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Old Nov 17, 2006, 12:39 PM
Ajutor de băgător de seamă
San Carlos, CA
Joined Mar 2004
734 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by elfwreck
Hey now,
Those little hinges are Tyvek.
And in plain English, please? Thanks, Serban
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 01:15 PM
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echoplanar's Avatar
Lafayette, CA
Joined Aug 2002
2,767 Posts
www.tyvek.com/whatistyvek.htm
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 01:33 PM
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elfwreck's Avatar
United States, CA, Oakland
Joined Dec 2002
2,333 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gigelus2k3
And in plain English, please? Thanks, Serban
Hey now,
That was plain english. Stuff's called Tyvek, it's a plastic fiberous material that is really hard to rip. Those cool over night mailers are made of it, you know, the ones you can't tear open to save your donkey.
RobII
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 04:53 PM
zahgurim
Joined Sep 2004
244 Posts
I am waiting for that brown airplane truck right now! Any minute mine should arrive. Love that modern tracking stuff. I am really motivated on the DVII planes right now. I have a 1\4 scale gasser I am getting ready to start working on again now that it is building season. This little one will tide me over until I get the big one finished.
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Old Nov 17, 2006, 06:27 PM
zahgurim
Joined Sep 2004
244 Posts
First impressions of the DVII are great. This plane should fly really well. Very light and built impressively well. These arf 's get better all of the time. I will have to do some mods to fit the AXI motor but should be no problem. I just need to track down all of my servos and gear but this plane will be flying very soon.
The most impressive aspect so far is the wing construction. Both the top and bottom wing have the scale tapering of the airfoil. The benefits may not be as noticeable on the flight charachteristics of such a small plane but that is what made the full scale so special. I think so far Great planes got this one right. The covering even looks very good this time unlike many of my previous GP ARFS.
If only they would make one in a lozenge scheme , then all would be right with the world!
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 08:00 PM
Mark 12:30
TipStalled's Avatar
United States, GA, Alpharetta
Joined Jan 2004
676 Posts
Successful maiden !

A bit breezy today , lined her up facing the wind and off we go !!
Take off was what I consider scale , not very fast and you are definitely flying her off the ground. Got her up high and trimmed her up. Looks VERY NICE in the air. Slowed her down up high and was pleasantly surprised at the glide rate. Did not seem to have a lot of aileron authority but the rudder authority was quite surprising considering its size. Only flew a few circuits as errands and hungry kids beckoned..definitely a keeper !! Landing was good but once again you definitely fly her to the ground .
If only it came with a machine gun for the top wing.......

Some building tips..get some 3x6mm machine screws if you use the recommended motor. The screws that come on the recommended motor are not the correct size for the motor mount....at least mine weren't.
I used dubro mini quick connects instead of the shrink wrap aileron control rod setup in the directions. Much easier. I am still trying to come up with how the Chinese can make such a great plane at such a reasonable cost.....
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 08:58 PM
Ajutor de băgător de seamă
San Carlos, CA
Joined Mar 2004
734 Posts
Help!

All my motors have 90 degree (cross) mounts. Of course, they can't fit the pre-defined nuts.

To me, it looks like I have to butcher the firewall, but maybe someone came up with a smart solution to this problem...

Thanks,

Serban
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 09:08 PM
Fly it like you stole it..
Tram's Avatar
Florence, Al
Joined Oct 2000
29,301 Posts
Now they need a DR1..
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 09:26 PM
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elfwreck's Avatar
United States, CA, Oakland
Joined Dec 2002
2,333 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gigelus2k3
Help!
All my motors have 90 degree (cross) mounts. Of course, they can't fit the pre-defined nuts.
To me, it looks like I have to butcher the firewall, but maybe someone came up with a smart solution to this problem..
Thanks,
Serban
Hey now,
O.k., here the thing: swap the direction of the pilot shaft on your out runner.
This way it's coming out the rear, where the 90* xmount is, right?

Cool.

Now take the stock plywood motor mount from the kit, that three spoked thingie, and lay it down on some 1/8" plywood. Mark the three holes around the outside as well as the center hole.

Save the trisided piece and use a drill (1/8") to drill out the three outter holes and make a pilot hole in the center. Use a reamer or large drill bit to enlarge the center hole to 5/16".

Got that part?

Good.

Now lay you motors mount on this piece of plywood with the pilot shart squarely in the center hole. Mark the mounting holes on the plywood.

