge; it just takes a little extra time. My first trailing edge took about 45 minutes to shape, and the second one took about 20 minutes, so it is not an unreasonable task at all. I will show you how I did mine, and that will be my next post.

Please stay tuned to this channel!

Jack Stephens
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 03:25 PM
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Joined Dec 2003
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This is going great! I am tuned in for sure.
Kyle
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 04:00 PM
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Joined Sep 2006
34 Posts
Jack,
Is the tip part of the wing made of solid balsa or it’s planked?
Mifi
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 04:03 PM
Flying IS the hobby
Upstate, NY
Joined Feb 2002
2,110 Posts
Yes, Jack is doing a fantastic job at building this prototype; I have taken the cautious approach to this design, and it has proven to be invaluable. Already, feedback from this build and Mark is being integrated into the next revision.

Having said that, I think this build is very special to all; by displaying Jack’s craftsmanship and with his feedback he’ll allow us to build like him, (well, close ).

Thank you Jack

Jose
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 07:19 PM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
mifi,

The current tip is three layers of 1/16" balsa, much of which gets removed in the shaping and sanding process. Still, the wing tip will probably change somewhat for the next build to further reduce weight at the tips.

You will see changes made as the Apogee Sport evolves. We are getting excellent feedback from a number of sources, including Dr. Drela.

Jack Stephens
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 07:23 PM
Gadsden RC Flyers
Jack Stephens's Avatar
Joined Aug 2004
591 Posts
Jose,

You are being too generous. I appreciate the kind words.

Jack Stephens
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