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Old Feb 14, 2007, 11:36 AM
MN WATTS Master
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United States, MN, Mankato
Joined Jul 2003
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I find if you land with some power on in grass it does fine. This is even think grass that is up to 3-4 inches tall.
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Old Feb 14, 2007, 02:30 PM
X-15 Jockey
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Joined Oct 2006
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nose over on landing

I see this nose over problem landing on pavement, I think the drag of the tail in the grass should help, the thing lands so slow it isn't a big deal anyway, the only issue would be grabbing the airfoil between the gear on really long grass. Might make takeoff a bit hard.
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Old Feb 14, 2007, 02:47 PM
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USA, TX, Trophy Club
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Guys the full scale ones nosed over - it is the axle/wing.

I have landed on grass long and short and pavement. It takes full up (high rate) on grass for me to keep it from ground looping. Pavement is no big deal, just 3pt it in....

That "wing" or axle on both the SE5a and DVII grabs that grass and tries to kick it over - simple as that.

Mike
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Old Feb 23, 2007, 03:16 PM
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Bensenville, Ill. United States
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Well ,
Been following this thread for some time so yesterday I went out and bought the Foker. Got it home did a quick check on all the parts and started detailling. Painted the engine on the batt hatch and started working on the pilot. As I was waiting for the pilot to dry I decided to go over the covering with the trim iron to seal all the edges and seams prior to shrinking as I wanted to use claybusters idea for dulling the finish. I pull out the top wing and find the right aileron tip is broken and the covering is cracked over the break, also the cowl is broken. Call the LHS where I purchased it from and he said to bring it in. I told him I had already painted the engine and started to work on the pilot figure. He then said I should call GP and see if they would send me new parts or a new plane. I said why don't you order another one and when it comes in we'll just switch the batt cover and pilot. He agreed but we'll see.

Jim...
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Last edited by Jim Mayer; Feb 24, 2007 at 10:44 AM.
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Old Feb 24, 2007, 10:44 AM
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Bensenville, Ill. United States
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Anybody out there have any info on how much and what part of this planes fuse was metal? Was it just the front around the engine or did it go back as far as the cockpit?

Jim..
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Old Feb 24, 2007, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Mayer
Anybody out there have any info on how much and what part of this planes fuse was metal? Was it just the front around the engine or did it go back as far as the cockpit?

Jim..
Jim,
This is something I've been trying to find out for a long time.
Mike
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Old Feb 24, 2007, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claybuster
Jim,
This is something I've been trying to find out for a long time.
Mike
Claybuster;

I found this email address experts @overthefront.com supposed to be aces reguarding WWI aircraft. I will let you know what respons if any I get.

Jim...
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Old Feb 24, 2007, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Mayer
Claybuster;

I found this email address experts @overthefront.com supposed to be aces reguarding WWI aircraft. I will let you know what respons if any I get.

Jim...
Thanks Jim, I'm looking forward to find out the answer.
Mike
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Old Feb 24, 2007, 09:24 PM
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Bensenville, Ill. United States
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Ok claybuster Got 2 responses. basically they said the same thing an aluminum cowl cut on a diagonal around the engine. My guess is that the batt hatch and the "cheecks" that come with the kit represent the aluminum around the engine.

Jim...
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 06:33 AM
Electricholics Anonymous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Mayer
Ok claybuster Got 2 responses. basically they said the same thing an aluminum cowl cut on a diagonal around the engine. My guess is that the batt hatch and the "cheecks" that come with the kit represent the aluminum around the engine.

Jim...
Thanks Jim!
Now I know what to make dull and what to make look a little shiney.I've also been wondering the same for the SE-5a. If you get a chance and want to give them a call about the SE-5a it would be appreciated.
Mike
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 05:16 PM
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Terryville,CT (USA)
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Hey guys I have a little problem and a question. I am putting my ElectriFly Fokker DVII together and I noticed the horizontal stab has a pretty good warp in it. If the stab was not covered in monokote it would be real easy to get the warp out. Is there anyway to get the warp out without taking all the covering off?

Thanks,
Tony
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 05:27 PM
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Toronto, Ontario
Joined May 2004
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Use your fingers to bend the warp out of stab. You should see rinkles appear. Heat these rinkles with your heatgun to shrink them out. The stab should be true now.
You have it backwards... The fact that it is covered makes it simple to get the warps out.
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 07:20 PM
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Be careful with the amount of heat you apply. That covering is very low temperature.
Gary
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 09:26 PM
Registered User
Terryville,CT (USA)
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Thanks for the help. I will try getting it straight and putting the heat gun to it tomorrow night.

Tony
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Old Feb 25, 2007, 11:08 PM
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Toronto, Ontario
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Good. Just be careful you don't apply too much heat in one area. My gun has a spring type trigger, so I just pulse it on and off and varying frequency's to keep it at a good temp. Perhaps holding each side flat on a table while you shrink will be easier. With warps in fuses and wings, you usually just tweak it with your fingers.
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