Remove the motor and drill out those holes (should be about 1/8"). Now mount your motor to this new plywood mount you made and bolt that, using the supplied bolts and shim sleaves to the firewall.

That's what I did and it works a treat. Quick, easy, accurate. What more could you ask?
RobII
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Old Nov 18, 2006, 09:37 PM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
Gary Hoorn's Avatar
USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,909 Posts
Build is coming along fine even though I am very slow. I am using the recommended motor so mounting is no problem. One thing I definitely did not like was pushing the motor wires through to the rear alongside the motor . They come far too close to the rotating motor case. I drilled a hole in the lower left hand corner of the firewall and passed the wires through that instead. If they should rub and short out on the motor things could get interesting.
I used links on the ailerons as well. I did not like the idea of having no adjustment.
Gary
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 07:55 AM
Registered User
USA, CT, Farmington
Joined Nov 2003
879 Posts
Elfwreck - can you post some pics of your motor installation? It would of great interest to me and many others I'm sure. I'll be picking up one of these beauties today!

Cheers!
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 11:08 AM
Registered User
ducatirdr's Avatar
United States, MA, Sutton
Joined Aug 2006
1,383 Posts
Let me know if you do this as I have the same option

Quote:
Originally Posted by L0stS0ul
I think I'll be picking one of these up. I love the scheme they have. I think I'm gonna retire my Ultimate and I'll have an E-Flite Park 400 920kv motor that I can put in here. Should be more than enough motor for this plane. Hope to pick it up next week.
I have an Ultimate that has more glue than foam on it. I'm not a bad pilot but that thing is a lesson in foam repair. I like flying it but an small puff of air upsets it. Better to have wind or no wind as changable winds put it into the ground pretty easily.

With that said I was wondering if that motor will fit right into the DVII. Let me know how you make out.
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 01:49 PM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
Gary Hoorn's Avatar
USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,909 Posts
If the motor does not fit see post #84. He takes you step by step with any mods necessary.
Gary
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 06:02 PM
zahgurim
Joined Sep 2004
244 Posts
Another Maiden

I flew mine today as well. What a great little plane! No problems. very little trim and it seemed to have planty of power. Loops, rolls, attempted spin (still a little nose heavy). It rolls well both left and right. Inverted flight was no problem as well. You just need quite a bit of down elevater and keep some power in it.Landing is very easy and you can get this plane really slow. I am using the TP 1320 3s pack, an AXI 221220, and a Castle 25 amp controller. I also have an 8-6 apc e-prop. I may be able to fine tune for performance but everything went fine.
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Old Nov 19, 2006, 11:13 PM
X-15 Jockey
burkefj's Avatar
Joined Oct 2006
2,443 Posts
RE: fokker DVII ready to fly....

So, I got mine put together. A few issues, one, the pull string for the aileron wires was not coming out of the large hole in the rib, so you had to try to feed the connector through a tiny opening, and was difficult. I also had to find some longer screws for the motor mount. I replaced the stock hinges with some similar types but a bit wider and longer just to make me feel better.

The aileron connection wires were a bit short and barely overlapped inside the shrink wrap and would buckle at the joint, so I had to fit a piece of brass tube over the shrink wrap to add stiffness to the whole thing, it worked out ok.

I've built mine stock with the 1320 TP pack mounted forward with the speed control underneath, and everything as far forward as possible. The 2 1/8" CG location required me to put 3 oz of weight in the nose section. Total all up weight is 26 oz. Spec was 25.7 so I guess that's ok, although most of you were saying it ballanced fine, and was a little nose heavy, but mine doesn't ballance that way.

I noticed that the horizontal stab as installed in the fuse looks like it is at a negative incidence compared with the lower wing(ie the front is higher than the rear), and with the struts installed as prescribed using the marked holes, etc, it looks like the upper wing has some negative incidence compared with the lower wing. there aren't any twists in the wing and it went together with the struts ok, so this seems to be how it was intended. I haven't built a non-aerobatic bipe before with these kinds of struts so I don't know if the main wing having negative incidence is normal, so that the lower wing stalls first or not, it just looks a bit funny. I wanted to get inputs before I fly it.

Only other complaint is that the front cowl is extremely fragile, I cracked it when installing it with the screws, and as I was flipping the prop by hand to check that there wasn't any drag on the prop adapter and cowl, I slipped and poked a big hole in the front vents, it is really fragile. I managed to fix it with some CA, and cut some pieces of screen from an old screen door and ca'd them over the front vents, it looks a bit better and re-inforces the plastic. The plane looks just great.

Frank
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